Kayfun 3.1 Coil Build -- You Say It's Easy?

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The iWhore

Full Member
Aug 3, 2014
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Houston, TX
I have two kayfun clones. Some of them have the holes to feed the coil tails through, some do not. I made sure to buy the ones with the holes. I have had the screws come loose on occasion, but not often. Normally it's when I haven't tightened them enough to begin with.

So generally what I do is to first build my coil. Once I install the coil and tighten the screws, I dry burn with no wick (of course), then tighten to get them glowing from the center out, and to situate it where I want it. Once I am finished with that, I tighten the screws again.

It is also a possibility that you are over tightening them. Sometimes that will snap the tail and it will move around, causing an ohm fluctuation.
 

tchavei

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Jul 15, 2014
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Funny I came across this thread now as I just saw a video about a Kayfun rebuild and, as ALL the other I've seen, the builder screwed on the coil legs the wrong way i.e. he wrapped the leg counter clockwise while tightening the screw clockwise. I immediately remembered my 6th grade when my electronics/electricity teacher slapped my hand because I was tightening a wire on a post with a lamp and I had put the wire counterclockwise. I will never forget that day lol.

Anyway, thats 90% of the secret nobody wants you to know about... you need to put those legs clockwise so when you tighten the screws, the leg gets "sucked" in and tightens down instead of being pushed away.

Anyway, don't give up. Its so kewl making coils and rebuilding attys... almost as good as vaping :D

Regards
Tony
 

Susaz

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Jun 8, 2009
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The only weird thing that happens to me - and so far only to me - is when I refill it I get all kinds of dry hits. I think I have just the KFL? So the thing is empty or almost empty and I fill it like I'm supposed to - I unscrew the little screw on the bottom, I fill it up (same juice) and then I put the screw back in and BAM dry hit after dry hit.

I have to take it all apart and start over. This makes no sense seeing as it works perfectly with the 1st fill. So I have learned when the tank is empty to basically take off the top cap and put it back on then fill it and this doesn't happen -- I don't get it???

Sort of like that is happening to me too... Maybe refilling sooner will get rid of the problem, don't wait until it gets too low. To prime it, put a finger over the air slot and take big pulls... a couple should fix the problem.
 

NealBJr

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Jul 27, 2013
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Been vaping for about 3 years . . . all you read on this board is that RBAs and RDAs are the bomb -- the KAYFUN IS GREAT GET ONE -- yada yada yada yada . . .
For the 5th or 6th time now, ive been UNSUCCESSFULLY trying to build coils for this useless piece of equipment that I have had for over a year now. No matter the gauge, the wires come lose from the screws . . . resistance fluctuates . . . followed ALL tutorials recommended on here BOTH VIDEOS and ILLUSTRATED TO THE "T". . .

I finally threw the thing across the room . . . I'm done . . . either there is something "elite" vapers don't want you to know or they want you to fail . ..

If you guys thinks its "so easy," you come pick up the pieces of this useless expensive garbage and its yours . . .

I M P O S S I B L E! ! ! !


Lol.. No, I'm not laughing at you, I'm lauging at myself. I had a similar experience with an Aqua atomizer, and posted a similar response. I didn't throw mine across the room, I threw mine across the back yard. :) luckily I looked for it the next day and found it. Mine not only had a problem with the wires comming loose, but the Aqua is a dual coil, so imagine trying to fiddle with TWO coils at one time.... UGH... been there, and I have definatley felt your frustration.

Now, What I did to get it running, is first, try coiling around a round toothpick. The reason I say a toothpick, is so you can just keep it wound around it, and the toothpick weighs next to nothing. Coil leads go in opposite direction after coiled and make sure your coil leads are long enough to handle.. yes, it's wasteful, but until you get the hang of it, extra grabbing room helps a lot. make sure the coil is pinched as close together as possible. With the coil above the leads, drop the coil down to where the leads should connect to the screws, then wrap it ALL THE WAY AROUND the screw.. that's right... 360 degrees. Pull it tight as you're screwing it in so the coil is as close to the airhole as possible. Do the same for the other side. Keep that toothpick in the whole time you're screwing it in. When it's all screwed in, tug lightly on the toothpick to check to see if the leads come loose.If not, you can snip the extra off and pull out the toothpick. If it comes loose, you can re-tighten it. If you're still having a problem, check the screws... sometimes they may have a tiny piece of metal on the bottom of the screw head, and it'll make trapping a coil impossible.. you might need to get either different screws, or buy a tiny washer to make the bottom of the screw flat.

Definately give it another shot, it is worth it. If you cant get it after trying my suggestion, Then just say it's the wrong month for a Kayfun, shelf it, and get back to it a month later.
 

NealBJr

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 27, 2013
2,469
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Lawrenceville, Ga.
The only weird thing that happens to me - and so far only to me - is when I refill it I get all kinds of dry hits. I think I have just the KFL? So the thing is empty or almost empty and I fill it like I'm supposed to - I unscrew the little screw on the bottom, I fill it up (same juice) and then I put the screw back in and BAM dry hit after dry hit.

I have to take it all apart and start over. This makes no sense seeing as it works perfectly with the 1st fill. So I have learned when the tank is empty to basically take off the top cap and put it back on then fill it and this doesn't happen -- I don't get it???

Things I have learned with my KFL:

Never block the juice wells with your wick... push your wick against the side of the coil riser.
Make sure the chimney is secure on the top hole.

and, in your case, if I get a dry hit, cover the air hole with your finger and do a slight inhale unpowered. This will suck the juice up like a straw, so be carefull doing this. I can go from dry hit to flooding if I suck too hard, but it solves any dry hit problems. Another alternative, is to unscrew part of it by a half turn to one turn (depending on threading) but not enough to break the vaccume.. just enough to make it ever so slightly taller, then screw it back tight.. this will also push a tiny bit of juice up the juice wells.

Hope this helps.
 

Harleybarbie

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Nov 7, 2009
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Wonderland
The only weird thing that happens to me - and so far only to me - is when I refill it I get all kinds of dry hits. I think I have just the KFL? So the thing is empty or almost empty and I fill it like I'm supposed to - I unscrew the little screw on the bottom, I fill it up (same juice) and then I put the screw back in and BAM dry hit after dry hit.

I have to take it all apart and start over. This makes no sense seeing as it works perfectly with the 1st fill. So I have learned when the tank is empty to basically take off the top cap and put it back on then fill it and this doesn't happen -- I don't get it???


I have found if I have dry hits then I've used too much wicking material. Less is more.
When re wicking I put juice on my wick and stick it to the sides of the deck being careful not to get any wick material on the threads.
I screw the base of the chimney on the threads of the deck, add the top part of the chimney, check resistance, then take a vape on it before I screw the tank on.
I fill it without drip tip on it and my finger over the drip tip hole and fill the tank leaving a small bubble in the tank.
When I turn my kayfun upright I clean the drip tip well with a q-tip and put in my drip tip.
If it happens to gurgle or flood, I leave it on my mod, turn my mod upside down, blow through the air hole on the side while firing the mod.
It seems to help me.
Hope this helps you!
 

sahsah

Super Member
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Oct 18, 2013
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When I first started doing coils in my kayfun lite plus clones, I found those screws maddening. Then I got a vise, and now I put the base in the grips of the vise to hold it immobile while I mount the coil, and it's much easier; no more skittering away from me, or needing 5 hands. I do need to wear the magnifying visor I got at Harbor Freight, though, just to see the tiny lil things, and be able to tell that the wire is actually firmly secured.

For me the only "secrets" were being able to keep the base immobile, and being able to see it clearly. The wicking is actually far more challenging, trying to always get the "right" amount.

Andria
Seriously? You really don't need a vice, all you need is an atty stand or even a simple ohm reader, which every vaper should own regardless of it's pertinent and useful application in this scenario. So hopefully you already own an ohm reader, since that's a must own if you're getting into rebuilding atomizers (seriously, otherwise it's really not safe). I'd imagine that would work even better than a vice also, with the added bonus of not being prone towards scraping or damaging your kayfun clone's finish. Plus, it's great because once you're done wrapping your coil, it's already attached to the ohm reader to check the resistance lol just an added small little convenience, but for some reason I honestly always really enjoy that detail when ever I use this method. Good luck, I truly recommend you try to get an authentic, they're always in stock at vaperev (an extremly reputable dealer with great customer support) for under $100. Let me underscore this recommendation with the fact that I'm not one of those crazy anti-clone fundamentalists, in fact in many scenarios I'm very pro clone and would even recommend the clone over the authentic, but in the case of the kayfun I'm yet to find a clone that can compare to even 20% of a kayfun lite plus v2 ,except for the russian 91% v1. Only the version 1, the version two is absolute garbage, even after replacing the 510 pin with the v1 pin, if you don't believe me I've got two russian 91% v2's sitting in my drawer to prove it. They're such crap I've never even managed to Vape a single tank out of either of them. Uch I can't even think about it anymore, it gets me so mad/upset. It really is a modern day vaping tragedy, I'm thinking of calling the documentary "The Young and the Modless" or maybe "Ohm's Law and Order" (*i didn't create these names, I saw them on reddit. I just don't want to be one of those internet douchebags who trys to take credit for something they didn't think of). Anyways, the point is only the v1 is good, but it costs exactly as much as an authentic KFl + v2 by svoemesto, so in that situation I'd think it's definitely preferable to go authentic. The difference between a real one and like an hcigar kayfun or wtvr other clones is light years, I kid you not, got some kayfun stones I'm the drawer as well to prove it if you don't believe me lol
 

sahsah

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 18, 2013
513
230
los angeles, california, USA
So sorry your having trouble. I absolutely love my kayfun. In what area are you running into trouble? If there is anyway I can help let me know. I build coils for both me and my husband at home. If you have any questions Id be happy to help. For now, take a break and come back to the build later. It does take practice but there are some little tricks that might help. I wind my coil on a very small screwdriver shank. Then compress them against the shank of the screwdriver bit. Making a micro coil I then remove it from the shank and use a butane torch to heat the coil while it is compressed in a pair of tweazers.then I put in water to cool. When attaching to the posts sometimes I leave the coil on the screwdriver shank then wrap my leads. This keeps the coil in perfect condition when wrapping the leads. These little tricks might help you out if you try them. Final product is a very nice even coil or micro coil if I compressed and torched it.rarely any hot spots and glowing from the correct areas. Hope these tips help. Best wishes
Lol you build coils for your husband? Is this out of convenience/courtesy on his part and your part respectively, or is it a result of his inability to wick and wrap a proper coil? Honestly, I don't know why, (and please, no one take this the wrong way) but I'd feel so emasculated if my wife had to wrap my coils for me. Maybe emasculated is the wrong word, I think innefective/inadequite may be more accurate.
 

sahsah

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ECF Veteran
Oct 18, 2013
513
230
los angeles, california, USA
I'm not a big fan of the kayfun or RBAs . RDA are cheaper (for the most part) and much less of a mess. To the topic at hand, coil building is very simple if you think about it. Even a simple coil will work. Don't think to hard about it. My first coils I put together were for a protank (such a ..... compared to rebuildables). Get a medal coat hanger. (My first coils I used one) bend the hanger part straight. Rap it 4 or 5 times nice and tight and that's it. Just cchill it will be worth it. Btw to the post above. Micro coils might be a bit Much to start with.
Wait, are you joking? Are you telling her to use a coat hanger to wrap on or like in place of kanthal as your coiling material. I hope I misread (which is possible since it's 6 am and I'm half asleep) and it's not the latter. Also, as a side note, I'd recommend looking into spellcheck, I think you may find the benefits it offers too good to pass up..
 

NealBJr

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 27, 2013
2,469
3,732
Lawrenceville, Ga.
Seriously? You really don't need a vice, all you need is an atty stand or even a simple ohm reader, which every vaper should own regardless of it's pertinent and useful application in this scenario. So hopefully you already own an ohm reader, since that's a must own if you're getting into rebuilding atomizers (seriously, otherwise it's really not safe). I'd imagine that would work even better than a vice also, with the added bonus of not being prone towards scraping or damaging your kayfun clone's finish. Plus, it's great because once you're done wrapping your coil, it's already attached to the ohm reader to check the resistance lol just an added small little convenience, but for some reason I honestly always really enjoy that detail when ever I use this method. Good luck, I truly recommend you try to get an authentic, they're always in stock at vaperev (an extremly reputable dealer with great customer support) for under $100. Let me underscore this recommendation with the fact that I'm not one of those crazy anti-clone fundamentalists, in fact in many scenarios I'm very pro clone and would even recommend the clone over the authentic, but in the case of the kayfun I'm yet to find a clone that can compare to even 20% of a kayfun lite plus v2 ,except for the russian 91% v1. Only the version 1, the version two is absolute garbage, even after replacing the 510 pin with the v1 pin, if you don't believe me I've got two russian 91% v2's sitting in my drawer to prove it. They're such crap I've never even managed to Vape a single tank out of either of them. Uch I can't even think about it anymore, it gets me so mad/upset. It really is a modern day vaping tragedy, I'm thinking of calling the documentary "The Young and the Modless" or maybe "Ohm's Law and Order" (*i didn't create these names, I saw them on reddit. I just don't want to be one of those internet douchebags who trys to take credit for something they didn't think of). Anyways, the point is only the v1 is good, but it costs exactly as much as an authentic KFl + v2 by svoemesto, so in that situation I'd think it's definitely preferable to go authentic. The difference between a real one and like an hcigar kayfun or wtvr other clones is light years, I kid you not, got some kayfun stones I'm the drawer as well to prove it if you don't believe me lol

Not everyone can manage the small parts needed when rebuilding by just using an ohm meter. That may be why some people never get into rebuilding... the parts are small. I'm not the youngest out there, and sometimes the tiny confines that some of these atomizers have make it very difficult. When you see someone wrap coils and it comes out pretty much perfect first go, then just slip it in and tighten first go.... can be frustrating. What it doesn't show is the three years he has taken to get to that part, the burns on your fingers, the countless kanthal stabs and the atomizer dents in the sheetrock from unsuccessfull builds. Some people get it first try, some people it takes practice. For those of you who can get it frist try, that's a lifesaver for you and you don't need any extra tools. But for others, things are needed to help out... and that may help others as well.

So I will answer for adrian...yes.... seriously.
 

DavidOck

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Jan 3, 2013
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Halfway to Paradise, WA
Actually, a metal coat hanger is darn close to the 2 mm ID of the PT coils referenced. If you don't have the right size screwdriver, coil jig, or anything else, it's a fine mandrel for winding. Cut it to a convenient length, maybe bend a loop on one end for grip. Wrap. Slide the coil off to torch and compress, if you like. Leave it on (or slide it back on) for ease of attaching to the posts.
 

sahsah

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 18, 2013
513
230
los angeles, california, USA
Hey RYB,

I had a similar problem with the Kayfun 3.1 tanks. I bought three of them made by HCigar, and couldn't get any one of them to work. I made perfect coils and kept getting a short with each one. I also followed several tutorial videos to the "T", to no avail. I wasted a lot of time trying to get them to work. I'm not sure what the problem was.

On the other hand, that's not the story with the Kayfun Lite Plus RBAs made by EhPro. I own seven of those in different colors and versions. I have an original version one, three version ones with a larger diameter airhole, and three version twos with dual airholes. All seven have been easy for me to build, and I haven't had a problem with any of them, including times when using 24 gauge wire! Although, I recommend using 28 guage wire if you want it to be easier. I find the version two to be best, providing a less constrictive airflow. I highly recommend trying the EhPro Kayfun Lite Plus v2.

By the way, I've put my Kayfun 3.1 parts to good use... I use the bands from the 3.1 on my KFL+ tanks in order to have striped colors. The best combination so far is the matte silver rings from the 3.1 on my blue KFL+. That really looks nice!
Ya the hcigar 3.1 clones are trash and cheaply made. Despite cleaning thoroughly several times I continued to get muted flavor, minimal vapor production, and just all around "why-the -....-did-I-buy-this"-Syndrome (especially since I already owned several authentic kayfuns and Russians)
Also, would you be so kind as to post a photo of the device you're talking about? Your description piqued my interest. Also, do you happen to know the diameter of the dual air holes? Just trying to get an idea of what the draw would be like. Have you ever used authentic kayfuns to form a basis for comparison? Lastly, have they made the juice ducts deeper also or just gave it more airflow? Thanks a lot for any info and or pics you can provide, I look forward to your response. Vape long and prosper
 

sahsah

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 18, 2013
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los angeles, california, USA
The direction you lay your coil could be an issue....wrapping the legs so that the curl goes in the direction of the screw helped.....clockwise

Well, clockwise if the screw you're wrapping is on the right, but if you're wrap with the screw on the left then counter clockwise would be correct and in line with what you're saying, if I'm not mistaken. Good luck everyone starting out, stick with it, trust me, you'll be very happy you did once you get the hang of it. I promise once you've wrapped it correctly three times, it'll be a breeze for you from then on and you'll barely have to think about it while setting her up.
Keep on vaping all you cloud-chasing cowboys (and cowgirls) =]
 
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