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DavidAmonettNashville

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Hey David, I got my Atlantis and 30w ipv Mini mod on Jan 23rd and immediately got used to direct lung hits. I just sometimes have thought i could also do mouth to lung hits, but apparently that is not the case. I still find the Atlantis more open and not as hot as the Kanger ST Mini. It's just hot.

Look at the chimney openings of the two tanks.
View attachment 416145

Edit: Oops, i just realized i posted this photo already. BTW - If i had to give up one tank today, i would choose to keep the Atlantis.




I like my atlantis tank too but I feel it mutes the sweeter notes...I also didn't care for the ceramic wicking. When the new JC coils hit locally I'll buy a pack and maybe put the atlantis on my IPV mini and the ST on my istick 50.
 
Joey, congrats here too on losing the stinkies. To M2L hit the STmini many are using the slotted largest afc opening and dialing it down to prefferred airflow. It does work but this device is really set up for lung hits imo. High power at that. Build the rba Joey. You'll have control over the vapor temp.

Vaping this 30ga spaced twisted, 8wrap, 6-32 screw ID, 1.4ohm tension wound coil wicked chunky with KGD cotton. Nice cool-warm vape at 30w.

View attachment 416146

Ok Cigatron ,

I understand every thing you wrote except --- what is 6-32 screw ID?

I might try the re-build section next. I have never done that before.
 
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DP2Raja

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i do both mtl & direct lung, it all depends on ur setup, airflow and power.
i have 2 rba's(i have 2 stminis), one diy coil at 1.4 and the other stock coil 0.5, i do both mtl &dl on either depending on airflow, power and drag time(usually less than 3sec for me) and how hard i drag.
i dont need or want to buy anymore stock coils but its another option.
the subtank is so versatile, its why i luv it.

Right on Viacom! True, dat!
 

Darryl Licht

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Hey David, I got my Atlantis and 30w iPV Mini mod on Jan 23rd and immediately got used to direct lung hits. I just sometimes have thought i could also do mouth to lung hits, but apparently that is not the case. I still find the Atlantis more open and not as hot as the Kanger ST Mini. It's just hot.

Look at the chimney openings of the two tanks.
View attachment 416145

Edit: Oops, i just realized i posted this photo already. BTW - If i had to give up one tank today, i would choose to keep the Atlantis.




It would be a tough decision for me on which to keep. I love the slightly better flavor of the STmini, and I love the slightly better draw of the Atlantis. If only I could mate the two and vape their offspring! I also wish Aspire had an RBA deck or option for one on the Atlantis.

With rain expected here for the next 5 days, I'm going out to grab some coiling supplies and I'll be experimenting with the STMini RBA and twisted coils first, and depending on how that goes I may venture into parallel build land!
 

cigatron

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Ok Cigatron ,

I understand every thing you wrote except --- what is 6-32 screw ID?

I might try the re-build section next. I have never done that before.


I twist up and anneal the 30ga then wind it on a 6-32 screw, set the coil in the atty then unscrew the screw from the coil. Makes for a super easy spaced coil. Haven't measured the actual ID for twisted 30. Thing is, the actual diameter of the coil varies with wire size because of the angled thread pitch of screws.
 
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Darryl Licht

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I twist up and anneal the 30ga then wind it on a 6-32 screw, set the coil in the atty then unscrew the screw from the coil. Makes for a super easy spaced coil. Haven't measured the actual ID for twisted 30. Thing is, the actual diameter of the coil varies with wire size because of the angled thread pitch of screws.

I'm curious what your reasons are for building a twisted spaced coil over a twisted contact coil?
 

g3n3r1c

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Interesting your 4 wrap came out to .7ohms while Mac's 5 wrap came out to .5 with the same wire gauge and coil diameter. Someone's meter wonky?
30AWG TLP 6/5, 2.5mm i.d., 9mm L/L, t.m.c. = .4345Ω
WTH are vapin', seaweed!?

I was hoping for the nice spread Mac showed off, I wanted that nice coil length for wick coverage.
I think I found the resistance variance between Mac's setup and mine, looks like I may only be heating one wire according to steam engine.

My coil is a bit spaced, no where near as precise as Mac's as I hand wrap my coils on a drill bit and this is probably not what you call tensioned...
I want to build a tensioner but haven't dug through my garage for the right materials yet, it's cold outside and my garage isn't heated.

Seaweed? I wonder... :p
Wick is just JC, it's the juice. Some DIY I colored for the effect in my STm.. been vaping in a steel tank for so long I thought it would be interesting to see color.

Edit: I checked on steam engine, seems a single coil of 30awg would be what I'm reading, have to go check my leads and make sure I didn't screw it up by breaking a wire or something, back to the drawing board...
 
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cigatron

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With rain expected here for the next 5 days, I'm going out to grab some coiling supplies and I'll be experimenting with the STMini RBA and twisted coils first, and depending on how that goes I may venture into parallel build land!

Good news D, you can easily outbuild the factory coils provided with the lemo. Pick up some 30 & 32ga to twisted up. The 32 will provide excellent flavor at 20-25w. The 30 at higher wattages. My fav so far for the Lemo is a 32ga (30 twists per inch), then annealed a few times with a torch to take the springness out, then wound on a 6-32 screw, 7/6 wraps, 1.6 ohm, wicked heavy with kgd. Vapes great at 23.5w with my 50/50 juice. Good luck and let us know how you made out.
 

MacTechVpr

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Great looking TLP G3! Not as easy to pull off as it looks. I tried a haf a dozen times but never got one to look that good. You and Mac are talented builders for sure.

Interesting your 4 wrap came out to .7ohms while Mac's 5 wrap came out to .5 with the same wire gauge and coil diameter. Someone's meter wonky?

I was hoping for the nice spread Mac showed off, I wanted that nice coil length for wick coverage.
I think I found the resistance variance between Mac's setup and mine, looks like I may only be heating one wire according to steam engine.

My coil is a bit spaced, no where near as precise as Mac's as I hand wrap my coils on a drill bit and this is probably not what you call tensioned...
I want to build a tensioner but haven't dug through my garage for the right materials yet, it's cold outside and my garage isn't heated.

Seaweed? I wonder... :p
Wick is just JC, it's the juice. Some DIY I colored for the effect in my STm.. been vaping in a steel tank for so long I thought it would be interesting to see color.

Edit: I checked on steam engine, seems a single coil of 30awg would be what I'm reading, have to go check my leads and make sure I didn't screw it up by breaking a wire or something, back to the drawing board...


Thanks fella's. I'm not going to tell any of you to use a specific wind. I love this one and I'm talkin it up 'cause it's a great compromise (twisted leads) of the differing performance of parallels and twisters both of which I enjoy. But the main issue I'm speaking too are the benefits tension brings to the wind and particularly microcoils whether parallel, conventional or twisted.

You're doin' fine with the principle G. Could see no interrupts there. One slightly premature exit angle and as I noted, not tensioned. But a good parallel. Try to get around to getting a jig or pin vise. Unequal wrap tension common to hand winds will skew your resistance. The variation of .1mm single turn as S-E's creator notes is not much. But multiplied across the wind it adds up. Add uneven wrap spacing which nobody really measures so no predictable builds. Tension winding yields a repeatable profile of your line length and res so you don't need to break your head to get a great vape…regardless of the wind you choose.

I actually love to see folks take the time to successfully build both so they can tell the difference. Only way to be sure. And it's not my precision…it's Mother Nature. She don't fool around.

:D

Thanks for the nod all, g'luck. And G, thx again for the funny papers.


p.s.s. I'm using 9mm as lead length norm for the SubM RBA.
p.s.s Cig I actually wound 6$ on par30...30AWG TLP 6/5, 2.5mm i.d., 9mm L/L, t.m.c. = .4345Ω.
Metered out to ~.5Ω as S-E has no way to break out the calc for the lead twists.
 

g3n3r1c

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Edit: I checked on steam engine, seems a single coil of 30awg would be what I'm reading, have to go check my leads and make sure I didn't screw it up by breaking a wire or something, back to the drawing board...

nothing wrong there, I wrapped a new coil same results, cleaned up the ST base and connections etc.. same results...

both coils are firing.

5 wraps is giving me 0.85 ohm and 4 is getting me 0.69 ohm...

maybe something in the ST itself giving me extra resistance? Oh well, it works :)
 

cigatron

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nothing wrong there, I wrapped a new coil same results, cleaned up the ST base and connections etc.. same results...

both coils are firing.

5 wraps is giving me 0.85 ohm and 4 is getting me 0.69 ohm...

maybe something in the ST itself giving me extra resistance? Oh well, it works :)

No biggie G, as long as you can duplicate. FWIW my res came out closer to yours than Macs. Just in case you haven't, check to make sure your positive/airtube is tightly securing the positive post block.
 

Darryl Licht

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Thanks fella's. I'm not going to tell any of you to use a specific wind. I love this one and I'm talkin it up 'cause it's a great compromise (twisted leads) of the differing performance of parallels and twisters both of which I enjoy. But the main issue I'm speaking too are the benefits tension brings to the wind and particularly microcoils whether parallel, conventional or twisted.

You're doin' fine with the principle G. Could see no interrupts there. One slightly premature exit angle and as I noted, not tensioned. But a good parallel. Try to get around to getting a jig or pin vise. Unequal wrap tension common to hand winds will skew your resistance. The variation of .1mm single turn as S-E's creator notes is not much. But multiplied across the wind it adds up. Add uneven wrap spacing which nobody really measures so no predictable builds. Tension winding yields a repeatable profile of your line length and res so you don't need to break your head to get a great vape…regardless of the wind you choose.

I actually love to see folks take the time to successfully build both so they can tell the difference. Only way to be sure. And it's not my precision…it's Mother Nature. She don't fool around.

:D

Thanks for the nod all, g'luck. And G, thx again for the funny papers.


p.s.s. I'm using 9mm as lead length norm for the SubM RBA.
p.s.s Cig I actually wound 6$ on par30...30AWG TLP 6/5, 2.5mm i.d., 9mm L/L, t.m.c. = .4345Ω.
Metered out to ~.5Ω as S-E has no way to break out the calc for the lead twists.

Mac:

Have you considered producing tutorials on some of your builds?

Or YT videos? Lots of unknowledgeable yahoos out there doing so, it would be nice to have an actual coil artist like yourself doing a video series for a change!
 

cigatron

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I'm curious what your reasons are for building a twisted spaced coil over a twisted contact coil?


Heat concentration. Contact coils concentrate the heat in the smallest possible area. That's ok for really small atties where space constraints are the limiting factor and maximum wick-to-coil contact is the end goal. I like the way spaced coils heat. They use more of the wick length per given res and rarely run dry, even at elevated wattage. They cool faster after a pull. My wicking lasts longer. The vape stays cooler during long pulls. Flavor is great. They don't spit or pop at you. It doesn't matter if the turns of the coil separate because they already are. They are easier to set because it doesn't matter if the turns are exactly the same distant apart. The coil lasts longer because eventually you cannot dryburn a contact coil (single strand) enough to reopen all of the alumina intercrystalline voids that were initially created during the oxidation process.

Downsides? One. It takes more power to drive a spaced coil to the equivalent vapor and flavor production of a single strand contact coil of equal res. Not sure on the power level diff between spaced twisted vs. contact twisted. Probably less than 10%, guessing, but the increased power requirement is why I prefer 32ga twisted. Less mass to heat so they fire rocket fast.....for a twisted...lol

I could go on but won't... too technical...but to each their own. Don't trust me.....wind it to see if it works for you.
 

Darryl Licht

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Heat concentration. Contact coils concentrate the heat in the smallest possible area. That's ok for really small atties where space constraints are the limiting factor and maximum wick-to-coil contact is the end goal. I like the way spaced coils heat. They use more of the wick length per given res and rarely run dry, even at elevated wattage. They cool faster after a pull. My wicking lasts longer. The vape stays cooler during long pulls. Flavor is great. They don't spit or pop at you. It doesn't matter if the turns of the coil separate because they already are. They are easier to set because it doesn't matter if the turns are exactly the same distant apart. The coil lasts longer because eventually you cannot dryburn a contact coil (single strand) enough to reopen all of the alumina intercrystalline voids that were initially created during the oxidation process.

Downsides? One. It takes more power to drive a spaced coil to the equivalent vapor and flavor production of a single strand contact coil of equal res. Not sure on the power level diff between spaced twisted vs. contact twisted. Probably less than 10%, guessing, but the increased power requirement is why I prefer 32ga twisted. Less mass to heat so they fire rocket fast.....for a twisted...lol

I could go on but won't... too technical...but to each their own. Don't trust me.....wind it to see if it works for you.

I wasn't criticizing you, merely asking why. Specifically you and MacTech seem to have completely differing viewpoints on coil design for the ST mini...
 

cigatron

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I wasn't criticizing you, merely asking why. Specifically you and MacTech seem to have completely differing viewpoints on coil design for the ST mini...

Oh, I know D. Sorry if I came across as being affended...I'm not bro..you kinda flipped on my spock switch...lol

Mac and I agree on many things..more than most will pick up on reading our posts. We both like to share our personal preference of winds based on differing experiences... over 300 builds for me....over 30000000 for Mac...lol.. It's all good...wind'm till you you're happy and vape on.
 

IanDVaypes

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Didn't drill it out much, just used a bit slightly bigger than the channel.

NiSc3KJ.jpg
 
Alright question for the more experienced out there. I tried building a parallel coil based on the advice/pics of MacTechVpr and I have two very different thoughts on it. First, building wasn't too bad to do at all. GREAT taste compared to a traditional build and slightly better than the twisted wire builds I've been running. Now, before I get to my con, I want to state what I've built. It's a .4ohm build on an iStick 30 using 28ga Kanthal wire. I built it on a 5/64 bit and did the (duh) parallel wire then twisted the ends based on the pics posted a few pages ago. Now, my con. Any time I take this build to 22.5 watts or over I get a nasty burnt taste after a second or so of hit. If I drop to 22 watts, I can take a 5 second inhale with no problem. But I add half a watt and it's burnt. My question is, is this a characteristic of this type of coil or am I underwicked? I'd love to stick with this coil and give it a good run but I'd like to have a little higher ceiling with power. Thoughts guys?

Edit: Would I be better off redoing the build using 26ga Kanthal in the same method but on a 3/32 bit to increase the wick to wire contact area? I'm aiming for .4-.5ohm so any advice would be welcomed.
 
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