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MacTechVpr

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Hmm, was it the other kanger coils that were made in the coiling machines that spewed out ~700.000 coils a day? And when you mention it, yes they were hand assembled, so i guess that's where it gets a little wonky and the variance of resistance come into play. I'm happily building my own coils though.

I can only imagine what might happen to a pile of coils spewed out at the rate of 700 thou a day.

:D

The OCC coils don't appear that distinctively symmetrical. The RBA stock coils are definitely machine formed.

Glad you're rebuilding from the jump. Will only get better with time.

Congrats and good luck.

:)
 

cigatron

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I can only imagine what might happen to a pile of coils spewed out at the rate of 700 thou a day.

:D

The OCC coils don't appear that distinctively symmetrical. The RBA stock coils are definitely machine formed.

Glad you're rebuilding from the jump. Will only get better with time.

Congrats and good luck.

:)


The coil winding machine shown in the vid tensions the wick between two clamping chucks and spins the wick while feeding the wire.

Hey Mac, they're winding with tension and turning the tool, not the wire!!!! Roflmao......
 
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NFRs2000NYC

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Nov 29, 2014
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Recieved my own subtank mini today from vapordna. Unhappy to see the RBA section has the clear insulator. Not too concerned as I don't plan to build too low on it, but I will definitely be asking them if they know the differences.

Anyway, here it is sitting on my DIY 110w box (TDK Lambda dc/dc converter). I had to change out the drip tip as the stock one got hot hot hot after a few hits. The one on it now is a friction fit wide bore delrin tip with copper sleeve (ebay special).

image1.jpg


cheers.

You WANT the clear insulator. It's the white one you don't want.
 

DEAc23

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I posted this in a couple of other threads, but I figured there would be more people interested in hearing about it here. It looks like Kanger is coming out with different colored SubTank o-rings, here is a picture they posted on Facebook:

SubTank Colors.jpg

From what I could find they are supposed to be available soon, and apparently they will be shipping out the SubTanks with black o-rings from now on (either already installed or as spares in the box, I'm not sure).
 

shreduhsoreus

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From what I could find they are supposed to be available soon, and apparently they will be shipping out the SubTanks with black o-rings from now on (either already installed or as spares in the box, I'm not sure).

In the box, mine had black as the spares and I put them on immediately. Looks pretty sick with my black MVP 3 :D
 

pinkie1205

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I just got my subtank and I'm discouraged. I primed the coil and im already getting burnt hits after about an hour of usage. I'm vaping at 20w with airflow open, using the stock .5 coil on an istick 50 using 20w.
It seems like it's hit or miss. I can see the bubbles forming from the juice channels. I'm using 60vg juice. I have tried taking primer puffs. No gurgling, but a bit of popping.
20W is ok but I really want to go higher. I'm doing small lung hits. Any ideas? I really really want this set up to work. I've spent way too much money on gear. I DO rebuild my coils but I like to use the stock first so I don't waste them. I'm at work so I can't rebuild at the moment.
 

cigatron

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I just got my subtank and I'm discouraged. I primed the coil and im already getting burnt hits after about an hour of usage. I'm vaping at 20w with airflow open, using the stock .5 coil on an istick 50 using 20w.
It seems like it's hit or miss. I can see the bubbles forming from the juice channels. I'm using 60vg juice. I have tried taking primer puffs. No gurgling, but a bit of popping.
20W is ok but I really want to go higher. I'm doing small lung hits. Any ideas? I really really want this set up to work. I've spent way too much money on gear. I DO rebuild my coils but I like to use the stock first so I don't waste them. I'm at work so I can't rebuild at the moment.

Try the "two hole" airflow setting. It will cause more juice to flow from the tank than the large slot. Also, you might want to try the 1.2ohm coil...it has better reviews.
 
Reduce the amount of cotton in your build. I had the same problem on my vaporshark rdna40. Make sure the cotton can still move pretty freely when you're building it out.

Anyone using nickel coils in RBA notice excessive popping? I have built a few Ni coils and it seems every one I've done pops throughout the draw. The build is a 28g 8wrap 2.5mmID spaced .11Ω coil. It gets pretty irritating because it will usually send juice out the drip tip when it pops.

I have also built more than a few kanthal coils, basically the same build (26g 6wrap 2.5mmID .8Ω spaced) and they are nice and smooth, no popping. Both are used on my rDNA40's.

I would venture to guess it has something to do with the power fluctuation while in "temperature protection" mode while using the nickel. Just wondering if is just me or if others have noticed it as well.

Edit: Both have been in the ST mini. Never really noticed with my Lemo's, but that may just be due to design differences.
 

MacTechVpr

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The coil winding machine shown in the vid tensions the wick between two clamping chucks and spins the wick while feeding the wire.

Hey Mac, they're winding with tension and turning the tool, not the wire!!!! Roflmao......

Get a grip on that nervous laughter cig. It's unbecoming.

There's a difference between pulling and squeezing.

:D

Good luck.
 

pinkie1205

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Try the "two hole" airflow setting. It will cause more juice to flow from the tank than the large slot. Also, you might want to try the 1.2ohm coil...it has better reviews.

It's getting better now, even at 30w. Maybe I just had to get the juice worked through there more :). Thanks for the tips!!


Sent By Owl
 
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