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My ears were burning. Currently, the best charger for the money would have to be the Efest LUC V4. It's a 4 bay charger capable of a 2 amp output (using two bays) or 1 amp output (using all four bays). 2 amps is only suggested for BIG bats like the 26650 or 18650 bats with high mAh and high amp ratings (like the Sony 30 amp VTC4). It will charge an 18650 from 3.2v to 4.2v in about 20 minutes. The LUC V4 can also switch to 0.5 amps output for smaller bats like the 18350 or 14xxx. It has clear LCD panel which current charge and output.
Be forewarned. Charging batteries at 2 amps, although perfectly safe, will greatly reduce the overall lifespan of the battery unless it is a very high capacity battery as previously mentioned.
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I have the Efest BIO V2 (2014 model) and it has all the features of the Efest Luc v4 less 2 bays and the screen, it is a superb charger for $20.
Ouch, lucky you were at home and able to catch it venting. Whew!
Mine is always plugged into a surge-controlled power strip, however, I always flip the switch off when not charging. There's a compartment or two in my wooden vape station specially for charged bats.
When I need to charge more than two batteries at a time I use a Trustfire TR-001. But that's a rare occasion. (using it off and on for almost two years now.)
The main charger I use is the Pila ICB that Provapes offers for $45. Very similar to the Xtar VP1, save it doesn't have the switchable LED readout. I've seen them sell on ebay anywhere from $39 - $55 Mine's been in use over a year now with no hassle. Provape included 4 spacers so you can charge two 18350s at the same time. Set up to charge one 18650 and one 18350 works great for me.
Specs:
http://www.pilatorch.com/pila_gl4_battery.html
Best Rechargeable Battery Chargers: Pila Battery Charger & Pila Charger
X you been gone a while. What you into these days?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
To this I would only add this much, I use a 0.25 amp feature for the VP-1 for my 18350 batteries. Both brands I use (AW and eFest) say that 0.5 amp is fine for that battery type, but I think using the lowest practicable charge makes sense due to (potential) lifespan issues. I don't know if the LUC V4 has a setting that low, but if you have lots of 18350 batteries, it is something to consider when making your choice. At 0.25 amps, my 18350s require perhaps 3 hours to charge from 3.5 volts to 4.2 volts.
Has anyone determined why Pop's battery charger failed? Did his charger have overcharging protection and it failed?
I agree Lion. If properly managed there is no need to hurry a charge. Under these circumstances, I would think the lowest input possible would be best unless someone knows something I don't. Seems 250mA is perfect for those little 18350's.
I use only two sizes...18490 and 18650 and the input on my TrustFire is 500mA. I feel OK with this input for these two sizes. It takes a while to get them charged up (guessing about 5 - 6 hours for the 18490). I never timed it.
Missed that one. I guess I would want the 4 bays. You can find it for around $25 on flashlight sites.
PM me and I'll tell you.
There is absolutely no need to go that low on a good 18350. 0.5 amps will not shorten the life of your bats. I have 18350s which are well over a year old and charge like new even today at 500mA. 250mA is probably best for something like a 14500 or smaller. Trust me. You're wasting valuable vape time waiting for those things to charge.
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Missed that one. I guess I would want the 4 bays. You can find it for around $25 on flashlight sites.
PM me and I'll tell you.
There is absolutely no need to go that low on a good 18350. 0.5 amps will not shorten the life of your bats. I have 18350s which are well over a year old and charge like new even today at 500mA. 250mA is probably best for something like a 14500 or smaller. Trust me. You're wasting valuable vape time waiting for those things to charge.
I believe you. However, I can assure you, with the stable of batteries I have in my rotation, I am not waiting one second of vape time. I just go to battery number 3 or 4 in the rotation.
If I get in a rush in the future, I will not hesitate to bump it up to 0.5 amp setting for those batteries. I am glad to hear that option is available, and your advice is fully within the manufacturer's listed parameters.
Thanks, Xfoo!
One other thing, I saw this chart posted the other week by Technonut. I am not sure if he is its creator, but he said it was a very good resource. I like it a lot for seeing, at a glance, how safe your battery is for lower ohm vaping...if you are into that sort of thing.
Speaking of batteries...I get in my truck and it doesn't start. No clicking, no nothing. Battery (six months old) is dead as a door nail (I think I left the dome light on...haven't driven it in a few days). I hook up my battery charger on ENGINE START and get it fired up. Drive to the store, get back out and it needed to be jumped. Drove around awhile to get it charged up. Very odd though. My radio, dome light, engine compartment light, and electric side mirrors are not working. Everything else works...headlights, taillights, dash lights, AC.heater, fan, power windows, power locks, etc. No idea why. I have it on the battery charger now (at 10 amp input) and I'm gonna give it a good charge. It's inputting at 11 amps (according to the ammeter) so it seems thirsty for a charge. I'll juice it up real good and see what happens but I don't know why those few things are not working. Can't believe the battery needs a full charge for those things to work. Doesn't make sense.
Where's 73 when we need him?
Where's 73 when we need him?
You can take it to any automotive place that sells batteries and have them load-test the battery. The battery should have a warranty on it also if you can find the receipt.
Well, I'm pretty sure I left the dome light on because it was in the on position (I'm just not 100% certain I didn't put it in the on position after I realized the batt was dead). I'm gonna give it a real good charge and see what happens. If it doesn't want to take a charge it's going back but I really don't think it's the batt. Something else funky is going on. I cannot figure out why some things work and other things don't (yes, I checked all the fuses too). Just makes no sense. I'm a pretty handy fella and can fix most anything, but when it comes to electrical I fall off quite a bit.
I'm not the dumbest person you've ever met, but when it comes to electricity and electronics I couldn't prove that statement.
I'm not a complete electronic idiot ..... but I would not consider it a strong point by any stretch. The problem with electronics is its inconsistency. I've had electricians tell me electricity is inconsistent. Why half the stuff on my truck works and the other half doesn't baffles me. I cannot say I have ever seen that before and I've seen most everything.
with the new vehicles, non essential stuff is bypassed with a low voltage situation. Lighting, locks, engine etc will work. Give the battery a good 12 -18 hrs charge @ 10-25 amps and see if it holds ( test start the engine) does your charger have the recondition setting on it?? if so you may want to apply it... a deep discharge has a tendancy to sulfate the battery making it difficult to do a quick recharge ( as in driving around for a while).... if it was severely discharged and sulfated too badly, reviving it may be out of the equation.
Thanks Killer.
For starters, my truck is a 1993 Dodge (bought it brand new and it is well taken care of and in very good shape for a 21 year old vehicle...it's my baby and I would continue to own it even if I won a billion dollar lottery). Anyhow, I believe the battery was dead as dead can be. When I went to start it...nothing. No turnover, no solenoid, nothing. Zilch, zero, nada. Pretty much tells me it was kaputski. To start it, I put it on 60amps and had to let it charge for about five minutes before it would start. I have it on 10amp input now. When i first hooked it up about 5 hours ago it was drawing the full 10amps. I just went out there and it is drawing 6 amps now. So it appears to be accepting a charge. I still don't know why my dome light and other electrical devices will not go on unless those are the "non-essential" things you suggest.
Batt charged up (had it on auto setting and the green lite went on). Hooked up the multimeter to the battery with the following results...
12.83 volts (engine off)
14.00 volts (engine at idle)
13.86 volts (under load...headlights + A/C and blower)
Battery seems healthy. I'm getting +1.17 volts from the alternator. Doesn't seem out of bounds...maybe a hair low but not deadly. Still no radio, dome lights, engine compartment light, and electric side mirrors. I'm stumped. Never seen this before.
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