Yes, except for the fill screw. Authentic Lites had a tapered screw without an o-ring, from which e-liquid could seep. If yours has an o-ring on it, it may actually be patterned after the Lite Plus anyway.
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Kayfun LITE - Part 2
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Yes, except for the fill screw. Authentic Lites had a tapered screw without an o-ring, from which e-liquid could seep. If yours has an o-ring on it, it may actually be patterned after the Lite Plus anyway.
The fill screw is tapered but also had an oring on it. Not sure where it went! So far, thankfully, it hasn't leaked without the little oring.
I think most of them do. The major changes as far as I know where limited to the base.
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I wish mine sealed well without the o-ring but, of course7it doesn't and leaks like a proverbial seive. Got to get me some new orings. Problem is that I don't need 50.
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Well that seems like overkill! Maybe I'll just order 'em and offer to share the wealth with anyone else who needs 'emThis one is the Fill Screw O Ring... $4.50 per 100.
Or I'll just hope it doesn't leak!EDITED: Well seems convenient that I posted that before seeing your reply, doesn't it?
Hi guys, I have a KFL + for 4 months now and it's excellent! I use 28 g kanthal A1, usually on a 2.5mm dril bit, 7 wraps. I now make my coils with Kuro coiler. I used to dry burn my coils before wicking. But after seeing some concerns over the web regarding metal oxides causing health problems, I gave up dry burning. I have noticed something weird: \
-I build my coil, on ohm meter it says 1.35 ohms.
-Still with the base on the ohm meter, I wick it, put the lower part of the chimney on, prime the wick, check the resistance. Still 1.35 ohms.
-I fire the base, to see everything is fine. The resistance drops then at 1 ohm!!! And stays there!
-I put the upper part of the chimney, the tank section, fill it, vape it: the resistance is 1 ohm! Not 1.3. And stays there.
This thing never happened to me until today (that is, the lowering of the resistance after firing it). Can it be so because of the lack of dryburning in the first place?
-I build my coil, on ohm meter it says 1.35 ohms.
-Still with the base on the ohm meter, I wick it, put the lower part of the chimney on, prime the wick, check the resistance. Still 1.35 ohms.
-I fire the base, to see everything is fine. The resistance drops then at 1 ohm!!! And stays there!
-I put the upper part of the chimney, the tank section, fill it, vape it: the resistance is 1 ohm! Not 1.3. And stays there.
This thing never happened to me until today (that is, the lowering of the resistance after firing it). Can it be so because of the lack of dryburning in the first place?
Have you checked for loose connections, either in your coil, your mod or other moving parts - like a center pin for example. I recently encountered a weird variation of your problem when I stuck a small piece of kanthal into the air flow control to get rid of the whistling sound. My resistance dropped from 2 ohms to 0.9. Took out the Kanthal and everything went back up to normal. Apparently there is something called " Hidden Resistance " where each time you attach something to your tank ( your chimney for example) it affects your resistance .... Don't know how it works, but that is why some veterans check their resistance several times at each step of the game - from wicking to final assembly.
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Dry burning the coil builds up a layer of oxidation that stops the current from traveling a path you don't want (between wraps instead of through them) which is why coils usually glow unevenly until they are fired/pinched a few times, and why an evenly glowing coil is a good indication that your coil will vape properly.
Without this step it's basically a crap shoot on whether the coil will give you issues with shorting from one wrap to another, unless you space your coils to give a wide enough gap between them to ensure they aren't touching anywhere. After your coil is mounted, but before wicking, you can take a small pick or flat-heat screwdriver and gently pull the coil apart to space the coils. If done carefully you can get a super even spacing going on that should stop your erratic resistance issues. (assuming the cause is slight shorts between the wraps) With your current build you could also try raking a screwdriver or pick along the coil to hopefully re-seat the wraps in a position that won't short.
The reason the resistance only changes after firing is because an ohm meter only uses a tiny amount of current passed through the coil, which isn't enough to conduct through the minor oxidation already present on the wire, but when firing the device to take a vape the current is high enough to "break" through the poorly insulated layer and jump from one wrap to another.
If you continue vaping as-is you'll probably notice an isolated area on the coil that starts getting dark and gunking at a faster rate than the rest of the coil, which is where the short is taking place. I respect your concerns as to dry burning the coil, but even without a dry burn the coil will still darken and oxidize with use, and any shorting going on between the coils has the very real potential to be "burning" the wire and release stuff that's likely worse.
There is a possibility it's due to connection issues somewhere, although that usually makes the resistance go up, not down, so I strongly suspect it's a minor short between wraps somewhere considering you haven't been dry burning before wicking.
I did the same thing with a piece of rolled-up mesh in one of my KFL's air holes
Although it was a bit more serious and fused the mesh against the center pin abit. The air-inlet on the KFL base goes directly to the center pin, and as the entire base is the ground anything conductive that touches the base and the center pin will cause a short.
I think you shorted it with a piece of resistance wire. You need to make sure that there is nothing conductive between the center post and the outside casing. The center post is the positive side and the case is the negative going to the build deck. Sticking something conductive in the air hole and accidently touching the center post will short it out.
Sent while laying around watching the boob tube.
Note to self...
8 Wraps of 24g on a Kayfun is just too damn HOT!
Nice looking coil tho...
Thanks!
The 24g is great wire to wrap as it is so stiff it stays where you put it. I am going to try the same build with some 26g when it arrives and see it that is any better.
Note to self...
8 Wraps of 24g on a Kayfun is just too damn HOT!
Yeah the ramp up time on that coil is probably what? An hour to get it hot? Hahahaha!
You'll be better off with the 26g...
Heck, you might even find 28g to be better.
That's what I use, and I find the trade off between heat up time and coil surface area to be pretty balanced at 28g. Of course, I'm using a regulated mod at 10w, 1.3 ohms...
Your mileage may vary!
Actually she came up very quickly at 35W way too little airflow and way too much heat. I have a 100' of 26g & 28g each on the way and I think a parallel 28 will live in this just nicely I usually run the Kayfun's at 15W.
I was building for the Mutation X V3 and thought I should put one in the Kayfun just to see. The Mutation has a twisted 24g in it but much more airflow.
Yes 28g around 1.3-1.6 ohm seems to be the best coil in the Kayfuns for sure. Parallel 30g is not bad either.
I was building for the Mutation X V3 and thought I should put one in the Kayfun just to see. The Mutation has a twisted 24g in it but much more airflow.
Yes 28g around 1.3-1.6 ohm seems to be the best coil in the Kayfuns for sure. Parallel 30g is not bad either.
Since patience is not one of my virtues I find it hard to wait for for 28 gauge to ramp up. I find 32 gauge more ideal for my style. It fires up almost instantly once I push the button. The heat with 32 gauge at 2.2 ohms is almost on par with 28 at 1.8 ohms - for me that is just fine.
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Wow that's a lot of wick! You know what I like about this pic? Those thumb screws are awesome! The cheap screws I have on my KFL clone suck. They're actually rounded on the bottom so I have to wrap the coil all the way around before screwing them down. Having a nice flat bottom thumb screw sounds like a great idea.Note to self...
8 Wraps of 24g on a Kayfun is just too damn HOT!
Yeah I trimmed it up after that picture.
The thumbscrews are from FatDaddy Vapes and they work great but are small for big fingers.
The deck on the Kayfun 3.1 has hole in it like the posts on a dripper, which is where that 24g is attached.
For higher gauge wires the knurled posts are excellent, perfectly flat on the bottom.
The thumbscrews are from FatDaddy Vapes and they work great but are small for big fingers.
The deck on the Kayfun 3.1 has hole in it like the posts on a dripper, which is where that 24g is attached.
For higher gauge wires the knurled posts are excellent, perfectly flat on the bottom.
I have to order a couple of rebuild kits and such from them, maybe I'll get some of those too.Yeah I trimmed it up after that picture.
The thumbscrews are from FatDaddy Vapes and they work great but are small for big fingers.
The deck on the Kayfun 3.1 has hole in it like the posts on a dripper, which is where that 24g is attached.
For higher gauge wires the knurled posts are excellent, perfectly flat on the bottom.
Sent while sitting on my busted ..... Stay off the ice if you can't skate. I can't and didn't.
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