Stubb was using his/hers in a lil mama tank.
Yeah, I half-guessed that's why they put Phiniac separate at the bottom. Good to know for sure!
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Stubb was using his/hers in a lil mama tank.
Takes about as much work to rebuild as a vivi, tiny bit more if you use NR wire in the build.
People have an initial issue with how open the juice control has to be depending on their liquid's pg/vg ratio.
It does fit in vaperfexion tanks.
Tastes better than any carto.
My killer was giving me fits for the past couple of days. For some reason my juice is gunking up the coil.....and the wick......
I also was having issues with contact ......sometimes it would fire sometimes not.....so I put my "big girl" panties on (even though my fingers hurt from fiddling with it) and opened her up to see if I had something in upside down (yes, I did it with the floating connector the other day
)
I couldn't believe my ground wire broke - don't know where it disappeared to but that was my connection issue
I have a hard time opening and closing juice control on my agr2 tank.......wish it was made a little shorter ......
I have no trouble building silica wick/coils for other atomizers - Mark-T, Phoenix BUT I'm having a hard time with the killer.
1. When crimping the beads - are the r+NR wires going in the same direction? or opposite? I tried opposite and for some reason am only getting a good crimp on 1 wire.......is there a secret to crimping properly? I worked on it so long my silica fell apart
2. Is it possible the coil is too tight which is causing my gunking up issue?
Today - before installing a new pre-made ceramic wick/coil - I took a dental pick and pulled up a little on the coils - this one doesn't look as tightly wound as the others I've installed.
I'm getting a collection of ceramics here and I need to learn how to rebuild this wick/coil soon.....
I've even thought about making an SS mesh sleeve over 1 strand of silica - think it would work? Something has to wick it up from the bottom of the cup right?
I love my killer the vapor and flavor are awesome..I just need to figure out this rebuilding/degunking thing......
I also was having issues with contact ......sometimes it would fire sometimes not.....so I put my "big girl" panties on (even though my fingers hurt from fiddling with it) and opened her up to see if I had something in upside down (yes, I did it with the floating connector the other day
) I couldn't believe my ground wire broke - don't know where it disappeared to but that was my connection issue
I have a hard time opening and closing juice control on my agr2 tank.......wish it was made a little shorter ......
I have no trouble building silica wick/coils for other atomizers - Mark-T, Phoenix BUT I'm having a hard time with the killer.
1. When crimping the beads - are the r+NR wires going in the same direction? or opposite? I tried opposite and for some reason am only getting a good crimp on 1 wire.......is there a secret to crimping properly? I worked on it so long my silica fell apart
2. Is it possible the coil is too tight which is causing my gunking up issue?
Today - before installing a new pre-made ceramic wick/coil - I took a dental pick and pulled up a little on the coils - this one doesn't look as tightly wound as the others I've installed.
I'm getting a collection of ceramics here and I need to learn how to rebuild this wick/coil soon.....
I've even thought about making an SS mesh sleeve over 1 strand of silica - think it would work? Something has to wick it up from the bottom of the cup right?
I love my killer
the vapor and flavor are awesome..I just need to figure out this rebuilding/degunking thing......1. What do you mean by "going in the same direction"? Like, the NR leg facing the same direction as the resistant leg? Best practise says they should be on the same side of the crimp with the NR leg facing away from the coil. Not that minimising the length of NR wire will make too much difference.
2. Choking the wick could lead to it being dry enough to gunk faster than a saturated wick.
SS works fantastically in the Killer, but you will need something to wick to the SS whether that be a silica or cotton hybrid SS wick or just laying a couple of strands of whatever on top of the SS or (exhaustive list of 'or's) just sandwiching some cotton fluff up to the ends of the SS (which is what I do).
2. Choking the wick could lead to it being dry enough to gunk faster than a saturated wick.
SS works fantastically in the Killer, but you will need something to wick to the SS whether that be a silica or cotton hybrid SS wick or just laying a couple of strands of whatever on top of the SS or (exhaustive list of 'or's) just sandwiching some cotton fluff up to the ends of the SS (which is what I do).
When I use crimp beads I have both r & nr wires point away from the coil, crimp and then fold back the wires over the crimp bead for a better grip. If the excess wire is too long then I just snip them shorter. Hope that helps.
1. So, the wires go into the crimp bead parallel to each other? I tried opposite sides.....that's where I ran into problems - I'd be wrapping and the NR wire would slide out of the bead......
2. Yes, choking the wick - this current premade is not as tight as the other 2 I had used......
Sandwiching cotton fluff.....? Put cotton in the bottom bring up to where the ss mesh wick is? how often do you need to re-wick?
I'm also wondering if making a hybrid wick - either with silica or cotton would permit the change of the silica/cotton - and a dry burn of the SS to clean it?
I wonder if little rubber thimbles would help me grasp the threads better...I'm getting little tiny cuts on the side of my finger
..and sometimes I find once I've open the juice control I've also slightly unthreaded my agr tank - and a slow leak starts...... anything make it easier on the agr?If you loop the wire around the bead nothing should slip either way, the more tension keeping a wire in place the better.
Re: cotton fluff sandwiching - yup, just a teeny tiny bit of cotton pad needed for this. The SS lasts as long as SS usually does. I give it a rinse and dry-burn once a week, throw it back in with new scraps of fluff and that's it 'til the next week.
Re:hybrid wick - that makes the process more of a pain, probably a total recoil (Shwattzenegger?) needed unless you're a magician or use a tiny screwdriver for a sort of Petar K method.
Silica would be the lesser of two evils in that set-up as you could light that up with a flame to sort of clean it, but the crud will build up faster unless you rinse it more than you would SS on it's own.
I prefer to have a solid SS wick that just about squeezes into the ceramic, then have another thinner strip and roll it around the middle for where the coil goes. No possiibity of a dry hit that way as the relative "length" of the wick serving the coil is about 60mm.
The way I do it sounds like more work that it is, but it's as much work as a hybrid, it just lasts longer and has less faff once built.
I get what you're saying about the threads, it's made those little cuts on me too. Magic solution - tissue paper/paper towels. Serious derp moment when I thought "what could I possibly use to maintain grip without juice and finger-grease causing slippage?".
As for unthreading the bottom cap, I just keep making sure it's screwed on tightly while I'm opening the juice control. I very rarely loosen the juice control though, I have a few drippers for when I want to switch things (which is rarer than it used to be, I'm a total tobacco-.....).
Re: cotton fluff sandwiching - yup, just a teeny tiny bit of cotton pad needed for this. The SS lasts as long as SS usually does. I give it a rinse and dry-burn once a week, throw it back in with new scraps of fluff and that's it 'til the next week.
Re:hybrid wick - that makes the process more of a pain, probably a total recoil (Shwattzenegger?) needed unless you're a magician or use a tiny screwdriver for a sort of Petar K method.
Silica would be the lesser of two evils in that set-up as you could light that up with a flame to sort of clean it, but the crud will build up faster unless you rinse it more than you would SS on it's own.
I prefer to have a solid SS wick that just about squeezes into the ceramic, then have another thinner strip and roll it around the middle for where the coil goes. No possiibity of a dry hit that way as the relative "length" of the wick serving the coil is about 60mm.
The way I do it sounds like more work that it is, but it's as much work as a hybrid, it just lasts longer and has less faff once built.
I get what you're saying about the threads, it's made those little cuts on me too. Magic solution - tissue paper/paper towels. Serious derp moment when I thought "what could I possibly use to maintain grip without juice and finger-grease causing slippage?".
As for unthreading the bottom cap, I just keep making sure it's screwed on tightly while I'm opening the juice control. I very rarely loosen the juice control though, I have a few drippers for when I want to switch things (which is rarer than it used to be, I'm a total tobacco-.....).
Will do, should be Wednesday - gonna get to this dual-coil SS Killer build I keep promising myself but I'm so Jehovahdamn lazy, especially when everything is working well. Now I have you waiting on me I kind of HAVE to do it!
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Well, I'm bummin' pretty hard right now. The replacement cup/coils and the no resistance wire I ordered about 45 minutes AFTER the Killer 705 just showed up in the mail... No Killer though...
I wonder if little rubber thimbles would help me grasp the threads better...I'm getting little tiny cuts on the side of my finger
Those rubber thimbles may work but I think they might tear. What I use sometimes is one of the round, flat, rubber jar openers. I use just the edge of the rubber on the threads. It works.
I've used it! "A round to-it"
"A round to-it" Those rubber thimbles may work but I think they might tear. What I use sometimes is one of the round, flat, rubber jar openers. I use just the edge of the rubber on the threads. It works.
It's a registered parcel......no notice?
Well, I'm bummin' pretty hard right now. The replacement cup/coils and the no resistance wire I ordered about 45 minutes AFTER the Killer 705 just showed up in the mail... No Killer though...
Well another thing you could try is getting some liquid rubber and dipping needle nose pliers in the rubber. The rubber might get chewed up after awhile and you would need to re-dip. I've also done this.
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