Mails In .... DNA20 has arrived

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bapgood

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"while I stewing in my poo and catching my breath and thoughts, I noticed the display was still on and showing "To Hot" after a few seconds it went back to normal." Smart Board that DNA20D :)

Glad everything is ok.... Did you figure out exactly what you shorted??

No....It is inside a metal case but its so tight the board won't really tilt sideways. I grabbed the foam in the middle with tweezers, but most likely I touched something I shouldn't have.
 

debook

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Glad you are ok, can be pretty scary when spif happens. Used to work as a reliability engineer where we would purposely make high power electronics fail, but in a controlled environment. It definitely gets the adrenaline flowing when the sparks fly tho...

On another note, the display on my DNA20 failed. It still fires, but can't get the display to come on at all. WTH? Nothing changed from last night to this morning except it was charged...
 

bapgood

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Glad you are ok, can be pretty scary when spif happens. Used to work as a reliability engineer where we would purposely make high power electronics fail, but in a controlled environment. It definitely gets the adrenaline flowing when the sparks fly tho...

On another note, the display on my DNA20 failed. It still fires, but can't get the display to come on at all. WTH? Nothing changed from last night to this morning except it was charged...

Thanks!

I would check for stealth mode like matador suggested, but it would be kinda hard to lock it, put into stealth mode, and unlock on accident I would think.

How is your screen/dna mounted? I would imagine it might not me to hard to disconnect the delicate ribbon connector if you are "stretching" the screen to its limits for its location.
 

bapgood

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sounds like a great idea... let us know what you decide on.... we all want to vape safe..:thumbs:

Will do. I need to pick up a mini fuse holder, but I have been trying to think of a clean way to have the fuse accessible from the out side.

I'm pretty sure breaktru and mamu both use fuses in their mods, this is just an example of why they are a great idea. (a must IMHO)
 

debook

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Just pulled it out, nothing obvious. No damaged components or obvious shorts. There is a small kink in the ribbon cable but it doesn't look delaminated or leads pulled.

Last night I had to pull it apart a bit to reflow one of the connections to the charger since it wasn't charging. Put it back together and was careful and it was working after that. Left it on the charge overnight and this morning no display. Not in stealth mode, even then it will show error messages and "Locked". I'll email Brandon and see what he wants to do. Probably something I did since I really didn't plan this one out, just kind of threw it in a box that already had a 510 and fire button. The display I just folded over and used double sided tape at 90 degrees from the PCB but was gentle with it.
 

bapgood

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maybe try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, or fuse if you used one.

I know when I was messing with mine there was a couple of times when the screen didn't come up. But after disconnecting the battery for a few, it came up when power was applied again. But I never tried to see if the DNA still worked while the display was off.
 

debook

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A PTC resettable fuse is always a good idea, I like to put a 6 or 7 amp PTC on the + of the battery as a bit of extra insurance.

The display works now out of the mod. Interesting, not a big deal as I was going to pull it anyway to build a better case for it but I wonder what caused that? Anyone else have the display just turn off completely?
 

bapgood

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Good as new :D .....I'll check with Evolv and see if I still need to send it back to have them check it out.

DF67F995-63D4-442C-823B-F272529DE963-14459-00000599A2464196.jpg
 

breaktru

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A PTC resettable fuse is always a good idea, I like to put a 6 or 7 amp PTC on the + of the battery as a bit of extra insurance.

The display works now out of the mod. Interesting, not a big deal as I was going to pull it anyway to build a better case for it but I wonder what caused that? Anyone else have the display just turn off completely?

I use two PTC's in parallel. Parallel will half the fuse resistance.

When I first started using Li-Po's I always added JST connectors but since stop using them.

During beta testing I put the DNA through extensive testing and a few times lost the display. Like Bap said, remove the power to the DNA. It worked for me. And it also worked for erratic screen behavior.
 

breaktru

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Will do. I need to pick up a mini fuse holder, but I have been trying to think of a clean way to have the fuse accessible from the out side.

I'm pretty sure breaktru and mamu both use fuses in their mods, this is just an example of why they are a great idea. (a must IMHO)

We use PTC fuses in parallel. No need to pull the fuse on a short. It will cut out and reset.
 

breaktru

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No....It is inside a metal case but its so tight the board won't really tilt sideways. I grabbed the foam in the middle with tweezers, but most likely I touched something I shouldn't have.

I've had some shoe-horn experiences w/ metal cases. It's always good to put a thin insulated material between touching components. I've used DVD case plastic, electrical tape, a dab or two of hot glue, etc... on vital areas. Encasing electrical components in hot glue is NOT a good idea. Air flow is critical.
 

in4mati0n11

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I use two PTC's in parallel. Parallel will half the fuse resistance.

When I first started using Li-Po's I always added JST connectors but since stop using them.

During beta testing I put the DNA through extensive testing and a few times lost the display. Like Bap said, remove the power to the DNA. It worked for me. And it also worked for erratic screen behavior.

Is it possible to that you could link to a recommended PTC for use? Thanks again for all of the input here...
 
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