to those who own the subtank mini, how do you clean the topcap with the shaft attachment after emptying your ejiuce? as for my kfl+. i just disassembled it and wipe it with tissue. honestly, it's my one of my concern because i change my ejuice everyday and i'm thinking it might be a PITA to reach those pieces. thanks in advance!
KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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I'm glad to see someone is getting good use out of the rba, I can't even wick the prebuilt coil without getting burnt hits. Then again I'm new totally new to wicking coils.
I should mention the glass slides right off making it even easier to clean than most tanks.
Can anyone give input as to the longevity of the occ coil heads? Also do the 1.2 heads consume lots of eliquid? Thanks
Good mornin' Z, all I can do is give you an impression at this point having run three OCC's (2x.05Ω Sub+Min, 1x1.2Ω Sub) by way of this post on the main ProtankMicro thread Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!
As typical of Kanger factory coils about 3-4 days with a mid to densely pigmented high-VG tobacco before saturation begins to affect performance. I've been researching alternatives to cleaning silica and other synthetics using VG to purge (or dilute) the juice in lieu of cleaning, dry burning, etc. It's been moderately effective at minimizing dry hit or scorched tasting episodes beyond the 4-days. Discoloration of juice is an important indicator that you've reached the saturation limits for JC (Japanese cotton). Another, increased draw resistance or vapor output.
Using the gradual increase of diluting darkened juice and purging every 3rd fill or so (as much as 50% of refill) I was able to stretch the .5Ω coils out to 10 days. Ironically both improved slightly for flavor. You'll notice that dilution will not necessarily affect flavor much because you are experiencing reduction of the flavoring (think reheated soups, tasty!). The 1.2Ω coil saw better flavor production particularly at lower power despite the airier more diffuse vapor result. These are not flavor coil designs. And the durability of the thicker wire will not appreciable increase their utility particularly at higher power as evident by this...
You'll notice some of the pixie dust on my left thumb. That is residual powder-like flake of a single continuous scale of solid accretion, like very soft pumice, that was affixed to the top of the coil from end-to-end. Carbonization first is conductive so if substantial as in this case will increase your resistance in operation continuing the process of aggregation, an endless circle once begun. Also, such surface deposits trap that heat locally reducing output turning the coil area into a little oven rather than an effective vaporizing element. It may seem cooler. It's not. You're cooking the juice.
In context this particular coil was run out to 10-days and periodically run out to 45W where it performed well. Also some of you will see some considerable improvement in vape time if you're using lighter juices or straight VG over the above. Perhaps weeks before the onset of saturation. This was not a worst case test but a serious challenge for pigmented flavored juices.
Overall I see this as a considerable improvement in overall coil design on the part of Kanger. One I believe we can improve upon as rebuilders and particularly with the use of synthetics for those of us who can't rebuild every few days. And rewicking these massive, generously cotton packed factory coils made accordingly delicate will not be an easy proposition for most without seriously distorting them. The kind of thing that would make beginners say…ehhh, rebuilding's not for me. Definitely after trying to vape one.
Don't rush, we got the hook-up.
To try to minimize early saturation may I suggest you swap out batteries as soon as you detect any of the above. No faster way to gunk a coil than to run it with insufficient or unstable power.
The best recommendation would be to rebuild a proper electrical wind, symmetrical and tensioned whether open or a contact coil. This affords us the best efficiency alternatives possible. The subject by the way of my postings on the moderate>advanced thread Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!
Good luck. See ya there.
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Thanks for the thorough response, much appreciated!Good mornin' Z, all I can do is give you an impression at this point having run three OCC's (2x.05Ω Sub+Min, 1x1.2Ω Sub) by way of this post on the main ProtankMicro thread Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!
As typical of Kanger factory coils about 3-4 days with a mid to densely pigmented high-VG tobacco before saturation begins to affect performance. I've been researching alternatives to cleaning silica and other synthetics using VG to purge (or dilute) the juice in lieu of cleaning, dry burning, etc. It's been moderately effective at minimizing dry hit or scorched tasting episodes beyond the 4-days. Discoloration of juice is an important indicator that you've reached the saturation limits for JC (Japanese cotton). Another, increased draw resistance or vapor output.
Using the gradual increase of diluting darkened juice and purging every 3rd fill or so (as much as 50% of refill) I was able to stretch the .5Ω coils out to 10 days. Ironically the both improved slightly for flavor. You'll notice that dilution will not necessarily affect flavor much because you are experiencing reduction of the flavoring (think reheated soups, tasty!). The 1.2Ω coil saw better flavor production particularly at lower power despite the airier more diffuse vapor result. These are not flavor coil designs. And the durability of the thicker wire will not appreciable increase their utility particularly at higher power as evident by this...
You'll notice some of the pixie dust on my left thumb. That is residual powder-like flake of a single continuous scale of solid accretion, like very soft pumice, that was affixed to the top of the coil from end-to-end. Carbonization first is conductive so if substantial as in this case will increase your resistance in operation continuing the process of aggregation, an endless circle once begun. Also, such surface deposits trap that heat locally reducing output turning the coil area into a little oven rather than an effective vaporizing element. It may seem cooler. It's not. You're cooking the juice.
In context this particular coil was run out to 10-days and periodically run out to 45W where it performed well. Also some of you will see some considerable improvement in vape time if you're using lighter juices or straight VG over the above. Perhaps weeks before the onset of saturation. This was not a worst case test but a serious challenge for pigmented flavored juices.
Overall I see this as a considerable improvement in overall coil design on the part of Kanger. One I believe we can improve upon as rebuilders and particularly with the use of synthetics for those of us who can't rebuild every few days. And rewicking these massive, generously cotton packed factory coils made accordingly delicate will not be an easy proposition for most without seriously distorting them. The kind of thing that would make beginners say ehhh, rebuilding's not for me. Definitely after trying to vape one.
Don't rush, we got the hook-up.
To try to minimize early saturation may I suggest you swap out batteries as soon as you detect any of the above. No faster way to gunk a coil than to run it with insufficient or unstable power.
The best recommendation would be to rebuild a proper electrical wind, symmetrical and tensioned whether open or a contact coil. This affords us the best efficiency alternatives possible. The subject by the way of my postings on the moderate>advanced thread Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!
Good luck. See ya there.
Hey Bammer555 I know what you mean. I am new to it to, alot of trial and error. Evey time I think I have it figured out bam burnt hit....grrrrr... but this rba build is the real deal, I am so glad i watched that video instead of passing on it because it is in a different language. You should check it out, I am new to building coils to. just take your time and you wont be disapointed. Just go to youtube and search for this title and watch the video...note I didn't do the twisted wire I just used one pice of 28 guage ni200. Just use a coil calculator for what ever wire and ohms you want.....
this is the title to search for
[h=1]RBA Rebuild Verical Capillary Coil, Kanger SubTank - 1.[/h]
I'm loving the rba section on the mini way better than the occ ones. No dry hits and chain vaping at 30w on pwm mode on the ipv mini. I went through the pre-installed occ head pretty fast, however I suspect it's because I was using the ipv mini in dc-dc mode and it cannot buck down voltages in that mode, just battery voltage. So I guess when my battery was fully charged I was giving it 4.2 volts rather than 3.9 lol.
I was able to take out the cotton out of the occ and the coil was in good condition so I might try to re wick it and give it another try on pwm mode.
I was able to take out the cotton out of the occ and the coil was in good condition so I might try to re wick it and give it another try on pwm mode.
Works good for me most times. Just a good hot soak in filtered water micro heated in a pyrex glass. I'm in S Fl so at times the tap runs highly chlorinated water which I avoid exposing silicone to. And as I posted here, if you're changing juice flavors an effective way to remove most any trace of residual taste
Remove the tank on both the Sub and mini to get to the upper section of the tank and top cap. Some baking soda and a small round soft nylon brush up the chimney every once in a while or any juice will build up there stainless or no. This set does multi-duty on an assortment of tasks like stubborn small and large drip tips. But a toothbrush and Q-tip will do in a pinch.
Good luck.
All good info here. As I have said before, I am new to this style of tanks and RBAs. I had rebuilt my protank heads, but never anything more than that. I have had great results with the RBA section. I much prefer it to the OCC heads. I have a 1.2 ohm coil with 28 ga kanthal and KGD cotton, 50/50 e-liquid. Great hit after hit. It might be important to add that I do not have the capability to run this higher than 20 watts. Regardless, I haven't had a single dry hit. Am I lucky?
Now, one thing that I wasn't expecting with this tank, but it makes sense. All of that great flavor and vapor comes from somewhere. That somewhere is e-liquid. I used to go through 3-4 ml per day. With the Mini, I have easily doubled my e-liquid use.
Now, one thing that I wasn't expecting with this tank, but it makes sense. All of that great flavor and vapor comes from somewhere. That somewhere is e-liquid. I used to go through 3-4 ml per day. With the Mini, I have easily doubled my e-liquid use.
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Works good for me most times. Just a good hot soak in filtered water micro heated in a pyrex glass. I'm in S Fl so at times the tap runs highly chlorinated water which I avoid exposing silicone to. And as I posted here, if you're changing juice flavors an effective way to remove most any trace of residual taste…
Remove the tank on both the Sub and mini to get to the upper section of the tank and top cap. Some baking soda and a small round soft nylon brush up the chimney every once in a while or any juice will build up there stainless or no. This set does multi-duty on an assortment of tasks like stubborn small and large drip tips. But a toothbrush and Q-tip will do in a pinch.
Good luck.
thanks Mac for the baking soda tip!
finally got my kanger subtank mini, I'm using the 1.5ohms OCC, so far so good. One question regarding the insulator of the rba section, I saw in P.Busurado's video that the color of the new insulator but mine came like brownish, I just want to make sure if my insulator is the replacement one. I will attach a picture of it later. Thanks!
I use Japanese organic cotton and find that when I have installed a new wick that vaping for the first 1/4 of a tank or so I can taste the cotton a bit. But that goes away and for the next week or so I have perfect flavor without any cotton taste.
Not sure if you are giving it enough time to break in. Also, wash and rinse your hands well before wicking with cotton. It captures impurities like crazy.
Got my subtank mini today...definitely going to have to go from 12 to 6 on the nic! This thing is chucking the vapor and sucking the juice. 0.5 at 25.5w. Tried it at 27w and 30w and had to sit down before I fell down! Mercy. It's going to be great when I get the right nic level. Flavor is right up there with the Aqua2.
Thankfully I DIY my own juice so 30 ML runs me about $4. I couldn't afford to do some of the high end commercial juices the way this thing is drinkin' it.
Thankfully I DIY my own juice so 30 ML runs me about $4. I couldn't afford to do some of the high end commercial juices the way this thing is drinkin' it.
You're welcome dk, I have no clue which is which. The original Mini grommet was tan. So was mine apparently. Both the sub red and the tan are unblemished from what I can see after use. Only cause for their overheating would be hot leads. Then again I have to see more wire as I think the leads may be non-resistance wire.
Bad flavor was problem for me with the Mini which likely was residual lubricant. Think I posted on that here. It cleared after a thorough cleaning. No way to be sure for me or conclude anything as I'm one user, with one grommet. My impression from the number of people reporting the bad flavor issues is that this is what PB may have actually run into. He did not get into any physical examination of the insulator on cam which might have been the smoking gun here.
Just hope Kanger puts out replacements of all the types of silicone they're releasing so we can make our own decisions. So far I'm fairly pleased with the red variety but I'll have to see how well it works for it's other important purpose…terminating wire. Maybe the tan I got is the replacement and its firmer. It will be important to those rebuilding.
Just a few considerations.
Good luck.
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Ha, you're talking about the PEEK insulator on the RBA of the mini... the "brownish" one is the new updated one and is not going to taste like monkey ........ see the link below from Phil's site that updates on the subject...
Taste Your Juice | KANGER SUBTANK INSULATOR CLARIFICATION
Cheers..
Sorry, failed to pick up on that part of an earlier post.
Yep, you'll go through more juice. Wanna drive faster? Expect to go through more rubber. You're lowering the resistance, increasing the potential for power with a massive 6mm thick wire coil packed with a high-flow directional cotton fiber. You super-charged it and just put the pedal to the metal on the 454.
With more vapor comes great responsibility.
Good luck M.
p.s. I'm still holding on to the Mega. I'm a combination mouth-to-lung and lung draw. Depends on the juice, power levels, situation...but if you're predominantly MTL, the Mega may actually be a better combination of flavor/vapor. You can optimize both vapor and flavor on the Mega, or PT. Plenty of demo's where I've shown just that with t.m.c's and Nextel ceramic wicking. Too early to tell for the Sub/Mini where it's heart lives. All the Kanger versions stay in my inventory as there are days and circumstances where say a Mini PT on a kicked Magneto work just fine for me (like the movies) vs of a more compact 4nine+Helios @ .27Ω. Yesterday a pair of Mega's with PT3 heads did the job just dandy for the SB. So you bring up a good point how much juice do you want to consume???
yes reggz that's it, I already saw that one and it looks like this.
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