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I've just received my LM2596 boards from China. I ordered 10 but it looks like they're old style, i.e. they don't have the holes for the switch. Any way to use a lower amp switch with these old style boards?
It is a PITA but you can. Lift the 5 pin off the board, 330k R between pin 1 and pin 5.. Your low amp switch would then go between the lifted pin 5 and ground.
It is a PITA but you can. Lift the 5 pin off the board, 330k R between pin 1 and pin 5.. Your low amp switch would then go between the lifted pin 5 and ground.
Thanks. I had seen that earlier in the thread (read it all) but hoping there may be a simpler way now.
I have already bought some tasty 2 amp switches that I was hoping to use
On the LM2596, I have been using this newer model that has the holes for the trigger switch. You can use any switch and not restricted to high amps.
New LM2596HV LM2596S DC DC Step Down CC CV Adjustable Power Supply Module | eBay
Just wire the switch to the off/on holes.
Does it need to be a normally closed switch?
Normally open switch.... These board do not turn on unless you jump the on/off holes,,,
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The board size is wrong... The actual width or length of it is about 46mm... I thought it would be much smaller than it was... Threw off my plans but I made it work... I will get the calipers out later and measure the exact for you...
I've been playing around with one of these and successfully using it with batteries. Tonight i've hooked up a dell laptop jack to the board but it's not working. Using a multimeter I can see the 20v going in to the board ok, but the built in voltmeter isn't displaying anything. I can get a read using the neg output but nothing from the pos output. All the wiring is good, it's still working with the battery input. ANy suggestions, please?
Double check the polarity of dell laptop jack into the module. I had the negative and positive swapped once, and experience the same result you found. At least with my module, having these swapped did not damage the board.
Done. Working
Many thanks, and yes, I do feel stupid, but until 2 weeks ago I'd never soldered anything and didn't know how to use a multimeter, so I'm learning!After a lot of reading and impatiently waiting for cheap parts to arrive from China, I recently embarked on modding journey.
I have zero experience of soldering, making holes in things, using epoxy putty, etc so it was all a steep learning curve.
I decided to start off with a large tin, a sort of concept box, with an LM2596 board, 2 x 18650 / dell laptop input and this is what I ended up with.
You can select whether you’re powering from the laptop or batteries with the slide switch on the battery holder. This is also the kill switch.
Standard cheap board, so you can switch to see the input voltage (19.4 in the picture above).
Chunky vandal resistant switch on the back. I also put some rubber feet on the bottom to protect the switch a little.
Little hole on the front for the pot adjust. Can be done easily with your nail.
Was an old battered tin already, so already marked, some epoxy on the inside of the tin I should really tidy and the atty isn’t quite straight but all in all it’s not too bad!
I have a couple of others on the go, including a LM2596 bull brand camera tin (all wired apart from the on off on switch for the voltmeter, which I’m still waiting for) and an unregulated ‘stealth’ cut down battery box, including integrated usb charging.
Already using it regularly, but need to finish the top cap before I can say it’s done.
Loving my new hobby so far and have a few more tins ready to go already once these two are done!
I have zero experience of soldering, making holes in things, using epoxy putty, etc so it was all a steep learning curve.
I decided to start off with a large tin, a sort of concept box, with an LM2596 board, 2 x 18650 / dell laptop input and this is what I ended up with.
You can select whether you’re powering from the laptop or batteries with the slide switch on the battery holder. This is also the kill switch.
Standard cheap board, so you can switch to see the input voltage (19.4 in the picture above).
Chunky vandal resistant switch on the back. I also put some rubber feet on the bottom to protect the switch a little.
Little hole on the front for the pot adjust. Can be done easily with your nail.
Was an old battered tin already, so already marked, some epoxy on the inside of the tin I should really tidy and the atty isn’t quite straight but all in all it’s not too bad!
I have a couple of others on the go, including a LM2596 bull brand camera tin (all wired apart from the on off on switch for the voltmeter, which I’m still waiting for) and an unregulated ‘stealth’ cut down battery box, including integrated usb charging.
Already using it regularly, but need to finish the top cap before I can say it’s done.
Loving my new hobby so far and have a few more tins ready to go already once these two are done!
Nice one. Looks like there's enough room in there to handle a couple 18650s instead of 14500s (thoughts for your next mod).
In my most recent tin, I've had trouble with the putty epoxy not bonding well to the inside. I think that maybe the inside of the tin needs to be scratched up a bit before applying the epoxy. Did you do this?
Any added diode to prevent accidentally keeping the switch on for the battery and DC connector connected? 19V is a bit much to start "accidentally" charging your 14500s.
In my most recent tin, I've had trouble with the putty epoxy not bonding well to the inside. I think that maybe the inside of the tin needs to be scratched up a bit before applying the epoxy. Did you do this?
Any added diode to prevent accidentally keeping the switch on for the battery and DC connector connected? 19V is a bit much to start "accidentally" charging your 14500s.
Thanks!
They're 18650's in there already. It's a good size tin!
The putty was ok. Just rammed it in there and it seemed to hold fine.
The switch means the battery and DC are never live at the same time. I don't think there's much chance of an accident. Fingers crossed, anyway!
I got home from work and my on-off-on switches were here, so I thought I may as well finish off my original camera tin mod
Includes kill switch, volt meter in and out voltage switcher and a cool button position.
My fav DIY so far
Shame I scratched the tin so much in the process. I wrapped my second tin in decorators tape to protect the outside during building. Much better!
Includes kill switch, volt meter in and out voltage switcher and a cool button position.
My fav DIY so far
Shame I scratched the tin so much in the process. I wrapped my second tin in decorators tape to protect the outside during building. Much better!
(post should have been before previous)
Wife and baby went away for a couple of days yesterday lunchtime, so I thought Id test one of the new potentiometers I got this week.
Then I thought Id try out using hot glue for the first time.
I ended up with this..
Im going to cut the pot shaft down and do a bit more gluing but a pretty quick turnaround for me!
I've also been advised hot glue is no good for the atty connector. I may need to epoxy it..
Wife and baby went away for a couple of days yesterday lunchtime, so I thought Id test one of the new potentiometers I got this week.
Then I thought Id try out using hot glue for the first time.
I ended up with this..
Im going to cut the pot shaft down and do a bit more gluing but a pretty quick turnaround for me!
I've also been advised hot glue is no good for the atty connector. I may need to epoxy it..
how would you plug an LED voltage display into both the input and output side of the step down so you can switch back and forth? i know they make them with it all built in but they are more expensive, unless you guys know where to find lot of 10 pieces or something...
how would you plug an LED voltage display into both the input and output side of the step down so you can switch back and forth? i know they make them with it all built in but they are more expensive, unless you guys know where to find lot of 10 pieces or something...
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