Let's start Looking for Alternatives to SS Mesh

[j4mmin42]

You know, I almost forgot to mention...I ended up breaking two out of three of my 1/8" ceramic wicks, which ended up being very expensive...

If anyone knows where to get the 3/32 size wicks, I'm going to need them soon. I can't seem to figure out what atomizer the 1/8" wicks are supposed to fit in.

So far, the broken wicks work pretty well, for something that's barely even sticking into the tank section at all.

 

[Rule62]

I wonder the same thing. There is a point at which dangerous chemicals are leached from metals. One unrelated example is when I cast round lead balls for my smoke pole. At 700 deg, it's relatively safe, but at 900 deg, gases are omitted that become dangerous.

I agree with this. I'm a lead caster myself. But back on topic, I'm sticking with ss wicks. I firmly believe that the danger, if there is one to begin with, involves the over heating of the mesh, during the oxidation process; not the mesh itself.

 

[flintlock62]

That's the point I was attempting to make. Oxidation of any metal occurs when they reach certain temperatures. Since lead is a metal, I don't think it was too far off topic. Was the study for heated ss, or molten? Big difference.

I agree with this. I'm a lead caster myself. But back on topic, I'm sticking with ss wicks. I firmly believe that the danger, if there is one to begin with, involves the over heating of the mesh, during the oxidation process; not the mesh itself.

 

[EDO]

I agree with this. I'm a lead caster myself. But back on topic, I'm sticking with ss wicks. I firmly believe that the danger, if there is one to begin with, involves the over heating of the mesh, during the oxidation process; not the mesh itself.

I generally don't oxidize my meshes too much. I just hold the top portion of the rolled mesh to my stove when the wick starts glowing a couple of seconds I am done. Looking at the mesh afterwards it doesn't look like it has changed color much at all. I wouldn't call it an oxidized mesh. Is the glowing mesh really at 1500 Fahrenheit at the point it starts glowing? Should I just make sure the mesh never glows at all? HOw about just doing one flame burn of PG? Will the mesh reach the critical temperatures with just one flame burn? I am asking you this because I remember you mentioning that you had welded stainless steel for years.

 

[Rule62]

That's the point I was attempting to make. Oxidation of any metal occurs when they reach certain temperatures. Since lead is a metal, I don't think it was too far off topic. Was the study for heated ss, or molten? Big difference.

From what I have read, and from my experience in welding and fabricating stainless steel, the maximum carbide precipitation, which is what is providing the insulation layer on the mesh; occurs when the metal is heated to between 800F-1400F. Anything beyond that, who knows? It may pose a danger. I don't know. But I do know that heating the mesh to a bright orange is pointless, because it's overkill.

 

[Rule62]

I generally don't oxidize my meshes too much. I just hold the top portion of the rolled mesh to my stove when the wick starts glowing a couple of seconds I am done. Looking at the mesh afterwards it doesn't look like it has changed color much at all. I wouldn't call it an oxidized mesh. Is the glowing mesh really at 1500 Fahrenheit at the point it starts glowing? Should I just make sure the mesh never glows at all? HOw about just doing one flame burn of PG? Will the mesh reach the critical temperatures with just one flame burn? I am asking you this because I remember you mentioning that you had welded stainless steel for years.

Just a dull red would be sufficient. That's about 1200F-1400F. If it's bright red to orange, it's too hot.

 

[Rule62]

The chart on post #1 of this thread is a pretty good guide. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...08-stainless-steel-mesh-oxide-discussion.html

 

[EDO]

Just a dull red would be sufficient. That's about 1200F-1400F. If it's bright red to orange, it's too hot.

OK Thanks. When I used to do flame burns of e liquid.... I never noticed the mesh glowing ( I have to pay attention to that now). Maybe that is the safe way to go...until these ceramic wicks are more readily available.

 

[StaircaseWit]

I keep thinking about dry-burning, because heavy oxidation can be avoided. When I first got my RBA, it would start to taste funky and I'd do a dry-burn, and the mesh would glow red under the coil after a few pulses. I know a lot of people recommend doing that, even on the dry wick before adding juice (I've recommended it a fair share myself), so that even if we don't oxidize heavily, the mesh is glowing red for a lot of people during setup and later during dry burns.

 

[Keithhe]

I keep thinking about dry-burning, because heavy oxidation can be avoided. When I first got my RBA, it would start to taste funky and I'd do a dry-burn, and the mesh would glow red under the coil after a few pulses. I know a lot of people recommend doing that, even on the dry wick before adding juice (I've recommended it a fair share myself), so that even if we don't oxidize heavily, the mesh is glowing red for a lot of people during setup and later during dry burns.

The mesh is glowing red? From the coil?? I can't imagine the coil could ever get the mesh hot enough to have it glow red. The coil does for sure.

 

[FrogHat]

You know, I almost forgot to mention...I ended up breaking two out of three of my 1/8" ceramic wicks, which ended up being very expensive...

If anyone knows where to get the 3/32 size wicks, I'm going to need them soon. I can't seem to figure out what atomizer the 1/8" wicks are supposed to fit in.

So far, the broken wicks work pretty well, for something that's barely even sticking into the tank section at all.

That's not very promising....mine are on the way, how did you try and shave them down?

 

[vapdivrr]

You know, I almost forgot to mention...I ended up breaking two out of three of my 1/8" ceramic wicks, which ended up being very expensive...

If anyone knows where to get the 3/32 size wicks, I'm going to need them soon. I can't seem to figure out what atomizer the 1/8" wicks are supposed to fit in.

So far, the broken wicks work pretty well, for something that's barely even sticking into the tank section at all.

you do know that the 3/32 wicks are smaller then the 1/8 wicks right? so much for ceramic wicks. anyways the 1/8 are supposed to fit the did's/ ac-9. the 3/32 wicks to fit the cobra/aga/zens

 

[FrogHat]

you do know that the 3/32 wicks are smaller then the 1/8 wicks right? so much for ceramic wicks. anyways the 1/8 are supposed to fit the did's/ ac-9. the 3/32 wicks to fit the cobra/aga/zens

I have a Zen and ordered the 1/8.....I'll figure it out

 

[fraghole]

Sweet, if you got yours today, maybe it's a sign that mine also arrived!

Have you used a lot of silica devices? In my experience, they do get covered in silica if they're not wet with eliquid while handling them. Sometimes that's not the case, but silica is fragile stuff, especially if its shipped with it already installed (was it?)...

Anyway hopefully I'll be able to chime in on this later today if indeed it is sitting in my mail.

Yeah it was shipped with a wick and coil already setup. This is my first silica device. First dripper as well. I really wanted a K705, but couldn't find one. I think ones in the classies now, but in Germany I think.

 

[MikeE3]

I have a Zen and ordered the 1/8.....I'll figure it out

I have 3x 1/8" wicks from tankecigs - 1 didn't fit in a ZAP at all, the other 2 would go in about 1/2 way 'from one end only'. I had to slightly work file down 1 end to get it to fit all the way. It didn't take much, just a few passes on some 400 grit emery paper. I'm thinking though, that may still be too big by a 'hair'. The commercial stones are not wicking for me as well as my DIY stones with are just slightly (by a few thousands of an inch) smaller than 1/8". I'm thinking - but not totally convinced - like with an SS mesh wick it should not be a snug fit. I found a snug SS wick cuts down on wicking too.

 

[foggybottom]

From what I have read, and from my experience in welding and fabricating stainless steel, the maximum carbide precipitation, which is what is providing the insulation layer on the mesh; occurs when the metal is heated to between 800F-1400F. Anything beyond that, who knows? It may pose a danger. I don't know. But I do know that heating the mesh to a bright orange is pointless, because it's overkill.

That's interesting, I never really understood what it is that is supposed to provide electrical isulation to a torched SS mesh. Are these iron carbides, chromium carbides or both? And is it a known fact that carbides insulate, or is it just assumed that something must be doing it and carbides are a good candidate? Is it known if oxides have any role in insulating the mesh? I can't seem to find any solid info on the interwebnets.

 

[StaircaseWit]

The mesh is glowing red? From the coil?? I can't imagine the coil could ever get the mesh hot enough to have it glow red. The coil does for sure.

Dry burn a coil on a bone-dry mesh in the dark. You'll see it glow red after 5-10 seconds.

 

[keenanmcfar]

It seems to me that somebody should get to making porous ceramic wicks around a small, very stiff needle. The 3/32 probably not is too small for that but it seems viable for the 1/8 wicks. Untill this is done i will probably stick with mesh.

 

[EDO]

Dry burn a coil on a bone-dry mesh in the dark. You'll see it glow red after 5-10 seconds.

Oh brother....we can't dry burn anymore either if that's the case.

 

[StaircaseWit]

Oh brother....we can't dry burn anymore either if that's the case.

Honestly, it is the case. 2.0ohm coil of 32ga Kanthal on a 1.5" x 3" solid 500 mesh wick at 3.8V, the wick will glow red after 5-10 seconds -- try it in the dark.