Let's talk hardware

[XfooYen]

Had to go in and read some of the earlier threads on ppl trying the ss cable. Lol. So X I get the whole idea now. If I were to try this one, what size cable you finding the best to work with and two is this going to create a headache on my provari. I gotta try and get at least 1.3ohms or I'm already expecting it to throw errors at me. I have a zmax. I've never messed with it and the genny so I'm not sure if it's as fidgety as the provari on low resistance.

Sent from Galaxy Note 2 via Tapatalk 2.

I use 3/32" dia., 7x7 strand, non-galvanized stainless steel cable. The thickness of the cable depends on the size of your wick hole. Some holes can only accommodate 1/16" cable. Some people drill out the wick hole to fit a 1/8 cable. I find 3/32 perfect for the AGA-T and RSST gennies. As for it working on your Provari, that is entirely dependent on the resistance of the coil; something you have control over. Just make sure your coil reads above 1.2ohms, and you're golden. In fact, using cable as a wick is less of a headache than rolling mesh wicks. SS cable wicks faster than mesh and at a predictable rate. The cable lasts a real long time. I have cable wick 3 months old and functions like the day I cut it. Using silica sleeving under the coil has several advantages over mesh. Now I will go into one of my notoriously detailed explanations.

Steel cable, because it is so solid, tends to act as a heat sink when the coils are firing. This draws energy away from the coil and spreads it down the wick and into the deck. The result is a hotter than usual deck and top cap, and a less than efficient coil. At ultra sub-ohms, it is less noticeable since the coils heat so quickly, but on coils above 0.9ohms, the heat sink effect is a performance drain. Well, we want all that energy to stay where it can be utilized; at the coil. This is where silica sleeving comes in. By using the silica as a buffer between the coil and the cable, the energy from the wire is kept (mostly) at the top of the wick. The silica insulates the cable keeping the heat from passing too quickly through it. The result is a more efficient coil. More vapor and quicker response time.

Another positive byproduct of the silica "diaper", as it is known, is the elimination of hot spots or shorts. The wire never touches metal other than the positive and negative connectors. It heats evenly every time without the need for "pulsing" or working out hot spots as we do when using mesh. If the cable is properly insulated, it also doesn't matter if your wick touches metal inside the tank. It won't create a short circuit.

Lastly, the silica is very absorbent. This property allows it to act as a sponge, keeping more liquid at the coil level rather than all over the deck or running back down the wick. The result here is a very moist vapor with more flavor. It also keeps the deck relatively clear of seepage and condensation. Silica also doesn't impart any off flavor (provided it is washed prior to first use), and there is virtually no "break-in time" needed. About ten drags and you're at full flavor.

I loves me some silica diaper around cable wicks.

 

[XfooYen]

Say X...when I initially tested my resistance on my new genny wick/coil, I came up with 1.2ohms. Sometimes I would get 1.3, other times 1.1 but it liked 1.2 the most (on my Provari). I checked it frequently throughout the first tank of liquid and it seemed to hang on to that 1.2 reading. I'm on my second tank now and it reads 1.7ohms. Now I'm at 1.5 ohms. Pretty jumpy if you as me. Any thoughts? I'm wondering if my ss mesh wick is brushing the bottom of the tank.

That's a short somewhere. It can be anywhere. Too tight of a wrap, too loose of a connection, wick touching the positive post, wick touching metal inside the tank. The resistance shouldn't jump around. At most it will raise 0.1-0.3 ohms over time as the wire gets insulated with carbon. In any other case, I would suspect a flaw in the build. Many find it is totally unnecessary to have the wick run the depth of the tank. Some actually just have it extend 1/4" inside the tank and tilt when it needs juice. The cable's wicking ability is greatest near the top, anyway. Just as well, you're likely going to benefit from re-doing that coil.

 

[DantesInferno]

I use 3/32" dia., 7x7 strand, non-galvanized stainless steel cable. The thickness of the cable depends on the size of your wick hole. Some holes can only accommodate 1/16" cable. Some people drill out the wick hole to fit a 1/8 cable. I find 3/32 perfect for the AGA-T and RSST gennies. As for it working on your Provari, that is entirely dependent on the resistance of the coil; something you have control over. Just make sure your coil reads above 1.2ohms, and you're golden. In fact, using cable as a wick is less of a headache than rolling mesh wicks. SS cable wicks faster than mesh and at a predictable rate. The cable lasts a real long time. I have cable wick 3 months old and functions like the day I cut it. Using silica sleeving under the coil has several advantages over mesh. Now I will go into one of my notoriously detailed explanations.

Steel cable, because it is so solid, tends to act as a heat sink when the coils are firing. This draws energy away from the coil and spreads it down the wick and into the deck. The result is a hotter than usual deck and top cap, and a less than efficient coil. At ultra sub-ohms, it is less noticeable since the coils heat so quickly, but on coils above 0.9ohms, the heat sink effect is a performance drain. Well, we want all that energy to stay where it can be utilized; at the coil. This is where silica sleeving comes in. By using the silica as a buffer between the coil and the cable, the energy from the wire is kept (mostly) at the top of the wick. The silica insulates the cable keeping the heat from passing too quickly through it. The result is a more efficient coil. More vapor and quicker response time.

Another positive byproduct of the silica "diaper", as it is known, is the elimination of hot spots or shorts. The wire never touches metal other than the positive and negative connectors. It heats evenly every time without the need for "pulsing" or working out hot spots as we do when using mesh. If the cable is properly insulated, it also doesn't matter if your wick touches metal inside the tank. It won't create a short circuit.

Lastly, the silica is very absorbent. This property allows it to act as a sponge, keeping more liquid at the coil level rather than all over the deck or running back down the wick. The result here is a very moist vapor with more flavor. It also keeps the deck relatively clear of seepage and condensation. Silica also doesn't impart any off flavor (provided it is washed prior to first use), and there is virtually no "break-in time" needed. About ten drags and you're at full flavor.

I loves me some silica diaper around cable wicks.

That could single handedly be the best, most informative response I've ever had on this forum. Lol. Awesomeness X. Ok the silica "diaper"? Are you using plain ole silica then unraveling it a bit to wrap it around the cable? I'm guessing on its own even wrapping 1mm silica around the cable would create too large of a wick to end up with LR as a end result. I typically use 32AWG kanthal. That gonna jive with these?

Sent from Galaxy Note 2 via Tapatalk 2.

 

[XfooYen]

That could single handedly be the best, most informative response I've ever had on this forum. Lol. Awesomeness X. Ok the silica "diaper"? Are you using plain ole silica then unraveling it a bit to wrap it around the cable? I'm guessing on its own even wrapping 1mm silica around the cable would create too large of a wick to end up with LR as a end result. I typically use 32AWG kanthal. That gonna jive with these?

Sent from Galaxy Note 2 via Tapatalk 2.

The silica has no effect on the resistance of your coil other than that it makes the wick wider. Your resistance is measured by the amount (length) of Kanthal you use, and nothing more. The silica used in this application is silica sleeving. It is braided, hollow silica tubing. Vendors are selling it. I get mine from Kidney Puncher. The XS-18 is the size to use for 3/32 cable. If you use 1/16 cable, then use the XS-116. It's expensive retail, but we're only talking about using 1/2" of silica per wick.

 

[DantesInferno]

The silica has no effect on the resistance of your coil other than that it makes the wick wider. Your resistance is measured by the amount (length) of Kanthal you use, and nothing more. The silica used in this application is silica sleeving. It is braided, hollow silica tubing. Vendors are selling it. I get mine from Kidney Puncher. The XS-18 is the size to use for 3/32 cable. If you use 1/16 cable, then use the XS-116. It's expensive retail, but we're only talking about using 1/2" of silica per wick.

Ya I was aware of that. It was the thickness of it I was referring to. Crap didn't know there was such a thing a silica sleeve. Lol. Ok so I'm easily convinced. Order placed for all the above. Got some 1/16 inch in the 7 x 19 to try as well. So when it all gets here I'll let you know how it goes.

Sent from Galaxy Note 2 via Tapatalk 2.

 

[Schnarph]

I still haven't heard anything to confirm that SS cable wicks 100% VG better than mesh or the eagerly awaited BD13. I have years worth of SS mesh, but I'm willing to try anything once (vaping related only). Once the 1st of July comes around ($!), I might place an order for even more wicking material. BD13 is taking far too long to hit the market and you guys seem to love the SS cable wick, I may succumb to peer pressure.

I'm still on the hunt for an inline voltmeter. It looks like I have to make my own, or a way to use a DMM. Both options are within my capabilities, the latter being more cost effective since I already own the parts.

More than one mod/APV I own feels hot at the bottom cap when vaping, using coils in the "safe" range (1.8-2.5ohms). I would love to make my own hot springs, but a vendor source would be very helpful. Replacing the springs in all my mods/APVs would be best, and I am looking at making more copper pipe mods very soon. I'll need a half dozen, at least.

Many of these posts could be PM's to Xfoo, but I figure it helps more than one person if it's posted here. Sorry for the all the work Xfoo, your knowledge is always appreciated.

 

[xjonquilx]

I have a matte silver Evic and a black chrome Vape-Pro for backup and switch between an Odyssey cart tank and a Vision Vivi Nova tank w/ various aluminum and STV tubes.

The Evic has a sexy, compact, light weight design and satisfies my love for high tech gadgetry. It also gives a very nice smooth and consistent vape, which is why it's my main APV.

The Vape-Pro is my backup because it's a solid chunk of steel and very trustworthy should anything happen to the Evic. It also has most of the same functions and displays that the Evic does, just minus the MVR, timer, and sleep settings. It's not so bad looking itself, although it sports a much heavier feel than the Evic, probably due to the body differences.

I'm wanting to get a tank with a rebuildable atty so I can start wrapping my own. I'm also dying for a new RBT that's easy like the Vivi Nova but can't seem to settle on any. The Kanger Pro tank looks intriguing but I see a lot of complaints about the air flow, and I don't like airy vapes. And well, I'm always on the lookout for drip tips that are unique looking and/or extra comfortable to use. Recently I've been really digging the Pawn and Lolita styles of drip tips.

 

[Chakris]

I have a matte silver Evic and a black chrome Vape-Pro for backup and switch between an Odyssey cart tank and a Vision Vivi Nova tank w/ various aluminum and STV tubes.

The Evic has a sexy, compact, light weight design and satisfies my love for high tech gadgetry. It also gives a very nice smooth and consistent vape, which is why it's my main APV.

The Vape-Pro is my backup because it's a solid chunk of steel and very trustworthy should anything happen to the Evic. It also has most of the same functions and displays that the Evic does, just minus the MVR, timer, and sleep settings. It's not so bad looking itself, although it sports a much heavier feel than the Evic, probably due to the body differences.

I'm wanting to get a tank with a rebuildable atty so I can start wrapping my own. I'm also dying for a new RBT that's easy like the Vivi Nova but can't seem to settle on any. The Kanger Pro tank looks intriguing but I see a lot of complaints about the air flow, and I don't like airy vapes. And well, I'm always on the lookout for drip tips that are unique looking and/or extra comfortable to use. Recently I've been really digging the Pawn and Lolita styles of drip tips.

Hello xjonquilx, welcome to the Army! One of my first mecks was the Stainless Steal Odyssey from Totally Wicked. I had problems with the cartos that they were selling with the device at that time and stopped using it. I hear now that they have changed to Boge cartos and have had much better results. Have you had any problems with the Odyssey cartos?

 

[Bronze]

That's a short somewhere. It can be anywhere. Too tight of a wrap, too loose of a connection, wick touching the positive post, wick touching metal inside the tank. The resistance shouldn't jump around. At most it will raise 0.1-0.3 ohms over time as the wire gets insulated with carbon. In any other case, I would suspect a flaw in the build. Many find it is totally unnecessary to have the wick run the depth of the tank. Some actually just have it extend 1/4" inside the tank and tilt when it needs juice. The cable's wicking ability is greatest near the top, anyway. Just as well, you're likely going to benefit from re-doing that coil.

Thanks X. I'll recoil. I also notice the top three wraps on the coil are crudded up with juice and the bottom wrap is clean as a whistle.

 

[Bronze]

That's a short somewhere. It can be anywhere. Too tight of a wrap, too loose of a connection, wick touching the positive post, wick touching metal inside the tank. The resistance shouldn't jump around. At most it will raise 0.1-0.3 ohms over time as the wire gets insulated with carbon. In any other case, I would suspect a flaw in the build. Many find it is totally unnecessary to have the wick run the depth of the tank. Some actually just have it extend 1/4" inside the tank and tilt when it needs juice. The cable's wicking ability is greatest near the top, anyway. Just as well, you're likely going to benefit from re-doing that coil.

UPDATE: Recoiled the ss wick. Shortened the wick a smidge. Hotspots out. Producing nice vape. It's holding at 1.1 ohms (on the Provari). I'll keep an eye on it.

 

[XfooYen]

Thanks X. I'll recoil. I also notice the top three wraps on the coil are crudded up with juice and the bottom wrap is clean as a whistle.

Pretty common on the AGA-T. The bottom coil usually laggs. You can do a dry burn to get rid of the crud. Just remove the juice with a syringe and pulse until you can hold the fire button to get an even glow. Get all those coils red hot until the wick glows as well. Then, brush or blow off the crud. Once the coils are cleaned, you can see if you have any hot areas. Ideally, your coils should glow from the center out to the leads. If the top glows first, it may be a soft short leading to a hot top leg. AGA-Ts are very prone to the top hot leg syndrome. Since you're using mesh, next time you wrap, lean the wick as close to the positive post as possible. Almost touching. 1mm max distance from the wick to the positive post. That can solve your top hot spots. It's hard to avoid, but when tightening the positive nut, be sure it's not pulling tension on the top coil. That can make the top coil too tight and cause uneven burning.

 

[Bronze]

Pretty common on the AGA-T. The bottom coil usually laggs. You can do a dry burn to get rid of the crud. Just remove the juice with a syringe and pulse until you can hold the fire button to get an even glow. Get all those coils red hot until the wick glows as well. Then, brush or blow off the crud. Once the coils are cleaned, you can see if you have any hot areas. Ideally, your coils should glow from the center out to the leads. If the top glows first, it may be a soft short leading to a hot top leg. AGA-Ts are very prone to the top hot leg syndrome. Since you're using mesh, next time you wrap, lean the wick as close to the positive post as possible. Almost touching. 1mm max distance from the wick to the positive post. That can solve your top hot spots. It's hard to avoid, but when tightening the positive nut, be sure it's not pulling tension on the top coil. That can make the top coil too tight and cause uneven burning.

Excellent tips. Thanks, X. Yes, I noticed the top wrap tends to want to fire first on this T+. My last adjustment I was able to get the center to fire up first (I'd rather be lucky than good). I have the wick leaning toward the positive post but I know I have more space to work with. Next time I recoil I will lean it a little further. We'll see how long I can go with this setup.

What kind of cleaning regimen do you prefer on the AGA? You already explained the dry burn. Anything else? Thanks.

 

[XfooYen]

Rule of thumb with gennys: If it works, don't fix it. Don't touch it. Don't nudge it. Don't even look at it funny.

 

[Bronze]

Rule of thumb with gennys: If it works, don't fix it. Don't touch it. Don't nudge it. Don't even look at it funny.

I learned that rule quite quick. I just need it to "work" first...consistently anyway.

We'll get there. And when I do I wont even look at it.

 

[Schnarph]

For those of you that are looking to purchase the RichMan's RBA, wait. For those of you that have, take the cap off and set it next to the tank at the same height it would be when installed and look at the air hole placement. Sucks huh? The hole is just a hair above the deck, which explains the juice weeping/leaking out that I noticed and so have most owners. Stick an AGA-T cap on top if you have one and give it a try. It was night and day for me. The maker is talking about free or very discounted replacement caps for RichMan RBA owners, as well as a hybrid coming out in a month or 2. I hope he has better luck than Sigelei with his hybrid, Sigelei switches are notoriously bad.

 

[XfooYen]

For those of you that are looking to purchase the RichMan's RBA, wait. For those of you that have, take the cap off and set it next to the tank at the same height it would be when installed and look at the air hole placement. Sucks huh? The hole is just a hair above the deck, which explains the juice weeping/leaking out that I noticed and so have most owners. Stick an AGA-T cap on top if you have one and give it a try. It was night and day for me. The maker is talking about free or very discounted replacement caps for RichMan RBA owners, as well as a hybrid coming out in a month or 2. I hope he has better luck than Sigelei with his hybrid, Sigelei switches are notoriously bad.

The air hole in genesis attys typically sit just above the deck line. This is a good placement for a single hole genny because the air is pulled upwards as it enters the cap. If the air hole is raised to, say, the center of the coil, then you get less vapor and a dull hit. When the AGA-T first came out, new genny users complained to Youde to raise the hole. They did in future releases, but only by about 1/2mm. The only way an air hole should be considered too low is if you can see the deck from outside the cap looking in through it. If the hole clears the deck, it is fine. Really.

 

[Schnarph]

The air hole in genesis attys typically sit just above the deck line. This is a good placement for a single hole genny because the air is pulled upwards as it enters the cap. If the air hole is raised to, say, the center of the coil, then you get less vapor and a dull hit. When the AGA-T first came out, new genny users complained to Youde to raise the hole. They did in future releases, but only by about 1/2mm. The only way an air hole should be considered too low is if you can see the deck from outside the cap looking in through it. If the hole clears the deck, it is fine. Really.

I get that. I didn't start a complaint thread on the design, customers are pretty vocal about this already. I'm just saying that it's such a problem that the designer is trying to come up with free replacements. It's pretty bad as is, the complaints are up there with Sigelei switch issues. If there's even a hint of juice on the deck it comes out the hole, it only needs to go up 1mm. If you tried to drill the airhole out to 1.5mm you would looking at .25mm of deck. AGA-T holes are about 2mm higher than this one, with the same deck height. Don't buy one yet if you're looking at getting one is all I'm saying. There will be a V2 soon.

 

[XfooYen]

I get that. I didn't start a complaint thread on the design, customers are pretty vocal about this already. I'm just saying that it's such a problem that the designer is trying to come up with free replacements. It's pretty bad as is, the complaints are up there with Sigelei switch issues. If there's even a hint of juice on the deck it comes out the hole, it only needs to go up 1mm. If you tried to drill the airhole out to 1.5mm you would looking at .25mm of deck. AGA-T holes are about 2mm higher than this one, with the same deck height. Don't buy one yet if you're looking at getting one is all I'm saying. There will be a V2 soon.

Don't need any more gennys for me. I'm getting more into the Kayfun right now anyway. It's good that the vendor is making things right.

 

[Chakris]

For those of you that are looking to purchase the RichMan's RBA, wait. For those of you that have, take the cap off and set it next to the tank at the same height it would be when installed and look at the air hole placement. Sucks huh? The hole is just a hair above the deck, which explains the juice weeping/leaking out that I noticed and so have most owners. Stick an AGA-T cap on top if you have one and give it a try. It was night and day for me. The maker is talking about free or very discounted replacement caps for RichMan RBA owners, as well as a hybrid coming out in a month or 2. I hope he has better luck than Sigelei with his hybrid, Sigelei switches are notoriously bad.

Wonder if I will have the same problem, it just shipped a day or two ago.

 

[Frantic9k]

Oh no! I'm getting Mech Mod fever, and it's setting in pretty bad. To the point where I am even looking at Poldiacs, Nemesis, iHybrids. But I'm trying to tell myself to stick to a budget on this one, esp since I haven't even bought a RBA yet, but I'm about too!

I have defintely seen some interesting Mechs, but I'm defitnely remembering what X said earlier in this thread to me about "You get what you pay for" I'm defitnely doing my homework. I need to hit the lottery, I want them all! Every mod will be mine MMWWAAAHAAAHAAHAA

True story.