I said break down not melt. There is a reason Evolv chose 600F to be the max. I don't even think the new SX Mini is going up to 600F I think it's in the 500s.
Kanger subtank TSCs
- Thread starter TheotherSteveS
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I said break down not melt. There is a reason Evolv chose 600F to be the max. I don't even think the new SX Mini is going up to 600F I think it's in the 500s.
Listen, you need to stop defending something that shouldn't be defended. I heard this info straight from Evolv. Have issues with it? Take it up with them. The leads on the coils are too long causing the temperature to be wrong as well. This is FACT. There is no amount of arguing you can do that is going to change this. Especially when this does not happen with the RTA section or RBAs.
Stop telling everyone they are wrong when you clearly do not understand what is being said.
There is a reason why it is known not to use Nickel in a device that doesn't have temperature sensing.
Last edited:
Just for the record Evolv's choice of 600F was just an arbitrary figure with no specific reason....as was stated in a video by Brandon... enjoying the discussion but just wanted to clarify this one thing...
Ok that's good to know. If read in multiple other discussions about nickel though that anything above 600F is unnecessary and bad for the coil (starts breaking down certain carbons). Thanks for the info though.
It's not going to "break down" before it melts. Evolv chose the 600F max somewhat arbitrarily, as retird pointed out. it worked out so they left it. Evolv would never have chosen nickel if something bad could happen that close to max temp. That was not arbitrary.You are misconstruing what evolv says on this issue. You're not the only person communicating with evolv, some of us talk to them on a regular basis. Evolv basically explained to you how the board senses temperature and the fact that it is an average. You chose to misconstrue it as a big problem. Temperature is not "wrong," it is a correct average temperature. The exact same thing happens in RBAs.
The only difference is the ratio in wicked to unwicked coil length. It is correct for a coil with a higher unwicked ratio to vape at a higher average temperature.
This is not a problem, it just needs to be understood.
Last edited:
I'm not misconstruing anything. I also never said the average temperature is wrong. I just said the average temperature is not the temperature that the liquid is being vaped at.
This does happen in RBAs but not to the same extent. The leads are much smaller and are usually always saturated and close to the cotton. The leads on the OCC are not. They extend all the way down, causing the average temperature to be higher.
This is not a problem with the DNA 40. This is an issue with the lead length on kanger coils. That is all. This is exactly what I had a conversation about with Brandon Ward. He told me he only has to do this with these coils just like I am doing. With his RBAs and RTAs he didn't.
Last edited:
And that is not a problem. It's just how it works. Adjust the temperature and vape, like has been suggested since the start of the thread. There is no inherent problem with legs running at a higher temperature unless it creates a vape you don't like. NOT a number you don't like.
Again this is not a problem, it just needs to be understood. Different setups can run at different average temperatures. This is perfectly normal.
Last edited:
I think at those temps and above its bad for the juice! There is no carbon in Ni metal!
There is Carbon in Ni200, not much, but it's there. Also, 600F is exactly where Ni200 starts to "creep" significantly. More importantly, that's where graphitization occurs. I'm not saying that's why Evolv choose 600, but I have a strong feeling that's why these coils are behaving the way they are.
Last edited:
Ok, I have had the VS DNA40 for almost a month now and the VS rDNA40 since Monday.
I like them, they are reliable and just plain feel good. I prefer the rDNA because of the ability to replace a battery and keep on going.
I have used the following toppers...
Atlantis (Kanthal mode) works like any other mod
Kangertech Sub Tank Mini, works great with Ni200 on the RBA section
Kangertech Sub tank Nano, works very well with the OCC coils
Veritas RDA, I did not try a dual coil in this, but single vertical coil works awesome...
Derringer RDA. single coil mode, works amazing, great flavor...
Freakshow RDA, I do not recommend it for Ni200, if you have like 2 hours to kill, it works and taste great, but man what a ridiculously tough build...
In the end, I had loads of trouble with the Sub-tank Mini and the Ni200 OCC coils. On the DNA (little one), they would fire great at first, then they would fire weak and produce little vapor. Then I would turn up the temp as I had heard, and it was great again. Then set it down and do something for a while grab it and fire it and, YOW, hot juice popping up and burning my lips and tongue...
So last night I had some time to kill and decided to do some testing. I have 2 Sub-tank Minis, and two Sub-tank Nanos. I filled every one of them with the same juice and grabbed a fresh OCC coil. I vaped each tank, with the same coil for about 30 minutes each one the rDNA with atty lock NOT on.
I got 4 vastly different experiences, despite the vapor shark reading 0.15 to 0.16 ohms the entire time.
Next I adjusted the rDNA settings for each tank and got a good vape and turned atty lock on, and repeated this for all 4 tanks.
Doing this I got a very consistent vape for a good 30 minutes on each one.
So now I am scratching my head thinking what the heck is going on here. So I started checking the tanks over real good.
I discovered the center pin of the 510 connection is floating and can be moved back and forth slightly in a vertical (up & down) direction.
I found that if I installed the coil and pushed the center pin in from the portion that would screw into the mod, I got a much more consistent vape, on all 4 tanks.
I hope this all makes sense, if not just ask and I will try to explain it better.
But it you have any of these tanks, before you install the coil, push the the center pin of the 510 connection in, install the coil and the center pin should now slightly protrude.
I think the inconsistencies we are seeing with the Kangertech coils is actually the tank.
The reason it isn't as evident with the RBA section, the RBA section is slightly longer and pushes on the center pin a little more... And we don't use the RBA section in the Nano...
I am am picturing a bunch of vapers taking apart their Kangertech Sub-tanks and see this for themselves right about now.
In the end, it is a connection issue as I had thought, but it does not appear to be in the coil, but the center pin of the 510 connection of the tank itself.
I sure hope this helps some folks out...
I like them, they are reliable and just plain feel good. I prefer the rDNA because of the ability to replace a battery and keep on going.
I have used the following toppers...
Atlantis (Kanthal mode) works like any other mod
Kangertech Sub Tank Mini, works great with Ni200 on the RBA section
Kangertech Sub tank Nano, works very well with the OCC coils
Veritas RDA, I did not try a dual coil in this, but single vertical coil works awesome...
Derringer RDA. single coil mode, works amazing, great flavor...
Freakshow RDA, I do not recommend it for Ni200, if you have like 2 hours to kill, it works and taste great, but man what a ridiculously tough build...
In the end, I had loads of trouble with the Sub-tank Mini and the Ni200 OCC coils. On the DNA (little one), they would fire great at first, then they would fire weak and produce little vapor. Then I would turn up the temp as I had heard, and it was great again. Then set it down and do something for a while grab it and fire it and, YOW, hot juice popping up and burning my lips and tongue...
So last night I had some time to kill and decided to do some testing. I have 2 Sub-tank Minis, and two Sub-tank Nanos. I filled every one of them with the same juice and grabbed a fresh OCC coil. I vaped each tank, with the same coil for about 30 minutes each one the rDNA with atty lock NOT on.
I got 4 vastly different experiences, despite the vapor shark reading 0.15 to 0.16 ohms the entire time.
Next I adjusted the rDNA settings for each tank and got a good vape and turned atty lock on, and repeated this for all 4 tanks.
Doing this I got a very consistent vape for a good 30 minutes on each one.
So now I am scratching my head thinking what the heck is going on here. So I started checking the tanks over real good.
I discovered the center pin of the 510 connection is floating and can be moved back and forth slightly in a vertical (up & down) direction.
I found that if I installed the coil and pushed the center pin in from the portion that would screw into the mod, I got a much more consistent vape, on all 4 tanks.
I hope this all makes sense, if not just ask and I will try to explain it better.
But it you have any of these tanks, before you install the coil, push the the center pin of the 510 connection in, install the coil and the center pin should now slightly protrude.
I think the inconsistencies we are seeing with the Kangertech coils is actually the tank.
The reason it isn't as evident with the RBA section, the RBA section is slightly longer and pushes on the center pin a little more... And we don't use the RBA section in the Nano...
I am am picturing a bunch of vapers taking apart their Kangertech Sub-tanks and see this for themselves right about now.
In the end, it is a connection issue as I had thought, but it does not appear to be in the coil, but the center pin of the 510 connection of the tank itself.
I sure hope this helps some folks out...
Ok, I have had the VS DNA40 for almost a month now and the VS rDNA40 since Monday.
I like them, they are reliable and just plain feel good. I prefer the rDNA because of the ability to replace a battery and keep on going.
I have used the following toppers...
Atlantis (Kanthal mode) works like any other mod
Kangertech Sub Tank Mini, works great with Ni200 on the RBA section
Kangertech Sub tank Nano, works very well with the OCC coils
Veritas RDA, I did not try a dual coil in this, but single vertical coil works awesome...
Derringer RDA. single coil mode, works amazing, great flavor...
Freakshow RDA, I do not recommend it for Ni200, if you have like 2 hours to kill, it works and taste great, but man what a ridiculously tough build...
In the end, I had loads of trouble with the Sub-tank Mini and the Ni200 OCC coils. On the DNA (little one), they would fire great at first, then they would fire weak and produce little vapor. Then I would turn up the temp as I had heard, and it was great again. Then set it down and do something for a while grab it and fire it and, YOW, hot juice popping up and burning my lips and tongue...
So last night I had some time to kill and decided to do some testing. I have 2 Sub-tank Minis, and two Sub-tank Nanos. I filled every one of them with the same juice and grabbed a fresh OCC coil. I vaped each tank, with the same coil for about 30 minutes each one the rDNA with atty lock NOT on.
I got 4 vastly different experiences, despite the vapor shark reading 0.15 to 0.16 ohms the entire time.
Next I adjusted the rDNA settings for each tank and got a good vape and turned atty lock on, and repeated this for all 4 tanks.
Doing this I got a very consistent vape for a good 30 minutes on each one.
So now I am scratching my head thinking what the heck is going on here. So I started checking the tanks over real good.
I discovered the center pin of the 510 connection is floating and can be moved back and forth slightly in a vertical (up & down) direction.
I found that if I installed the coil and pushed the center pin in from the portion that would screw into the mod, I got a much more consistent vape, on all 4 tanks.
I hope this all makes sense, if not just ask and I will try to explain it better.
But it you have any of these tanks, before you install the coil, push the the center pin of the 510 connection in, install the coil and the center pin should now slightly protrude.
I think the inconsistencies we are seeing with the Kangertech coils is actually the tank.
The reason it isn't as evident with the RBA section, the RBA section is slightly longer and pushes on the center pin a little more... And we don't use the RBA section in the Nano...
I am am picturing a bunch of vapers taking apart their Kangertech Sub-tanks and see this for themselves right about now.
In the end, it is a connection issue as I had thought, but it does not appear to be in the coil, but the center pin of the 510 connection of the tank itself.
I sure hope this helps some folks out...
Gee, I might just know a little somethin' eh?
This is exactly what I've read in multiple other discussions about Ni200. I've also seen videos on YouTube recommending Ni201 because of this exact reasoning.
Nope, Ni200 is ANSI rated for service up to 600F in boilers and pressure vessels.
There's theory, and there's practice. OCC coils work fine at over 500F average. they just do. they don't "break down." the exposed legs don't reach 800F which would melt the insulators. ni200 only embrittles when dry burned or with real hot (glowing) legs. even if they did embrittle the only concern would be coil failure. but ni201 might be good to try.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but kanthal coils graphitize in use due to high temperatures and eventually embrittle because of it.
Gee, I might just know a little somethin' eh?
I never doubted that you know something, I just didn't like the condescending attitude you took almost immediately when you started replying to me...
(kind of like the above remark)
And I still suspect that it really isn't an attitude, but is really just a language barrier... Your statements have the halmark of an engineer that is not a native english speaker. I have experienced it many times over the years, I would even suspect you may possibly be originally educated in India, but that is not a certainty. India does seem to educate more engineers than anyone else, or at least in the fields of work I have been in previously.
And for the record, I have been saying it was a connection issue, I just thought it was inherent to the OCC coils themselves since the RBA section and all of my drippers worked fine. Logical conclusion, I was just missing what appears to be the culprit, the floating pin in the base of the tank...
I hope my time last night helped someone other than myself
They do work fine over 500F, but if I have it set to 540F and that is the average, wouldn't you think the legs would be close to if not over 600F?
I've only had that happen to my kanthal coils if I let them get too hot without any liquid and wicking. With normal use my coils usually stay in good shape. I don't get dry burns anymore because I'll just drip more or let my cotton absorb more juice if I start to taste anything funky.
- Status
