I was very close to getting the Starre but I went with the Zephyrus instead mostly because it has a good rba deck and it is alot smaller with the same capacity. Hopefully UD comes out with ni200 or ti coils soon.
Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt
- Thread starter jstrong
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
As I thought, 85% battery. The internals are clean and appear to be assembled with solid craftmanship...
It looks better and better all the time. Order one yet, Jeremy?
That's kind of funky. One thing with my isticks and mvp, they're all off by .1 or .2 on detecting my coil resistance, so I guess I'm used to it anyway lol. I ordered some nickel coils today for my subtanks.
Here's a weird question, just out of curiosity. If I'm using regular occ coils, obviously the temp control feature is basically nonexistent right? So if I use my ni200 occs, does the mod automatically use temp control, or is it possible to use nickel coils without using that feature at all?
Nope.. I keep debating..
My istick 50w now has a broken screen and I pif'd my zmax v3. So need to choose one. Though the 50w still works fine, kinda sucks with no screen. And no backup.
The evic VT looks like a "super upgraded" istick. We know some of the problems the istick 50 had and I hope the vt doesn't suffer a similar fate.
Though joyetech always has good quality we can only hope the istick was a testing ground for them and they have put out a real winner with the vt.
The ohms problem is a little istickish. Though it may just be the vt's springloaded 510 acting up until it breaks in, we saw that with some 50w's. You can try working the pin a few times.
Last edited:
No. It works like the Yihi chips where you have to manually switch the mod into temp control mode. With the evic VT, you click the fire button three times and then the temp on the display starts flashing. Pushing the top switch to the right will toggle between the Ni, Ti, and regular mode. Only the DNA40 mods automatically detect nickel coils and enables the temp control automatically. In variable wattage mode, the minimum resistance is 0.15 ohms, so technically if the nickel coil was 0.15 ohms or higher, it would fire in variable wattage mode. I've never tried firing a nickel coil in variable wattage, so I don't know what would happen.
So it appears that the bug was with the coil and not the mod. I had switched out the tank onto my rDNA40 and the coil resistance jumped up to 0.21 ohms. A few minutes later, it dropped to 0.14 ohms. I swapped out the coil and the new coil is staying steady at 0.14 ohms.
Thanks for the troubleshooting and clarification! It is nice for folks to dive a little deeper in their builds and see what is really going on vice going off half-cocked.
The craftsmanship is much higher quality, same as the materials. Plus it does comes with the silicon case, which detracts from the new car finish but helps prevents damage from mishaps. Even if you only run it in wattage mode, it's still a cost effective upgrade from the iStick 50W, and you won't have to worry about getting used to the feel of a strange new mod.
The one slight negative I might point out at this stage is that the 510 connection is slightly raised, so the atomizer won't sit completely flush with the top. Barely noticeable, but it's there. Personally, if this hadn't come out, I would have bought another iStick 50W, since it was meant as a back-up to my existing 50W. Now my 50W is the back-up for my Evic VT
I never had any problems with my Istick 50 - obviously heard about the autofire/meltdown issues though.
As far as the ohm reading changes are concerned, doesn't the VT have a 'lock resistance' feature?
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Speaking of the kanger OCC ni200 coils, I just put one into my eVic to test TC, and it read the resistance (room temp) at 0.12 before I locked it. That seems significantly lower than the 0.15 it is supposed to be at. Should I be worried?
Update: ok, just unscrewed the tank and then screwed it back and resistance is reading at 0.16 ohm. Now since it was locked at 0.12, why is it showing 0.16 ohm?
Update: ok, just unscrewed the tank and then screwed it back and resistance is reading at 0.16 ohm. Now since it was locked at 0.12, why is it showing 0.16 ohm?
Maybe because you unscrewed it?
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
It does, however, when I had that funky coil on it and the resistance locked, it still changed. First it went from 0.15 ohms to 0.13 ohms (which wasn't that bad). Another time is went from 0.15 ohms to 0.12 ohms (which was bad because it barely put any power to the coil).
welcome to the world of Kanger OCC heads...Its no the mod, its the coil Im afraid...did you try another one..??
Mine has been reading 0.13 ohms the whole time. I havent seen 0.15 once.
I did. This one stays constant at 0.14 ohms. Out of a box of 5 coils, two ended up being duds. What's funny is the very first coil that I used in out of that box, the coil lasted me for more than 5 weeks (over 10 refills).
Here's the odd thing about these coils......on two different coils, the very first time I screwed them onto my rDNA40, they both read as 0.21 ohms (fresh new coils, never been fired, just primed with juice). I then unscrewed them and screwed them back in and one registered as 0.15 ohms, the other registered as 0.14 ohms. When I screwed them onto the evic-VT, they all registered as 0.14 ohms. One of these, I'm using now, the other one was a dud (the one where the ohms kept jumping all over the place).
The first three coils out of the same box all registered at 0.15 ohms right out of the box. But out of those three coils, one ended up being a dud since after half a tank, it felt like the coil was clogged up...no flavor, vapor was almost nonexistent, got a couple of dry hits.
- Status
