Kayfun 3.1 Coil Build -- You Say It's Easy?

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v1k1ng1001

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Some of us are just born to tinker :p

Ya but I'm not. I teach philosophy for a living. I don't touch a tool unless it's absolutely necessary, and even then I usually make things worse.

That's kind of my point though. If someone mechanically and electronically inept such as myself can figure it out in 20 minutes it's hard for me to understand someone becoming frustrated given a year's worth of trial and error.
 

USMCotaku

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Well, clockwise if the screw you're wrapping is on the right, but if you're wrap with the screw on the left then counter clockwise would be correct and in line with what you're saying, if I'm not mistaken. Good luck everyone starting out, stick with it, trust me, you'll be very happy you did once you get the hang of it. I promise once you've wrapped it correctly three times, it'll be a breeze for you from then on and you'll barely have to think about it while setting her up.

Keep on vaping all you cloud-chasing cowboys (and cowgirls) =]


that's not right. Whether you go clockwise or counter clockwise both screws will have the same direction of wrap
 

tchavei

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but in the case of the kayfun I'm yet to find a clone that can compare to even 20% of a kayfun lite plus v2 ,except for the russian 91% v1.

I don't own an authentic, heck my clone didn't arrived yet but stating that an authentic is five times better than any clone is rather bold no? Especially when we have multiple reports from other authentic owners that some clones come pretty close and I remember even one stating that his clone was better than his authentic.

I fully agree that quality wise and read that as finish, material quality and fit the authentic should be better because of cost alone but quality in vaping? Maybe but hardly 5x

My two cents
Tony
 

rusirius

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The only weird thing that happens to me - and so far only to me - is when I refill it I get all kinds of dry hits. I think I have just the KFL? So the thing is empty or almost empty and I fill it like I'm supposed to - I unscrew the little screw on the bottom, I fill it up (same juice) and then I put the screw back in and BAM dry hit after dry hit.

I have to take it all apart and start over. This makes no sense seeing as it works perfectly with the 1st fill. So I have learned when the tank is empty to basically take off the top cap and put it back on then fill it and this doesn't happen -- I don't get it???

I've helped a few friends with their kfl's in the past having the exact same problem... In almost all those cases it came down to two issues...

A) They were overfilling... Your kayfun works on negative pressure... In order to do that correctly it needs a pocket of air that expands when you draw on it... If you fill it too much, there isn't enough air to expand... If you have the clear window in it when you fill, only fill up to the top of the window... Not above... More than that and there just isn't enough expansion to feed the wicks properly...

B) They were stuffing their wicks in or on the juice channels... I can't say this enough... Do NOT get the wick near those channels... For some reason I think people feel like if they don't "block" those channels the kayfun will flood... It won't... it's the negative pressure that ensures that.. And in many cases what I've found is that people who had this problem had terrible vapor production in the first place... It was just that it got much much worse after the refilled, usually because there wasn't enough pocket of air to make up for the poor wicking in the first place. Remember, when you draw on the kayfun it is SUPPOSED to suck some of the juice through those channels... The pocket of air expands and lets some juice in... Now if you're blocking those channels, and you have that nice unblocked hole under the coil, how much vacuum do you think you get? None... and therefore almost no juice gets to your wick...

Generally speaking after getting others to follow this advice they start making plumes of vapor and couldn't be happier... So give it a try...

Just for reference, here's a pic I snapped last weekend when rebuilding a kfl... Notice how the wick lays on the deck but isn't anywhere near the channel... When you put the bottom of the chimney on you should be able to look straight down and see your juice channels completely clear and unblocked.

2bc36dac1a2a3d8db97b6b2a374e827c.jpg
 

Griff.J

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I have a Russian 91, Tobeco KFL Clone, and a real deal KFL+ v2. I would say each is strong in it's own regard. The Russian has superior air flow, no whistling looser draw than the rest. The Tobeco after I made some slight modifications to the fill screw (drilled the opening a little deeper, added an O-ring to the screw) is *Absolutely Leak free*, (I also drilled out the airhole to 3/32s and lined the hole with 400 mesh which takes care of the whistle issue.).. The Authentic is just plainly manufactured the best, clean smooth threads, perfect brushed finish and the new v2 top cap changes I really like.
 
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Susaz

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Some of us are just born to tinker :p

And have the time and patience. I'm an engeneer by trade and should be used to tinkering by now, but sometimes I simply don't have the patience to tinker. When I do, and devote some time to tinkering, it comes around, but thing is, that sometimes you just want to put together and go, and the KF is the acting up kind.
 

Susaz

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After reading this, I have zero sympathy. :facepalm:

It took me 20 minutes to build my first functional coil.

To me it's easier to build the NR-R-NR of the Terminators (Oddyseus clone) than the KF sometimes. The build is more straightforward, and although I'm not strong enough to finger tighten the bolts on the term, it's much easier to troubleshoot than the KF. I can build that in under 20 minutes, 3 functional coils in 45 minutes, hand spliced and all. The KF is temperamental, have a few more rebuildables and you'll understand what I mean
 
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