Let's Talk Hardware

[PapawBrett]

Not sure exactly which kayfun model you refer. The original kayfun Lite has no o-ring on the fill screw. The kayfun Lite Plus DOES have an o-ring on the fill screw. I don't know about the Kayfun 3.1.

Does this answer your question?

Yes, but I'm just about done with this Kayfun anyways. It leaks onto the top of the P3, which is unacceptable. I was burning wicks right and left, so I set a diamond dust round micro file into a Variable Speed drill, and set on slow I opened up the juice ports. Using your pictorial, I wrapped a 2.0 ohm coil that is located so close to the air port I was afraid it would short, but it didn't. But now I am getting a loud gurgle, and after each vape juice is seeping out of the exterior of the air port. I am getting none of these issues with the HCigar clone.

UPDATE : The gurgling sound has subsided, and it has stopped leaking out the air port. No dry hits yet, either. Still not thrilled with taking the KFL off and finding droplets of juice between. Anyone know what size that feed screw is ?

 

[Bronze]

Yes, but I'm just about done with this Kayfun anyways. It leaks onto the top of the P3, which is unacceptable. I was burning wicks right and left, so I set a diamond dust round micro file into a Variable Speed drill, and set on slow I opened up the juice ports. Using your pictorial, I wrapped a 2.0 ohm coil that is located so close to the air port I was afraid it would short, but it didn't. But now I am getting a loud gurgle, and after each vape juice is seeping out of the exterior of the air port. I am getting none of these issues with the HCigar clone.

I have no idea Pop. I own a SM original KFL and a SM KFL Plus and neither one has leaked a molecule of juice from anywhere ever.

As for leaking on top of the P3.

A) many people confuse leaking with condensation. What they are seeing is not e-liquid, but rather condensation. Make sure you know which one it is in your case if you don't already.
B) Some people who owned the SM original (the first ones) experienced some leaking around the fill screw. The vast majority solved the leaking by using the spare screw that came with their KFL. Others used teflon tape around the screw.

 

[Bronze]

Is this KFL from Dust?

 

[Bronze]

If you want parts specs for the KFL, PM Kiwi. He has them all. But make sure you tell him which model you have.

 

[PapawBrett]

Yes it's the one from Dusty, I believe it's the Original Svoemesto he ordered about the same time he ordered yours. Paying closer attention (like removing the KFL after ever second or third vape) the condensation appears to be originating opposite the fill port, directly beneath the air port.
Also, I have been incrementally increasing the wattage. I'm up to 10W now and no dry hits so far. Before I opened the feed ports I couldn't go above 8.4W without frying the Rayon. And I, for one, do not like the taste of burnt rayon.

 

[Bronze]

Yes it's the one from Dusty, I believe it's the Original Svoemesto he ordered about the same time he ordered yours. Paying closer attention (like removing the KFL after ever second or third vape) the condensation appears to be originating opposite the fill port, directly beneath the air port.
Also, I have been incrementally increasing the wattage. I'm up to 10W now and no dry hits so far. Before I opened the feed ports I couldn't go above 8.4W without frying the Rayon. And I, for one, do not like the taste of burnt rayon.

I never worry about the condensation. I wipe it off on my shirt whenever I pull the KFL off my P3. It's just water. Ask Dust about burning the Rayon. I'm sure this was never a problem he had. I see Dust just hopped on the Big Thread.

BTW, the original KFL had the smooth rounded drip tip. The KFL plus had a beveled lip around the top of the drip tip.

 

[Dusty_D]

Papaw, you have the original KFL.. not the Plus. I'm comfortably vaping at 12W with Rayon and no dry hits after using a file on the vertical juice channels where it enters the deck. 10W should be just just fine. The condensation is not an issue as Bronze pointed out. The best way to reduce condensation is to let go the firing button a second or so before you stop inhaling on the drip tip. This minimizes vapour in the air-ways and as a result less condensation due to vapour leaking out the air-hole.

 

[PapawBrett]

It came with a smooth rounded tip. I have since swapped with the Veritas, I like both better that way. The gurgling and leaking has stopped, maybe I just soaked the wicks a little too heavy (?). I'm up to 11W now and still no dry hits, so opening up the feeds ports seems to be working. And this Kayfun is finally starting to produce the type if vapor I want. I will probably do the same to the HCigar I have, only I'll have to go a little easier on that metal that I did on the Svoemesto Stainless.

 

[PapawBrett]

Papaw, you have the original KFL.. not the Plus. I'm comfortably vaping at 12W with Rayon and no dry hits after using a file on the vertical juice channels where it enters the deck. 10W should be just just fine. The condensation is not an issue as Bronze pointed out. The best way to reduce condensation is to let go the firing button a second or so before you stop inhaling on the drip tip. This minimizes vapour in the air-ways and as a result less condensation due to vapour leaking out the air-hole.

I opened both the vertical and horizontal ends of the juice channels. The main thing is the juice feed is finally keeping up with my vaping style, which is very reminiscent of the way I would 'puff' a tobacco pipe. I've even dropped the wattage back to 10W as I like the flavor better in that range.

 

[Dusty_D]

Can you post a picture of the tip you used to deepen the channels? I've got a dremel with 300 tips, but just did a manual with the fine files. It would be good to do it right..

 

[PapawBrett]

Does this help ?

EDIT; My Smart(er than me) Phone turned those pictures sideways. Look closely at the trigger on the drill, and you will see the Variable Speed control. I used this drill at 'crawl' speed, maybe 100 rpm if that. I would not use a single speed drill with these types of attachments for fine and/ or precise work.

 

[Dusty_D]

View attachment 406713 View attachment 406715 View attachment 406716

Does this help ?

EDIT; My Smart(er than me) Phone turned those pictures sideways. Look closely at the trigger on the drill, and you will see the Variable Speed control. I used this drill at 'crawl' speed, maybe 100 rpm if that. I would not use a single speed drill with these types of attachments for fine and/ or precise work.

I've got the Drill that does 24 speeds, and the Dremel that has adjustable speed as well. Was looking for the tip style used, and the picture definitely helps. I'll get mine re-done one of these days.. Thanks Papaw!

 

[DavidOH]

I've got the Drill that does 24 speeds, and the Dremel that has adjustable speed as well. Was looking for the tip style used, and the picture definitely helps. I'll get mine re-done one of these days.. Thanks Papaw!

You need a small engraving bit. It's what I used.

 

[retic1959]

Just spotted this thread , titanium wire for DNA40 builds , apparently it works with the temperature feature on the 40 .
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-grade-1-here-stay-me-least.html#post15102644

 

[TheKiwi]

Imma little late, but if you're looking for orings for fill screws, or even for extending 510 pins, the 1mm cross section x 2mm inner diameter is perfect. Theoringstore has it under bunaN70


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[Chakris]

Yes it's the one from Dusty, I believe it's the Original Svoemesto he ordered about the same time he ordered yours. Paying closer attention (like removing the KFL after ever second or third vape) the condensation appears to be originating opposite the fill port, directly beneath the air port.
Also, I have been incrementally increasing the wattage. I'm up to 10W now and no dry hits so far. Before I opened the feed ports I couldn't go above 8.4W without frying the Rayon. And I, for one, do not like the taste of burnt rayon.

Papaw, for condensation, I usually take the tip off, turn the KFL upside-down, then twist up some tissue and run it up the chimney. Then blow through the air intake out to the tip (this works well to clear flooding too). You can also blow from the tip out to through the air intake, but I like to keep the airflow going in the same direction it would flow if vaping - voiding build up of positive pressure in the tank. Keeping in mind to have tissue at whichever end the air is coming out. I'll usually run tissue up the drip tip as well.

 

[Chakris]

Just finished re-coiling the Rose with a vertical, twisted 30g and it's reading about 1.6 ohm. The previous coil (a single 30g) was jumping all over the place - I think I had cut the leads too short and wasn't getting a proper connection. Hoping this one is more stable than the last.

Retic, when you do the vertical coil, is your positive lead on the top or bottom?

 

[LAwaters]

First coil with 26ga in the Aqua v2. 7 wraps came in at .9 ohms. Flavor & vapor are really good. So far, it's wicking well.

26ga is a lot easier to work with than 28ga. Coil heats up quickly, and the vapor is warm but not too warm at 14W on the ZNA Lite.

26ga also holds heat longer - as I discovered when my finger brushed it during building. Yow!

Other than that mishap, I'm loving the new build.

 

[Chakris]

Is it too late/early to crack open a beer? Feel I could use one after coiling that bugger.

 

[LAwaters]

Is it too late/early to crack open a beer? Feel I could use one after coiling that bugger.

Meh - we're grown ups. We can haz beer when we want it.