KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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D, as I've written about extensively on the Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! very directional tight fiber wicks like high quality long fiber cotton (ex. KGD) and synthetics like Nextel require adequate deflection (compression) for good flow. Think garden hose spout. That means a very good match dimensionally, just the right amount of tightness for the flow required. That also means a good symmetry of the coil to match those needs. And a fairly good understanding of what the tank requires. Consider the dimensions and abundance of wicking of the factory coils.
Too tight and you inhibit flow reducing efficiency perhaps overheating your coil so this too can cause dry hits even with adequate flow. Too loose, again the same. Irregular or eccentric, again you go too hot in one segment insufficient in others. Guess what? Flooding. And perhaps dry hits.
Any coil will work in an atomizer. But we've asked for better performance for years. Now since the advent of the microcoil we're getting it in spades. The dependability we're expecting to accompany these improvements requires us to find what best suits the device (with our juice) and try to put in as clean a build as possible for it. The better our tanks get, the tighter the specifications, the more particular we must become in meeting those requirements.
That means a proper attention to electrical principle and efficiency. The days of the loose eccentric open wind with little attention to the electrical result will soon be a thing of the past.
We have a choice. We spend a little time to try getting the basics in first and we'll benefit the rest of our vaping days. We don't and it will inevitably be done for us. It's coming. The choice comes down to whether we wish to retain some control of our own vaping experience or have others determine those alternatives.
Wish you all good luck.
p.s. Your flavor loss D, may have been due to a simple issue. Vacuum pressure which can build fast if you vape a tank hard. Seems to be pretty common in this tight design. A slight dry puff into the tank can help restore it and force a release of flow to the wick by reducing the vacuum. I say, when in doubt, replace the air cleaner before you drop the engine.
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Thx. Haven't gotten' to it but the tanks and spares just in. Don't wanna break down the existing runs. Frankly all workin' too good. Better than expected. I thought I'd mess somethin' up for sure at least a few weeks. And yeah, cotton wicking in a tank being one of them.
We all do it seems, lol, have our own unique problems. I'm sitting here listening to all the woes these poor peeps havin'. Goodness we're lucky these days. I started with the carto, genny and vivi. No that was a shorting, dry, wet hittin' vape (tasted like wet sneakers as ya got it to boot).
Start with a coil that works in most anything. Don't care what it is as long as you got good electrical symmetry and the wicking will follow. The best we had was a CISCO and that was an eccentric nano hidden from us like magic. Maybe some of us couldn't stand by and watch that. I only gave DP the nod on channel expansion as I know the convo would turn to high-density wicking. This tank supports massive wicking. Have you run across any juice channel variations cig? I haven't.
Already this thread is headed into the stratosphere of rebuilding and maybe newcomers don't realize it could get reclassified. Then gone this opportunity to appeal to new vapers through this thread in "New Posts". The thread's title is excellent and very beneficial to those first hitting ECF. Trying to keep it as light as possible and OT. Hoping the mods will be patient with us all as this device is both an excellent beginner device and a rebuildable. Especially these days when newcomers start out with 100W var box mods.
<shrug>
Good luck all.
MacTech,
When I expanded my channels, it was very slight, and only where the channel meets the deck. Very little change. I think my main problem was that my wicking was a bit thin and too long (Kfun fold over style). Now that I trim it just flush with the deck, increased the volume and made it as fluffy as a fresh washed puppy, I have had no wicking problems. Twisted 28, 0.6 @ 25.5 - 31w. MTL or DL no problem. Warm but not hot. 70vg. I'm having a grand ole time. Working the Delta2 (with rba) also and find it very similar. I vape a tank off one, then switch to the other for a tank.
Same coil and juice, the Delta2 wants more watts. It produces just slightly more cloud even at equal wattage, and flavor is fairly equal...but different. Probably due to the watt/airflow difference. Bottom line...consistency. No surprises, just good vape pleasure, dependable like two old friends.
When I expanded my channels, it was very slight, and only where the channel meets the deck. Very little change. I think my main problem was that my wicking was a bit thin and too long (Kfun fold over style). Now that I trim it just flush with the deck, increased the volume and made it as fluffy as a fresh washed puppy, I have had no wicking problems. Twisted 28, 0.6 @ 25.5 - 31w. MTL or DL no problem. Warm but not hot. 70vg. I'm having a grand ole time. Working the Delta2 (with rba) also and find it very similar. I vape a tank off one, then switch to the other for a tank.
Same coil and juice, the Delta2 wants more watts. It produces just slightly more cloud even at equal wattage, and flavor is fairly equal...but different. Probably due to the watt/airflow difference. Bottom line...consistency. No surprises, just good vape pleasure, dependable like two old friends.
All I can say is for a newb like myself; I am finding that with a solid (build) on this SubTank mini RBA it flat out rocks! So close to a dripper's flavor, nice dense vapor, I'm floored by this thing! I wont be using the OCC's for a while!
It isn't that hard for a newb to use tension when winding a coil. Just a small investment in a few inexpensive additions to what most coil builders already have. The benefits are all there; by taking your time and trying to build the best, tightest, most symmetrical coil you can... one that electrically heats evenly from the middle out... You can get a fantastic vape from this atty and extend the fun and educational side of vaping.
But that's only half the job, the wick and space for a wick on this small deck are such that a lil too much-- is a lot too much. It's not as forgiving as an RDA for wicking I have found. Trimming while dry and test fitting the cotton (I like KGD) is crucial for this tiny RBA deck. The wet cotton should drape from, and "flow" evenly from the coil, do not bend and cram every bit in. I too thought the juice holes in the deck were going to be too small, and I use 80-100% VG! As long as my wicking is right, I have had ZERO issues with dry hits. I am a bit .... and meticulous with stuff like this..Venturing into super sub ohm land with this RBA would only exacerbate any wicking issues, and make them stand out like a sore thumb.
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right the first time!
Or my favorite from Henry Ford:
It isn't that hard for a newb to use tension when winding a coil. Just a small investment in a few inexpensive additions to what most coil builders already have. The benefits are all there; by taking your time and trying to build the best, tightest, most symmetrical coil you can... one that electrically heats evenly from the middle out... You can get a fantastic vape from this atty and extend the fun and educational side of vaping.
But that's only half the job, the wick and space for a wick on this small deck are such that a lil too much-- is a lot too much. It's not as forgiving as an RDA for wicking I have found. Trimming while dry and test fitting the cotton (I like KGD) is crucial for this tiny RBA deck. The wet cotton should drape from, and "flow" evenly from the coil, do not bend and cram every bit in. I too thought the juice holes in the deck were going to be too small, and I use 80-100% VG! As long as my wicking is right, I have had ZERO issues with dry hits. I am a bit .... and meticulous with stuff like this..Venturing into super sub ohm land with this RBA would only exacerbate any wicking issues, and make them stand out like a sore thumb.
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right the first time!
Or my favorite from Henry Ford:
Great quote!
Gentlemen, that's the goal. Glad to see you guys with a tad more tech knowledge get in there and put the tension through it's paces. My goal with this whole thing has been to get peep's to see that there are other tools and techniques that can get us where we need to go and not just one way of winding things. All these tools have their benefits. Some are mechanical approaches; some we use for other purposes and are simply great aids here…like the common clamp.
I agree! — If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right the first time!
Thanks for the feedback. Always a pleasure to hear more folks gettin' their vape on.
Good luck.
Gentlemen, that's the goal. Glad to see you guys with a tad more tech knowledge get in there and put the tension through it's paces. My goal with this whole thing has been to get peep's to see that there are other tools and techniques that can get us where we need to go and not just one way of winding things. All these tools have their benefits. Some are mechanical approaches; some we use for other purposes and are simply great aids here…like the common clamp.
I agree! — If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right the first time!
Thanks for the feedback. Always a pleasure to hear more folks gettin' their vape on.
Good luck.
I had the installed wire coil that came with the Kanger Mini re-build deck .
The guy at the store did "roll the cotton down some just to get it through the coil" and i believe they use a Japanese cotton.
My juice is 70vg/30pg.
Here is top. one side and other side. Taken this close it looks like it has a good juice channel.
After only two days how does the coil look?
I checked the wick as it is wet and it's not very tight !!
Joey
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I keep reading all this great info about tension winding and I think I'll be trying that here in the near future. As far as people having wicking issues, just hang in there and keep trying til you get it right. I was having buyer's remorse until I finally got my wicking right. I use max VG too so this was really a big accomplishment for me lol. When I get above 24 W I do get borderline dry hits but I'm fine at 22 W with all the different flavors I've used. Good luck, all! I find dripping annoying now ever since I bought this tank!
Hi all hope you can help. Got my first sub mini and love it. Bought a 2nd one and have a problem with the rebuildable atty. it does not seem to connect with the new tank base, and I get a no atty error (istick 30). If I put the atty in the base of my 1st sub mini it works, and if I put the rebuildable atty from the 1st tank in the base of the new tank I get the same no atty error. Although the prebuild attys work in the new base. Anyway, it appears that the base on the new tank is the problem and the rebuildable attys are just not contacting the pin in the base. Thought I would throw it out there if you've heard of this problem, and if there is a fix before taking it back to the B&M.
Thanks
Thanks
I had the installed wire coil that came with the Kanger Mini re-build deck .
The guy at the store did "roll the cotton down some just to get it through the coil" and i believe they use a Japanese cotton.
My juice is 70vg/30pg.
Here is top. one side and other side. Taken this close it looks like it has a good juice channel.
View attachment 416781
View attachment 416782
View attachment 416783
After only two days how does the coil look?
I checked the wick as it is wet and it's not very tight !!
Joey
Joey it looks much better wicked this time! How's she working?
Although I wouldn't rely on the guy at the store to wick it. Did you buy some of that cotton? The Japanese cotton comes in a flat sheet and all the strands of cotton run in the same direction, get a small package and it'll last a few months for newbs like us. I'm 2/3rd of the way through my 6 week old bag of it. It really is easy to wick these coils. And the cotton isn't expansive if you foul one up. Since you're using the stock Kanger coil, we can give you any kudos there. Get some wick and wire and spend some time playing around with wrapping some coils. It's fun and challenging!
FYI - I inquired to KangerTech to see if they have spare build decks for sale for the STMini. I see the need to have a few spares ready to switch out easily, and for tinkering with new builds. They will have them available for sale in 2-3 weeks. Here's their response:
Good news (probably) to many of us here!
Good news (probably) to many of us here!
Been following this thread while waiting on my STmini and Nano, i like to be ready when they arrive. Yesterday i watched a Rip Trippers vid, and he introduced a wicking method that instantly reminded me of the STmini dense wicking style you all have been recommending. The pancake wicking method, he called it, relies on getting the wick dense and tight through the coil, and then cutting the tails to 3mm or 4mm or 5mm from the end turns of the coil depending on your VG/PG ratio (80VG, 70VG, 60VG respectively). He used the Delta 2 RBA in his vid, but said this could be used with any tank. I thought this might help a few peeps around here suffering from dry hits and small juice channels with high VG juices. It's only an 8 minutes vid so please watch it as i can't explain everything he did here.
It isn't working Darryl ! It worked in the store, but I kept getting dry hits when i got home. I need to start again. I just gave up for the night and put in the stock 1.2 ohm coil. Vaped on that all night. I sure am not buying cotton at this point. I picked up a 5 pack of 1.2 ohm OCC coils and some juice yesterday.
To tell the truth, i feel like just packing the rebuild deck away and just use the OCC coils. I just want to vape and not get dry hits and frustration. The point of this is to keep off cigarettes and be satisfied.
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I'm not sure how this works? It's not on the deck? Go to 5:19 of video to see his pancake wick....
Simple solution for that dog…pin vise and drill bit. Works every time. Same goes for the juice channels. Just be prepared for some flooding if your coil's efficient ('case you've overdone it). Handy tool. Multi-faceted.
Good luck.
that why i have 2 stmini's, but lol theyre now both in rba mode, a 1.3 &0.5ohm, imo theyre better than the occ coilsIt isn't working Darryl ! It worked in the store, but I kept getting dry hits when i got home. I need to start again. I just gave up for the night and put in the stock 1.2 ohm coil. Vaped on that all night. I sure am not buying cotton at this point. I picked up a 5 pack of 1.2 ohm OCC coils and some juice yesterday.
To tell the truth, i feel like just packing the rebuild deck away and just use the OCC coils. I just want to vape and not get dry hits and frustration. The point of this is to keep off cigarettes and be satisfied.
Sorry to hear that JB, meanwhile I find I don't really care for the vapor density of the OCCs, they work well but the RBA is really shining with my 3x 30awg drill twisted 6 wraps with a 2.8mm id @ 0.9 ohms.. Just really good
I want more RBA sections YAY!
I use very high VG juice in most instances and very productive coils. That (Rip's) wick would dry out inside of two or three hard pulls with that build in a Subtank. Pancaked up against the end turns like that it doesn't even appear to touch the deck or housing.
How is the juice supposed to get to the wick material? Splatter?
You don't want to press the wicks in against channels so much or tightly that you damn the juice holes. True.
You need to insert enough material and tightly enough to match the flow of power being applied. Less is more if less power is applied. The converse is also true. Good coils love wick media and hug it like a good friend. How much of a hug is too much? If it can't breathe. Or, you'll flood, poss go hot and sour the vape.
There needs to be enough surplus wick at the coil ends that the juiced weight of the material does not expose the top of coil turns (gravity sag). Particularly the end turns are susceptible. Or, you'll go hot and sour the vape.
Tuck wick ends out of the way as needed for housing to clear on installation. Reposition to deck lightly as needed.
Do this and you're golden.
Oh, and yeah, make it pouffy!
Good luck all.
p.s. I revise my opinion that Rip T reads the mail here.
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