I dissasembled 2 maxx fusion
cartomizers to figure out how they function, what burns and what doesn't, the operating temp of the coil itself, with juice on it and dry burn as well. I test the torch the wick with a lighter method, burn the filler, and take the silicone insulator on the battery end, and touch the coil with it, and yes it absolutely melts IMMEDIATELY if it comes in contact with the coil itself. I tried to melt it against the coil with a soaking wet wick, and a dry burn, both tests yielded the same result...a melted silicone insulator plug.
Now comes the interesting part. The coil is held in place simply by pressure. The silicone insulator plug at the battery end which keeps the positive and negative ends of the coil it what keeps the coil in place. One end of the coil is sandwiched between the inside of the silicone plug and the center contact, and the other is sandwiched between the outside of the silicone plug and the metal portion of the cartomizer which has contact with the threads and acts as a negative to return current back to the battery.
Now on to the coil temp test. I have a digital infrared thermostat which will accurately read temps up to 550 degrees F.
During a 6 second burn starting with a soaked wick and factory ejuice, the temp hit 280degrees. During a dry burn the coil temp was pushing 460 degreesF. The polyfill, if in contact with the coil will not catch fire, but it will immediately vaporize, and you WILL be inhaling it. Thats a FACT and its not a good one.
The protective inner air sleeve, which keeps the polyfiller material away from the coil does NOT burn. I attempted to destroy it with dry burning a coil over and over again, as well as with a lighter. If you have ever dissasembled one of your maxx fusion cartos and looked at the end which sits over the coil, and seen black or brown nastyness stuck to at, thats all that is, is nasty old juice deposits all jammed up in the end of the sleeve. This might trick you into thinking it is melting, but its not, just burn it with a lighter and you will see. It will crackle and pop like rice crispies, until its charred black but will wash off immediately after, revealing a clean like new looking inner air sleeve. This is good......as long as it is doing its job of keeping the polyfiller material off the coil...
The wick does not burn. Holding it over and directly in a flame does zero damage to it and if anything helps clean it nice nice.
Now being an electrician, I can say this much about the design of the coil leads being pressed against this particular silicone plug which will melt at MUCH lower temps that 500 F. This is not a very intelligent design. When you put voltage and amperage through a piece of wire....the ENTIRE wire heats up NOT just the coil. The coil will be hotter as you are creating a resistive point in the conductor, but the leads of that wire are hot too, thats guaranteed. Turn your garden hose on full blast and fold the hose in half....when you do you will feel the pressure the most in the hose right where your creating resistance at the fold, same principle applies to electricity. That is the reason that the coil burns bright while the leads don't glow, the coil is the resistive point.
In my opinion, the coil leads should have been soldered in the design, one to the outer ring of metal which contacts the threads of the carto, and the other lead soldered to the very top of the center post. This would allow the silicone plug to be shorter and further away from the coil lead and the coil itself, if even by 3 mm, this would be a good thing.
All of these tests were done on the trifecta from bloog, both plugged in via usb, and with the plug disconnected, I have videotaped every step of each test and will upload it so you can see that the information is accurate and you will see how I performaed each test.
I love the maxxfusion I think it works great...BUT that silicone plug at the bottom is a engineering defect. Leaford, you should have the manufacturer solder those wires away from the silicone plug, in my opinion, this is about the only design flaw in the maxxfusion cartomizer. If you fix that issue, and it is an issue....The Bloog MaxxFusion carto will probably go down in history as the best 808 style of all time, and I will definitely be a long time supporter and customer of Bloog.
Videos are coming.
cartomizers to figure out how they function, what burns and what doesn't, the operating temp of the coil itself, with juice on it and dry burn as well. I test the torch the wick with a lighter method, burn the filler, and take the silicone insulator on the battery end, and touch the coil with it, and yes it absolutely melts IMMEDIATELY if it comes in contact with the coil itself. I tried to melt it against the coil with a soaking wet wick, and a dry burn, both tests yielded the same result...a melted silicone insulator plug.
Now comes the interesting part. The coil is held in place simply by pressure. The silicone insulator plug at the battery end which keeps the positive and negative ends of the coil it what keeps the coil in place. One end of the coil is sandwiched between the inside of the silicone plug and the center contact, and the other is sandwiched between the outside of the silicone plug and the metal portion of the cartomizer which has contact with the threads and acts as a negative to return current back to the battery.
Now on to the coil temp test. I have a digital infrared thermostat which will accurately read temps up to 550 degrees F.
During a 6 second burn starting with a soaked wick and factory ejuice, the temp hit 280degrees. During a dry burn the coil temp was pushing 460 degreesF. The polyfill, if in contact with the coil will not catch fire, but it will immediately vaporize, and you WILL be inhaling it. Thats a FACT and its not a good one.
The protective inner air sleeve, which keeps the polyfiller material away from the coil does NOT burn. I attempted to destroy it with dry burning a coil over and over again, as well as with a lighter. If you have ever dissasembled one of your maxx fusion cartos and looked at the end which sits over the coil, and seen black or brown nastyness stuck to at, thats all that is, is nasty old juice deposits all jammed up in the end of the sleeve. This might trick you into thinking it is melting, but its not, just burn it with a lighter and you will see. It will crackle and pop like rice crispies, until its charred black but will wash off immediately after, revealing a clean like new looking inner air sleeve. This is good......as long as it is doing its job of keeping the polyfiller material off the coil...
The wick does not burn. Holding it over and directly in a flame does zero damage to it and if anything helps clean it nice nice.
Now being an electrician, I can say this much about the design of the coil leads being pressed against this particular silicone plug which will melt at MUCH lower temps that 500 F. This is not a very intelligent design. When you put voltage and amperage through a piece of wire....the ENTIRE wire heats up NOT just the coil. The coil will be hotter as you are creating a resistive point in the conductor, but the leads of that wire are hot too, thats guaranteed. Turn your garden hose on full blast and fold the hose in half....when you do you will feel the pressure the most in the hose right where your creating resistance at the fold, same principle applies to electricity. That is the reason that the coil burns bright while the leads don't glow, the coil is the resistive point.
In my opinion, the coil leads should have been soldered in the design, one to the outer ring of metal which contacts the threads of the carto, and the other lead soldered to the very top of the center post. This would allow the silicone plug to be shorter and further away from the coil lead and the coil itself, if even by 3 mm, this would be a good thing.
All of these tests were done on the trifecta from bloog, both plugged in via usb, and with the plug disconnected, I have videotaped every step of each test and will upload it so you can see that the information is accurate and you will see how I performaed each test.
I love the maxxfusion I think it works great...BUT that silicone plug at the bottom is a engineering defect. Leaford, you should have the manufacturer solder those wires away from the silicone plug, in my opinion, this is about the only design flaw in the maxxfusion cartomizer. If you fix that issue, and it is an issue....The Bloog MaxxFusion carto will probably go down in history as the best 808 style of all time, and I will definitely be a long time supporter and customer of Bloog.
Videos are coming.
Last edited:
