Laser Pointer mod Guide

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Kewtsquirrel

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May 21, 2009
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moddersupply.com
Figure 2-4 weeks, the Ebay guy is a hair quicker than DX/focalprice though. If you're doing 510 connectors, you need to chop them down just below where the atomizer connector bottoms out, and if you're doing 801s you'll need to turn down the lip on the nosecone. That 1mm can be a ..... too, everything fits pretty tight, and I don't know if merely chopping down the spring will do it, it's going to compress anyways.

Protected batts aren't a big deal though, a friend of mine had a flameout after he overtightened the atomizer and shorted it out w/ a PCB that had a bit of leakage due to capacitance - just point the positive at the bottom and you'll be fine, and make sure people know not to use a pair of pliers to put the damn atomizer on.
 

Cisco

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Apr 13, 2009
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Figure 2-4 weeks, the Ebay guy is a hair quicker than DX/focalprice though. If you're doing 510 connectors, you need to chop them down just below where the atomizer connector bottoms out, and if you're doing 801s you'll need to turn down the lip on the nosecone. That 1mm can be a ..... too, everything fits pretty tight, and I don't know if merely chopping down the spring will do it, it's going to compress anyways.

Protected batts aren't a big deal though, a friend of mine had a flameout after he overtightened the atomizer and shorted it out w/ a PCB that had a bit of leakage due to capacitance - just point the positive at the bottom and you'll be fine, and make sure people know not to use a pair of pliers to put the damn atomizer on.

Well said Nerf.....:)


I got the protected batteries to fit. They are more then 1mm longer so it is an issue, trying to fit them in was putting to much pressure on the spring and causing the switch to get jammed up. I needed to bore out some of the material on the bottom of the end cap. I got 1mm+ and a few other tweaks and the batteries fit in there without totally compressing the spring. The battery thickness is not a problem at all. The base of the battery end cap has 2mm+ of material left in there so boring out 1mm+ is not a problem with the right tools, but I am afrarid not everyone will have the tools needed to do this.

Cisco...
 

FizzleFisch

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Sep 20, 2009
182
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Lake Travis - Texas
Well said Nerf.....


I got the protected batteries to fit. They are more then 1mm longer so it is an issue, trying to fit them in was putting to much pressure on the spring and causing the switch to get jammed up. I needed to bore out some of the material on the bottom of the end cap. I got 1mm+ and a few other tweaks and the batteries fit in there without totally compressing the spring. The battery thickness is not a problem at all. The base of the battery end cap has 2mm+ of material left in there so boring out 1mm+ is not a problem with the right tools, but I am afrarid not everyone will have the tools needed to do this.

Cisco...

Hey thanks for those tips on gaining the extra internal length Cisco. - and yes... proper tools are the key. No worries about that here fortunately. A proper-size endmill chucked up in the tailstock of the lathe (out in the garage) will likely handle the boring of the end cap I suppose.

Nerf Quote:
"... just point the positive at the bottom and you'll be fine, and make sure people know not to use a pair of pliers to put the damn atomizer on. "

LOL! --- yeah it's always amazing to me how 'users' will invariably find the craziest ways to totally circumvent every single anti-idiot measure you've labored to incorporate into a design. :confused:

.... Oh and the battery orientation reminder is appreciated. -- In fact, I'm inclined to add even a few small vent-holes at the tail end of the body just for good measure as well.

Again fellas.. thank you both for the friendly support and encouragement you provide for the rest of us who are just cutting our teeth here with our first mod efforts.

fisch
 

Jfweeench

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Apr 25, 2009
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hey cisco,
where did all your pictures go? I was about to print this thread out to get going but doing this based on text only will only lead to heartbreak (and brain break) for me :(

Haha I agree. I was finally getting around to building this mod, and the pictures have disappeared...

To anyone considering this mod: do it. Someone on here has capitalized by selling these to my good friend who owns a kiosk in Dallas. I tried one that had the LED added to it and it's amazing. Very good looking and solid mod. If you can't tell by the video review by Igetcha69, it pounds out vapor.

These bad boys are selling at my friend's kiosk for ~$200. 8-o
 

Guitarslinger

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ECF Veteran
Oct 3, 2009
76
0
Central Illinois
Dammit-trying to get this mod put together and can't even get it disassembled, lol. For some reason the guts won't come out regardless of which way or how far I loosen/tighten the nosecone interior screw. The PCB broke in two trying to get it out, and the brass liner will not come out of the nose cone at all-certainly not as easily as it supposedly should. Anybody have any suggestions??? I'm thinking they may have even changed the design a bit-just got these like a week ago. Thanks
 

boondongle

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Aug 15, 2009
516
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Doylestown, Pa
Excellent tutorial! I finally got around to doing this, and it works great. Ran into a few problems along the way (biggest one being accidentally soldering the wire from the atomizer to the spring), but in the end, it only took a couple of hours, and most of that was spent shortening the PCB to fit a 510 atomizer. And I don't even have a drill press, just a dremel!

img0017nd.jpg


EDIT: Now I have to get a stainless 510 atomizer to complete the look.
 

K_to_the_L

Full Member
Jul 16, 2009
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EDIT: Now I have to get a stainless 510 atomizer to complete the look.

very nice work and glad to hear you were successful without the press ! ( i will be using a drill with dremel tips... since i dont own a dremel well not a good one just the rechargeable which barely works. ) you could skip getting stainless and sand paper off the paint ( with use of the drill chuck and wrapping it in something to protect it before you tighten the chuck ) like i did and its pretty good looking and easy to do. ( i just did a mouthpiece tip so far but will consider doing the atomizer next once i get the pointer done ( praying it goes right ! ) thanks for your input there isnt much out on the 510 mods ( which is what i am working with )
 

thirdeye0p3n

New Member
Oct 11, 2009
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cant wait to complete this mod. looks great. ive run into a few problems though. i broke the pcb removing it from the shell. the board came off and the soldered negative connection came loose. also the assemly will not screw into the nose cone near as far as it needs to. my questions are.. can i solder that connection to that little brass/copper plate? and how in the hell do i get a grip on the nosecone to screw the assembly into the nosecone? or is there a way i can loosen the threads so as to allow the assembly to screw in more easily... thanks in advance.
 

Guitarslinger

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Oct 3, 2009
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Central Illinois
I also had some troubles the first time I tried this mod-broke the pcb board, etc (still trying to salvage it, lol) but second one went smooth. Couple little tips-I use the black vinyl electrical tape to wrap the battery housing really well-then you can put it in a vice without scratching/damaging it-just don't crush the damned thing-you can also put some solid piece of metal inside it if you're worried about it, a large allen wrench works well. I alos found if you can cut your 510 atty connector off as cloose as possible to the center post connection, that modifying/cutting the pcb board is completely unneccessary-made the mod go that much faster, I just useed a Dremel cutting wheel and proceeded just like with the 901 mod-works great imo.
 
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