Laser Pointer mod Guide

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K_to_the_L

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Jul 16, 2009
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thanks for that additional insight guitarslinger. i actually have 2 of the battery terminals but they need more cleaning up. i had 4 originally 1 was destroyed outright during disassembly testing, another i bent a little ( from the cheap usb pass through ) all the battery ones are longer but the one from the usb passthrough is already the exact size you describe !! ( too bad i ruined it )

i got mine in the mail today ! ( hey i am pretty sure ive seen these on sale in other places ?? ) also wanted to note i did NOT create the pdf or ANY of the pictures i just reposted them ( those are all credited to the original posters !! ) thanks ( especially to cisco ) and good luck !!
 
Camel Crush

Camel Crush

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Nov 9, 2009
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Okay, I'm sort of an idiot when it comes to electrical things, but I like the looks of this, and I would very much enjoy making one. My dad, on the other hand, is a handyman with a garage full of tools, and I'm sure I could get him to help me do it. So... here we go.

I never saw mention in this thread of making this compatible with a 510. Is this extremely difficult to do? Is it just more feasible to make it for a 901?

I'm a bit confused about where you obtain the "atty connector" that you place in the top of the nose cone at the end. Do you steal this from the end of an old battery, or what? Didn't see that mentioned in the PDF, but I guess I'm an idiot and should already know... or something.

Has anyone ever put an LED on this mod? How feasible/difficult is this?
 
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Slickstick

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Nov 8, 2009
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boondongle said:
Excellent tutorial! I finally got around to doing this, and it works great. Ran into a few problems along the way (biggest one being accidentally soldering the wire from the atomizer to the spring), but in the end, it only took a couple of hours, and most of that was spent shortening the PCB to fit a 510 atomizer. And I don't even have a drill press, just a dremel!

img0017nd.jpg


EDIT: Now I have to get a stainless 510 atomizer to complete the look.
Click to expand...

Does that battery last more than 4.5 hours like the 510 mega batteries??.. sry im a noob
 
T

tdstrike

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Camel Crush said:
Okay, I'm sort of an idiot when it comes to electrical things, but I like the looks of this, and I would very much enjoy making one. My dad, on the other hand, is a handyman with a garage full of tools, and I'm sure I could get him to help me do it. So... here we go.

I never saw mention in this thread of making this compatible with a 510. Is this extremely difficult to do? Is it just more feasible to make it for a 901?

To make it a 510, you first have to grind/sand/trim the outer casing of the
atomizer connector. They're to long to fit in the nose cone.
I'm a bit confused about where you obtain the "atty connector" that you place in the top of the nose cone at the end. Do you steal this from the end of an old battery, or what? Didn't see that mentioned in the PDF, but I guess I'm an idiot and should already know... or something.y vendors

Yes, you have to either scavage one from an old battery, or buy one from one of the many vendors selling connectors.
Has anyone ever put an LED on this mod? How feasible/difficult is this?

The VP1(the version some vendors are selling) has an led in it, pretty tight fit though.
Click to expand...
good luck with it.
 
boondongle

boondongle

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VaporHead4Life said:
Does that battery last more than 4.5 hours like the 510 mega batteries??.. sry im a noob
Click to expand...

As always, that depends on your usage. A single battery lasts me from the time I leave my house until nearly the end of the work day. If I'm just sitting around the house, it'll last a couple of hours. The 510 mega battery is rated 380mAh, I believe, and my 10440s are rated at 600mAh hours, so on paper, it should last longer. Those numbers are usually pretty inaccurate, though, so you'd need to do a real world test to find out for sure. The 10440s only cost a couple of dollars each, however, while the mega battery costs around $13, so there is that.
 
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biilllyyyy

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Mar 29, 2009
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dseanor said:
HeadsUp ...
Yesterday I Received New Batch Of Pointers From DX ...
Laser Product Design Change (Electrical) From Manufacturer ...
Green Circuit Board Instead Of Blue Circuit Board ...
Electrical Connections Are Different ...
Watch/Check Your Wiring ...

Battery Cap Is Flat ...
Doesn't Have The Tittie Any More ...
Click to expand...

i just got one of the new pointers from DX, wanted to try this mod. now i am unsure where to solder the positive connection. this is my first try at any mod and was going strictly by Cisco's tuturial & pics, can one of the mod pro's please explain where to connect positive connection on the new pointers
thankyou
 
Kewtsquirrel

Kewtsquirrel

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May 21, 2009
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moddersupply.com
Your best bet, even on the old lasers, was to scrape all of the traces off of the PCBs and solder directly to the leg of the switch not connected to the spring. If you accidentally scrape the trace between the opposite leg and the spring, just run a wire to the very bottom of the spring and use solder sparingly.
 
D

dseanor

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Jun 1, 2009
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Galveston, TX
I Follow Nerf's Suggestion, Scrape All Lands Off The PCB ...
Except The Solder Points For The Switch & Spring ...

On The New Style "Green" PCB's ...
With The Spring Pointed Up & Looking At The PushButton Switch ...
Both Terminals On The LeftSide Of Switch Are Laser Battery Connection ...
Both Terminals On The Rightside Of Switch Are Atty Center Conductor ...
 
indyxlt

indyxlt

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Oct 26, 2009
124
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New England
Hey everyone. First post so here goes my cherry. Vaping about a month and a half but these 901 batteries just are the worst. Exploring all the great creative mods here and have just ordered parts for Laser Pointer. I like that it's small but also have a $4 flashlight just in case. As I mentioned these 901 batts just suck so I'll have no ill feelings destrying them for a mod. However, my question is regarding auto vs manual batts; is there any difference in the connector end of the different batteries? Is that where the "auto" switch is located?

Thanks in advance for your help and also for posting complete descriptions, pictures, vids, part #s, etc.

No clever signature yet.
 
S

smc

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Apr 14, 2009
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California
I ordered one of the laser pointers about a month ago. Today I decided to give modding a try. My plan was to mod the laser pointer from deal extreme with a 510.

Disassembly of the laser pointer went quite well. Upon removal I noticed I had the new green PCB. Cleaned all solder points for the capacitor(?). All is good at this point. Getting a 510 out of a battery case is a pain in the .... My first try was a failure (so I thought). The next time was a success.

(I did notice you can buy the 510 battery connectors for around 3 bucks a piece, but the shipping is 5. Might as well buy a battery. At least I get a switch with it.)

After looking at the battery connector it became apparent I would have to shave it down. I ended up shaving it all the way down to where it looks very close to the battery connector of a 901. I further shaved off some of the outside just below the divits/grip.

Dumb assery ahead... I solder and then string the wire from the post. However, I had not yet screwed in the PCB. Big mistake. It ended up ripping the wire from the post. I did not notice this and went ahead and assembled it. Ahhh shastic. With the PCB inside the tube I could not use a socket. you get the point. Vice grips into action. Top piece is now nicely marred.

Now I unscrew and attempt to to solder a new wire to the post while it is in the top. After numerous tries I noticed I had totally fried the insulator. I went ahead and pushed out the post. While I had it out I shaved it down so that it only protrudes trough maybe a milimeter or two (it is really tight in there due to battery connector being flush with the top). Now I very carefully wrap it in electrical tape. This time I screw in the PCB and then insert the post. Before soldering I check to make sure voltage is runnig through the switch etc....

Now while I am assembling I break the spring. That damn spring sucks. I rip open an old X10 motion detector and grab the spring. While I am trying to wind it around the post, the mother fken post breaks. Well screw it... I soldered the dam spring to one of the posts for the switch with tons of solder on top... for support.

Now I assemble it and for fk sakes it does not work. I unscrew the base and notice it is flat and not beveled (as mentioned in another post). I throw a flat spring in the base.

It works now. At least I know what I am in for the next time. I am going to order another one so I can at least use the battery connector I thought I had messed up. I had cut it short, but as I found out you have to do that anyway.

A BIG THANK YOU to Cisco and every one else that has contributed to this thread. I could not have done this without all of you.

Credits...
Cicso
Everyone else
Dremel
Makida hand drill
bernzOmatic torch/soldering iron
Patients

First build 6hr (30 min dissasemby, 5 1/2 hr of dumb assery)
 
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