Making a sx350 mod.

[alee132]

I am looking to put together my first mod, it being a sx350 based mod. Either with a 18650 battery or lipo. I would like to go with lipo because of the mah. But I am also trying to go with which ever route is easiest. Anyone with experience know which way is going to be easier.

I only got the chip from eciggety for like $62 after coupon. Also got a floating 510 connection on the way from ebay:

Spring Loaded 510 Connector for Mods | eBay

I am looking at enclosure's from hammond 1590B or maybe some of the already painted ones.

Also still not sure on button's yet.

I also was looking into getting a 3d printed front from bap for a 1590 hammond box that comes pre done for the sx350 from here:

https://www.shapeways.com/search?q=sx350

But they have yet to be tested. I think I would only go that route if I was going to do the lipo because I wouldn't want to open the mod from the door if the chip is attached to it. I wish there was some premade 3d printed cases for the sx350 on shapeways like there are for the dna's.

Also if I cannot go that route. What kinda tool works best for cutting the holes for the screen, button's and 510 connection's, and usb port and port led?

I know how to solder and all but this will be my first mod. I am just trying to get all the right pieces without having to buy part's I won't end up using I guess.

I want to try to get this right the first time lol. Guess I am asking for alot here.

 

[Portertown]

I am looking to put together my first mod, it being a sx350 based mod. Either with a 18650 battery or lipo. I would like to go with lipo because of the mah. But I am also trying to go with which ever route is easiest. Anyone with experience know which way is going to be easier.

I only got the chip from eciggety for like $62 after coupon. Also got a floating 510 connection on the way from ebay:

Spring Loaded 510 Connector for Mods | eBay

I am looking at enclosure's from hammond 1590B or maybe some of the already painted ones.

Also still not sure on button's yet.

I also was looking into getting a 3d printed front from bap for a 1590 hammond box that comes pre done for the sx350 from here:

https://www.shapeways.com/search?q=sx350

But they have yet to be tested. I think I would only go that route if I was going to do the lipo because I wouldn't want to open the mod from the door if the chip is attached to it. I wish there was some premade 3d printed cases for the sx350 on shapeways like there are for the dna's.

Also if I cannot go that route. What kinda tool works best for cutting the holes for the screen, button's and 510 connection's, and usb port and port led?

I know how to solder and all but this will be my first mod. I am just trying to get all the right pieces without having to buy part's I won't end up using I guess.

I want to try to get this right the first time lol. Guess I am asking for alot here.

I too am building a SX350 box mod and it too will be my first build.
I have already got my SX350 chip and my Hammond 1590BBK box(black textured finish). I looked at the lid that bapgood has listed and feel the same as you about not wanting to be removing the lid with the chip attached to replace the battery(s). I am going to be using two 18650 batteries and will remove them for charging.
What I am going to do is purchase the SX350 Bezel that Bapgood has listed on Shapeways and either mount it on the backside of the box (across from lid) or on the side of the box.(mounting on side will require the bezel to be trimmed as it is a little too wide to fit)
This bezel has the mount for the chip/board/usb, a hole for the screen and a hole for the usb port. All you have to do is cut out one rectangle hole for the bezel. The bezel has a 4mm or so lip on all four sides so the hole does not have to be exact. I have a small milling machine that I will use for cutting the hole. A drimel tool with cutters would also work. One of these can be picked up fairly cheap at Harbor Freight.
I am going to use a 510 connector from FadDaddyVapes. I have got to get my battery holders, wiring supplies, etc.
I think I am going to replace the fire switch that comes with the SX350 with a stainless steel dome style switch.
I am going to use four small magnets glued to the lid and 4 setscrews screwed into the thread bosses on the case to hold the lid without using screws. This way I can just snap the lid off to replace my batteries.
Looking forward to getting this mod built and think I will really enjoy it.
Keep us updated on your build and I will do the same.

 

[alee132]

I really like some of your idea's. I did ask bap about that bezel. He did say it was for cutting out but I wasn't sure what he mean't until now since you seem to be using it for that reason. That sounds like a good idea actually. Also I bought the fatdaddy 510 connection 3 pack as well to see if I might want to use those as well. I like the adjustable idea but I don't get how you can twist the screw out if you have a wire attached to it. I didn't think of doing 2 18650's, but that might actually give me the mah I want without having to use Lipo's. Also I have seen the magnet style used on one other mod using a hammond box and it seems to work really well. I wouldn't mind doing that as well if I am going with 18650's because I probably will be wanting to swap batteries as well. I was thinking of going with the keystone battery holder's. Which one's were you looking at? Also what screw's and magnet's were you looking at? Something local or from the inet? I was also for sure going to be removing the switch they used on the wiring they had. I was just going to cut it off and connect the switch to those same wire's. Although I have yet to decide on a switch. I am looking for a nice one that's not super small like the one's on a hana since there is only one button I was thinking a bigger one wouldn't look bad. I think one small button would look kinda odd. lol

 

[alee132]

Also if u were going to get the bezel and cut out the hole. I noticed they have a metal bezel which is the only one they make in metal. I was thinking of getting it in metal. But if I get it in plastic I don't have to worry about anything directly touching because there wouldn't be any metal. But I would think one could cover the inside with something to prevent metal from touching or wrap the chip in something to prevent this... Or maybe epoxy between the 2. Ugh. I need to start making some decision's but there are so many way's I could go with this.

 

[Portertown]

I really like some of your idea's. I did ask bap about that bezel. He did say it was for cutting out but I wasn't sure what he mean't until now since you seem to be using it for that reason. That sounds like a good idea actually. Also I bought the fatdaddy 510 connection 3 pack as well to see if I might want to use those as well. I like the adjustable idea but I don't get how you can twist the screw out if you have a wire attached to it. I didn't think of doing 2 18650's, but that might actually give me the mah I want without having to use Lipo's. Also I have seen the magnet style used on one other mod using a hammond box and it seems to work really well. I wouldn't mind doing that as well if I am going with 18650's because I probably will be wanting to swap batteries as well. I was thinking of going with the keystone battery holder's. Which one's were you looking at? Also what screw's and magnet's were you looking at? Something local or from the inet? I was also for sure going to be removing the switch they used on the wiring they had. I was just going to cut it off and connect the switch to those same wire's. Although I have yet to decide on a switch. I am looking for a nice one that's not super small like the one's on a hana since there is only one button I was thinking a bigger one wouldn't look bad. I think one small button would look kinda odd. lol

Here is a site that sells magnets. https://www.kjmagnetics.com/
I have not picked which magnets to get yet, probably 1/4 x 1/16 or something close to that.
I will just screw set screws in the box threads that the magnets will "attract" to and glue the magnets on the outside of the lid where the screw heads would normally be. I will mill the tapered holes first with an end mill so the magnets will sit flush.

Have not worked out the issue of adjustment of 510 positive post yet. Thinking about using a spring loaded pin pressed into the delrin insulator of the FatDaddyVapes connectors. Something along the lines of these. 101402-000 IDI | Mouser
The positive wire could be attached to the bottom of the pin. I will have to wait until I get the 510 connectors from FatDaddy to determine what size pins I need. FatDaddy is supposed to be selling a spring loaded 510 connector in the near future however. He is waiting on the shipment from his supplier I understand. I have seen a drawing of them, but no picture yet.

 

[Portertown]

Also if u were going to get the bezel and cut out the hole. I noticed they have a metal bezel which is the only one they make in metal. I was thinking of getting it in metal. But if I get it in plastic I don't have to worry about anything directly touching because there wouldn't be any metal. But I would think one could cover the inside with something to prevent metal from touching or wrap the chip in something to prevent this... Or maybe epoxy between the 2. Ugh. I need to start making some decision's but there are so many way's I could go with this.

I am going with the black plastic bezel as it looks like it will match my black box really good and I do not have to worry about any shorting issues. I have to figure out a way to hold the chip/board in place on the bezel. I do not want to epoxy the board to the bezel in case I need to remove it later. I have seen a lot of others just epoxy boards to hold them, but I do not want to go that route. An idea I am playing with is to use a piece of delrin that is cut to size so it would press fit in the box. I would cut the delrin to clear the components on the board, but also hold the board in the bezel. I would then mount the holders for the batteries to or into this piece of delrin depending on how thick it is. It is going to be "tight" fitting two batteries and the board in my box so I am thinking this may allow for one battery on each side of the board. This delrin would raise the center (wider section) of the batteries up so they could sit over the board some if needed. I really want to have the screen on the board in the center of the wide face of the box, not on the narrow side of the box. I also do not want any screws showing from the outside of the box. What I am trying to do is create a modular concept where everything inside the box fits together and becomes "ONE" unit without just using epoxy to "glue" everything together.
My experience is in mechanical items, not electronics, so that is probably why I am going about this build the way that I am.

 

[alee132]

Here is a site that sells magnets. https://www.kjmagnetics.com/
I have not picked which magnets to get yet, probably 1/4 x 1/16 or something close to that.
I will just screw set screws in the box threads that the magnets will "attract" to and glue the magnets on the outside of the lid where the screw heads would normally be. I will mill the tapered holes first with an end mill so the magnets will sit flush.

Have not worked out the issue of adjustment of 510 positive post yet. Thinking about using a spring loaded pin pressed into the delrin insulator of the FatDaddyVapes connectors. Something along the lines of these. 101402-000 IDI | Mouser
The positive wire could be attached to the bottom of the pin. I will have to wait until I get the 510 connectors from FatDaddy to determine what size pins I need. FatDaddy is supposed to be selling a spring loaded 510 connector in the near future however. He is waiting on the shipment from his supplier I understand. I have seen a drawing of them, but no picture yet.

Thanks for the info.

It's funny you said that about the spring loaded pin because I was looking at that earlier and I was going to buy I until I saw the 6 week wait for them to get back into stock and I searched the net for the part but couldn't find it in stock anywhere but one site in china that I wasn't sure of and another that wanted you to buy a min of 100. If you can find anywhere that has it in stock let me know because I was looking for that for an hour earlier tonight because I had saw several used in 2 different thread's here and somewhere else iirc.

Here is the est delivery time to be in stock:

Estimated Ship Date

1,186 6/9/2014

I went ahead and sent off for the nylon white bezel from bap. It will take a little time to get to me but I should have most everything else by then.

I also got the 1590b hammond box because it's got a little more room and this being my firs build I didn't want to have issues.

Also bought a single 18560 and a double 18650 holder both made by keystone. That way if I cannot end up fitting in the dual one I can go single if I have too. I ordered a couple different type switches.

I only worry about having to put the holder ontop of the chip if it's in the bezel.. I am unsure of how all part's will work out till they get to me and I can kinda see how they will all work.

I am wondering what kinda epoxy, silicone or what I can use to hold everything in place yet as well. I was wondering if you or anyone else know's what type is best to use and is safe to get on the actual chip, and other part's, and will stay put.

Oop's I just read the post above, I had missed the second one you did before I wrote this.

 

[alee132]

I am going with the black plastic bezel as it looks like it will match my black box really good and I do not have to worry about any shorting issues. I have to figure out a way to hold the chip/board in place on the bezel. I do not want to epoxy the board to the bezel in case I need to remove it later. I have seen a lot of others just epoxy boards to hold them, but I do not want to go that route. An idea I am playing with is to use a piece of delrin that is cut to size so it would press fit in the box. I would cut the delrin to clear the components on the board, but also hold the board in the bezel. I would then mount the holders for the batteries to or into this piece of delrin depending on how thick it is. It is going to be "tight" fitting two batteries and the board in my box so I am thinking this may allow for one battery on each side of the board. This delrin would raise the center (wider section) of the batteries up so they could sit over the board some if needed. I really want to have the screen on the board in the center of the wide face of the box, not on the narrow side of the box. I also do not want any screws showing from the outside of the box. What I am trying to do is create a modular concept where everything inside the box fits together and becomes "ONE" unit without just using epoxy to "glue" everything together.
My experience is in mechanical items, not electronics, so that is probably why I am going about this build the way that I am.

You have some seriously great idea's that I haven't yet seen put in place by anyone yet. I always see things glued or epoxy'd in together lol. It would be great if it could all be taken out. Esp for me since I am doing this for the first time and my guess is I will want to make a new one again and I might not want to have to get a new chip to do so. I am going to be taking my time and get this done as best I can the first time. I am not in a super rush because I have other mod's to use and other mods I am waiting for on the way. Although this will be the first one with a sx350.

 

[thelukee]

What kind of solder are you guys using and what soldering iron? It's my first diy mod. Need help.

Also, if I wanted to use a different push button than the one it comes with (because it's quite ugly), then how would I add a new one? Would I just cut that one off, strip the end of the wire, then soldering it to my new button? I'm in the dark on this one...

 

[TheBoo]

seems like everyone is using a lead free solder, solder made for electronics will be much easier to handle(usually comes coiled in a tube and feeds out from one end) i really dont see the problem with using a leaded solder, lead takes YEARS of high internal exposure (such as inhalation or ingeston) to do anything and i dont see a way for the leaded solder you used on wires in your mod to get put in your body... i guess its better safe than sorry..

my question is how in the heck are you going to fit 2 18650's in a hammond 1590a case? im going to be doing a similar build and i just dont see it...

 

[Steamer861]

I to am going to make a SX350 mod I ordered a Hammond 1590a in Orange I am just going to use 1 18650 (VTC5) I ordered this face plate from shapeways in Black https://www.shapeways.com/model/1944556/sx350-hammond-1590a-face-plate.html?li=search-results&materialId=6 I know it will house the chip but I figure I can leave the wires a little long to accommodate opening the door occasionally I plan to use the usb to charge it I am going to use a Chi You top cap 510 with the wiring left a little long I will have the slack to use the adjustable 510 on the Chi You so I get a nice flush look on all Attys I don't see the door housing the chip to be a big problem

 

[Portertown]

seems like everyone is using a lead free solder, solder made for electronics will be much easier to handle(usually comes coiled in a tube and feeds out from one end) i really dont see the problem with using a leaded solder, lead takes YEARS of high internal exposure (such as inhalation or ingeston) to do anything and i dont see a way for the leaded solder you used on wires in your mod to get put in your body... i guess its better safe than sorry..

my question is how in the heck are you going to fit 2 18650's in a hammond 1590a case? im going to be doing a similar build and i just dont see it...

I am using a 1590B Hammond box, not a 1590A.
Even with the 1590B it is going to be tight, but I think it will all fit ok.

 

[TheBoo]

haha, must have gotten my threads mixed up, that makes much more sense

 

[alee132]

My shapway's bezel is one the way. I ordered the N52 1/4 x 1/16. Because these are stronger then most you see people using. I ordered them from KJ's from the link you posted. They came and Could fit in the way it is sitting out a little. But drilling a tiny bit on the outside and the will fit perfect. Once my bezel get's here I am going ahead with me mod. I am going to use the fatdaddy's 510 until they come out with the floating one in a few weeks. Since it's going to take a bigger hole I can just replace it later. I got the correct drill bit that will make the hole angled so the 510 will sit more flush plus I am going to file the sides to an angle, that way from other's I have seen it sit's totally flush. You kinda loose any airflow from the 510 but I don't use any atty's or tanks that need it.

So far
1590B pre painted nicely in blue.
Rare earth magnet's, orderd 10 jic lol, N52, 1/4 X 1/16. I might drill the 1/4 hole all the way through and put 2 per hole as it looks like it will fit but not sure it's needed but would hold on super strong.
fat daddy's 510 adjustable connection
sx350 chip
keystone 1042 X 2
keystone 1048 X 1
Not sure which of the above holder's I will use.
PV5S640SS Round silver anti vandal button.

Shapeway's Bapgood sx350 bezel, either side mount after being cut some if possible, or on the back possibly, painted as close as I can to match possibly.

I looked at homedepot for plexiglass. They have a acrylic and some other similar products but they are kinda thick. They had one that was thinner but it was not exactly clear, had a matte look to it, kinda blurry but non glare. Didn't like either unless I have to use the thicker one but I don't wanna loose any space and it's so thick it may cause issues. IDK. I even went to a glass shop and they only had 1/8 inch thick stuff but they can cut to size.

Anyone know where I can get some good plexiglass, I live in phoenix AZ.

 

[Portertown]

My shapway's bezel is one the way. I ordered the N52 1/4 x 1/16. Because these are stronger then most you see people using. I ordered them from KJ's from the link you posted. They came and Could fit in the way it is sitting out a little. But drilling a tiny bit on the outside and the will fit perfect. Once my bezel get's here I am going ahead with me mod. I am going to use the fatdaddy's 510 until they come out with the floating one in a few weeks. Since it's going to take a bigger hole I can just replace it later. I got the correct drill bit that will make the hole angled so the 510 will sit more flush plus I am going to file the sides to an angle, that way from other's I have seen it sit's totally flush. You kinda loose any airflow from the 510 but I don't use any atty's or tanks that need it.

So far
1590B pre painted nicely in blue.
Rare earth magnet's, orderd 10 jic lol, N52, 1/4 X 1/16. I might drill the 1/4 hole all the way through and put 2 per hole as it looks like it will fit but not sure it's needed but would hold on super strong.
fat daddy's 510 adjustable connection
sx350 chip
keystone 1042 X 2
keystone 1048 X 1
Not sure which of the above holder's I will use.
PV5S640SS Round silver anti vandal button.

Shapeway's Bapgood sx350 bezel, either side mount after being cut some if possible, or on the back possibly, painted as close as I can to match possibly.

I looked at homedepot for plexiglass. They have a acrylic and some other similar products but they are kinda thick. They had one that was thinner but it was not exactly clear, had a matte look to it, kinda blurry but non glare. Didn't like either unless I have to use the thicker one but I don't wanna loose any space and it's so thick it may cause issues. IDK. I even went to a glass shop and they only had 1/8 inch thick stuff but they can cut to size.

Anyone know where I can get some good plexiglass, I live in phoenix AZ.

Looks like you are well on your way with your build.

Check out these links for some plexiglass I am looking at using.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_55844-1638-...ntURL=?Ns=p_product_price|0&page=1&facetInfo=
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

I am still in the planning stages with my build, but will start getting my needed items together this week. I was hoping Fatdaddyvapes would get his new floating 510 connectors up for sale soon.

 

[thelukee]

Can someone explain to me how you guys are replacing the push button switch on the chip? The diagram represents theres + and - wires running to the switch. But on the chip, I only see one wire..
Anyways, I'm guessing you just cut that one off, and solder the new one on? As simple as that?

 

[alee132]

Can someone explain to me how you guys are replacing the push button switch on the chip? The diagram represents theres + and - wires running to the switch. But on the chip, I only see one wire..
Anyways, I'm guessing you just cut that one off, and solder the new one on? As simple as that?

Yep, cut it off, splice it into the 2 wires and hook up switch. It looks like 1 wire but its 2 together. They come apart.

 

[alee132]

Looks like you are well on your way with your build.

Check out these links for some plexiglass I am looking at using.
Shop OPTIX 10-in x 8-in x .080-in Clear Acrylic Sheet at Lowes.com
Shop LEXAN 10-in x 8-in x 0.093-in Clear Acrylic Sheet at Lowes.com

I am still in the planning stages with my build, but will start getting my needed items together this week. I was hoping Fatdaddyvapes would get his new floating 510 connectors up for sale soon.

I actually just bought the new floating 510 from them earlier today. It's up on fdv site now. I opted for the 22mm washer with it for $1 more. That way my atty's with sit flush on it.

 

[Portertown]

I actually just bought the new floating 510 from them earlier today. It's up on fdv site now. I opted for the 22mm washer with it for $1 more. That way my atty's with sit flush on it.

Thanks for the update on the FDV floating 510 connector. I ordered two of them today and they have already been shipped.

 

[hwwyang]

Anyone know where I can get some good plexiglass, I live in phoenix AZ.

I am doing a similar built but with 1591XXABK ABS box. I am not order the bezel from Shapway; I am just going to dremel out the screen hole for the SX350. With plastic box, it should not be difficult to do.<br>

In terms of plexy - I saw a thread from Mamu: "Milo-DNA20D mod step-by-step how-to" where she mentioned that Lexan polycarbonate is much easier to work with than Plexy. They come in .093, .125 and .177 inch in thickness, I was able to find reasonable priced (12x24 and 12x12 size) lexan in amazon. They should arrive next week.

Since my ABS box comes with 2mm x 5 mm mounting post behind the cover, I figure I will use the .093 Lexan sheet and drill holes to match the post. Tape the board with 3m double foam tape onto the lexam. Since the foam tape and the board thickness added up to just about 5mm in thickness, once I double taped the chip onto the Lexan, I can just screwed the whole plastic piece on to the top cover. With the 5 mm around the chip will still leave me access to all of the wires coming out of the board.

The only thing I miss-calculated was the box width. I originally wanted to mount two 18650 battery in parallel but after fitting the 1043/1042 Keystone battery holder into the box, I realized that I won't have enough room to mount a bigger switch. Unless I can settle for the existing board soldered switch and just get a cover for it.....of course i can always order a button from shapeway. My only concern now is mounting the micro USB charging board. I order a few stand alone Charging board from Shapeway.....hopefully I do not need too too much modification to make it fit the Yihie one.

BTW, just came across this on the forum - Yihie is recommending two batteries mounted in parallel from a explanation about the differences between 350 and 300:

http://www.yihiecigar.com/news_info/Differences-between-SX300---SX350-n55844.html

Something just occurred to me tonight....since i order the newly available spring loaded 510 connector from Fatdaddy, I should not have too much issue solder them. But won't the brass center pin and the stainless nut cause galvanic corrosion over time? I suppose I will find out over time. Best of luck on the built. Happy Vaping