At least on a darwin it does look like a mad scientist. I have mine on a chuck with a battery extension-I always do a double take around an intersection when I am driving before I take a hit off of it. LOL!
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It takes a vaper to appreciate their beauty, to be sure. It begs to be noticed.
Thats right, fly the vaper flag with pride
Even if we do get arrested for suspicion of carrying a combination water ..../bomb detonator
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Thats right, fly the vaper flag with pride
View attachment 30317
That's badass but if I didn't vape or know what it was I'd probably view it as something lethal.
Is there a good tutorial on how to clean out the tank and insert the same ce2? The "how-to" video on youtube and the site looks like he can't get the center pin back up in the ce2. That's worrisome.
I think most of the videos have been assembly rather than actual cleaning. I'd suggest that you not remove the center pen. I usually vape till nearly empty and then remove the whole bottom assembly, rinse in hot water, dry burn the coil, soak in alcohol, dry burn again (good idea to rinse again although I’ve never had one flame on me), then if there is any residue left, I put it under steam on my espresso machine. Put some VG on the bottom fitting and O-ring then slide it back in. I then seat the silicone ring from the top of the tube just like you would and the regular CE2. And no, I don’t even bother removing the upper cap from the tube… guess I’m lazy that way.
Replacing the E2 can be a bear. I finally mounted it on an old ego style battery, put the battery in a vice, put a small open end wrench around the fitting so it lays flat on the bottom of the bottom cap and tap with a small tack hammer… tap… don’t try to drive a nail. Slow taps will break it loose and make it easier to remove.
Good luck, hope that helps.
Do you want to pull it apart completely? I put mine on a mod and just pull it apart. I wash out the tank, the top and rinse down in the nether regions, clean the silicone ring and rinse and blot the CE2 wick. If I see gunk I dry burn til it's gone.
I then stick a long doll needle (Sew-knitty...I have such things aplenty) up through the metal whatsit that runs down the center , put the silicon cap on properly (lining the notches over where the threads come out of the cup) and as I pop the pieces back together the needle keeps the metal whatsit straight and from collapsing. By keeping the whatsit straight the cap seats darn near as well as when I first got the tanks from Bruce.
But, if I were you, I'd wait for an experienced person to tell you. I just couldn't resist sharing. I share too much...
If you need to remove the E2 with juice remaining in the tank you can either remove the top grommet and pour it out or use your syringe to suck the juice back out. I do not like pushing the center pin out you ca damage the E2
This is how I replace and clean my E2 Map tank
Remove the top grommet & fill ring
Remove any un-used juice by pouring or using a syringe
Loosen bottom grommet from tube I dont remove it yet wash with water while in place
Remove gromet from tube
Remove E2 by pushing grommet upwards towards top of E2
Wash dry replace
This takes less then 5 minutes I do this over a sink no mess no fuss
Remove the top grommet & fill ring
Remove any un-used juice by pouring or using a syringe
Loosen bottom grommet from tube I dont remove it yet wash with water while in place
Remove gromet from tube
Remove E2 by pushing grommet upwards towards top of E2
Wash dry replace
This takes less then 5 minutes I do this over a sink no mess no fuss
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Do you always change your ce2s? Do you ever keep the current ce2 and just clean it? If so do you do what the others said and use alcohol?
I rotate 2 E2's that way I always have a clean one when I start a new tank. I have found that works the best for the juices I use. I do at times just top off the tank if everything seems to be running Ok
I clean mine before every fill.... I get a coffee cup and fill with water.... I heat the water for 2:30 minutes "boiling" in the microwave. I leave the CE2 inside the bottom grommet with the tube off! and dip the tip /wick part in the boiling water and giggle it for 20 seconds. I then Lightly scrub the coil with the tip of a tooth brush... "lightly". pat dry the wicks with a napkin and then drop the whole thing in a dish of rubbing alcohol. soak for 2 minutes and the take out. The alcohol helps drying process faster.... Let sit for 5 minutes until completely dry. Then I dry burn the wick till the gunked up juice burns off. Dry burn some more and blow lightly on the coil as it turns orange/red. Lightly brush the coil with dry stuff from the dry burn off with the tooth brush again..... put back together. Make sure the rubber fill piece is placed on correctly and put the whole thing together. fill and you are good to go. when tightening the Map on to the map do not tighten to much as you may twist the top rubber piece sitting on top of the wick - which can twist the wick and rubber piece out of place while it's sitting inside the top rubber grommet! I hope this helps a little as I am not to familiar with the names of all of the pieces. I have done this 6 times with the same CE2 and it's always a pleasure to vape on a clean CE2
will these xl 510 ce2's work in the map tank? i ordered one yesterday, and COV doenst have any precut, or non precuts on there i can find.
CE2 510 XL Cartomizers ( Pack of 5 ) ( Stainless Steel ) Rev. 4 [VJDA015] - $9.95 : VaporJunction, E-Cigarette Supply
CE2 510 XL Cartomizers ( Pack of 5 ) ( Stainless Steel ) Rev. 4 [VJDA015] - $9.95 : VaporJunction, E-Cigarette Supply
I ordered a MAP Tank the other day and there wasn't any steel C2 XLs in stock but it seems I read somewhere in this thread that the black ones would work. Is this correct? From what I can tell the steel ones at that link are less but that site only ships USPS Priority mail so that could make them more or maybe the same......
Steel just refers to the tube construction, so yes, the black ones will work, they're steel underneath. I just peel the sticker off.
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