Cool, I use uwicks in all my gennies (the ones that are capable anyway). Looking forward to the picks.
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Cool, I use uwicks in all my gennies (the ones that are capable anyway). Looking forward to the picks.
I'm not sure what you are asking. The post I linked to has several links in it for sourcing the fused glass (silica heated to 2000degC)
this may also help: Fused quartz - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Flintlock asked you for info on fuzed glass and you directed him to this thread.. I asked where or which post in that thread since I cant find any info on fused glass in The Next Big thing.... Porous Ceramic Wicks
Maybe there was a misunderstanding? You said your wick was "glass fused glass" whereas the links from the thread refer to glass fused silica.
Maybe your original description was a typo and you mean glass fused silica?
That is what I thought.. Glass fused glass, not silica.
I googled fused glass rod, and came up with Bullseye stringers from Sundance Glass Art. Of course it was only 2mm for the thickest rod.
I googled fused glass rod, and came up with Bullseye stringers from Sundance Glass Art. Of course it was only 2mm for the thickest rod.
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AAh, fused silica is glass, my bad. They heat the silica grains to 2000degC, that turns it into its amorphous state otherwise known as "glass".
Are you sure that the Chromium oxide that is forming is from the mesh? Kanthal is the thing that has chrome in it
stainless has chrome and nickle in it and some people torch it to a god awful black charred mess and it is leeching this back into the fluids for them, and there is thread in the modders forum where someone is having this juice analyzed for chromium content. while cromium itself isnt terribly bad the type of chromium that forms from such high heat has health implications.
High heat? Are we talking about extreme vaping? I have an aga-t here, and I wanted to do a 1/2 wrap with 32 gauge, but the reach from wick hole to center post is to far and the coil breaks. So I'm running 2.2 ohms at 8.5 watts, my prefered watts with most things. Is there a fine line with the heat or is it any heat?
wrong heat, this is in relation to the setup of the wick when people use a torch to oxidize the wick/mesh the heat of the torch or blue flame turns the chromium into an oxide and the type of chrome oxide is the concern.
So torches are too hot and cigarette lighters are dirty? I guess we are screwed
Torches aren't too hot. Just don't let the wick get any hotter than dull red. You just have to be careful. If you heat the wick up until it's orange, it's too hot.
So has anyone else looked into something like this?
A ceramic coated mesh?
I'm still looking for a coating that is compatible with ss.
You don't think a coating only 2-15 microns thick is thin enough?
Haven't used ss mesh, would a coating this thin actually restrict a ss mesh much?
{Edit}
Ok, so I looked into it and 400 or 500 mesh is between about 25 to 39 microns for the hole sizes on the mesh. Now I'm wondering if a 400 mesh coated with a 5 micron coating would be about equal to a 500 mesh. hmm now I'm just rambling.....
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Can't recall the thread I read, but saw mention of taking 400 grid to it.Ok, I received my ceramic 1/8" wicks....but I have the ZAP...how do I trim this down to fit without breaking it
I have been dragging my ss mesh across a red-hot electic stove element with virtually no crud build-up that you'd get from a flame torch. It's the extreme heat that takes the spring out of the mesh for better rolling. Then I fine-brush under pressure for a few minutes to remove any remaining particles.
After done rolling, I wrap and boil the wick. (Takes the finger-roll stench out)
I angle-cut the bottom, so I can VG juice & burn the very small end of the tip several times to reduce incidence of shorts without clogging the base of the wick.
Top of the wick I guck up to kingdom-come with butane from a lighter which oxidizes off during dryburn, coil adjustment and juicing.
Fill tank with .2ml of PG and wet-burn away ....
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