Kanger Subox flashing Ohm reader, doesn't fire, still reads ohms. Atty works on my ego-one battery!!

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Tyyy123

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Feb 14, 2016
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so I'm also having this issue. volts read, ohms read 1.5 with the coil I'm using and watts of course also show up as if it's working fine. I go to fire and NOTHING. i have adjusted the pin, tried 3 different coils, RBA and original 1.5 ohm coil that came with my Ksubox mini. nothing will fire. I've read this whole forum and tried it all. all wires have not came undone from the solder. Is my box fried/toast or am I over looking this? someone with some good helpful input would be MUCH appreciated!!
 

twistedwire

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Feb 14, 2016
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William Cutlip

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Mar 21, 2016
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I just got my sub box mini and immediately began using it with the factory installed .5ohm atomizer, and it works fine. I decided to go with the rebuildable coil and I get the flashing 9.9 ohm flashing and no burn. I switch to a coil from my previous unit and it doesn't work either, but when I went back to the original .5 ohm coil it started working again. The problem seems to be with the rebuildable coils.
 

William Cutlip

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Mar 21, 2016
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I forgot to add that after confirming that the sub box mini works I put my old tank back on and now it doesn't work either. I worked fine when I first used it, so I thought it must be in the new atomizer, but now old one isn't working, so I have to stay with the factory coils until a solution is found.
I decided to try to figure out why the rebuild coil will not work. I t seemed that it must be the lack of a spring for the contact plate in the box so I took a pin knife and slowly raised the plate up as much as possible the put the tank with the rebuild coil on and it began working again. I figured it must have been the lack of contact with the base plate. After several hours of it working, it suddenly stopped. There was no reason for there to be a contact problem so I took the tank off and checked the coil. I had wrapped the coil with 5 wraps which should give me about 1.5-ohm reading. I wiped everything cleaned and put it back together. It worked again. I now believe the problem is with the rebuild coil itself. Interestingly enough, when it stops working the ohm reading is 5.5 ohm. Normally it's 1.5 to 1.7 ohm. What happens that causes the ohms to jump up to 5.6 and the unit stops working. Why, after taking out the coil section, cleaning it, and reinstalling it does it begin working again? I'm close to figuring this out. Anybody out there have some ideas?
 

DanM

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Apr 15, 2016
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I decided to try to figure out why the rebuild coil will not work. I t seemed that it must be the lack of a spring for the contact plate in the box so I took a pin knife and slowly raised the plate up as much as possible the put the tank with the rebuild coil on and it began working again. I figured it must have been the lack of contact with the base plate. After several hours of it working, it suddenly stopped. There was no reason for there to be a contact problem so I took the tank off and checked the coil. I had wrapped the coil with 5 wraps which should give me about 1.5-ohm reading. I wiped everything cleaned and put it back together. It worked again. I now believe the problem is with the rebuild coil itself. Interestingly enough, when it stops working the ohm reading is 5.5 ohm. Normally it's 1.5 to 1.7 ohm. What happens that causes the ohms to jump up to 5.6 and the unit stops working. Why, after taking out the coil section, cleaning it, and reinstalling it does it begin working again? I'm close to figuring this out. Anybody out there have some ideas?

I'm kind of new at building rba. I have a mech mod and drips and also use aspires for quick flavor change.
I am waiting arrival of my subox and after reading this I wish I didn't buy it.

just a thought, I've had that center pin issue before many times on ego threads. prying that pin up always worked.
I'm thinking if it reads your ohms correct and voltage then there has to be a connection to the tank? now if it's always 9.9 like some it's probably not making connection at the 510 pin.
now maybe it's a safety feature that's very temperamental since people are blowing up batteries etc.
maybe if the coils aren't near perfect etc it won't fire. and a less than perfect one fires for a while then quits because the ohms drop from heating the tiny price of kanthal? anyone try thick kanthal with maybe 2 wraps doing 1.0 Ohm? or 1.5 even?

am I not getting it?
heck I just do 5 wraps on 28awg for my drip mech mod, and I've had it over a year.
I have had 2 vv vm electronic ones that didn't see past a couple months and it seemed the electronics part fried or just quit working.
I like the idea of a rebuildable coil in a tank idea. for price reason, which is the whole reason I got this mod.
he'll if mine fails I'll use the tank my old mech. then I'll have rba, 3 drips, and 4 Pyrex aspires.. I like to swap flavors a lot...

anyways that suck to read this is happening. if mine fails I'll post any solution I find.
maybe once you build a bad coil it f***s up the chip in the box?
cheap ..... I've seen these ones going for $15.00 from shenzen...
 

Lifesvr7

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Jul 1, 2016
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When mine won't fire, has a flashing battery but is reading the ohms, it is the temperamental safety feature acting up. I could be vaping just fine with it one minute at a certain wattage, and the next minute, it won't fire (at the same wattage). This safety feature keeps it from firing at an unsafe wattage for what ever coil you have in it. I am not sure why it doesn't have a problem with the wattage one minute and then all of a sudden does, but I find that if I turn the wattage down, it will start firing consistently again. I find it happens more the more tightly the coils are packed, so maybe that's why it happens more with RBA's?
 
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