Just need to get a rant out.

Status
Not open for further replies.

roxynoodle

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Jun 19, 2014
15,344
37,212
Ohio
How much does building a dna 40 mod typically cost?

The chip retails for $60 but since you're verified, go do some looking in the buying/selling area ;). I'm not allowed to say what's over there, but that's a hint.

The c&k switches are about $1.30 each. I got antivandal switches for the fire buttons for $6 each because I hate those little pointy buttons. But got the little ones for the up and down buttons. FDV510 $4-6.

I have wire, flux and solder.

So you could have a DNA40 with a nicer fire button and best 510 for $80 using the body and battery sled from yours. And that's if you pay retail for the chip.
 

Sunburst

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 20, 2014
222
181
Williamsport, PA
Saying a b&m shouldnt sell a mech or sub ohm coil to an adult is like saying a dealership shouldnt sell a motorcycle to someone

One of my local shops sells e-juice, batteries, egos, regulated mods and tanks only because of liability concerns like this. I want to be upset about it, but I get where he's coming from. Heck, they don't even do the subtank or atlantis. I was really bummed that I couldn't buy a spool of wire.
 

jamtwo

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 17, 2014
141
74
In the D, MI
I do appreciate the help and everything here, I hope that's not misunderstood.

I knew I should have rebuilt the coil from the get, but I thought it was fine because that's the way it came. This RDA was still shrink wrapped, so however it was built, that's how the manufacturer built it. The coil was the strangest I've seen personally. It was probably 24-26g wire, somewhere around 6 wraps, and the strange part, it was a dual coil build, on one wire. By this I mean, one end clamped in one negative post, passed through the positive post, the other end clamped into the other negative post. Never scene a build quite like it, and I've watched eye tiring amounts of build videos on YouTube.
 

dravell

Super Member
Jul 29, 2014
572
839
United States
The chip retails for $60 but since you're verified, go do some looking in the buying/selling area ;). I'm not allowed to say what's over there, but that's a hint.

The c&k switches are about $1.30 each. I got antivandal switches for the fire buttons for $6 each because I hate those little pointy buttons. But got the little ones for the up and down buttons. FDV510 $4-6.

I have wire, flux and solder.

So you could have a DNA40 with a nicer fire button and best 510 for $80 using the body and battery sled from yours. And that's if you pay retail for the chip.

Youre awesome Roxy :toast:
Jamtwo you should take her up on her offer if you're financially able to, thatll essentially give you a $260 Hana DNA40 with a much better 510.
 

beckdg

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 1, 2013
11,018
35,705
TN
Mechanical mods make GREAT backups. Nothing in them to fry, it's a tube, if it gets dirty, clean it. I think I'll forever keep my Stingray around just in case someone steals my Reo and I need something that's good and reliable to replace it with. Some stores in your area may have some mech clones that can get you by as well - could be worth a peek.

can't help but notice you're not worried about your reo failing. me either. :toast:
 

Ablonz

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 17, 2014
1,616
2,514
Frozen Tundra, WI Cheesehead
Truly sorry to hear about your issues with it..... I wish all b&m were like the one I have here by me. all about safety and making sure your are set up correctly. When I got my first mech mod, they sat down and made my first coils for me, showing what to do and how to test and making sure I know the ohms that my battery could work with and such. Hard to find good help now a days. Hope you get back up and running soon. I would even try to get a small setup from the gas station just to get you thru until your mod gets back imo.
 

minimalsaint

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 4, 2012
1,897
4,048
Michigan
If I'm able to, I would like to take Roxy up on the offer at some point, I like the box mod, and that's for sure, but at the moment my bank account and I are both still grieving.

Roxy..... Amazing. That is killer.
All I really have to offer you while you're working on your backups is a tube mech. Doesn't get much use aside from chasing clouds once in awhile but I can do without if you need something. I assume you have batteries (telescoping mech) and something to put on top?
I work in the wixom area....
 

roxynoodle

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Jun 19, 2014
15,344
37,212
Ohio
If I'm able to, I would like to take Roxy up on the offer at some point, I like the box mod, and that's for sure, but at the moment my bank account and I are both still grieving.

When you can, PM me.

And same if you want help with building and Ohm's Law. Weather will be turning on us now, but its not like the roads are bad everyday. Find yourself a new RDA and a mod. In the meantime obviously you first need something to vape to get you by. Then you can work on getting another atty and mod and pieces parts for the dead one.

And I'll be getting a nice drill press for mod building and my old one can make bird toys :laugh:
 

caramel

Vaping Master
Dec 23, 2014
3,492
10,735
Aren't electronic MODs supposed to protect you from exactly such situations???? My understanding is that they are continuously measuring several parameters such as internal box temperature, battery voltage, current / coil resistance and as soon as something is out of specs/range, it will interrupt the circuit. You shouldn't have to measure the coil before firing - the MOD is supposed to do exactly that and warn you if it's out of range. If a MOD doesn't do that then a mech loaded with a protected battery is a better proposition.
 

roxynoodle

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Jun 19, 2014
15,344
37,212
Ohio
Aren't electronic MODs supposed to protect you from exactly such situations???? My understanding is that they are continuously measuring several parameters such as internal box temperature, battery voltage, current / coil resistance and as soon as something is out of specs/range, it will interrupt the circuit. You shouldn't have to measure the coil before firing - the MOD is supposed to do exactly that and warn you if it's out of range. If a MOD doesn't do that then a mech loaded with a protected battery is a better proposition.

Yes, but we are talking clone mods :( I guess to an extent mine did when the fire button stuck. At least my hands and face are intact. There were no explosions. But, it didn't shut off after 10 seconds like it should have. It would stop 1 second and start again. But, in the end I was not injured. My house was not damaged. And the battery was fine!
 

Woofer

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Oct 8, 2014
3,894
15,371
PA, SK, CA
I was under the assumption the Vapor Shark was a protected device which should not fire a faulty atty or one with a coil with too low a resistance? Maybe not...
OP said...
<snip> so I put it on my Cloupor DNA 30 box, press the fire button just to see where the ohms are reading...and wow .3 ohms, sub ohm with a pre setup, pretty cool! The only problem, the coils stayed lit, and after a second, the wick was melting.<snip>

Aren't electronic MODs supposed to protect you from exactly such situations???? My understanding is that they are continuously measuring several parameters such as internal box temperature, battery voltage, current / coil resistance and as soon as something is out of specs/range, it will interrupt the circuit. You shouldn't have to measure the coil before firing - the MOD is supposed to do exactly that and warn you if it's out of range. If a MOD doesn't do that then a mech loaded with a protected battery is a better proposition.

I am 100% confidant of Evolv DNA boards. Cloned DNAs not even a little. ymmv.
 

beckdg

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 1, 2013
11,018
35,705
TN
Aren't electronic MODs supposed to protect you from exactly such situations???? My understanding is that they are continuously measuring several parameters such as internal box temperature, battery voltage, current / coil resistance and as soon as something is out of specs/range, it will interrupt the circuit. You shouldn't have to measure the coil before firing - the MOD is supposed to do exactly that and warn you if it's out of range. If a MOD doesn't do that then a mech loaded with a protected battery is a better proposition.

protection is put on batteries that are not safe chemistry. mechs should use high drain imr or hybrid imr only.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread