Sorry did not read close enough the spring would cause a short but not explain the constant on. you must have bypassed the switch (dripped solder on the board some how) or the switch is stuck. possible from to much heat?
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Thanks for all the responses
I took one of them apart, was able to get the nose cone out without too many problems and it was the switch. The switch still depresses with a "click", but is constantly made. I can't see how one small solder connection could fry this switch.
@ Cisco, I made one of each. On the 510 I opted to cut the atty housing instead of the PCB. So the trace lead was not touched. I'll take apart the other one today. I have an extra PBC from a failed previous attempt at this mod, so I'll try to replace the switch. Wish me luck
***EDIT*** Anybody know a stateside supplier of these lasers? I hate to wait 2 weeks plus for them. I need to regroup and try again.
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wtserg: Cisco has another thread buried somewhere for the 801, construction is exactly the same but you need to chuck it in the lathe and turn down the little lip on the top of the nosecone for the part of the atomizer that protrudes below the catch lip of the connector. If you don't have a lathe, I suspect you could probably use a dremel and just grind it down, but its not going to look nearly as pretty. If you find you can't do that, just make it for a 901 and make a 901->801 adapter so the lip of the atomizer has room and can make a solid connection.
I think the pcb may have changed on these as I just had the same problem as lazarus. I checked with my meter and all connections were closed circuit. not sure what the solution was because I desoldered all joints and resoldered. I also desoldered the connection to the led. After the the live wire to the atty was connected to the top right pin (in picture Fig 14 of Ciscos post) of the switch.
I used a 510 battery connector and had to cut both it and the threaded part on the pcb to get it to fit
Thanks to Cisco for the great mod. It really does feel and look great in your hand
I used a 510 battery connector and had to cut both it and the threaded part on the pcb to get it to fit
Thanks to Cisco for the great mod. It really does feel and look great in your hand
I have noticed on some of the newer ones that the PCB has changed a little. I would suggest testing it with a meter to make sure the connections you are making are correct. Li-ions don't like to be shorted out, they will get hot and cause damage to the laser and potentially yourself, so be safe and check your connections.
Glad everything worked for ya maygood, now put up some pics so we can all see...
Cisco...
Meh, I shouldn't post while drinking. Different circuits are different!
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Just gutted my two this morning, could not figure what was wrong.Ordered some new lasers last week, will try again. This time I will meter them out, like Cisco suggested.
Still love this mod.
Lazarus
just check that the solder point hasn't joined with the solder from the spring which would give direct power to the atty.On mine the solder from the spring was VERY close to the connection for the atty wire. There seems to be quite an overuse of solder on these boards
just check that the solder point hasn't joined with the solder from the spring which would give direct power to the atty.On mine the solder from the spring was VERY close to the connection for the atty wire. There seems to be quite an overuse of solder on these boards
I'll do an autopsy later today and check that. It sounds like that probably was the problem.
Going to get a solder sipper today at RS too. Thanks for that.
Going to get a solder sipper today at RS too. Thanks for that.
I second that!
Cisco, this rocks!!! Thanks for the how to my friend. This is exactly what I was looking for in a mod right down to the price
It feels amazingly solid too!
i tried making one of these but it didnt work just thought id check, which hole do you solder the wire from the atty into on the PCB? I'm really confused, is it the one at the bottom of the switch or the one where the resistor came out of? cheers, lee
just thought id check, which hole do you solder the wire from the atty into on the PCB? I'm really confused, is it the one at the bottom of the switch or the one where the resistor came out of? cheers, lee
That would be one of the resistor terminals. Careful not to let your solder touch the spring like I did, it will cause the atty to be constantly energized.
i tried making one of these but it didnt work
Here is a better before and after close-up of the PCB. The wire should be soldered within the red area and not have the solder "leak" out enough to touch the spring solder contact.
Cisco...
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Is there a way to replace the original PCB with a different one?
Cheers,
P.S.
Cisco........you are a man of an impeccable character, who's selflessness is without measure. Thank you. Very much.
Cheers,
P.S.
Cisco........you are a man of an impeccable character, who's selflessness is without measure. Thank you. Very much.
If it was re-designed, maybe, but your still stuck with the hole placement, If the shell was 2mm longer between the hole and the end cap it would be perfect.
Kind of like this one...
Cisco...
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