Kanger subtank TSCs

[dr g]

It sounds like we're almost on the same page here, but we're both speculating why these coils are doing what they are doing. I wouldn't use these coils because I suspect the length of the legs are what's causing the issue. (why they work better in one tank versus the other is beyond me) If it's the length of the legs, then wouldn't turning up the temperature OR turning on Atty Lock do pretty much the same thing?

Not exactly, turning up temperature would turn up the temperature setting in response to a recalibration, atty lock would arbitrarily lock the temperature reading curve. IMO they work better in the nano because the airflow matches them better. The set temperatures are similar between the two types, which is consistent with the long legs.

Before refinement kicks in it sounds like these coils make decent vapor. Admittedly, I don't know (understand) what all happens during the refinement process, but the bottom line is (in this instance) the board cuts the power back significantly. If the user turns on Atty Lock it will continue to throw the same amount of power to the coil. Results: happy vaper, temp unknown.
On the other hand, If we let refinement do it's thing then the user would have to turn up the temperature to get decent vapor. Results: happy vaper, temp unknown

No, in the second example, temp known. That's the point of refinement.

 

[BNEAT]

Not exactly, turning up temperature would turn up the temperature setting in response to a recalibration, atty lock would arbitrarily lock the temperature reading curve. IMO they work better in the nano because the airflow matches them better. The temperatures are similar between the two types, which is consistent with the long legs.

No, in the second example, temp known. That's the point of refinement.

We'll just have to disagree on this. I'm not going to turn the temperature up to 500+ on a juice that I'm sure taste great at 440 in a dozen other atomizers unless I'm sure of the reason for it. I know 500+ is not the actual temperature of the juice in the coil, but the hot leg that's causing the misreading is in contact with the wick at some point.

 

[BNEAT]

No, in the second example, temp known. That's the point of refinement.

To be clear though, I still say it's "temp unknown" because it's really not a temperature I can use. To go back to our cookie analogy, I want an oven I can set the temperature in and know what the results are going to be. If my coil/tank doesn't do that then I'm not going to use it.

 

[Woofer]

I guess the importance placed on dry cotton scorch/burn temperature may cause confusion and the perception that the temp setting must be no higher than the dry burn temp. I guess knowing the scorch/burn temperature of cotton when dry is good information but not really a factor in me getting the best flavor/vapor from a build. I never have a dry coil in my tanks and I adjust temperature for best vape and not just to the scorch/burn temp of dry cotton. Depending on build, atty, and etc. I can get a great vape at 420F or at 480F depending on many factors.

This right here!

 

[BNEAT]

This right here!

Yeah, I get it. But what else do we have to go by? I'm not saying I didn't tweak my temp by 10-20 degrees over the scorch temp before I arrived at my ADVs sweet spot. But I feel pretty comfortable with saying that this juice works at this temperature, and if I build/buy something that doesn't vape close to that temperature, then I consider it a failure. Again, I don't want to have to guess at the temperature to set my oven in order to bake good cookies.

 

[a tez]

Alright I have my Nano now and I am having the exact same experience as the Mini. I need to be at at least 480F for any flavor and good vapor production. Refinement down to .13ohms. I have tried multiple coils as well. I will most likely not be buying these coils again until they make the leads smaller and figure out a way to make a more solid connection. For now I will just stick with the Mini RTA because it works great.

I also just got the RTA for the Delta 2 and it works beautifully with ni200. .14ohm at 430F with huge amounts of vapor and flavor.

 

[squag]

Alright I have my Nano now and I am having the exact same experience as the Mini. I need to be at at least 480F for any flavor and good vapor production. Refinement down to .13ohms. I have tried multiple coils as well. I will most likely not be buying these coils again until they make the leads smaller and figure out a way to make a more solid connection. For now I will just stick with the Mini RTA because it works great.

I also just got the RTA for the Delta 2 and it works beautifully with ni200. .14ohm at 430F with huge amounts of vapor and flavor.

I've gone and bought myself a few spare subtank mini rta sections. Hopefully it will be the best of both worlds. My preferred build that I can plug n play when I'm on the go. Funny thing is I spent the same amount of money I would have to buy another 5-pack of OCC nickel coils.

 

[a tez]

I've gone and bought myself a few spare subtank mini rta sections. Hopefully it will be the best of both worlds. My preferred build that I can plug n play when I'm on the go. Funny thing is I spent the same amount of money I would have to buy another 5-pack of OCC nickel coils.

Yea the Mini RTA is the way to go IMO. Luckily Vapor Shark is sending me a pack of coils for free because 3 of mine were messed up. Testing continues.

 

[dr g]

We'll just have to disagree on this. I'm not going to turn the temperature up to 500+ on a juice that I'm sure taste great at 440 in a dozen other atomizers unless I'm sure of the reason for it. I know 500+ is not the actual temperature of the juice in the coil, but the hot leg that's causing the misreading is in contact with the wick at some point.

And at that point liquid cools it off. It's really all in your head, for real.

To be clear though, I still say it's "temp unknown" because it's really not a temperature I can use. To go back to our cookie analogy, I want an oven I can set the temperature in and know what the results are going to be. If my coil/tank doesn't do that then I'm not going to use it.

That's the nature of it, the temperature means what it means. you can't change that. hoping it falls in a certain range is pointless and forcing it to be in that range just to satisfy your need to see a certain number is ludicrous.

or to put it another way, you learned what temperature it worked at with your other coils. just learn what temperature it works at with a different coil. that's all you can do. any coil can possibly run at a different displayed temp than another for a variety of reasons. it's normal. that's why we have discussion forums where people share their experiences.

Alright I have my Nano now and I am having the exact same experience as the Mini. I need to be at at least 480F for any flavor and good vapor production. Refinement down to .13ohms.

I'm sorry, what's wrong with that? Sounds like it's working fine.

 

[BNEAT]

All in my head? Ludicrous? wow

I'm sure you'll see that Busardo and all the rest of us ludicrous vapers will win out in the end. Just like the battery meter update: nobody but you will stand for something that doesn't operate properly

 

[a tez]

I'm sorry, what's wrong with that? Sounds like it's working fine.

That's not fine. In order for me to get my preferred vape, I need to be at 540F+. That means the leads can be close to, if not more than 600F. At 600F+ ni200 starts to break down. That is not good for the coil and possibly a health concern. If this was ni201, I wouldn't care as the temp threshold is higher, but this is ni200.

As I mentioned in a previous post, the DNA 40 is reading the average temperature of the device, and considering the leads on these coils are very long, it is not smart to crank up the temperature past a certain point.

 

[fredrikstad]

I have noticed I have had to vary the temp between 450 and 480 to keep from hitting temp control at 22-25W

I`m using it at 350F and 20 watt, no problem. Taste good and make good clouds

 

[mario23]

20w at 450 running great. I did notice some coolness a couple of times but found that changing the temp and even changing it back fixed it. Something is wonky there I admit but it's an easy fix and the quality I get with this tank is great overall.

Sent from my SM-T520 using Tapatalk

 

[fredrikstad]

On the 3 that are flooding, it was not wicked properly. The cotton was not flush causing the coils to have extra juice leak in through the gap.

I plan on buying the Subtank Plus when it comes out, and maybe I will pick up a Nano as well to see what happens. I have two Subtank Minis already and only the RBA works perfectly in both of them.

Strange. I have no issues what so ever With the mini With nickel Stock coils. Have not tried the rba section yet. But have With the 25mm sub tank, no issues there eighter.

 

[xdarktime]

i've been using these coils for the last month or so. they work pretty great, only thing is that refinement can sometimes affect the vape. when i first install the coil, it usually reads around 0.22, which is obviously to high, then it goes down to 0.15 which is a near perfect vape. eventually, however, it can sometimes go all the way to 0.12 which means I have to turn my temp limit up, hence being inaccurate at that point

 

[a tez]

I`m using it at 350F and 20 watt, no problem. Taste good and make good clouds

350F? That's incredibly low. What is your ohm reading at after refinement? I'm at .15ohm 450F at 30watts right now on a Nano. Even on the coils I have made I can't stay below 400F to get my preferred vape. All within the .1-.2ohm range.

With the OCC coils I have in right now at 20watts I wont hit 350F (with largest airflow) but the flavor is light and the vapor production is minimal.

That's great though if you are able to keep it that low successfully. Are you vaping a higher PG liquid?

 

[a tez]

i've been using these coils for the last month or so. they work pretty great, only thing is that refinement can sometimes affect the vape. when i first install the coil, it usually reads around 0.22, which is obviously to high, then it goes down to 0.15 which is a near perfect vape. eventually, however, it can sometimes go all the way to 0.12 which means I have to turn my temp limit up, hence being inaccurate at that point

What device are you using? A drop from .22-.12ohms is very big. The most it should be dropping is .03-04ohms after refinement. This is something I also learned from Brandon at Evolv. It sounds like you don't have a solid connection going on or something may be wrong with the coil itself.

On both my Vapor Flask and Hana V4m, the most I ever drop on either is .03ohms if it is a premade OCC or one of my own builds. Usually my owns builds only drop .01ohms after refinement.

 

[dr g]

That's not fine. In order for me to get my preferred vape, I need to be at 540F+. That means the leads can be close to, if not more than 600F. At 600F+ ni200 starts to break down. That is not good for the coil and possibly a health concern. If this was ni201, I wouldn't care as the temp threshold is higher, but this is ni200.

As I mentioned in a previous post, the DNA 40 is reading the average temperature of the device, and considering the leads on these coils are very long, it is not smart to crank up the temperature past a certain point.

EDIT: What? Nickel doesn't even melt until over 2600 degrees F. The coil wouldn't even work if the legs got to half that temperature (would melt the insulator).

Pure nickel was selected by Evolv BECAUSE of its temperature stability.

 

[a tez]

The leads would only get that hot where there is no juice, where there is juice it's far below the average shown. In the end juice is being vaporized at about the same temperature across setups for your "preferred vape." That's why it's your preferred vape and not an unpleasant hit.

Remember that these temperatures are still lower than what happens with kanthal. People are just overthinking because now they have an additional piece of information.

The juice is staying up in the cotton in the coil though. The juice isn't flooding the entire OCC head and cooling the leads all the way at the bottom. When those stay hot, it messes with the temp reading where it actually matters. I received this info directly from Evolv.

Yea these temperatures are definitely lower than kanthal, but ni200 also has a much lower temperature threshold so it's a completely different ballgame. Like I said in the previous post, vaping at 540F is the average. That's not what the juice is vaping at. That's what the leads + the coil equals. This doesn't happen with the RTA section or RBAs for me, because the leads are extremely small so the temperature is very accurate. Also, the connections are much tighter which helps a lot.

Luckily right now the OCC I have in my Nano working well. It went from .17-.15ohm after refinement and I'm good at 450F. I guess the Nano does work better after all.

 

[dr g]

The juice is staying up in the cotton in the coil though. The juice isn't flooding the entire OCC head and cooling the leads all the way at the bottom. When those stay hot, it messes with the temp reading where it actually matters. I received this info directly from Evolv.

Yea these temperatures are definitely lower than kanthal, but ni200 also has a much lower temperature threshold so it's a completely different ballgame. Like I said in the previous post, vaping at 540F is the average. That's not what the juice is vaping at. That's what the leads + the coil equals. This doesn't happen with the RTA section or RBAs for me, because the leads are extremely small so the temperature is very accurate.

Luckily right now the OCC I have in my Nano working well. It went from .17-.15ohm after refinement and I'm good at 450F. I guess the Nano does work better after all.

See my revision, I thought you were talking about juice which is somewhat reasonable, though still wrong. But you were talking about nickel metal, which is totally unreasonable. Sorry, you are out to lunch on this. There is no "threshold temperature" for nickel metal at anywhere near 600 degrees.

There is nothing wrong with how your coils are working, you actually have good working units. Please stop spreading bad information about them.