Juice max temperature/Twisted wire: Question

[EIHYPI]

Good morning to all. I have been experimenting with fused claptons and alien wire. The aliens come out too low in ohms causing my batteries in my regulated mod to become hot so I stopped with those. I like the fused claptons because they ohm out at .3 but the downside is that there is a significant ramp up time but otherwise they're great with flavor.

So my first question is if there I such a possible thing that juice can have a boiling point that causes the juice itself to get burnt (not cotton burning or bad coil) giving you a burnt taste in the rda for example on say 100W? I was noticing something like this when using the fused claptons and aliens but it's possible it was from too tight wicking but I think I did it alright.

Next I was thinking about making twisted wire. In the past I twisted 2 24G Kanthal wires together with a drill properly. But can I twist a 22G and 26G kanthal wire together too even though they are not the same gauge? My first thought that if I go higher in wattage say 75W that the 26G cannot handle the temperature. Then I thought maybe it can handle it because the twisted wire is looked at as one wire now. Thank you and have an awesome day.

 

[VictorViper]

If you haven't already, take a look at Steam Engine, specifically the Wire Wizard. The whole suite will be useful, but the wire wizard can help you understand all the essential values of whatever coil you'd like to use.

The downside: it's on you to calculate for dual coils.

I use a fused clapton (single coil) on a single battery mech at around 0.31ohms and it hits FAST and hard. No reason you can't make this work with the right settings on your mod.

As for the juice, they vary. Start low and move up, the correct wattage is the one that works for you.

 

[Mr. Relentless]

What mod and rda or rta you using

 

[EIHYPI]

What mod and rda or rta you using

I'm using the Vaporesso Revenger 220 mod and I use the goon 1.5 for the fused claptons made by Maui. I went up to 100W and tasted burnt but it could be that I didn't need to go up to that wattage. But I wasn't sure if it can be the liquid exceeding certain temperatures to the point that the liquid itself gets burnt with certain juices although I don't know if there is such a concept.

With making twisted wire I'm not sure if I can use 2 different gauge wires of the same material to twist (26G and 22G kanthal).

 

[Mr. Relentless]

100 watts shouldn't be hurting your juice. Too tight cotton or a hot spot on your coils.

 

[IMFire3605]

Technically, being a dual coil twisted we are talking about a 4 parallel circuit coil setup (1 circuit each wire) or a quad coil. Twisting or parallel (side x side wires) from a safety stand point of having each individual circuit just about equal in resistance is suggested, but with twisted 22/26 as you are suggesting you can squeak by just as long as both twisted coils are close to identical in resistance. As far as wattage on the 26awg, if coupled with 22awg, majority of that power will go into the 22awg, the 26awg will ramp up faster (ramp up will be staggered between the 2 gauges, but the faster warming up 26 will thermally conduct heat to the 22awg to help ramp those wires up faster so about 60 to 75% of the power needed to heat up all the wires will be used to heat up the 22awg quicker) so the 26awg will be fine over 75watts in this scenario. You might also look into a single core Clapton set up, say 24awg wrapped with 34 to 40awg outer wire, IMO once you step past a single core Clapton you lose battery efficiency and as you have noticed, battery internal heat due to stress needed to ramp up larger more massive coils.

So if looking to up your battery efficiency and drop your battery stress

Single Core Claptons
Twisted 26awg (this is really flavorful, battery efficient, and works with about the same wattage as 22 to 24awg wire but gives the surface area of a Single Core Clapton if not more, talking juice to wire surface area)
Parallel Coils (side by side wires, like twisted wire really don't want to go above 26awg in this setup)

Dual Coil = Balance between cloud and flavor, highly battery efficient
Triple Coil = Best Flavor Setup, little less battery efficient due to the extra coil
Quad Coil = Best Clouding Setup, lower battery efficiency
Any more coils or wire mass (example sextuple coils or octuple coils or more) = battery efficiency, you have none, very little extra gain for clouds or flavor

Regards to the juice to wattage boiling point, yes there is a limit you can push here. To high a wattage (temperature at the actual coil at around 550F or so) you start to have the formation of nasty stuff, acrolein gas (from PG and VG getting to hot), formaldihyde (scorching wicking), carbon (scorching sweeteners and flavorings), even possibly diacetyl or AP (from certain flavorings like many custard flavors and such, even if the flavorings say they are diacetyl/AP free, add heat to the mix and get a buttery flavor your getting DA/AP).

 

[EIHYPI]

Technically, being a dual coil twisted we are talking about a 4 parallel circuit coil setup (1 circuit each wire) or a quad coil. Twisting or parallel (side x side wires) from a safety stand point of having each individual circuit just about equal in resistance is suggested, but with twisted 22/26 as you are suggesting you can squeak by just as long as both twisted coils are close to identical in resistance. As far as wattage on the 26awg, if coupled with 22awg, majority of that power will go into the 22awg, the 26awg will ramp up faster (ramp up will be staggered between the 2 gauges, but the faster warming up 26 will thermally conduct heat to the 22awg to help ramp those wires up faster so about 60 to 75% of the power needed to heat up all the wires will be used to heat up the 22awg quicker) so the 26awg will be fine over 75watts in this scenario. You might also look into a single core Clapton set up, say 24awg wrapped with 34 to 40awg outer wire, IMO once you step past a single core Clapton you lose battery efficiency and as you have noticed, battery internal heat due to stress needed to ramp up larger more massive coils.

So if looking to up your battery efficiency and drop your battery stress

Single Core Claptons
Twisted 26awg (this is really flavorful, battery efficient, and works with about the same wattage as 22 to 24awg wire but gives the surface area of a Single Core Clapton if not more, talking juice to wire surface area)
Parallel Coils (side by side wires, like twisted wire really don't want to go above 26awg in this setup)

Dual Coil = Balance between cloud and flavor, highly battery efficient
Triple Coil = Best Flavor Setup, little less battery efficient due to the extra coil
Quad Coil = Best Clouding Setup, lower battery efficiency
Any more coils or wire mass (example sextuple coils or octuple coils or more) = battery efficiency, you have none, very little extra gain for clouds or flavor

Regards to the juice to wattage boiling point, yes there is a limit you can push here. To high a wattage (temperature at the actual coil at around 550F or so) you start to have the formation of nasty stuff, acrolein gas (from PG and VG getting to hot), formaldihyde (scorching wicking), carbon (scorching sweeteners and flavorings), even possibly diacetyl or AP (from certain flavorings like many custard flavors and such, even if the flavorings say they are diacetyl/AP free, add heat to the mix and get a buttery flavor your getting DA/AP).

Thanks I do have one more question. Does pulsing a coil too long when dry burning affect the quality of the coil, its sensitivity to heat in the future and ramp up time?

 

[VictorViper]

Thanks I do have one more question. Does pulsing a coil too long when dry burning affect the quality of the coil, its sensitivity to heat in the future and ramp up time?

General rule is to pulse your coil as gently as possible. No coil I've ever installed has needed more than a dull red glow to confirm I've worked out all the hot spots. I use Kanthal, SS316L and Ni80 wire, and I treat them all the same.

For cleaning, I quench (douse in cold water). It means I don't need to overheat my coils to get rid of the gunk. Obviously this takes a safe approach (I use a tiny cup about the size of an RDA).

As for the temp specifics for dry burning... anyone with hard numbers?