Let's talk grease for mechanical mods ...

[areinike]

I've been looking and thought of picking up some typical Noalox from Home Depot, but found links to other conductive greases that might fair better. Anybody have experience between the different types?

NO-OX NO-OX-ID rust preventatives & conversion coating prevent corrosion
Conductive Carbon Grease Conductive Carbon Grease 50g - Jaycar Electronics

I'm mostly interested in using it for the cheaper mech mods I have (China GGs) that seem to need a little lube.

 

[jasl90]

I use good ol' fashion dielectric grease. It works beautifully. While it's not conductive itself, it does not interfere with the connection. It's real benefit is that lubricates the threads and keeps oxygen off the metal surfaces, preventing oxidization.

I started out using noalox found that would get sticky and clumpy over time and it was a pita to clean off. I've been much happier since I made the switch. Plus... It's ALOT cheaper.

 

[areinike]

So basically, vasoline is another option is electrical conductivity isn't an issue with non-conductive grease?

 

[jasl90]

Never tried it, but yes, I would assume that it would work just fine.

 

[hazozita]

I switched from Noalox to Ox-Gard (here's a link for Amazon, but you can probably get it at a HD or Lowes: http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-OX-100B-Anti-Oxidant-Compound/dp/B000BODU66/ref=cm_cr-mr-title)

I'm liking the Ox-Gard better. All the benefits of Noalox but a little easier to manage (not as runny as Noalox can sometimes get). It also appears to improve conductivity better than Noalox, but the main advantage for me is that it's less messy to work with.

 

[tenshi]

I use noalox on threads but everywhere else I use Super Lube Synthetic Grease Super Lube Synthetic Grease with Syncolon Multi Purpose Lubricant 3 oz - Amazon.com because it's non-toxic and nsf if even contacted with food. I use it for like tanks or the sleeves on my Poldys... Pretty neat stuff. Works well everywhere, including the kitchen

 

[Flyer]

Yep, Noalox. Home Depot and Ace both have it.

 

[bryphi]

All I use is noalox. I've never had an issue with it being messy or anything. Shrug.

 

[Mohd Asraf]

Does anyone ever tried using copper base joint compount? As we know copper is better conductivity than zinc (noalax).

 

[ubergeek922]

If you live near an AutoZone or probably any other auto parts store, they sell little packets of grease and such by the register for a buck. Pretty cheap way of trying some different kinds to find what you prefer.

 

[Leithan]

I like the locktite brand of dielectric grease, I have the same trouble with noalox, it gets clumpy and sticky. I have also used good old vasoline, while it works, once the mod gets warm, even pocket warm, it tends to flow out of the threads, loosing it’s effectiveness. I read a couple of good articles on Galling/cold welding. I now always coat my threads with something and try to avoid anything with an aluminum to aluminum joint. A couple of the articles I read said to avoid any anti seize compounds that contain nickel with stainless steel. No reason was given, they just said to avoid it.

 

[Heavyrocker]

Does greasing threads on a Mod make it hit harder?

 

[Ryedan]

Heavyrocker, I've had my K100 for two months now and I've put about 2 ml a day through it. I lubed the threads and contact points when I got it with Noalox (bought from HD) and have not noticed any degradation in performance since. I will be cleaning it soon and re-applying Noalox. So I have no idea if it makes it hit harder because I did it at the beginning, but I know that it has stopped any corrosion from causing noticeable voltage/performance drop in the interim. This is working for me.

 

[Heavyrocker]

My SS cable in the Natural/RSST hits me like a sledge hammer,no need too grease er up.

 

[Titan2043]

Noalox is an antioxidant, it, by definition, inhibits the ability of a metal to oxidize (read rust etc) This is an issue on some metal mods, particularly where aluminum meets aluminum especially when there is a current passing through the metal (such as in a mod) I do not and would not use it on a SS or brass mod where the top caps and bottom caps are of the same metal. I DO use it on my aluminum mechs, such as my titan bottom cap, avenger lockriing (even though it is SS to keep it from binding) titan top cap (contact between brass and aluminum) and a few other places. On my ss mods like my Nemesis i prefer to clean and polish the threads using wd40 (sounds weird I know) to make sure that they are clean and dirt free and absolutely do not use noalox on it, same with my poldiac (no need) Its a crucial lubricant particularly for dis similar metal contact points like copper and aluminum but mostly unnecessary elsewhere. An imperceptable amount will suffice in any application but does tend to collect dirt and get gunky after some use..
Hope this helps
-titan2043

 

[Mohd Asraf]

Noalox is an antioxidant, it, by definition, inhibits the ability of a metal to oxidize (read rust etc) This is an issue on some metal mods, particularly where aluminum meets aluminum especially when there is a current passing through the metal (such as in a mod) I do not and would not use it on a SS or brass mod where the top caps and bottom caps are of the same metal. I DO use it on my aluminum mechs, such as my titan bottom cap, avenger lockriing (even though it is SS to keep it from binding) titan top cap (contact between brass and aluminum) and a few other places. On my ss mods like my Nemesis i prefer to clean and polish the threads using wd40 (sounds weird I know) to make sure that they are clean and dirt free and absolutely do not use noalox on it, same with my poldiac (no need) Its a crucial lubricant particularly for dis similar metal contact points like copper and aluminum but mostly unnecessary elsewhere. An imperceptable amount will suffice in any application but does tend to collect dirt and get gunky after some use..
Hope this helps
-titan2043

Hi Titan, im also using nemesis as my main pv. But the drop volt against 1ohm atty is 0.5v. Is this normal? I have tried so many way like noalax, cleaning with pga but the result is still the same. Just wondering how does those reviewer at youtube get less than 0.5v drop load. Any opinion?

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[Vedra]

Been considering pilfering a bit of frog lube from the supply box for the threads on my mech...

 

[Bmannator]

I like the locktite brand of dielectric grease, I have the same trouble with noalox, it gets clumpy and sticky. I have also used good old vasoline, while it works, once the mod gets warm, even pocket warm, it tends to flow out of the threads, loosing it’s effectiveness. I read a couple of good articles on Galling/cold welding. I now always coat my threads with something and try to avoid anything with an aluminum to aluminum joint. A couple of the articles I read said to avoid any anti seize compounds that contain nickel with stainless steel. No reason was given, they just said to avoid it.

That seems odd. Nickel is what makes stainless steel "stainless"

 

[WattWick]

I've been looking and thought of picking up some typical Noalox from Home Depot, but found links to other conductive greases that might fair better. Anybody have experience between the different types?

NO-OX NO-OX-ID rust preventatives & conversion coating prevent corrosion
Conductive Carbon Grease Conductive Carbon Grease 50g - Jaycar Electronics

I'm mostly interested in using it for the cheaper mech mods I have (China GGs) that seem to need a little lube.

That's just gross. I'm not spitting on any of my mechs.

 

[TheToolMan]

Im an electrical engineer with ALOT of test gear at my fingertips including micro ohm meters and micro amp meters to measure small changes in resistance and amperage draw. I have tries a number of greases with zero changes in measured performance from any of my PV's. I have 30+ mechanical mods and tested grease in a variety of them. Noalox and the like does nothing to increase performance. It will just keep your threads from squeaking. If that's all you want to do them you any lube you want. I have tried copper based anti-seize with negligible performance increases.

Now ive been using this silver grease from circuit works for a while now. This is the only grease that actually works. If you take your meter leads and dip it in a pile of the grease it reads a dead short so be really careful with the application of it. A little goes a LONG way. If you read the resistance of other greases it will read an open. No performance gains. This has a HIGH concentration of silver and is used in the industrial field for circuit breakers and the like.


http://www.chemtronics.com/products/americas/TDS/Cw7100tds.pdf



NOW because this is ECF and i dont like to post here alot because of the people that are going to try and debate my statement im not going to defend what ive said. Try and get some silver grease for an increas in performance. It really works.