Joyetech Cuboid 150 watt
- Thread starter Btsmokincat
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Yeah, going to pull out the existing 510 and either fit it with a 10mm or 14mm varitube 510. I have not done anything like this before, but I had an extra cuboid that had the short errors a lot, so i figured why not
Appears the one on the cuboid is 12mm. i dont have anything to measure it so I cant be sure. But it falls inbetween the 10 and 14 I have onhand.
If I do accomplish it, I will post what I can during reassembly. Also provided I have the time. I may have to shelf it for a week since this weekend is real busy.
Unnecessary, yes. Useful? Absolutely!
I use a very old padded ego case for most of my coil & wicking tools. it now contains:
..spool of 26g kanthal
..spool of 316L SS
..small spool of 26/32 clapton
..coiler tool
..fingernail clipper
..scissors
..wire cutters
..ceramic tweezer
..hemostats
..metal tweezers
..8 micro screwdrivers
..3 Allen wrenches from different attys
..several toothpicks & needles
..baggie of rayon
It's jam packed, but has everything I need & then some. Often throw it in my brief case or glove compartment. Love it!
Absolutely understand with the holidays and all. I assume you are a bit of an electronics junkie? I didn't know there were tanks that fit other threading. I had no idea that anything worthwhile was on something other than 510! This seems pretty cool as I have another Cuboid in the box myself! If you can take as many pictures as possible and post them, along with the steps, on the instructable website. Just search it if you're interested. It would definitely help out alot of people.
Ok. heres where its at now
Nevermind the gouges on the top of the 510 now and some of the metal shavings in the pictures. Was trying to see if I could unscrew it. Wasnt comming out. I believe it is press fitted with some sort of conductive epoxy. This will have to wait until wednesday when I can take it with me to work and put it in my vice and use my tools to see if I can remove it without drilling it out (mostly to see what they did)
But I know I will have to drill it eventually to make the hole bigger to fit my new 510. So the negative is soldered to that little silver post (which is actually a gold plated post surface mounted) with about 1.5" of wire. 16 or 18ga stranded. The heatsink is actually milled with the top cap. So the whole top section is like a giant negative terminal.
The positive pin and spring fit into that black plastic cap and pushed through the clear silicone grommet
Picture the top cap is rolled towards you in this picture, thats how it sits on the board. Those steps under the heatsink fins correspond with those piddly thermal pads on the board.
My predictions for this, I will have to drill out the existing 510 to remove it. I will have to make the hole a little bigger to accommodate the new 510. I really cant use the negative terminal and nut that came with the new 510 unless I shave down the heatsink portions, and even then, the nut might hit the board that sits right there. So I may have to tap out and thread the new connector directly into the heatsink like the existing. And reuse the negative pin.
I will also replace the thermal pads with some fuller fit ones.
But it will have to wait till wednesday when Im at work
Nevermind the gouges on the top of the 510 now and some of the metal shavings in the pictures. Was trying to see if I could unscrew it. Wasnt comming out. I believe it is press fitted with some sort of conductive epoxy. This will have to wait until wednesday when I can take it with me to work and put it in my vice and use my tools to see if I can remove it without drilling it out (mostly to see what they did)
But I know I will have to drill it eventually to make the hole bigger to fit my new 510. So the negative is soldered to that little silver post (which is actually a gold plated post surface mounted) with about 1.5" of wire. 16 or 18ga stranded. The heatsink is actually milled with the top cap. So the whole top section is like a giant negative terminal.
The positive pin and spring fit into that black plastic cap and pushed through the clear silicone grommet
Picture the top cap is rolled towards you in this picture, thats how it sits on the board. Those steps under the heatsink fins correspond with those piddly thermal pads on the board.
My predictions for this, I will have to drill out the existing 510 to remove it. I will have to make the hole a little bigger to accommodate the new 510. I really cant use the negative terminal and nut that came with the new 510 unless I shave down the heatsink portions, and even then, the nut might hit the board that sits right there. So I may have to tap out and thread the new connector directly into the heatsink like the existing. And reuse the negative pin.
I will also replace the thermal pads with some fuller fit ones.
But it will have to wait till wednesday when Im at work
Not much of an electronics junkie. Last thing I modded was my playstation 2, installed some neon wire in the grooves and hooked it up to the powerboard.
But I am technically minded and like to tinker here and there.
And please dont misunderstand. I am still using a 510 threading. Its the standard pretty much. The 10mm and 14mm I mentioned only refer to the top plate of the 510.
VT 510-V1 Connector - Self-adjusting Center Pin
I have a problem with ohms reading on my cuboid. Respect my 3 DNA , my rx200, my evic vtc mini the cuboid reads 0,04 ohms higher. This is a problem with SS coil. It seems to me this is due to the 510 connection. If I try to unscrew the connector of an adjustable atty at first I get a better connection but the problem come back every time I unscrew this Atty. It seems the spring loaded contact is to low.
Any help?
Any help?
I think I have figured out why TC jumps into power mode after trying quite a few builds over the past couple days ranging from .22-.25(keep in mind this is with 316L SS wire). It seems like the higher you go in the resistance even if it is only .03 difference,you have to go lower on the power setting. I have a coil at .26 and kept my same power setting at 50 with 430 TC and it kept jumping back to power mode .So I started lowering the power setting and got it to 45 and it stays in TC mode.So maybe Joyeetech does have a glitch or two in Their board for this unit,or the power and TC is their back design of the DNA 200 board???
OK that makes more sense now. I wasn't quite sure what you were referencing at first. Good luck with your project! Let us know how it turns out.
What tank are you using? Is it the crown tank perhaps? As I understand it the SS coils have nickel legs IIRC. I'm not 100% on that but it is what I seem to remember. I've had issues with TC myself trying to use the Crown's SS coils. Even if you're not using the CT, other tanks and coils may experience a similar issue.
No,I am using two different RDA"s and the coils are not pre made from a vendor I made the coils and still tinkering with the TC to see why some are having problems with TC going to power mode on the cuboid.. Other than this change in the resistance my cuboids have been working fine in TC mode. I just want to find out if Joyeetech has a problem with these boards.
Very interesting.
But I can't reproduce it.
I just rewicked a 316L at .25Ω, I usually run it 460-480f @34w (with no issues). So I went down to 430 like u, bumped up to 50w. No issues. Bumped to 60w, no issues. Went to 480@60w, no issues.
Not saying there's not a glitch, just saying I can't reproduce your good findings on mine.
What's your tcr? May have something to do with it.
TCR is set to 88.
I am not having trouble with mine either I was just tinkering around to see why the people that are having problems and see what could be causing it.
I am not having trouble with mine either I was just tinkering around to see why the people that are having problems and see what could be causing it.
If I go back down to my .21 build going back to 50 on the power in TC mode is no problem and it stays in TC mode and does not change . Maybe I am going about this all wrong but like I said,even the smallest change in resistance higher or lower requires the same change in the power while in TC mode to keep it in TC mode???
Puzzling. We're the same rev, same tcr, same wire, same Ω, same watts, yours flips to power while mine doesn't.
Doesn't sound like a firmware thing. Only possible thing I can think of is your resistance is somehow changing.
But I have no clue how or why.
Doesn't sound like a firmware thing. Only possible thing I can think of is your resistance is somehow changing.
But I have no clue how or why.
Hmmm. TC works by monitoring the resistance of course. Yours apparantly go's out of range, flipping to power mode. Implys your coil has a different change of resistance with power applied than mine. Since we're both 316L, I assume the resistance ramp up spec is the same. But what gauge are u running? I'm at 26.
I am running 26 gauge too. It stays in TC mode fine as long like I said with the testing I was doing. If the coil is low the power in TC mode needs to be higher ,and if your coil is higher the power in TC mode needs to be lower to stay in TC mode. Other than that this testing for the past three days now is driving me crazy trying to figure out why others àre having this problem.
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