Looking for Nerf...or how might one...
- Thread starter fonosmoak
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
The pics are on photobucket so I grabbed the circuit used for this chip. It also handles variable voltage from 4.4 to 5.2v and can manage to keep up with the drain from a 510 quite easily.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
The pics are on photobucket so I grabbed the circuit used for this chip. It also handles variable voltage from 4.4 to 5.2v and can manage to keep up with the drain from a 510 quite easily.
Hope this helps.
Ummm, ok. Looks like I still need to order some capacitors. Guess it will have to wait till next weekend.
Well?
Yeah baby!!!
It works like a champ all bare naked like, just a 14500, the gizmo, a moment switch and a after market connector in a standard AA two slot battery box...
For how long? I'll find out in time I suppose.
I'm no propeller hat wearing electro wiz but
I checked it out with my multi meter and it delivered a constant 5.01v at the connector for as long as I held the prongs to it...?
pictures by request...
Thanks Nerf
fo
Yeah baby!!!
It works like a champ all bare naked like, just a 14500, the gizmo, a moment switch and a after market connector in a standard AA two slot battery box...
For how long? I'll find out in time I suppose.
I'm no propeller hat wearing electro wiz but
I checked it out with my multi meter and it delivered a constant 5.01v at the connector for as long as I held the prongs to it...?
pictures by request...
Thanks Nerf
fo
Did you check with the atomizer attached or at the connector itself?
Regards,
I'm using cartomizers (kr808d-1) so there's simply no way I can see to check it in action...
It vapes outstandingly as it is, and well?
I remain hopeful for a long and dear relationship with it...
The proof is in the puffing and in a day or two I should have that voltage reliability question answered for you...
I'll keep you posted
Best Regards
fo
I'm using cartomizers (kr808d-1) so there's simply no way I can see to check it in action...
It vapes outstandingly as it is, and well?
I remain hopeful for a long and dear relationship with it...
The proof is in the puffing and in a day or two I should have that voltage reliability question answered for you...
I'll keep you posted
Best Regards
fo
Thanks man. If possible could you grab the atomizer resistance. I don't have any of those around and I'm kind of curious.
Sure,
I tested 5 of them and they fall in the range of 3.0 to 3.4...
Hope that helps, there's noticeable heat with the noticable increase in performance...
Think I'll order a few more 145000, this is too sweet to not to indulge it with multiple fully charged batts...
Right-on
fo
I tested 5 of them and they fall in the range of 3.0 to 3.4...
Hope that helps, there's noticeable heat with the noticable increase in performance...
Think I'll order a few more 145000, this is too sweet to not to indulge it with multiple fully charged batts...
Right-on
fo
The question so is: what is better?
a) 2 x 3.7v in series (8.4 total v) with a voltage regulator to 5v
b) 2 x 3.7v in parallel (4.2 total V but double amh) with this PTNO4050C
Which one is wasting less energy / is lasting longer / better / cooler / etc?
Depends on what kind of buck regulator. A linear buck regulator is just a self-adjusting resistor that bleeds off the surplus energy as heat, and it's at least as inefficient as your voltage step down (if you're starting at 8V and dropping to 5V, it's no more than 62.5% efficient). A switching buck regulator (turns the current on and off and then smooths it out) can be 95% efficient for small drops (less than 50%). Since a booster is doing good to reach the high 80's, the switching buck will beat the booster, which will beat the linear buck.The question so is: what is better?
a) 2 x 3.7v in series (8.4 total v) with a voltage regulator to 5v
b) 2 x 3.7v in parallel (4.2 total V but double amh) with this PTNO4050C
Which one is wasting less energy / is lasting longer / better / cooler / etc?
Another factor, however, is whether you're using two cells, or if boosting lets you use a single but larger cell. If you're choosing between two CR2's and a single 14500, go for the 14500 and a booster because the increased effective energy density will completely swamp any efficiency factors in terms of your overall battery life (two parallel CR2's = 600mAh nominal, ~300 actual, 14500 = 900mAh nominal, ~550 actual). Ditto for 2 CR123's against an 18650 (~1100 actual vs. ~1900 actual).
The only real advantage of buck regulators is that they're are smaller and simpler, especially a linear buck. But generally you're better off with a bigger cell and a booster.
As far as heat: They're all going to generate heat, and how much is a function of how efficiently they're operating. A linear buck is the worst, and a switching booster can burn itself out really quick if you don't manage the surplus. But that's more of an issue in a constant operation scenario, eCigs run at a fairly low duty cycle.
--Dave
Are you using the 04050 with a single 14500 battery? No capacitors? How long is this lasting? Pictures please!!!
Wow Dave, thank you for the explanation.
I am planning to use this battery:
Polymer Li-Ion Cell: 3.7V 1400mAh (703562-10C) 5.18Wh, 10A Drain Rate - UL Listed
I already bought two of them and the original plan was to use them in series to a linear buck (the TI one).
At this point, if I change the setup in a parallel one with this booster, I guess I will achieve better performance, right?
Well, flatpacks are a little different. On cylindrical cells the metal in the walls and caps is fairly thick, so smaller cells lose a lot of effective internal volume and bigger cells gain over them in capacity at a disproportionate rate (which is why a 14500 that is actually a little smaller than two 15266 CR2's can have nearly twice the real capacity). There's other factors as well, involving the internal components of a cell, but they also work against smaller cells. Flat-packs, on the other hand, don't have nearly as much volume tied up in their casing, their effective energy density is higher.
They also can tolerate insanely high discharge rates without damage, which is why the tiny little 220mAh flatpack in another thread can push 2A in spite of having no more capacity than a CR2.
In your particular case, a switching buck is going to be slightly more efficient than a booster. But the booster will still beat a linear buck by quite a bit. If you're putting these end to end, you might want to look at the big brother to that cell, twice as long and otherwise identical. Notice that although exactly as big as both of yours together, it only gains 200mAh over them in capacity. That shows how much more efficiently the internal volume is used in a flat-pack.
One other thing about a booster: Source voltage can generally never be higher than output voltage without Bad Things happening. So you can put out 5V, or 6V, or even 4.3V. But if you set it up for 3.6V and put freshly charged cells at 4.2V in there, you may have a successful smoke test. A switching buck can put out almost any voltage lower than the source, although you may need bigger supporting components to smooth out the voltage and efficiency will drop.
So if you want something that can run at 5V *and* 3.6V (say, for a 510 that tends to overcook the juice past 4V and would pull 2A at 5V), you'll may want a "direct drive" option switch that just supplies the cell power directly to the atomizer. You can't do that in a series circuit, although you can eat the efficiency hit and drop the voltage some more.
--Dave
They also can tolerate insanely high discharge rates without damage, which is why the tiny little 220mAh flatpack in another thread can push 2A in spite of having no more capacity than a CR2.
In your particular case, a switching buck is going to be slightly more efficient than a booster. But the booster will still beat a linear buck by quite a bit. If you're putting these end to end, you might want to look at the big brother to that cell, twice as long and otherwise identical. Notice that although exactly as big as both of yours together, it only gains 200mAh over them in capacity. That shows how much more efficiently the internal volume is used in a flat-pack.
One other thing about a booster: Source voltage can generally never be higher than output voltage without Bad Things happening. So you can put out 5V, or 6V, or even 4.3V. But if you set it up for 3.6V and put freshly charged cells at 4.2V in there, you may have a successful smoke test. A switching buck can put out almost any voltage lower than the source, although you may need bigger supporting components to smooth out the voltage and efficiency will drop.
So if you want something that can run at 5V *and* 3.6V (say, for a 510 that tends to overcook the juice past 4V and would pull 2A at 5V), you'll may want a "direct drive" option switch that just supplies the cell power directly to the atomizer. You can't do that in a series circuit, although you can eat the efficiency hit and drop the voltage some more.
--Dave
Dave, you are amazing!
Thank you for all the infos! I already bought the two batteries and now I will look in TI.com site to find this switching buck device (i use only 801, probably I will use some 901 attys that I already have but I won't use the 510 -yet-).
I'm planning to make the "perfect ecig" Since I don't care so much of the size (right now I'm vaping off a 4 AA pack with recessed atty), I found a plastic mod box a little bit longer than the 4AA pack, but a bit narrower. The plan:
- internally sealed batteries
- RCA connector for atty (801 recessed atty)
- RCA connector for RECHARGING
- 5v
- 3.5ml (maybe even 6ml, if it fits) juice tank with liquid feeding
Cool no?
Thank you for all the infos! I already bought the two batteries and now I will look in TI.com site to find this switching buck device (i use only 801, probably I will use some 901 attys that I already have but I won't use the 510 -yet-).
I'm planning to make the "perfect ecig"
Since I don't care so much of the size (right now I'm vaping off a 4 AA pack with recessed atty), I found a plastic mod box a little bit longer than the 4AA pack, but a bit narrower. The plan:- internally sealed batteries
- RCA connector for atty (801 recessed atty)
- RCA connector for RECHARGING
- 5v
- 3.5ml (maybe even 6ml, if it fits) juice tank with liquid feeding
Cool no?
Dave, RjG gave me the info on how to reduce the base voltage put out by the boost. I'm setting it to 4.4v to ensure I am above the input but out of curiosity, what are the bad things that happen when you go below input?
Sorry for taking so long to reply, but I thought it best to get a couple days in before doing so...
Well?
Hot damn !! I love this thing,
and yes, I'm using just a 14500 750mAh and nothing else...
It will only lasts about 3 hours with constant use, and it will get quite warm, this concerned me a bit day one.
However once the new of it wore off, and I fell into my normal vape mode: 5 or 6 hits put it down for three or four minutes, repeate until dizzy, take a break...etc.
I'm getting more like 4 1/2, 5 hours out of a charge.
With my 3.7v Nico Stick I never drained a battery, but would replace them early (six hours) as any good Lithium bat user should do...
I'm totally sold on this unit, and will be buying two more 14500 AW protected bats just to have plenty of back-up...
There ya go...
fo
Last edited:
Sorry for taking so long to reply, but I thought it best to get a couple days in before doing so...
Well?
Hot damn !! I love this thing,
and yes, I'm using just a 14500 750mAh and nothing else...
It will only lasts about 3 hours with constant use, and it will get quite warm, this concerned me a bit day one.
However once the new of it wore off, and I fell into my normal vape mode: 5 or 6 hits put it down for three or four minutes, repeate until dizzy, take a break...etc.
I'm getting more like 4 1/2, 5 hours out of a charge.
With my 3.7v Nico Stick I never drained a battery, but would replace them early (six hours) as any good Lithium bat user should do...
I'm totally sold on this unit, and will be buying two more 14500 AW protected bats just to have plenty of back-up...
There ya go...
fo
You convinced me...if AW bats can handle this type of abuse I'm all over it. I just put in an order for 4x18650 2600 mah AW bats that can handle a draw of 5.2 amps. After reading a bunch of battery forums, all the RC people seem to love AW and at 2C discharge is way above what I get from the DX bats which can be as low as 1.1 amps.
One thing though, the caps are extremely cheap and easy to install and there is a world of difference if you add them. The bat will last longer per charge and you will save on the life of the battery. Without them you are forcing the bat to pulse nonstop well above its threshold for damage (about 4C). Highly recommended.
Did I miss which caps I should use? I probably skipped past it in my excitement but could swear I read everything.
Those AW bats were 15 bucks each. I'm a bit excited to see how they perform.
These are the important ones:
Digi-Key - 495-1529-1-ND (Manufacturer - B45197A2107K409)
If you add this type:
Digi-Key - 490-3665-ND (Manufacturer - RPE5C2A751J2P1B03B)
It will cost 3 bucks to add 1 of each type to voltage in and voltage out. Well worth the cost.
- Status
Similar threads
