K-go is a no go

[FRANKSTER]

Hello people...I am having major problems with this k-go...I purchased a set 2 months ago from hoosier and at first, one battery died after a month, it came back to life and a month later it died again. I have one left from that kit.

I go out and purchase another k-go battery from northwest vapor and it dies in 2 weeks...they are supposed to send me a replacement. I try to keep my cartos dry after topping off and I think I do a good job at that. I cannot have batteries die on me after a month when I hear everyone state they last 6 months to a year.

I would like to know if other people are having this problem with the k-go. Also, the fact that I really like them when they work, but if they are not reliable, there is no need to buy them again. Is there something out there that has the same 1100 mah and works just as well? Also, does another similar type battery go with the usb and wall outlet that I received with the k-go?

It is a good thing I have my sb as a backup so I do not go back to analogs. Any ideas will be appreciated.

 

[Dr. Russell Fell]

I own a kgo, but I've only had it for roughly a month. No problems so far...

You could always go the mod route.

 

[x-smok3]

Sorry you are having problems. I have had a Kgo kit for 4 months and still going strong. Hope you find what you are looking for.

 

[FRANKSTER]

I own a kgo, but I've only had it for roughly a month. No problems so far...

You could always go the mod route.

Thanks, I do have a mod as a back up...I have the sb, but I like the k-go...do not understand that they die like this?

 

[PsychOfMSE]

What kind of cartos/atties are you using on these batteries?

 

[Jslay00]

I've been rotating 4 kgo batteries, from Hoosier, for over 6 months, now. No problems at all.

 

[FRANKSTER]

What kind of cartos/atties are you using on these batteries?

I use only cartos...boge 510 dc 1.25 and resurrectors at 1.75 ohms. I do vape a tremendous amount of the time, but still no excuse to die that fast. I always make sure the battery end of the carto is dry.

 

[markfm]

Probably running into issues due to the 1.25 ohm DC. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-i-use-1-25-ohm-dual-coil-cartomizer-kgo.html. A pure mechanical PV, with decent switch and batteries, would likely have no difficulty. 1.25 ohms is kind of stressy on the batteries/electronics.

You may be due for a bump up to HV/VV, use higher ohm cartos and let the voltage provide you with power.

 

[FRANKSTER]

Probably running into issues due to the 1.25 ohm DC. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-i-use-1-25-ohm-dual-coil-cartomizer-kgo.html. A pure mechanical PV, with decent switch and batteries, would likely have no difficulty. 1.25 ohms is kind of stressy on the batteries/electronics.

You may be due for a bump up to HV/VV, use higher ohm cartos and let the voltage provide you with power.

Thanks...if the 1.25 ohms is too low...what type e-cig would they be used for?

 

[markfm]

A straight mechanical mod, most likely. A simple box mod, as long as it has a 3.5A rated switch (3.5 only because fresh off the charger you'll get up to 4.2V on a 3.7V battery; 3.5A gives a bit of margin). Probably use with an AW IMR battery, high amp rating.

1.25 ohms is pretty low. Net you're looking at 3.3 x 3.3 / 1.25 = 8.7W if your KGo is ego-ish 3.3V, or 3.7 x 3.7 / 1.25 = 11W if it is an 808-ish 3.7V unit. For that kind of power I tend to think quickly high /variable voltage, I vape 8 - 10W all the time, and the mods I use are built to go up to 15W (1.5 ohm DC at up to 4.7V, though many people will go to a nice single coil carto and be able to go to higher voltages for longer run time).

 

[FRANKSTER]

A straight mechanical mod, most likely. A simple box mod, as long as it has a 3.5A rated switch (3.5 only because fresh off the charger you'll get up to 4.2V on a 3.7V battery; 3.5A gives a bit of margin). Probably use with an AW IMR battery, high amp rating.

1.25 ohms is pretty low. Net you're looking at 3.3 x 3.3 / 1.25 = 8.7W if your KGo is ego-ish 3.3V, or 3.7 x 3.7 / 1.25 = 11W if it is an 808-ish 3.7V unit. For that kind of power I tend to think quickly high /variable voltage, I vape 8 - 10W all the time, and the mods I use are built to go up to 15W (1.5 ohm DC at up to 4.7V, though many people will go to a nice single coil carto and be able to go to higher voltages for longer run time).

I think the k-go is between 3.7 and 4 so I guess you are saying that the dc 1.25 is too low for that type battery...I guess from now on, I will use a boge 510 2 ohms with this type.

 

[markfm]

2 ohm sounds better.

 

[tricci]

Hello! Yes, I agree that the 1.25 ohm DCC is killing your batts. They will work great on your SB, especially if you are using an AW High Drain 18650 (my set up). Your KGO will work just fine with Boge 2 ohm cartos and should also work just fine with 1.7 ohm single coil Resurrectors.

I find that 1.5 ohm and above DCCs are much better suited for higher voltage vaping (1.5 ohm with the 4.8 volt battery and 2 ohm and above with 2 LifePo4 16340s).

 

[FRANKSTER]

Hello! Yes, I agree that the 1.25 ohm DCC is killing your batts. They will work great on your SB, especially if you are using an AW High Drain 18650 (my set up). Your KGO will work just fine with Boge 2 ohm cartos and should also work just fine with 1.7 ohm single coil Resurrectors.

I find that 1.5 ohm and above DCCs are much better suited for higher voltage vaping (1.5 ohm with the 4.8 volt battery and 2 ohm and above with 2 LifePo4 16340s).

Thanks...that could be it...I will not use the 1.25 ohms on the kgo any longer...I will just use the boge 510 2ohms. Thanks.

 

[stephpd]

The 1.7's seem to work fine for most folks too. But any lower and it's just to much amperage for these type batteries.

Not that the 1.7's are very good over the long term use of these batteries. It's just that they haven't been killing batteries outright, like the 1.25's you're using.

 

[FRANKSTER]

The 1.7's seem to work fine for most folks too. But any lower and it's just to much amperage for these type batteries.

Not that the 1.7's are very good over the long term use of these batteries. It's just that they haven't been killing batteries outright, like the 1.25's you're using.

Thanks, I think I ask this before, not sure...if the dc1.25 are too low for the 3.7 v...what are they used for, and by the way I purchased the dc"s 1.25 from the same vendor where I purchased the k-go...?

 

[markfm]

A straight mechanical mod, a little standalone thing that you stuff a battery into, no electronics, just a switch that's rated, ideally, at least 3.5 amps. Use it with an AW IMR (high drain) battery. Fresh off the charger, about 4.2V, you have 14W, should be lots of vapor, warmth. During the majority of its use, at about 3.7V, you are still up near 11W power.

The reason I mentioned you might be due to just go for an HV/VV is that if you do like working with things at that power, HV/VV is a good way to go. I posted about the mods I use earlier on this thread.

That a vendor will sell something that doesn't necessarily play well with all their PVs is no surprise. Many, though not all, vendors will also include, somewhere, notes, saying either don't go below X ohms with a given unit, or to only use a certain atomizer/carto with certain PVs. There is some "buyer beware", requiring consumers to ask questions. Your case, 1.25 ohm DCC killing k-go, frankly I probably wouldn't ask/expect the vendor to replace the k-go -- user error using too low a resistance for the unit. (A learning experience, I've had a few )

Unfortunately, just because a connector matches doesn't mean it'll work. It's analogous to trying to charge a standard 510 battery on an ego charger -- the battery will go bye-bye, can't handle the charger current.

 

[FRANKSTER]

A straight mechanical mod, a little standalone thing that you stuff a battery into, no electronics, just a switch that's rated, ideally, at least 3.5 amps. Use it with an AW IMR (high drain) battery. Fresh off the charger, about 4.2V, you have 14W, should be lots of vapor, warmth. During the majority of its use, at about 3.7V, you are still up near 11W power.

The reason I mentioned you might be due to just go for an HV/VV is that if you do like working with things at that power, HV/VV is a good way to go. I posted about the mods I use earlier on this thread.

I remember, it was you who gave me that info the first time...thank you

 

[markfm]

You're welcome. There is a real learning curve to vaping, we all go through it, figuring out what works for us.

 

[FRANKSTER]

You're welcome. There is a real learning curve to vaping, we all go through it, figuring out what works for us.

I am so aware of that learning curve...let me see if I get you here...it sounded like you are saying that the 1.25 is good on say a sb at 3.7v...that just does not seem right? What am I missing here?