Not the least interested in buying a rip off of Cisco's excellent work.LOL the URL is forbidden?? Looks like someone decided they were embarrassed by their work.
Heres the site you where can buy them If you want...
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Beautiful work Cisco.... I keep trying to decide which mod to start out with, and I keep finding better ones on here!
Intresting side note - the vaprlife site doesn't have any pictures on it today..
Intresting side note - the vaprlife site doesn't have any pictures on it today..
I agree with all the thumbs up here - excellent mod.
One question/concern I've not seen addressed... I thought unprotected batts have a discharge issue if they go too low and can be damaged.
If true, how do we control that with this mod? Does the atty just stop working before that critical point?
One question/concern I've not seen addressed... I thought unprotected batts have a discharge issue if they go too low and can be damaged.
If true, how do we control that with this mod? Does the atty just stop working before that critical point?
I've been using mine for almost 2 weeks now. No problems yet.
"Dead" batteries that stop producing vapor measure about 2.6-2.8v, and recharge in about 1.5-2hrs. I think I remember reading that 2.5v is the cut off on the 10440. Could be wrong though, going from memory.
I did drill some vent holes in the battery casing last weekend...can't hurt.
Found a spec./test sheet, it appears to be a pretty rugged little battery:
http://www.batteryspace.com/productimages/aa/20060421/Spec_for_10440.pdf
"Dead" batteries that stop producing vapor measure about 2.6-2.8v, and recharge in about 1.5-2hrs. I think I remember reading that 2.5v is the cut off on the 10440. Could be wrong though, going from memory.
I did drill some vent holes in the battery casing last weekend...can't hurt.
Found a spec./test sheet, it appears to be a pretty rugged little battery:
http://www.batteryspace.com/productimages/aa/20060421/Spec_for_10440.pdf
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My understanding is yes the atty will stop working before the discharge issue is even addressed.
It appears that the Ultrafire 10440 is designed to vent out the positive terminal during a failure. Mine has 3 holes in the + end.
Since the battery is reversible in this mod I would suggest pointing the + end toward the end cap and drilling a few vent holes in the dimples.
I would also avoid "palming" this mod while in use...just my 2 dubloons.
Vape safely
Since the battery is reversible in this mod I would suggest pointing the + end toward the end cap and drilling a few vent holes in the dimples.
I would also avoid "palming" this mod while in use...just my 2 dubloons.
Vape safely
It appears that the Ultrafire 10440 is designed to vent out the positive terminal during a failure. Mine has 3 holes in the + end.
Since the battery is reversible in this mod I would suggest pointing the + end toward the end cap and drilling a few vent holes in the dimples.
I would also avoid "palming" this mod while in use...just my 2 dubloons.
Vape safely
Good call on flipping the battery Lazarus....
I am puzzled at the un-protected battery scare that has users petrified. Every E-cigar ever made from day one uses these batteries along with every SD ever sold and I have never heard of even one instance were there was a problem. The undercharge issue is moot because of vaper production drop off way before the low voltage cutoff. And even if you went below this voltage level the worst thing that would happen is the battery will be rendered useless and not be able to be re-charged. The over charging danger is easily handled by using a charger designed for LI-Ions that itself has overcharge protection. The over dis-charge issue is also moot because if your manual switch got stuck your atty would poop (opening the circuit)before the battery would over-discharge and vent. I am not saying they are 100% safe but there not plutonium sticks waiting for an atomic meltdown.
.02
Cisco...
Have you ever had a LiIon battery malfunction near you Cisc? You wouldn't take any chances if you had.
When I was in the military I had one we used for radios pop on a counter behind my head (about 4 feet away) a hot piece from the small "pop" scored the back of my noggin and I have a nice scar there still. The scar is right about where my left eye would have been if I had been facing the battery (a very real possibility).
Now I've used a lot of LiIon bats since then for a multitude of purposes without incident, but just the one time on what is considered a "small" LiIon malfunction was enough to give me pause about having one inches from my beautiful honker. I'll still use them for bats but I'll be careful about them as well.
<please insert the many "cheap military" jokes that have now popped into your head>
When I was in the military I had one we used for radios pop on a counter behind my head (about 4 feet away) a hot piece from the small "pop" scored the back of my noggin and I have a nice scar there still. The scar is right about where my left eye would have been if I had been facing the battery (a very real possibility).
Now I've used a lot of LiIon bats since then for a multitude of purposes without incident, but just the one time on what is considered a "small" LiIon malfunction was enough to give me pause about having one inches from my beautiful honker. I'll still use them for bats but I'll be careful about them as well.
<please insert the many "cheap military" jokes that have now popped into your head>
Does anyone have any suggestions about a temperamental button / switch on one of these mods? I have one that is giving me serious problems. Sometimes it engages when pressed, sometimes I have to toy with it for about 10 presses just to get it to turn on. Is there any relatively easy thing to try that you think will help?
I wouldn't say that I'm 'electronically inclined', but I can certainly give any suggestions you may have to offer a shot. I'd really appreciate any input you can offer. ;-)
Thanks!
I wouldn't say that I'm 'electronically inclined', but I can certainly give any suggestions you may have to offer a shot. I'd really appreciate any input you can offer. ;-)
Thanks!
Look inside the tube from the cap end and make sure your switch is lined up with your switch button. If you didn't loc-tite or hot glue the switch assembly it could have spun out of alignment from battery insertion and removal.Also the length of the shell is a very snug fit for the 10440's, if the battery puts to much pressure on the switch assembly it could cause it to miss fire or get sticky. If the o-ring is missing from the cap that also could put to much pressure on the switch assembly from the battery. If you didnt thread the switch/pcb assembly deep enough into the nose cone that also could leave less room for the battery. I tent to thread the switch/pcb assembly into the nose cone a little deeper or offset from the switch hole in the shell to get that little extra room for the battery. Grinding the inside of the end cap is also a way to get a little extra battery room.
hope this helps
Cisco...
The Small Piece Of Clear "Tape" That Holds The "Button" In Place WadedUp On One Of Mine Causing Exactly What You Described, Both Sticking On & Not Activating, I Ended Up Having To Discard The Piece Of Tape, Seems To Work Fine Without "Button - Tape", As Long As Button Is Properly LinedUp With The Switch ...
Cisco, Any Thoughts/Suggestions On Dealing With An Unruly Button "Tape" ???
Cisco, Any Thoughts/Suggestions On Dealing With An Unruly Button "Tape" ???
Can a standard/rechargeable AAA NiMH (nickel-metal hydride cell) be used with this?
I know it's a stupid question but I'm new in this e-cig world and just found the mod section. the advantage was that AAA NiMh are found every were and are cheaper than Lion. I was looking at the specs and maybe the nominal cell voltage 1,2V vs 3,6 is the problem. just trying to confirm that.
Is there a min/max voltage for different atomizers?
sorry for my english and thank you.
I know it's a stupid question but I'm new in this e-cig world and just found the mod section
. the advantage was that AAA NiMh are found every were and are cheaper than Lion. I was looking at the specs and maybe the nominal cell voltage 1,2V vs 3,6 is the problem. just trying to confirm that.Is there a min/max voltage for different atomizers?
sorry for my english and thank you.
the button tape seems to me to only be there to aid in the manufacture of the laser, it just holds the botton in place while the laser is assembled.
xogul , only 3.7 volt lithium 10440 will work with this mod. All current atomizer need at least 3.7 volt.
xogul , only 3.7 volt lithium 10440 will work with this mod. All current atomizer need at least 3.7 volt.
Thank you for the reply. I went to the first page and started from there and noted that the same question was already answered before but I couldn't find a 'EDIT' button to edit my previous post. Sorry.
So the advantage of this mod is to get more vapour and save on battery cost? is the life of this better then the original E-cig batteries?
yea , a 901 battery is rated at 180 mAh and these 10440 are about 350MaH ( although it says 600MaH on them ) so they should last about twice as long as a normal 901 battery. Plus these 10440 batts cost $2 each and a 901 battery costs what $15 ?
I want to thank cisco for this tutorial as he has made this mod so simple. I'm now considered a genius among my co workers, not that it takes much to impress them. I'm the the maintenance super at a country club and almost every thing I do mystifies them. This mod with a chrome 901 atty looks so sharp it's become a hit at work. I have to buy more connectors and supply the whole staff. Just finished # 6. This thing blows my janty stick away! Thanks again cisco!
Spent the morning in the garage building two almost perfect laser mods. Everything went perfect from drilling out the nose cones to the perfect size hole, re-assembled with perfect alignment, yada, yada, yada. Only one problem, they are constantly on I cannot believe that I shorted them both somehow The switchs are aligned perfectly, and did not have to use any tape on the buttons. The switches work fine. These are not my first laser mods. I made 2 others a few weeks ago, they gave me some fits building them, but they work fine.
The irony is that I thought that I had them down pat and epoxied the PCB into the nose cone...they are not going to come apart
Anybody else have a similar problem, any ideas?
I cannot believe that I shorted them both somehow The switchs are aligned perfectly, and did not have to use any tape on the buttons. The switches work fine. These are not my first laser mods. I made 2 others a few weeks ago, they gave me some fits building them, but they work fine.The irony is that I thought that I had them down pat and epoxied the PCB into the nose cone...they are not going to come apart
Anybody else have a similar problem, any ideas?
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What atty connector did you use? if you used a 510 and had to cut the pcb and shim down that could cause a short. If you cut to much of the pcb when you re-install there is a positive trace on the pcb that could come in contact with ground, Had on that did exactly that. Other then that I would say you need to take it apart and find the short. Theres not much that could go wrong, I am sure it is something very simple, only problem it requires dis-assembly....
Cisco...
Cisco...
Spent the morning in the garage building two almost perfect laser mods. Everything went perfect from drilling out the nose cones to the perfect size hole, re-assembled with perfect alignment, yada, yada, yada. Only one problem, they are constantly on
The irony is that I thought that I had them down pat and epoxied the PCB into the nose cone...they are not going to come apart
Anybody else have a similar problem, any ideas?
Check to make sure the spring has not bent to the side. this happend to me twice, i'm going to move the spring to the tail cap and just leave a drop of solder on the pos end. eve if you have secured the pcb you should be able to pull the body away and get to the spring and switch.
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