Kayfun Clone

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PLANofMAN

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Arrival of hcigar.... No whistle? NONE! Be careful with torque on the center post, sheered mine flush off with the base of the positive pole. Replaced the center pin insulator with a thinner insulator and all's good.

Sheared off the center post or sheared off the insulator? Your post is unclear.
 

MaxPower

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Arrival of hcigar.... No whistle? NONE! Be careful with torque on the center post, sheered mine flush off with the base of the positive pole. Replaced the center pin insulator with a thinner insulator and all's good.

Out of curiosity, what did you use to replace the insulator?
 

Strangebrew

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Out of curiosity, what did you use to replace the insulator?
The stock insulator is a very thick washer, which is installed on the center post prior to screwing into the positive post block.
From past modding, I had acquired different sizes of teflon washers from Lowe's.
 

Endor

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So, I did finally receive my FT Kayfun 3.1ES clone (see my previous post #5).

For those of you who asked if the positive post on the build deck is brass or not... I'm pretty sure it's chromed brass. Others on the FT discussion for this item have confirmed it (I have not, however).

Here's a pic.

Picture 6.jpg
 

Glenn_K

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I recently got an HCigar KF 3.1 clone via a co-op. Great vape, but after a couple days and a couple builds, the positive terminal snapped off. It turned out that the same thing happened to more than 20% of the KFs purchased through this co-op (the co-op bought nowhere near enough spares to make good on this stupidly high failure rate).

I don't have a lot of money to spend on vape gear at the moment, but because of this and some similar experiences with other devices, I've pretty much had it with clones, period.

In terms of the KF, there isn't a monumental retail price difference between some of the better KF copies and the SM KFL+ (though you'll need some patience or some luck to get one).

-- Glenn
 

JD1

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...For those of you who asked if the positive post on the build deck is brass or not... I'm pretty sure it's chromed brass. Others on the FT discussion for this item have confirmed it (I have not, however). ......

If you have a magnet handy, give it a magnet test. Brass is non magnetic and although some stainless is non magnetic, the type used for the clone probably is. You can confirm that by testing a part that is stainless to see if it's magnetic or not.

If it is plated brass, hopefully FT will make good on it, like they did the taifun.
 
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Glenn_K

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Arrival of HCigar.... No whistle? NONE! Be careful with torque on the center post, sheered mine flush off with the base of the positive pole. Replaced the center pin insulator with a thinner insulator and all's good.

Stop the bus. You're saying that the positive terminal snapped off entirely and you were able to fix it, or that it just rotated out of alignment and you pushed it back into place?

That's what was happening with my HC KF right from the start, then it twisted off entirely after a couple days (as I mentioned in the previous post, the same thing happened with more than 20% of the HC KFs bought through a recent co-op).

On the SV KF, is this terminal fixed to the center post, or does is screw onto the center post?
 

PLANofMAN

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The stock insulator is a very thick washer, which is installed on the center post prior to screwing into the positive post block.
From past modding, I had acquired different sizes of teflon washers from Lowe's.
For anyone reading this, do NOT use Teflon in your attys. The gases released by heated Teflon are poisonous.

Outgassing from heated Teflon cookware is enough to kill birds.
 

PLANofMAN

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After reading all the problems with KFL clones Tobeco, HCigar and Ehpro is it really worth getting one surely given SvoeMesto pricing for a real KFL+ it makes complete sense?

Punctuation would make that a bit more understandable, but yes, it is worth getting one. I ordered mine from FastTech and they had the manufacturer replace the brass center post and deck with stainless steel, so I'm reasonably confident that mine (and everyone else that ordered after 12/26), at least, won't be garbage. is that worth saving $100? You tell me.

If mine is a dud, I will return it and order something else.

Edit: There are a lot more people that are happy with their KFL+ clones than otherwise.
 

JD1

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I am still looking forward to getting one next week. I am sure it will arive by then since i will order it from the states. Hope it is all it is cracked up to be. I am sure i wont be disappointed.

I guess it's the air being pulled in at the base, which prewarms it some then funneled up under the coil in the small chamber. Whatever, it's a great vape. I think you'll be well pleased with it. I had to cut my nic level in half a few months back when I got my first funalikes.
 

peterforpats

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I recently got an HCigar KF 3.1 clone via a co-op. Great vape, but after a couple days and a couple builds, the positive terminal snapped off. It turned out that the same thing happened to more than 20% of the KFs purchased through this co-op (the co-op bought nowhere near enough spares to make good on this stupidly high failure rate).

I don't have a lot of money to spend on vape gear at the moment, but because of this and some similar experiences with other devices, I've pretty much had it with clones, period.

In terms of the KF, there isn't a monumental retail price difference between some of the better KF copies and the SM KFL+ (though you'll need some patience or some luck to get one).

-- Glenn

kfl+=$99
ehpro kfl+ clone=$49
i'd say 1/2 price is a big difference especially when there is absolutley no difference in vape quality(yes, i have both). snapping off terminals is not the problem with the device it's the problem with the people doing the snapping. and yes, i think a lot of people don't know what they're doing... i have the real ones(kayfuns and russians) and all the clones and have never snapped a post off anything. guess i am just lucky, huh?
 
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