I just got 2. I was on the waiting list for Hoosier vapes and couldn't wait so I ordered a whole kit from ecigsbuy.com. they only show a blue one, so in the comments section I asked for a gold one. I got no reply whatsoever from them. I kinda took a chance since it's from China and I didn't really find too much info on them online, but for $46 + $8 shipping I took the leap. then, while still waiting, Hoosier vapes emails me saying it's in stock. since I wasn't sure what color I was getting from ecigs I ordered a gold mod only for $35 from Hoosier. I was thinking for sure I'd get a blue one from the chinese company. on Monday 4/29 I get 2 packages in. a gold one from Hoosier and a gold one from ecigsbuy. so if you were wondering if ecigsbuy.com is LEGIT.. ...YES they are, and they do read the comments section when you purchase. I ordered 4/16 and got it 4/29, so even though no response and probably no customer service whatsoever, it came quicker than any other chinese company i've bought from. certainly faster than health cabin. btw, I have tried both batteries it came with and they both work fine. I do use a vapesafe from epipemods for extra protection since it is a mechanical mod.
Kamry K100
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Can you please explain why I want to lower the resistance even more by sanding the posts? I just bought the K100 along with Kanger Evod 1.8 ohm cartomizers. I use primarily Johnson Creek 100% VG juice. They seem to taste better running at a lower voltage (no burnt taste at around 4.2 volts or 6 to 6.5 watts on my Sigelei Telescoping Zmax V3). Will this have any effect if I decide to sand? Is there a benefit to lower the resistance even more if I will be using 1.8 ohm cartomizers already? Does it drain the battery significantly, what are the benefits of doing this? I am trying to understand the whole mechanical mod procedure, but I am getting confused on this resistance of the body thing.
P.S. How did you get an ohms symbol to show up on your post?
I tried everything in the advanced settings.
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Can you please explain why I want to lower the resistance even more by sanding the posts? I just bought the K100 along with Kanger Evod 1.8 ohm cartomizers. I use primarily Johnson Creek 100% VG juice. They seem to taste better running at a lower voltage (no burnt taste at around 4.2 volts or 6 to 6.5 watts on my Sigelei Telescoping Zmax V3). Will this have any effect if I decide to sand? Is there a benefit to lower the resistance even more if I will be using 1.8 ohm cartomizers already? Does it drain the battery significantly, what are the benefits of doing this? I am trying to understand the whole mechanical mod procedure, but I am getting confused on this resistance of the body thing.
P.S. How did you get an ohms symbol to show up on your post?
By sanding the posts you reduce the resistance of the mod itself. The less the resistance the mod has across your battery = the more power to your coil. More power to your coil = more wattage (power). More wattage = more vapor, throat hit, and sometimes flavor (but that is dependent on the juice you use). I have my RBA's coiled with a 1.2 - 1.4 ohm, have sanded down my contacts, and run a high VG ratio juice (50/50 or more VG). Works great, and hits like a brick shi* house
I use MNKE batts, and I get only about a half volt drop. No sanding required.
It's all in the amps.
It's all in the amps.
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Can you please explain why I want to lower the resistance even more by sanding the posts? I just bought the K100 along with Kanger Evod 1.8 ohm cartomizers. I use primarily Johnson Creek 100% VG juice. They seem to taste better running at a lower voltage (no burnt taste at around 4.2 volts or 6 to 6.5 watts on my Sigelei Telescoping Zmax V3). Will this have any effect if I decide to sand? Is there a benefit to lower the resistance even more if I will be using 1.8 ohm cartomizers already? Does it drain the battery significantly, what are the benefits of doing this? I am trying to understand the whole mechanical mod procedure, but I am getting confused on this resistance of the body thing.
P.S. How did you get an ohms symbol to show up on your post?
Many newer vapers are getting confused as to why the big deal with mechanicals... because there's a big wave of super low resistance vaping going on with RBA's ... btw this is *NOT for newbies due to safety reasons.
Mech's will give you only the volt/watts that the battery puts out... 4.2v at fresh, and drops from there. Mechs have no safety shut down electronic factor when resistance gets below a certain point, thats why they are in demand.
"good" mechs have good contact material that doesn't add more resistance between the batt and the coil... cheaper mechs need to have the contacts sanded down (to get to the more conductive metal).
If you are using a mech for conventional resistances (1.5 and above) do the math to see what kind of watts you will get from the mech:
battery voltage minus the "drop" caused by the resistance between your batt and the coil.
super low resistance RBA's are firing at super high watts... and thats what we're looking for because the vape is superb....
I would not mind trying one of these for the main factor that it is mechanical and no electronical components to mess up. Not to mention I like the bottom fire button. So with that said i am trying to learn more about them. I typically use SR cartos or 2.5 coils, so in the long run wondering if I need to avoid the mech mods for now as I would not be getting it for running LR stuff at the moment and running the resistance I run from what I am reading it does not seem it will really benefit me with vapor and hit. Seems most folks get it for running low resistance. Hmmmm, off to do some more research.
if you arent interested in running lr on this you could pop in a kick for your added wattage. Thats on of the great things about telescopes
Lowering the resistance of the PV itself makes it more efficient. (Some of) Your voltage is being dropped across the PV every time you hit the fire button and is being lost/wasted. The lower your mod Ω the more of your voltage is applied to the coil, resulting in volts available, Amps used and watts generated at the coil. Efficiency, all power is consumed in creating vapor, not heating your mod body.Can you please explain why I want to lower the resistance even more by sanding the posts? Does it drain the battery significantly, what are the benefits of doing this? I am trying to understand the whole mechanical mod procedure, but I am getting confused on this resistance of the body thing.
P.S. How did you get an ohms symbol to show up on your post?
To get the Ω symbol. This is an old DOS trick from the 80s. Hold down the alt key. press 3 numbers in succession and then release the alt button. http://east82.com/howto/ip_addressing/docs/ASCII Table.pdf has a chart.
Examples:
Ω = 234 - omega
¢ = 155 - cents
º = 167 - degrees
½ = 171 - 1/2
¼ - 172 - 1/4
ECT
So with a 18650 battery without any modification such as sanding contacts @ what wattage will this fire? Also the difference with the smaller battery as i like the stealth look when using the small battery as well? I usually use about 8 watts on my VV/VW device and about 4.50 volts on my BB.if you arent interested in running lr on this you could pop in a kick for your added wattage. Thats on of the great things about telescopes
So with the fire button being a bit stiff from what i have read, do you guys find it pretty easy to press?
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The button is a bit stiff, you know it's not gonna fire when you sit it down, but it's not so stiff that it's uncomfortable, or a problem.
I have a blue and a gold, no problems pressing the button with my little fingers! lol!
a kick is VW and allows you to set your wattage, pop it in between the battery and top cap. I dont know if a kick will fit in this device for sure, or it it will fit with a 18650+kick
the button is nice. I shortened the throw by adding a washer between the fire pin and the bottom cap
$50, free shipping, free efest battery! K100 Telescope MOD for 18350, 18500, or 18650
Good deal or not? Should I bite it?
Good deal or not? Should I bite it?
no sir... here it is for $35 http://www................../Empire-Style-K100-Telescope_p_176.html
they dont stock efests but you can find at least 2 almost anywhere for the price difference.
Hoosier's is out of stock, but thanks for the post! I could buy a few 18350's for the price difference.
I just got mine in the mail earlier today and my initial impressions are positive. This has replaced my Vea as my 'out of the house' vaping unit as far as not having to worry about breaking it, losing it, etc. for the price point. Great 'in hand' feel, seems fairly rugged (hefty), and hits well with an EVOD (1.8 ohm head) or even just 2.0 cartos. The button action is fine and doesn't squeak like VapinGreek's did, and I used Noalox on the threads to quiet them down a bit. Obviously this isn't a high end PV, but it's great for what I expect out of it for an 'away from home' vaper. Pocket-able and stealthy in 18490 mode. No wobbling and sits straight when the battery is in. I plan on sanding the contacts as eHuman has suggested in the future. If I encounter any problems, I will post them, but so far I am pleased with the purchase. The only negative, as with all non VV/VW vapers (I guess), is that some juices don't perform as well as others since you can't adjust the voltage/resistances. I might 'kick' it in the future, but then I will lose it's stealth factor.
Tip: I was worried about the drip tip not being a snug as I would like it too be (i.e. coming off and losing it), so I removed the o-ring and wrapped the tip with a couple of wraps of dental floss and then replaced the o-ring. It's nice and snug now. I saw that tip on a video from evelwmn in regards to another product UPDATE: Octopus RDA - o-ring fix - YouTube. It worked just fine and is much more snug now.
Tip: I was worried about the drip tip not being a snug as I would like it too be (i.e. coming off and losing it), so I removed the o-ring and wrapped the tip with a couple of wraps of dental floss and then replaced the o-ring. It's nice and snug now. I saw that tip on a video from evelwmn in regards to another product UPDATE: Octopus RDA - o-ring fix - YouTube. It worked just fine and is much more snug now.
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Not sure if anyone did a voltage drop test on this mod yet but i did.
Only a .2-.4 voltage drop for a $30 mod is a great deal..
Only a .2-.4 voltage drop for a $30 mod is a great deal..
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