Looking for Nerf...or how might one...

[fonosmoak]

...hook up this gizmo?

Hi Nerf,

First off thanks for the info on the Texas instruments PTNO4050CAS gizmo that should boost my Nico-Stick from 3.7v to 5v. BAM just like that--fantastic.

Now all that's left is for me not to ruin it, blow it up, short it out, smooch this pooch---etc.

So, could you (or anyone) tell me which wire goes where?

I'm truly thankful for the help and a bit embarrassed not to be able to figure it out for myself...

Thanks man
Best Regards
fo

 

[firhill]

Click on datasheet

 

[Lucacri]

Did I miss something? How do I get one of these and why are they better than a voltage regulator?

 

[firhill]

A regulator drops the output voltage, these will increase the output voltage.

These will increase your input voltage of anywhere beween 3V and 5.5V to an output voltage of anywhere from 5V to 15V.

Allows you to vape at 4.5V/5V/6V etc...by using a 3V or 3.6V/3.7V single battery as your supply.

TI will send you (4)of the PTN04050Cxx as (free) samples. Using the capacitors shown (on both input and output sides) is a must, as is the setV resistor.

 

[opuscroakus]

A regulator drops the output voltage, these will increase the output voltage.

These will increase your input voltage of anywhere beween 3V and 5.5V to an output voltage of anywhere from 5V to 15V.

Allows you to vape at 4.5V/5V/6V etc...by using a 3V or 3.6V/3.7V single battery as your supply.

TI will send you (4)of the PTN04050Cxx as (free) samples. Using the capacitors shown (on both input and output sides) is a must, as is the setV resistor.

Will these capacitors work

100µF 50V 20% Radial-lead Electrolytic Capacitor - RadioShack.com

Also, the only way I could get 4 was to get one of each type available.

Reading the spec sheet, if you don't use a resistor it defaults to 5v.

 

[Dave Rickey]

Will these capacitors work

100µF 50V 20% Radial-lead Electrolytic Capacitor - RadioShack.com

Also, the only way I could get 4 was to get one of each type available.

Reading the spec sheet, if you don't use a resistor it defaults to 5v.

They're all electronically the same thing with slightly different mounting options. Getting one of each is how you get 4.

--Dave

EDIT: Also, since Vin minimum is 2.9V (and they will cut off if it falls under that) it effectively gives you another level of undervoltage protection.

--Dave

 

[Lucacri]

Thank you for the answers.
I am planning to use two flat cell batteries (3.7v each @1400mah with 10C discharge) in serial and a TI voltage regulator to drop the voltage at 5v. I am already doing it with two 14500 while I wait for the batteries to arrive.

If I change the schema by using the two batteries in serial to power this "voltage booster", will I gain something?
Basically the question is: with two batteries, which layout is more efficient to achieve a 5v output?

 

[Kewtsquirrel]

Ground (negative battery) to the 1, positive to the one directly below it. Voltage out (5v positive wire) is the one adjacent to the 1, top right corner. You can leave the #3 pin alone, and I'd be very careful boosting above 5 volts. The unit is only designed to handle 12 watts, and 6v on a 510 would exceed that. 6v on a 901 or 801 *should* be OK, but it's still getting close, anything over 6v is a no-go for any atomizers period with this unit.

 

[Kewtsquirrel]

Thank you for the answers.
I am planning to use two flat cell batteries (3.7v each @1400mah with 10C discharge) in serial and a TI voltage regulator to drop the voltage at 5v. I am already doing it with two 14500 while I wait for the batteries to arrive.

If I change the schema by using the two batteries in serial to power this "voltage booster", will I gain something?
Basically the question is: with two batteries, which layout is more efficient to achieve a 5v output?

Using 2 3.7v batteries in series will destroy this unit, as its max Vin is only 5.5v.

 

[Cisco]

Thank you for the answers.
I am planning to use two flat cell batteries (3.7v each @1400mah with 10C discharge) in serial and a TI voltage regulator to drop the voltage at 5v. I am already doing it with two 14500 while I wait for the batteries to arrive.

If I change the schema by using the two batteries in serial to power this "voltage booster", will I gain something?
Basically the question is: with two batteries, which layout is more efficient to achieve a 5v output?

The Vin range for a PTNO4050C is (2.95 V to 5.5 V), 2 3.7v li-ion cells in series will have a full charge voltage of 8.4, way beyond the max limit, I would consider 2 cells in parallel.

Cisco...

 

[Lazarus]

There is no size comparison in these photos, how big are these things? What do they fit into, mod wise???

 

[Cisco]

There is no size comparison in these photos, how big are these things? What do they fit into, mod wise???

http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ptn04050c.pdf


Page 15


I would think a box style mod, 7/8" x 1/2" x 1/2" thick

Cisco...

 

[Lazarus]

Thanks, Cisco.

Will try this out in my next box mod.

 

[fonosmoak]

Ground (negative battery) to the 1, positive to the one directly below it. Voltage out (5v positive wire) is the one adjacent to the 1, top right corner. You can leave the #3 pin alone, and I'd be very careful boosting above 5 volts. The unit is only designed to handle 12 watts, and 6v on a 510 would exceed that. 6v on a 901 or 801 *should* be OK, but it's still getting close, anything over 6v is a no-go for any atomizers period with this unit.

Thanks Nerf,

I think I've got it---

I need the two capacitors, one to bridge the + and - before the gizmo and one to bridge the positive and negative leads post gizmo...

This all seems very strange to me, but then again I know nothing about these circuits.


Can I get a go man go?

And thanks again...
fo

 

[Dave Rickey]

Just FYI, the capacitors are used to ground out high-frequency noise, if these are the only IC's in the whole device you can potentially eliminate them (your heating coil isn't going to care if there's HF wobble or spikes in the output, and LED's probably won't care either). There's a reason they didn't mount those caps in the first place.

--Dave

 

[fonosmoak]

Ok,

Sounds good, screw the capacitors, and the resistor---full speed ahead, I'm off to Rat Shack for the DC type N connector that's a perfect match for KR808D-1, and that wimpy little black moment switch, a bat box and what else?

That's it !!!

One 5v.--- 3.7v. 14500 battery powered Nico stick is about two hours or so away...got a do the Ham and eggs thing first.

Thanks All
fo

 

[Robert]

How much is run time decreased when you take a 3.7 v bat to 5 volts ?

What are the dementions?

 

[Nuck]

Few things...the 14500 won't be able to drive this reliably and you absolutely NEED the low ESR caps. I've spent a ton of times playing with this chip and without the caps your voltage will be extremely erratic and the protection on the bat will be kickin in like mad.

The 18500 is borderline and the 18650 works sweet.

If you want it to be very consistent also add the 22uF ceramic caps to the input and output. It makes a very noticeable difference.

 

[opuscroakus]

Nuck, since you have spent some time with this chip, could you post some pictures of it and the capacitors soldered up the proper way? I'm an SQL/DB programmer and this electricity stuff is a little too confusing.

 

[Nuck]

Nuck, since you have spent some time with this chip, could you post some pictures of it and the capacitors soldered up the proper way? I'm an SQL/DB programmer and this electricity stuff is a little too confusing.

I have a full walkthrough of a mod that uses this chip with a 18650 and a fistpack that shows step by step but its on another forum that I can't link to on this one. If you know the banned forum I'm speaking of you can check it out. If not, let me know and I can post a really simple test circuit Ive been using to test bat performance and base voltage adjustments.