Let's start Looking for Alternatives to SS Mesh

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BrokenLung

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MikeE3

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Ok, I received my ceramic 1/8" wicks....but I have the ZAP...how do I trim this down to fit without breaking it :)

by trim down - if you mean the diameter, I did it with 400 grit emery paper or you could use a diamond coated finger nail file.

If you mean the length - the best is with a diamond wheel in a dremel to cut it shorter. I've also sucessfully scored them with a razor knife than 'snapped' it at the score line. (scary but it worked).


Make sure it doesn't extend higher than the positive post. If it does, you risk breaking it when you put the top cap back on.
 

Tarkvemada

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Does that really work??? That would be great.
Just this morning.. I boiled my piece of mesh, rolled the wick, wrapped the coil, installed into my AGA-T2. Then I did pulse fire for about 5 minutes: second on, second off and so on... The coils start glowing one after another , the first was only the top coil glowing,then after 20-30 seconds the second coil.. Slowly I've got all my coils glow evenly.. No juice burn, no torch burning or gas stove burning.. Then filled my tank and dropped some juice on my wick and that's it..
 

Tarkvemada

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Another advice- I use hemp/cotton yarn for my silica atomizers. 35% hemp, 65% cotton. It's cheap Martha Stewart brand from the craft store, Michael's.. Wicks better than pure cotton, I even say better than silica. Only thing - you shouldn't dry burn it ever. I always keep it moist. last pretty much the same as silica, but 100% safer. The roll cost about $4
 

ricks

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Sounds interesting, i might try that also. Did you boil it before coiling?
Another advice- I use hemp/cotton yarn for my silica atomizers. 35% hemp, 65% cotton. It's cheap Martha Stewart brand from the craft store, Michael's.. Wicks better than pure cotton, I even say better than silica. Only thing - you shouldn't dry burn it ever. I always keep it moist. last pretty much the same as silica, but 100% safer. The roll cost about $4
 
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StaircaseWit

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Sounds interesting, i might try that also. Did you boil it before coiling?

You should boil any natural fiber, and I'd also burn-test it.

I do 20 minutes twice, with a water change in between and rinse in distilled water after. Makes for the cleanest-tasting wick.
 
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ardvaark

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Another way to avoid the shorts - boiling the mesh. For about 10 - 15 minutes. SS become non conductive.

I tried this with a flat piece of #400, 1.75" X 2.5". Exactly the same conductivity afterwards. Did not seem to change at all. Boiled in tap water. Started to float so I kept pushing it under.
 

Tarkvemada

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I tried this with a flat piece of #400, 1.75" X 2.5". Exactly the same conductivity afterwards. Did not seem to change at all. Boiled in tap water. Started to float so I kept pushing it under.
the point is - pulse firing when it coiled. Day second with this wick and semms like it works perfect. No any darkened juice in my tank and I'v never got my mesh glowing.. When it will need cleaning - I'll just twist the wick out, wash it with the tap water, dry burn the coil and twist the wick back into the coil.
 

MikeE3

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I tried a completely unoxidized uwick with my cobra and provari. I had to use a BIC lighter, and some juice to get it working.

No torch, no quenching, no glowing mesh. The provari pops E1 so easy. Has any anyone been able to do no torch, no lighter with a provari? Straight or U?

I've done a couple on a Provari. Can't start w/ a 'real low ohm coil'. Turn the Provari down to 3 volts when you pulse it. After all the coils are glowing you can slowly raise it up. My coils were 1.3 and 1.5Ωs when finished.

Edit: If I started at 3.5v or higher, I'd get E1 errs too.
 

ukeman

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OT - Provari and regulated devices with safety feature amp limiter has gone from my ultimate device to the drawer seldom used when it comes to genesis atomizers...
I know Almighty God Duane uses his on some of his Genesis rba youtube vids... check it out.
The Cobra drove me crazy with my Provari before I got a mechanical device... I suggest no thicker than 32g wire. I don't think its the mesh thats the problem there.
Normally can do minimal oxidizing as long as its mechanical and the thicker wire (28g), gives you sub 1.0 Ohms and minimal hot spots... very forgiving.
I tried a completely unoxidized uwick with my cobra and provari. I had to use a BIC lighter, and some juice to get it working.

No torch, no quenching, no glowing mesh. The provari pops E1 so easy. Has any anyone been able to do no torch, no lighter with a provari? Straight or U?
 
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