KangerTech SUBTANK Mini

[JC87]

Did you contact Kanger through the Chinese or the US email? I havent heard back from them yet (using the US service email address). This whole situation is starting to leave a bad taste in my mouth just like the burned insulator did

 

[JC87]

"Black PEEK is either Bearing Grade or 30% Carbon fibre filled, Tan PEEK is unfilled or 30% Glass filled. (Glass filled is basically high temp PEEK)
Ceramic PEEK is White, blue PEEK also exists.
Tan brown is it's natural processed colour.
From what I'm aware it's colourless in it's raw state, and becomes tan due to being processed, as PEEK fibres need to be twisted, woven etc into sheets or rods, though I'm not 100% on this.
I'm unsure what's in the Subtank Mini now considering it's clear, which is more likely PET"

This was an observation from a user on reddit who knows more about insulating materials than I do. It seems they went from silica gel on the original subtank and the early subtank minis, to PET on the clear subtank insulators, and now they are finally using peek with the brown insulators, yet are claiming the clear ones are the same thing when they are not.

 

[jj6404]

Did you contact Kanger through the Chinese or the US email? I havent heard back from them yet (using the US service email address). This whole situation is starting to leave a bad taste in my mouth just like the burned insulator did

The US email I found on reddit.

"Black PEEK is either Bearing Grade or 30% Carbon fibre filled, Tan PEEK is unfilled or 30% Glass filled. (Glass filled is basically high temp PEEK)
Ceramic PEEK is White, blue PEEK also exists.
Tan brown is it's natural processed colour.
From what I'm aware it's colourless in it's raw state, and becomes tan due to being processed, as PEEK fibres need to be twisted, woven etc into sheets or rods, though I'm not 100% on this.
I'm unsure what's in the Subtank Mini now considering it's clear, which is more likely PET"

This was an observation from a user on reddit who knows more about insulating materials than I do. It seems they went from silica gel on the original subtank and the early subtank minis, to PET on the clear subtank insulators, and now they are finally using peek with the brown insulators, yet are claiming the clear ones are the same thing when they are not.

So is PET decent at least for this application?

 

[JC87]

The US email I found on reddit.


So is PET decent at least for this application?

Obviously not, as my insulator melted within 5ml of ejuice and a user on another forums insulator melted as well within about the same amount of time, to the point where Kanger felt the need to make and sell only the new upgraded brown peek insulators now.

 

[vincom]

their response to my email, still waiting kanger u.s.:

Please be informed that SUNTANK RBA only attach by strong E-juice and in case user using normal Juice, it is no affected.
But we do consider this and hence make improvement in Mini RBA, hence your insulator should not have issue.
For your information.

Cheung
Kangertech

 

[underwhelmd]

Alright here it is, directly from kanger:
"Please be informed that the Mini RBA already upgraded and both transparent and light brown insulator is in same function. Kangertech only send the SUBTANK RBA insulator in free of charge, for Mini RBA insulator, you need to send back the insulator to our customer service center at 11555 Medlock Bridge Rd. Suite 100, Johns Creek, GA 30097. Once receive your Mini RBA insulator, we will arrange the insulator for you"

This sounds perfectly reasonable to me. My understanding of that is they are saying that if you actually have a problem they want to see it and they will replace if so. You are asking them for a preemptive warranty replacement. Your tank is working good I assume or you would be saying otherwise...?

if you are that concerned about it, then 49 cents plus a stamp seems like cheap peace of mind. You are lucky to live in the US... that site won't ship to Canada... we don't exist.

 

[JC87]

This sounds perfectly reasonable to me. My understanding of that is they are saying that if you actually have a problem they want to see it and they will replace if so. You are asking them for a premptive warranty replacement. Your tank is working good I assume or you would be saying otherwise...?

if you are that concerned about it, then 49 cents plus a stamp seems like cheap peace of mind. You are lucky to live in the US... that site won't ship to Canada... we don't exist.

I totally understand what you are saying, and it makes sense if the clear insulators haven't been failing, but would you want to risk completely messing up your tank by taking a chance with insulators that have been shown to fail by multiple users?

That really sucks they don't ship to Canada though I hope you are able to get your updated and safe insulators soon!

Personally I think Kanger should admit that the clear ones are also a problem material and provide the newest, safest insulators to preexisting customers who have made a purchase and ended up with the clear insulators. Thats just me! If you want to buy them, then go for it, but from the viewpoint of a paying customer, I would expect to receive the product in a safe condition and if it wasn't, then be upgraded accordingly without having to pay extra.

 

[underwhelmd]

Sure seems like a thread hijack to me.

 

[JC87]

You seem suspiciously dismissive of a potential health concern. I think pretty much all of us got into vaping in the first place to get away from inhaling toxic chemicals. Im sure nobody wants to be inhaling burned plastic insulators. Clearly people are concerned, and for good reason, which is why the discussion has continued. Im sorry its bothering you, but until this is resolved for everybody and our concerns are alleviated I'm sure its going to be talked about at length here and in other Subtank Mini threads to get the word out to people

 

[underwhelmd]

Looking forward to getting my mini...should be friday. New batteries and occ coils as well. Sad that they are ten bucks cheaper per five coils online than local. Hoping the price drops some as they become more mainstream... won't hold my breath.

Waiting for vapemail is painful.

 

[Hoopie]

Kanger send the Mini out with a sub-ohm build, hmmm. I have the Subtank and the Nano. I'm a Kayfun vape addict so the Subtank has a bit too much air flow for me. I need to put a more restrictive drip tip on to get decent flavor. The Nano is an awesome little tank. Very good flavor at the lowest air flow setting and HUGE at the highest. With the 1.2 ohm coil and my iPV Mini I can jump around the power banks from stealth vaping to partly cloudy.

I'm curious about the Mini RBA deck. Seems the positive block is very thin for sub-ohm builds to transfer a lot of heat to the insulator. Not really surprised that they are melting. Was wondering if flooding was an issue also with that low positive block. That sucks JC87 how your RBA shorted. Looking at the scorched metal of your deck, it's a wonder that all that happened was burnt taste. Thank goodness. At least Kanger is trying to make it right

 

[JC87]

I got my girlfriend the nano at the same time I got my Mini, and the Nano is fantastic. No issues with it whatsoever. In regards to if the Subtank Mini RBA ever flooded, mine never did, and I never got any dry hits. It wicked like a champ with 80/20 VG juice and I was very impressed. I'm really bummed out that my mini is ruined though. Half of the melted insulator is fused to the RBA deck and cant be removed, and no amount of cleaning or soaking has been able to remove the burned insulator taste and smell from my Mini regardless of trying multiple OCC coils and ejuices afterwards. I will need a new tank I am still waiting to see if Kanger will make things right, fingers crossed!

 

[Vadi]

I'm very close to getting a Mini. I'm only running an MVP20 right now. Is it going to be worth it?

 

[Hoopie]

I'm very close to getting a Mini. I'm only running an MVP20 right now. Is it going to be worth it?

You will need to use the 1.2 ohm coils, the MVP20W doesn't fire anything lower than 1 ohm. I have the two 0.5 ohm coils that came with my tanks and bought a 5 pack of 1.2 ohm coils, so my vote would be yes. If this is your first RTA, then just build a 1.4 ohm coil and have fun. I've ran my 1.2 ohm coil on my Nano up to 25 watts and it chucks. You will need to change to a lower nic juice though if you want that hot of a vape.

 

[JC87]

I'm very close to getting a Mini. I'm only running an MVP20 right now. Is it going to be worth it?

I'd recommend the nano over the mini for your setup, using the 1.2 ohm OCC coils. If you are interested in rebuilding, the mini would be a perfect choice once its RBA issues are sorted out.

 

[vincom]

I have the Subtank and the Nano. I'm a Kayfun vape addict so the Subtank has a bit too much air flow for me. I need to put a more restrictive drip tip on to get decent flavor. The Nano is an awesome little tank. Very good flavor at the lowest air flow setting and HUGE at the highest.

on airflow you can vary the amount to as little as u want, i made a post about this but here it is:

instead of using the preset air holes in the kanger subtank mini/nano use the largest airhole setting and turn the ring to the right to vary the opening.
if turning the ring tothe left the other preset holes come into play so it wont work

 

[southyr6]

I've been using my Mini for over a week and it is pure vaping heaven. I just emailed Kanger asking them if they have any intentions of releasing a stainless steel replacement tank. I've already chipped my pyrex, and i'm not even slightly abusive to my tanks. I have mine on an iStick 30W and it fell over while standing upright on my coffee table. That's all it took, and that makes me nervous. I'll let you all know if they reply, in case any of you share my concern.

 

[Hoopie]

on airflow you can vary the amount to as little as u want, i made a post about this but here it is:

instead of using the preset air holes in the kanger subtank mini/nano use the largest airhole setting and turn the ring to the right to vary the opening.
if turning the ring tothe left the other preset holes come into play so it wont work

I've done that with my Nano, but the Nano's smallest air hole is actually fine for me. The regular Subtank has a much larger single hole and why I partially block it and use a different drip tip.

 

[Randal]

I am waiting for my Mini to arrive tomorrow, and have been anxiously waiting since placing the order a couple days ago. I bought the Atlantis about a month ago, and after burning through the 2 coils supplied with the tank decided to order the Subtank Mini. Looking at the prices of replacement coils for the Atlantis inspired me to get into the Mini, specifically for the RBA section. I hope to use the RBA most of the time, and rebuild the OCC coils, although I am a complete beginner when it comes to rebuilding. I hope I wasn't too ambitious thinking I would be interested in rebuilding, and that I can learn to do it. I figure even if I decide I can't, or don't want to build my own coils, I can always buy pre-built Kanthal coils and Japanese cotton online for far less than Atlantis coils.

I am slightly worried about getting a Mini with the clear insulator, but I only use 50/50 VG/PG juice so hopefully it is not an issue either way. Looking at the price of the replacement insulators on the Kanger site for under $5, I don't see any reason to complain if I do have to buy them.

After watching practically every video I can find on YouTube on rebuilding and wicking and read through many threads on ECF, I am feeling confident, but hesitant on getting the hang of the Subtank Mini and the RBA section. I am appreciative of all those people who make videos and post info/pics here.

 

[DP2Raja]

Randal, I got my Mini in this week (ordered last Thursday) from MyVapeStore and it came with the new peek/tan insulator in the RBA deck. Hopefully yours will also. I am firing up to 37 watts on a 0.6 coil and no bad taste or melting.