Small wick holes are terrible. Takes forever just to jam the stainless steel in there.
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Soooooo I just made a ceramic wick set up last night. I'm am pretty happy with the performance. Not a hot spot in site first try. And they are a bit fragile but just need to be light handed. Coiled it while in AGA. 32g 4/5 at 1.9ohm. Good stuff. Next wick will be 28g. I had no break in and no chalky taste.
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Cool! Can't wait to try that SS cable. Xfoo hasn't been back to report on his experiments, has he?
The ss cable ROCKS with ultra low resistance coils. Since the cable is solid steel, it is very much a heat sink and will absorb a lot of energy and pass it to the deck, making it hot. When I wrap a .7-.9 ohm coil, it heats up so fast, there's no time for the cable to suck up wasted energy. When my coils were 1-1.2ohms, they took a while to heat up before producing a good vape. After a few pulls, the deck would be pretty hot and the vape was inconsistent. The wicking ability is consistently good in any scenario. Better than mesh wicks. I don't know how these will do with vv and higher resistance wire. It may be alright. All I know is your coils need to be set up so they get hot faster than the cable can cool them. I only use my gennys on mechs so YMMV.
X..which PV's are you using? Don't most PVs have a lower limit on resisitance? I don't have a mech so I'm not sure how those operate. I'm assuming those do not have lower limits.
What is a good, dependable, relatively simple RBA that would be a good first RBA for someone who has never tried one?
This would be for someone (me) who has neither the time nor the patience for futzing around with trial and error stuff, or stuff that leaks.
This would be for someone (me) who has neither the time nor the patience for futzing around with trial and error stuff, or stuff that leaks.
The Phoenix XL version is a good starter for a Dripping RBA. The RSST from Smoktech seems to be perfectly setup for a rookie RBA enthusiast in the tank section. It has a spring loaded centre post and insulation around the wick hole, two of the worst areas for shorts in RBA tanks.
Mechanical mods are exactly that, purely mechanical. There's a tube, a positive contact to the connector, and a switch that makes contact with the negative post completing a circuit. There are no wires whatsoever. The battery is fired at whatever voltage it has available. So a fully charged battery fires at around 4.2 volts and will decrease in voltage as it is consumed. Wattage is dependent on the resistance of the atomizer and the condition of the battery. Nothing "breaks" on a mech. Everything is replaceable and fixable from machine parts. They only require regular cleaning of the contacts and threads. There is no protection or regulation in a mech mod. Protection comes from either the presence of a "hot spring" (which collapses in the event of a hard short), a fuse like the VapeSafe, or the use of protected batteries. The latter is not a good solution in that protected batteries can't handle high amp drain like safer chemistry IMR batteries can. It's always best to use highly rated IMR batteries (like AW or MNKE) and use safe practices when making coils.
There are other mods which are unregulated, like the Bolt, that behave similarly in practice, but those contain wires in the button switch and are not considered "mechanical". The switches and solder connections in unregulated mods like the Bolt are not made to handle high amp pulls and can short out. This is why mech mods are the way to go when using coils at or below 1 ohm.
Right now the mechs I own are the EA Mod, a Chi_You, and a cheap Sigelei mech from a co-op which I am in the process of fixing up to higher specs.
I have Vamos and eGos for my carto, dripping, and travel needs.
That's good to hear XFoo! Maybe the higher ohm coils will do better with higher voltages? I think my Vamo starts going funky when I use even 1.5 ohm. It seems to hit ok a couple times then it won't fire any more. I set it down a minute go back and it fires again. Like it gets too hot and has to cool down for a minute before firing again.
Should have wick, wire and cable in a couple days, so I'll be playing around with it too.
EDIT: XFoo, you wouldn't happen to have a picture of yours handy, would you?
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Thanks X. I knew what a mech mod was but not sure how they handled low resistance limits. You answered...they don't. They couldn't care less what the resisitance is. Thanks. Some of these low res attys you are using could be used on only mods (that I can see).
In short then General, mechanical mods are the ONLY type that will fire a super low resistance coil. APVs such the Vamo & Provari can't. (Just to clarify that we're all on the same Page, meaning, me
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What are you doing to the Sigelei exactly? I just got one in the co-op as well but haven't had a chance to set it up yet. It's my first mechanical mod so I'm taking it slow so I don't fry anything. I know guys are sanding the contacts to expose the brass. Are you modifying the button in any way? Changing out the negative spring?
Where are you guys getting your ceramic wicks from? I want to try the SS rope wick, but it sounds like ceramic may be better for the genny I'm using on my ProVari at higher ohms (1.6-2.0).
Another question, for those who use Oddy-style RBAs. I just picked up a Killer 705 and need to get some NR wire. A few places I've seen have different diameter NR wire available. How do I know what diameter to use? With kanthal the diameter determines the resistance, but with NR it shouldn't make a difference. Do I match it to my kanthal?
R
*RJ*
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So I've got nic base coming this week. I plan on getting amber glass bottles. Anybody have any recommendations of a cheap place to get them? What size? I was going to get 8 oz, but I'm thinking now of getting 4 oz for easier use when I have to pull one out of the freezer for mixing. This will be my last purchase of vape gear for quite some time. But I will get HHV juice! I'm ready for anything now. Doomsdayer? Nah, well sort of, but I'm also addicted to nicotine!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Sunburst Bottle - Glass, Plastic, & Metal Containers I've gotten bottles from them and will definitely again the future.. I've also gotten from amazon but I think overall sunburst is much much cheaper.
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*RJ*
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Wow, shipped in only 4 days!!!! Guess that's what I paid for, eh? SS cable is here already - I got a couple pieces of mesh and some Nichrome 32g I can use on the end and for the coil. Now, how to cut it - dremel grinder or hack saw?
I'm going to replace the button with an EA Mod button (which is made entirely of brass and fits the Sigelei body). I will then cut a center axis from a brass rod to replace the cruddy negative post job Sigelei did. It will be a simple brass axis, insulated from the bottom cap, and will only contact the battery and the button pin when fired. I will replace the positive pin with a solid brass M3 bolt. I've already stripped the top and bottom caps to brass. When all is done, it should be a great little device. Right now, it's junk with potential.
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