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Kataphraktos

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Guys can I ask a stupid question? What does it matter if you get voltage drop while you get a great vape? Personally I don't loose much sleep over the numbers knowing I get a fantastic vape from my JGG/Ithaka/Penelope.

In all the years I've been vaping I don't think I once checked what voltage drop I get under load. I just check if my coils give me the best vape possible.
If you regularly clean your GG products (I use my ultrasound cleaner) the voltage drop is so negligible and not even worth checking IMHO

For the same reason some guys like to build a PC using nitrogen cooling for the CPU: because they can!

I couldn't care less, as long as my vape rocks.
 

MoDmAnDaN

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For the same reason some guys like to build a PC using nitrogen cooling for the CPU: because they can!

I couldn't care less, as long as my vape rocks.

Never done liquid nitrogen, but the Cpu, chipset and video cards are all water cooled. And not just cause I can, but because I overclock everything possible.

Wonder if I can overclock a mod.... Hmmm.

Sent from my Note II using Tapatalk.
 

BoratNJ

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Well the numbers do not matter when u have a good Vape. But once the good Vape lasts few minutes compared to other mods you start measuring and calculating. When u buy a 2000 mah battery you want them all to yourself.

It is also very important for small 18350 bats

Very much agree on 18350 - they lose their mojo very quickly with 1ohm coil which is well within their amp limit. You basically start with 3.2-3.3v (ie roughly ten watt) when fully charged and go down from there, fast.
 

ManniGfaltig

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Its too late, I have to go to bed but its an old story. The voltage drop of GG products... Sigh... :evil:

In another thread you find the resistance of various metals and stainless "steal" is like 5 times worse than silver. Voltage drop is a good "argument" to sell devices. Someone mentiones something like "Amazing low voltage drop" and people rush to buy that thing...
Why I am ranting? I bought one of these faboular devices and found out that my GG performed better... That made me think a bit.

I saw this too often in the last months.

For now I can only say that I can vape 0.5Ohms coils in a GGTS that I don't clean since months without hot buttons or any issue. I do this on purpose in order to make a "before" and "after" test. But since then I enjoy my dripper builds :)

What is usually left out when someone mentions VD is:
a) the used resistance
b) more important - and almost always forgotten - the voltage drop of the coil purely over the battery. Most people dont have NR wires so they cannot really do this but we can. Show me the voltage drop of your battery first, then we can talk about voltage drop.

These measures that people find out and spread over the world need to be reproducable and it has to be documented how the measures were taken, else they are worthless!

Contact plating - how can an additional layer of material improve voltage drop?

As long as contacts are clean you will enjoy your vape and have a decent VD. I wondered a bit lately when I watched a video about Pinoy style vaping where they said that contact treatment is very important - ohh it does not only happen with GGs... I wondered a bit...

What happens quite often and is usually the problem with bad contacts is, especially with high currents, you get a spark that leaves a black spot. This black spot, it might be very small but it needs to be removed.

We do have some more additional resistances because of many screwable parts but it is taken care that these are well made - polished to provide the best contacts possible. Does it make a difference? Mathematically it does, but in daily use - no it doesn't, not for me at least.

But yes - I do clean my GGs when I feel that there is a problem. Usually it is sufficent to remember the position where the switch touches the axis, screw it out and see - there is the annoying black spot. Remove it, vape and BLISS!

Off to bed now :vapor:
 
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imeothanasis

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xtreme, those springs are silver plated but you will not see any difference in your vaping because as we said already the plating doesnt offer anything on conductivity

As for voltage drop, we can make a GG with 1 tube and 2 caps to avoid voltage drop but then you will have in your hands something with no features at all. Also, you only vape for 10 more minutes with devices that are 1 tube and 2 caps. Nothing special here.

And something else: I was the one that invented the 1 tube and 2 caps. :laugh:
 

Ariel_MX

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Very much agree on 18350 - they lose their mojo very quickly with 1ohm coil which is well within their amp limit. You basically start with 3.2-3.3v (ie roughly ten watt) when fully charged and go down from there, fast.


Hi Bora,

Check this posts:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/227707-gg-pictures-298.html#post10964749

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/227707-gg-pictures-298.html#post10965693

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/227707-gg-pictures-298.html#post10969447

try the following, it could reduce the VD on your brass Just GG (I bet it will):

Install the brass button head on the button if it is not already installed (I only own SS Just GGs, they include a brass botton head and a stainless steel one).

Just-gg-golden-greek_truevaping.ru_45.jpg
Just-gg-golden-greek_truevaping.ru_09.jpg


Remove the axis small stainless steel cap:

Just-gg-golden-greek_truevaping.ru_38.jpg


and try your Just GG in "Telescope Mode" (depending on the battery you are using, you will need to remove one or two of the Just GG extension tubes):

Just-gg-golden-greek_truevaping.ru_20.jpg
Just-gg-golden-greek_truevaping.ru_23.jpg
Just-gg-golden-greek_truevaping.ru_21.jpg


Just GG is designed to allow a lot of different configurations / possibilities, in some configurations you can have different looks (as configuring it in solid mode -no telescope showing- ) or add safety features (as using the spring loaded negative contact), sometimes with a small cost in performance.

By removing the stainless steel little cap of the axis post and configuring it in telescopic mode, you will bypass the spring in the axis post and ensure a good and solid connection -when tightening the telescope- (and removing contact points).

The brass button head conducts the electricity better than the stainless steel one.

Also you may want to play with the button throw, so the inner spring will compress more before making contact when firing the button.
 

Itshak

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Oh I never thought of this one. Nice one Ariel. a short throw will not make the spring compress as a long throw!

dicover this one,in the first day I recived my JGG's.

the one from US came with un comfi high button while the one from greek
came with lower more comfi button.
so after a day I change the one that came from US to lower them,
and I put them lower then the those came from Greek
it was then that I notice change in the hit power.

but never post any on that cos' I thought it's quite known a factor.

it's not such big a thing for me,one wrap less on the coil give
more drive power,then closing all the spring and working in not comfi position.

so I put the button were I want it though not too low,as it drop more.

even if some parts of the spring coils make contacts it drive better,
if all other conatcts point are clean.

if other conact points are not clean it would not matter and
you will not feel the change it make.
 
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imeothanasis

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It was just an experiment xtreme that doesnt really bother you or serve you and thats why I didnt announce it on forum
If silver plated springs offer no performance boost in conductivity then what are new benefits or why switch from previous brass springs?
 
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Itshak

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I think if button head is touching the housing, no current goes through the spring am i right on this one?

I don't see the reason for that,
I think current will run on both spring and brass threaded sleeve
if there is contcts on both if I'm correct.
 
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xtreme101

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What are these new type of springs on the left. Seems these have now replaced the brass ones on the right in both button and battery. Are these stainless steel... silver?

yje7y3a6.jpg
xtreme, those springs are silver plated but you will not see any difference in your vaping because as we said already the plating doesnt offer anything on conductivity.
If silver plated springs offer no performance boost in conductivity then what are new benefits or why switch from previous brass springs?
It was just an experiment xtreme that doesnt really bother you or serve you and thats why I didnt announce it on forum
Just seemed odd since you always said silver plating is no benefit and brass offers best conductivity. So it was a big surprise to open my new JGG and find silver plated springs.

asy2y3an.jpg
 

xtreme101

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Also, springs dont have any good conductivity either, only raw metals. So even if spring its clean metal or plated, it has the same performance. You see a difference in performance only when you use a raw bar against a plated one. Plated is never good
You say plated is never good. But still put an experimental silver plated part in a brand new GG device :facepalm:
 

Kataphraktos

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xtreme101 What is the difference that in the spring worth? Silver or copper? Just GG you use and do you like it? Then what is all this?

He wasn't being critical, he was just asking, and asking the person who designs these babies. That is what this all is.

Why are such questions countered with hostility? Let's stop being so defensive, we're all just trying to learn here.
 

soulseek

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I still think that such a change should have been documented.

We make a big fuss about the diversity, expandability and quality of GG products as well as the importance of cleaning and maintenance. However, I know that if I were to open up my JGG to clean it and find a completely different spring in there than expected, I would be more than curious.
 
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