Joyetech Cuboid 150 watt

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IDJoel

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Hi all,
I just put my order in for the Cuboid and wanted to educate myself on the device before it arrived. I found this thread and have spent the last three days reading all 719 posts/36 pages. A theme that keeps coming up is battery efficiency/longevity. For those who may not be as OCD as me and may not have read through the entire thread or may just want a refresher; here is one of the more pertinent posts on the subject (to answer darkshaft's and 52anddone's most recent quiries):

KenD (and others on several other threads and forums) explain the math:

In a regulated device series and parallel are effectively equal. Using two 2500 mAh batteries, in a parallel setup you'll have 5000 mAh at a nominal 3.7v. In a series setup you'll have 2500 mAh at a nominal 7.4v, half the mAh but double the voltage. As current is traded for volts, and vice versa, to produce a certain wattage, the amp hour capacity is identical.

5000 (2 x 2500 mAh) x 3.7 / 1000 = 18.5
2500 x 7.4 (2 x 3.7v) / 1000 = 18.5

Edit: and in an unregulated device a series setup does not double the power that can safely be used. Quite the opposite. The voltage is doubled so the amp draw (and wattage) significantly increase with the same resistance coil. But that's on an unregulated setup.

What we seem to forget is this is only true in ideal, identical comparisons. As soon as we introduce ANY variables to this we are no longer comparing "apples to apples." Different wattages, RTAs/RDAs, coils, coil builds, batteries (mfg./age/lot), even connection qualities will influence the results.
Now, as another member has recently pointed out; most/all (?) of us are neither trained nor equipped to scientifically compare non-identical devises. Instead what we offer is (at best) anecdotal results.
What I have not seen questioned in this thread is:
Chip function/features that may effect efficiency - what "real time" monitoring is happening and how does this effect efficiency? Are these features I want/need in my device?
Battery age - Remember that ALL batteries have a finite life (number of charging cycles). The Samsung 25R states "Cycle info: Capacity drops to 60% after 250 full charge/discharge Cycles." The battery will still show a full charge at or near 4.2 volts after a fresh charge but you no longer have a battery able to provide anywhere near 2500mAh.
Do all my contact points have the same surface area?Are the all equally free of non-conductive material? 510 connection, coil grub nuts... ?
And the last that I hadn't even thought about until SirLoki mentioned it in an earlier post and that is build materials:

I have been looking all over the net for reasons why this mod has such crappie battery life. The same tank and coil on my segelei 150w at 60w gets 18-24 hrs while the cubiod gets 8-12 hrs. I used the timer on the cubiod for one run and it got 733 secs from full to weak battery. The only thing I could find to explain this is a Russian video where he takes the mod apart. In the video you can see they did the typical Chinese bs and wired the negative to the casing not directly to the 510. With an aluminum mod not a real big deal but in a much less conductive zinc alloy mod I feel this is where most of our battery life is draining to.

I had never thought about materials before and I was really hoping someone here that had an engineering background might have shared their understanding about the conductivity of zinc and/or alloys might effect efficiency (my ignorant thinking says that a poorer conductor is going to make a power supply work harder/drain faster to complete the circuit; but then I am just pulling that out of my pocket). Then there is the issue of wire size(s) used inside the MOD; we all know from making coils that a smaller wire generates more heat (and wastes power if it isn't your coil).

Then there's additional issues if I am conducting the comparison in temperature mode: am I in the same environment for the entire comparison? It's going to take more power to get up to temp if I am standing outside in 20 degree weather than if I am sitting in my 70 degree living room. How much? I don't have a clue.
Does one device retain heat more than another? How will that influence the results?

I guess the point I am trying to make is all these variables, by themselves, may not make a noticeable difference but when you start compounding them they very well may. Therefore take a huge helping of "your mileage may vary" and ask yourself if this is "right for me."

I apologize to everyone. I don't mean to go on and on about this, and I certainly don't want to hijack this thread (I came to this thread to learn about the Cuboid), so I'll shut up now.
 

Major911

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Before I got my cuboid I primarily used vaporflasks. Which are parallel dual 18650s I could get a solid two days of vaping on my flasks between charges. I get about 1 3/4 days out of my cuboid. Same tanks juice etc... Chain vaping around 30watts.


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52anddone

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Welcome to the club! [emoji12]

It's not as good as it could or should be but I can live with it.

Since this is my first dual battery regulated device, I don't know the difference anyways. Like I said before, I can get 1.5 times the battery life out of my Cuboid than I do with my VTC mini (all else being as equal as I could make it in my testing). Could the Cuboid have been built to operate more efficiently ? It Probably could have been. Am I satisfied with the performance versus the price ? Yes I am. Will I buy another ? At this point in time, I don't know.

Thank You @IDJoel for you're very insightful, and informative post, I enjoyed reading it very much.
 
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Hornsen

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Awesome mod, feel just right holding in my hand, much smaller than others dual battery mod.

295zgc8.jpg
 

52anddone

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Just watched the above video:

A video from Busardo from the building line of cuboid at Joyetech fabric http://www.tasteyourjuice.com/wordpress/archives/10246

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Thanks janne, I found it very informative and was surprised to hear them say that they did 36 checks as the Cuboid was being built. That means that we All should have the exact same battery life, and that means that some of us might be expecting too much as far as battery life goes with dual batteries (for whatever reason), or, a design flaw in the Cuboid if compared against other dual battery mod's under the same test conditions. So my test of the Cuboid vs my VTC mini might not mean anything at all, just a curiosity.
 
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Tpat591

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The amazing thing is that my cuboid survived all 36 test without anyone noticed my firebutton rattle... LOL

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You are assuming that would be a criteria for failure of the tests. Apparently it is not because we all got the same rattle.
 
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Major911

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Out of interest how difficult would it be to replace the 510 connector with a superior version?

I don't have mine yet but if it would be relatively simple (little soldering etc) then it might be worth a go.
It actually has a pretty good 510 on it but if your worried about it a better alternative would be add a heat sink. Much easier solution and adds adjustability especially if your using TC


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Tpat591

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Out of interest how difficult would it be to replace the 510 connector with a superior version?

I don't have mine yet but if it would be relatively simple (little soldering etc) then it might be worth a go.
Does the word nightmare have any special meaning for you?

 

garpt01

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I concur on the poor battery life, both in power mode (low-ish wattage around 30) and Temp. mode. I have used new Samsungs and new Sony VT4's, little or no difference. I Make it to around 6-7PM, about one 3.5ml. tank. My single battery DNA40 squonker is much better with a single 18650 at about the same power. Also, the good 'ol DNA40 works better and hits harder in temp. mode. I now use the Cuboid exclusively in power mode.
 
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