Let's talk hardware

[XfooYen]

Got my new 400 mesh today for the AGA-T+. Tried a new wick and it's no good. Either it would register no resistance or it was 5 -7 ohms if I wiggled it around just right. Tried another one...same thing. Went back to my first wick that worked (but was poor performing) and getting the same thing. All I did was bore the wick hole out from .100 to .125. It's a piece of shlt. Walking away for awhile.

It's not a piece of shlt. You just have a short. Pulse, pulse, pulse, pulse, pulse, pulse. Very short bursts. You should see the hot spot start to sort itself out. If not, poke the hot spot a teensy bit. Then back to pulsing. If the coil is wrapped too tight, that can be a problem. Lean the wick as close to the positive nut as possible. Almost touching. That can rid you of a hot leg at the top. Another thing to try is to wrap the positive wire around the post without using a top nut to secure it. Just a single wrap around the threads and don't even place the securing nut on it. Keep at it. The AGA-T2 is one of the tougher gennies to set up. It's a great learning atty. Once you get out down, you'll be good on just about anything.

*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk.*

 

[XfooYen]

XfooYen, I think this statement best describes me. For now I will likely use a Protank or Maybe a carto tank, but most likely a protank. I will eventually get in to rebuildables but I am taking baby steps right now and I'm still learning about everything.

This is some awesome Info Thanks for all this! You Rock!

If you're using a ProTank and cartos on a mech, get low resistance heads. Your mech fires at 4 volts and below and there is no regulation of voltage. You're a slave to the charge of the battery. Invest in a Kick if you want to add regulated wattage to a mech. The classifieds usually have them at a discount.

*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk.*

 

[Bronze]

It's not a piece of shlt. You just have a short. Pulse, pulse, pulse, pulse, pulse, pulse. Very short bursts. You should see the hot spot start to sort itself out. If not, poke the hot spot a teensy bit. Then back to pulsing. If the coil is wrapped too tight, that can be a problem. Lean the wick as close to the positive nut as possible. Almost touching. That can rid you of a hot leg at the top. Another thing to try is to wrap the positive wire around the post without using a top nut to secure it. Just a single wrap around the threads and don't even place the securing nut on it. Keep at it. The AGA-T2 is one of the tougher gennies to set up. It's a great learning atty. Once you get out down, you'll be good on just about anything.

*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk.*

Thanks for the encouragement X. Sadly, I should have read it sooner. But all's well that ends well. I got my AGA-T+ working like a champ now. I walked away for a bit and came back to it. Took it all apart, cleaned it good, and put it back together. Grabbed the best of the three wicks I rolled and re-oxidized it. Threw it back in, wrapped it four times and it works great. Played with the coil to get some of the hot spots out and it is smoking like a chimney now. I do have the wick leaning toward the positive post as that was something I learned from Busardo. I'm getting 1.5ohms and it is churning up plumes of vapor. Now I need to dial in the wattage that I like most. As you know, I'm a cool vapor (6.0 watts). So I need to throw all that out the window and act like I'm a brand new vaper and try different settings. I'm currently at 3.6 volts (8.6 watts) and it's not too bad. But like I say, I need to monkey around with it and see what fits best for my profile.

I'm also wondering what kind of break-in experience I will need...if any? What kind of flavor will I be getting from a brand new wick? Etc..? Thoughts X?

Thanks for the help.

Ed

EDIT: I know it's not a piece of shlt..but it was at the exact moment I knew I had to take a break from it.

 

[Bronze]

It's not a piece of shlt. You just have a short. Pulse, pulse, pulse, pulse, pulse, pulse. Very short bursts. You should see the hot spot start to sort itself out. If not, poke the hot spot a teensy bit. Then back to pulsing. If the coil is wrapped too tight, that can be a problem. Lean the wick as close to the positive nut as possible. Almost touching. That can rid you of a hot leg at the top. Another thing to try is to wrap the positive wire around the post without using a top nut to secure it. Just a single wrap around the threads and don't even place the securing nut on it. Keep at it. The AGA-T2 is one of the tougher gennies to set up. It's a great learning atty. Once you get out down, you'll be good on just about anything.

*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk.*

And why does pulse-pulse-pulse action sort out the hot spots? I understood it that the coils had to be repositioned to sort out hot spots.

 

[XfooYen]

And why does pulse-pulse-pulse action sort out the hot spots? I understood it that the coils had to be repositioned to sort out hot spots.

The pulsing allows the mesh directly under the coil to become oxidized, and eventually insulated from conductivity. You pulse for a couple reasons. First, it will prevent you from popping the coil. Second, it will be safer on the battery in case the hot spot (which is a short circuit) is causing unusually low resistances to the battery. Technically, you don't even need to torch the mesh before coiling. You can successfully get a coil up and running simply by pulsing at low voltage...a lot. There's plenty of videos demonstrating this method. Another good tip when wrapping mesh wicks is to make sure there are no frays on the seam of the wick. Do this by folding the last 1/8" of the mesh under itself and creasing it before rolling. Then, your wick seam will not have frays. Also, position the seam side of the wick facing the positive post. That way, the top coil doesn't come in contact with the seam (a known weak point in the circuit which causes many hot legs).

 

[XfooYen]

I'm also wondering what kind of break-in experience I will need...if any? What kind of flavor will I be getting from a brand new wick? Etc..? Thoughts X?

Basically the coil needs to become seasoned and to a lesser extent, the wick. Typically, a half hour of heavy vaping will do. I find it takes about 2-3 ml of juice before things taste as they should. At lower wattage it can take longer.

 

[XfooYen]

Both my custom Sigeleis are up for sale in the classies if anyone is interested in a bump or just curious.

 

[Bronze]

Both my custom Sigeleis are up for sale in the classies if anyone is interested in a bump or just curious.

Link us X and I'll bump you (several times).

 

[XfooYen]

Link us X and I'll bump you (several times).

OK. Here it is...

 

[MrPicC]

New toy just delivered. Friend bought it and disliked it for some reason. Made a trade and owe him a few dollars but she's mine.
Last month I had no gennys. This month a bunch.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Bronze]

They look nice don't they?

 

[Frantic9k]

Both my custom Sigeleis are up for sale in the classies if anyone is interested in a bump or just curious.

Crap I can't view it. Looks like I need to go get myself verified

 

[Chakris]

Both my custom Sigeleis are up for sale in the classies if anyone is interested in a bump or just curious.

Look sweet Xfoo, gave you a bump.

 

[Schnarph]

Pretty sweet looking setup Xfoo, I think I mentioned that back when you finished it and posted pics here. Those look like they were a fair amount of work, and I bet they perform great. You're trading up, I assume?

I'm too cheap to get that myself, and I have a mental hangup on bottom button mods. I shouldn't knock it until I try it though.

I'm flip-flopping on getting a Provari, I only use RBA's and RDA's at home and VV/VW with Protanks or cartotanks when I leave the house. I don't see myself buying a Provari only for out of the house usage. Maybe on my 1 year vaping anniversary.

I pulled the trigger on a #20 V2 (copper spring and center pin) for $30 shipped. I hope it doesn't need too much modding.

My copper mod is pretty nice but needs tweeking or a total revision. I need to fabricate/purchase a mechanical firing button and copper center pin before I will be 100% satisfied. I also need to wrap it with something, I'm tired of getting blackened hands. At the moment, I'm thinking leather, but first I need a mech switch. That may take some time, so I bought a (hopefully) reliable mech mod to use in the meantime.

 

[jwhorner6]

New toy just delivered. Friend bought it and disliked it for some reason. Made a trade and owe him a few dollars but she's mine.
Last month I had no gennys. This month a bunch.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Do you have any agas or rssts? I've been contemplating a zap or cobra but I would like to know if there is that much of a difference to justify the cost.

So far in Vaping I have proven to myself that you get what you pay for as far as mods go but don't have any experience in the rba as I only have the cheaper Chinese ones...agas and rssts

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

 

[MrPicC]

Do you have any agas or rssts? I've been contemplating a zap or cobra but I would like to know if there is that much of a difference to justify the cost.

So far in Vaping I have proven to myself that you get what you pay for as far as mods go but don't have any experience in the rba as I only have the cheaper Chinese ones...agas and rssts

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

To be honest I traded some things non-ecig related so I only really paid 70$. At $70 I am not sad but I wouldn't pay more ever..
I have 1 AGA and 2 rsst tanks and the rsst is my absolute favorite.. The rsst has a bigger mesh hole and I like that more then anything.

 

[Schnarph]

Congrats on the Zenny Genny MrP!

This RichMan's RBA looks nice, but it performs exactly like a AGAT. It's just a modified clone of a clone.

I'd like to try the center post spring thingy on one of my AGAT's, as well as a larger wick hole.

Any ideas on where to find the right size spring, and will that require washers and if so which size?

 

[smitighe]

I took my center post with me and matched up with an appropriate spring. I did the same thing. Same goes with the washer. I went to ACE and they had everything I needed. I been on the prowl for M3 thru M6 metric pan head bolts. Not an easy find. I may have to hit up the intrawebs for those.


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[Schnarph]

I was planning on taking the center post with me as well. It's odd how worthless ACE can seem until you're looking for a better selection of tiny screws, I learned that in my computer modding days. I didn't know they had springs too, but I've never looked for those before. For a metric pan head, I'm thinking a grinder, Dremmel and/or sanding would be easy enough, for me at least. I assume it's not the size but the pan head that's hard to find. I do make poor assumptions at times, pardon me if I'm off base.

Nimbus clone came in today, dual coil @ 1.1ohms stock.

This reminds me, I need some top-quality IMR batteries. I'm using EH IMR's now. I have a pair of Panasonic's for my APV's, but I refuse to use them in a mech. The sticky in the battery thread sounds a tad paranoid and outdated, but I guess I should at least try some AW's. Thoughts?

 

[XfooYen]

I'm going to be selling 2x AGA-T2, 1x AGA-T, and 2x IGO-L pretty soon. Gotta make up for all the stuff I'm buying. Got a Nemesis and a Kayfun the other day. I ordered a Poldiac yesterday. I have two Nimbuses coming from a co-op, plus I'm gunning for a brass Nemesis in a couple of days. Out with the old, in with the new.