Ok, finally a build for tootle puffers. I ran 28ga Kanthal A1, 9 wraps on 2.5mm, for 1.8Ω. It vapes perfectly in the green between 9 and 20 watts. I ran single coil again-- this one quite a bit smaller
-- between the posts. Dividing the (2.5mm) wick tails into the four juice ports results in some largish gaps in the deck floor. This rig will leak juice if it's laid on it's side.
I used the insert to reduce the capacity of the chuff cap-- it's a little plastic part that pushes into the middle of the chuff, held in place with o-ring friction, that reduces the air pathway to 5.9mm, see photos-- but I found the machine will not reduce air flow down to the point where it isn't too airy for MTL. It took a while to remember how to MTL. I gave that up away back when I first found a tank-- Ye Olde Protank II-- that would (marginally) accommodate direct lung. I managed it, however, and you just can't rig the draw hard enough for a good MTL hit. The fix I came up with was to wrap a piece of clear tape and completely close the air slits (a vape band would also work, but I don't have one). The air still bypasses enough to get a MTL hit out of it. I think it's coming in between the chuff cap and the top cap wall. The bottom seal of the top cap is tight enough to be juice tight, I wouldn't think any air would be getting through. It is in this MTL regime, I think, the lack of a 510 drip tip adapter is most felt. A fine diameter tip, like a Kayfun, would tighten the draw up enough for MTL without resorting to tape.
All that said, it does work very well down in the low watt regime. Flavor is excellent, even down to tiny watts, if you can squeeze the air enough to avoid swamping the vapor and provide some resistance for MTL draw. In addition to that, for low watt direct lung folks-- small cloud for at-work use, for example-- just take the tape off and it will direct lung hit very nicely with the air completely closed in the 9-20 watt range with the 1.8Ω build I have in it. Opening the air slots very slightly-- about 2mm-- provides sufficient additional make up air at 9 watts to make it vapable for me, although I do like them more freely breathing. Opening the air slots half way and running the watts to 15 makes me less unhappy I ripped out the 316SS twists a couple days back. I can vape it like that for work, no problems. Flavor across this range remains superior to excellent. At 20 watts, the build I have in it approaches 200 mW/mm² coil surface thermal flux, and this is the upper limit of where I like to hit my juice.
Bottom line: I really don't recommend this for MTL hitters. A pity, but the draw is just too airy unless you want to put a vape band over the air slots or something. That would work. Next time I message iJoy, I will suggest (among other things I think will help) adding an additional chuff insert with a much smaller hole, in the 1.5-2mm range to tighten up the draw or, better still, a similar part to accommodate a 510 drip tip. Or both.
Here's some pics: a teeny tiny build for the TPs among us:
Wicked, the tails divided, and placed in the ports. The coil is so small, I didn't bother to thin the tails:
The chuff and inserts, plus the insert installed:
Finally, a top view showing the wick gap in the ports. Yes, this one will puke juice onto the deck if laid over, and it will leak out the air slots or drip tip:
