Okie doke, Videodave... well, Brent isn't making it easy since he doesn't have the specs onsite. But I'm about 99% confident that what you're looking at there is virtually identical to what I have. That's the Lambo, and he's calling it v2 because its in chrome, with the 'ego' connection (that would be the channel you mentioned). So... that has the internals of the V1 lavatube, so it is regulated to a 2.5amp switch. Now if you vape a lot of 1.25 and 1.5ohm dual coils, that may well present a problem, since some of those won't even get out of the 3s voltage wise with that super low res stuff. BUT, if you're vaping 1.7ohm (what I vape) and higher, I'd say you're good with that one. AND not only that, but even if you're vaping 1.5ohm now, you'll be able to move up to 2ohm easily because you'll have the full vv function. 2 should allow you to get in the high 4s voltage wise, off the top of my head. Watching that Phil Busardo vid I gave you the link for will REALLY help you, because it'll tell you exactly how high the 2.5 amp restriction will allow you to vape with your resistance of dual coils. And that's exactly what Brent meant when he said they don't play nice with DCs. A more accurate statement is they don't play nice with low res DCs. HOWEVER.... lemme tell you my experience... I was never quite satisfied with a 3.7ohm device, but I REALLY don't like vaping 6v or even 5v. What I love is a 1.7ohm single coil on my stainless lambo at about 4.4v. Now mine is exactly identical unit to the one you're considering in every way, except the stainless is solid and the chrome is copper plated with chrome. I was determined to get the solid one, but lemme tell you.. chrome is much prettier after a few weeks. Chrome has a rather nice 'blueish' hue to it, whereas the polished stainless casts a sort of 'yellow' light, and darkens considerably with oils and heat. I love the 'solid' hefty feel, and I can tell you from experience that a chrome or stainless tube will 'age' better than a powdercoated one. Powdercoated ones have a few 'tender' spots where they can malfunction... button cracks or falls into unit, and is generally a little problematic, and caps on originals were plastic, so they had a tendency to crack. The solid metal units have dealt with all those issues, and are MUCH sturdier. I've dropped mine on solid slate tile floor at least 10x, with nary an issue aside from a slight burr in the metal finish, which is buffable. They're MUCH prettier, too. I was VERY active in apollo forum when people were getting their chrome and stainless units, and I can tell you, 98% of these suckers just work beautifully. About 2% had problems right out of the gate (which will happen.. there's always lemons in anything mass produced) and were sent in for replacement. Thats considerably higher number that function as intended than the powdercoated tubes seem to get. So... I'm very happy with a 1.7ohm at about 4.4v, pretty much ideal for me, and mid 4s are ideal sweetspot for a ton of vapers. Plus, smoktek (vendor, not the smoketech manufacturer) sells smoketech dual coils in 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5 etc.. so even if you want to vape at 6v, you'll be cool, you'll just have to start getting higher res dual coils. And you will get alllmost up to 6 at 3ohms, but not quite. Have to go to 3.5 to get there. So here's the deal... if that works for you regulation wise (I knew it would with me, cause i knew my sweetspot) then you'll be good. The issue arises with VV vapers who like to push dcs to their absolute max and vape the 1.25ohm at 4.4v... you flat out can't do that with these tubes. They'll let you set your voltage to wherever you like, but the internal electronics will only push 2.5amps max... so it'll say 4.4 on the display, but 'restrict' your voltage to max of 2.5amps. (and that's gonna be somewhere in the mid 3s, I'd guess offhand.. Phil B's vid will tell you exactly. Now its not just lavatube that does it this way.. all tube mods, vv, to my knowledge, have some variety of amp restriction. Provari is 3.5, I believe, but the v1 provari was 2.5 as well. So as long as that won't screw you up, you'll be like me and utterly thrilled with the tube. HOWEVER... in August lrider is coming out with the Chrome tubes in the v3 internals... so that will have an internal ohm meter (tells you the resistance of your atty/carto) and I believe a 4amp switch. There are 'clones' out right now, and a v1.5 from lrider, but none of them are available in the all metal yet, and beyond that, the lrider 1.5s are having issues with low power smoking (!) and the clones seem to be misrepresented by the manufacturers (NOT lrider tubes) and they're being called 3-4 amp, and in reality much much lower with independent testing. The actual LRIDER v3 tube, chrome, with 4amp switch should be out in August. One final thing to consider...
www.crystalclearvaping.com is expecting some NON lrider tubes, in chrome within the next month or so.. and they'll likely have an amp restriction slightly higher than the 2.5, and an ohm meter. However.. i really feel strongly that the lrider tubes are a 'known' commodity.. we know how they fail, how they work, and that for the most part, they are sold to the vendors with correct specs. And that is proving NOT to be the case with the knockoffs. So you're probably better either going with the chrome tube with v1 internals now, or waiting till August if you can. It all depends on how seriously that 2.5amp restriction will impede your chosen resistance on your dual coils, though. And that Phil B vid will tell you all about it. BTW, same identical tube you're looking at with hoosier is $10 cheaper at apollo, with a year warranty. Just choose 'chrome' from the dropdown. Photo you're seeing there is NOT of the chrome, but is of the powdercoated one... chrome is $10 addon. So that may be something to consider, as well.

Yell out if you need anything, or get confused with the phil b vid, or want to tell exactly what ohm cartos you wanna use (and keep in mind.. its vv. TOTALLY different experience vaping something 2ohm at 4.8v than it is at 3.7v, so don't get too hung up on exactly the resistance you vape right now. Difference in voltage will easily allow you to go up a bit in your ohms, and still be WAAAY more satisfied than you are right now w 3.7v fixed. I'm a pretty 'picky' vaper, and I adore mine.

Rut row... I lied.. the hoosier one is $5 cheaper. HOWEVER... I'd suggest paying the extra $5 ($65 total) to get that extra 11mos warranty with Apollo, personally. Really does matter.
Single Apollo VTube
Yell out if you need anything, get confused, etc. There are a slew of tubes out now, different manufacturers, some are accurate specs wise, some arent... it can get VERY confusing, especially for someone researching vv for the first time. That's what I'm here for. Good luck!
Oh and one more thing.. do me a favor, before you buy at apollo or hoosier, give apollo a ring or a 'contact us' online. I know they've got their stainless tubes discounted by 30% till they run out (and they'll never be made again), and not sure if that applies to the chrome or not. AND not sure if you need to use a coupon code or what, but just wanna make sure you don't miss out on 30% off if its possible.
And lastly... if you do get the chrome.. Pick yourself up a '3.5ml tank cone' at the same time. They're under $3, but you may really want to use it with some of your cartos, depending on how 'tight' or 'loose and airy' the draw is on those particular cartos. The draw on the chrome/stainless 'lambo' version lrider tubes is tending toward the 'airy'... so its perfect for me if I use my smoktech 1.7ohm single coils, because they have a rather tight draw. But if I were using something like a boge carto, I'd want that 3.5ml tank cone in there (slips right into that 'ego' connection channel, so you can barely see it), just to tighten up the draw. My sole blog entry kind of explains that, and will show you what that '3.5ml tank cone' looks like, both on your potential pv and off. You can barely see it at all on there, though. I'm pretty sure you can grab one either at hoosier or apollo. I actually kind of like the 'airy' draw because I'm finding that I'm able to get a few more weeks out of my cartos before they need to be cleaned, since as they're used the draw tends to tighten, and would be too tight with a device with a tighter draw, but they're just fine on the metal tube. Oh, and just for giggles. There was a mistake with my tube, and I got a chrome 'head' and a stainless 'body'... so you can see in the photos the difference between the two colorwise, if you're perhaps interested in the stainless. Either way, it'll show you how they look next to each other. Near identical, but tiny bit different. And mine has now been replaced with an all steel tube, so I know from experience Apollo is solid with customer care. lol