- Status
thanks again. im gonna try the reader (not sure i understood how)
last night i fried an atty and was craving for a vaping i got the soldering iron between my fingers. ended giving up... im gonna stick on 3.7v for now, i guess
last night i fried an atty and was craving for a vaping i got the soldering iron between my fingers. ended giving up... im gonna stick on 3.7v for now, i guess
thanks again. im gonna try the reader (not sure i understood how)
last night i fried an atty and was craving for a vaping i got the soldering iron between my fingers. ended giving up... im gonna stick on 3.7v for now, i guess
Just some FYI...... when I first used my 5volt I thought I fried the atomizer too but on further inspection, it still worked fine.
I had decided to tear the atty apart. I turned the bridge with a pair of tweezers and found the whole inside would turn. For some reason, I then tried the atty again and it worked.
A lot of attys apparently seem to die but dead they are not! They are just playing possum.
Can into the somewhat late but want to make sure I've read things correctly. I can get the 5A regulator, wire it as the diagrams here or the madvapes website and use either 2x3.7V batteries for a 5V vape or a single 3.7V battery and get a 3.6V vape? I.e. I can get a 3xAAA box and then use 1 10440 and a dummy cell for 3.6V or 2x 10440 and get 5V vape? And with the regulator I can get any amperage rated switch, even things like 50mah, instead of 3+ Amp rated ones?
I just get a wooden dowel of the appropriate size, drill a hole through it, then screw a long bolt through the hole, tighten it down with a nut, then dremel off the excess and round out that side for "positive" connection. You can make tons of spacers for just a few bucks this way. Plus you get the benefit of being able to make custom spacers. For example, I needed a spacer that would let me put an 14650 cell in place of two 14500s, so I just made one of the correct size -- I don't think you can even buy one like that.
this is not right? the regulator should go after the momentary switch or no?
Last edited:
misterD - Yes the switch has to go in front of the regulator. Here's your diagram with the correct ground line added to complete the circuit. Just be aware that the way you are wiring it, (with the control pin connected to Vin), you're disabling the control pin, which means the full current load is passing through the momentary switch. So make sure the switch is rated for at least 2 amps.
this is not right? the regulator should go after the momentary switch or no?
Last edited:
Here's the circuit you need misterD. Courtesy of Mark at Madvapes. Also, you can get by without the output capacitor if you don't have one on hand. It just smooths out the signal a bit. I've built them with it, and without it, and can't tell any difference. Although the longevity of the mod may be longer with it, but I can't say for sure. Maybe someone else can weigh in on that one.
Edit - If you are using one of the boxes with the master switch attached to a negative terminal instead of a positive terminal, there is a small difference. But its no big deal. Just the master switch on the other side of the battery. See Below.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Edit - If you are using one of the boxes with the master switch attached to a negative terminal instead of a positive terminal, there is a small difference. But its no big deal. Just the master switch on the other side of the battery. See Below.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Last edited:
im at work right now and the image you posted is firewalled. but if its this one im posting then i think its how i have it wired. am i missing something?
and thank you so much, EZ! ITS BECOS OF YOUR TUTORIAL THAT I BUILT MY FIRST 5V BOX
and thank you so much, EZ! ITS BECOS OF YOUR TUTORIAL THAT I BUILT MY FIRST 5V BOX
The NCP5666 would be just a bit different from the fairchild but conceptually the same.. Applying power to the control and Vin may be unpredicatable.
This is the circuit that I use with those.
hoog
This is the circuit that I use with those.
hoog
know... its weird! connman told me to wire the way your diagram show, hoogie! but i had power going on all the time like the switch wasnt working or something... could that be becos i didnt have the resistor on it?
Yup, you need that resistor between the control pin and ground for it to work properly. Otherwise it won't shut off.
And yes, the circuit you posted is the right one. Hoog posted one for your specific regulator in his above post, but electrically it's actually the exact same circuit, just drawn a bit differently to show the NCP5666 having one lead that doesn't get used. So use whichever one you feel more comfortable working with, just make sure the leads are connected properly. ie, input to input, ground to ground, output to atty, etc. Don't let the extra lead mess you up. And, umm, don't forget the resistor.
And when it's done, and working, start a new thread with some pics.
Last edited:
im waiting on some graphite powder to glue the cap on it. its such a pain to solder on alluminum! so a simple resistor make that big of a difference?
thanks, nice peeps!
thanks, nice peeps!
waiting on my stuff to attempt my first 5 volt mod.ive made 4 3.7 box mods and a pt box mod thats why i want a batt 5 volt just tastes better to me.my pt plugged in to the puter gives me 4.9 volts.ill have reg. with control pin,10uf cap.,3xaa box and i have 2 14500's.already have conn. and batt. contacts.did i miss anything?
- Status
