Maybe found a better alternative to Noalox?

[c3 rolling]

I was at my local auto parts store and I found "Dielectric Grease" from Permatex for $3. The grease is a small .33 ounce tube and it's apparently for applications like spark plugs so I'm guessing that it can handle a mech mod no problem. It says on the label that it prevents...

1. Prevents arcing
2. Eliminates voltage leaks
3. Extends service life
4. Protects against corrosion.

It is much thicker than Noalox and is clear in color . It stays put a lot better on top of my batteries and the firing pin than Noalox. It may be the placebo effect but my Reo seems to hit harder too? . Anyone else use this stuff? Hopefully Rob can chime in.

 

[Big Hitter]

Dielectric grease is exactly WRONG for our application

If you do a little google voodoo you will see its not intended for any sort of switch or intermittent connection.

It meant for things that are connected permanently or semi ........ Say for instance a car battery terminal.

Sorry.

EDIT: No idea why it says switches ?? I can only assume they mean switch terminals and not the switch itself .......

Either that or a really smart guy gave me a load of crap 20 years ago ........

Anyone ??

 

[Big Hitter]

From Wiki ........

Dielectric grease[edit]
Dielectric grease is electrically insulating and does not break down when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector without arcing.

A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected. It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease. Doing so on such high pressure contact surfaces between different metals has the advantage of sealing the contact area against electrolytes that might cause rapid galvanic corrosion.

Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low. Products designed as electronic connector lubricants, on the other hand, should be applied to such connector contacts and can dramatically extend their useful life. Polyphenyl Ether, rather than silicone grease, is the active ingredient in some such connector lubricants.

Silicone grease should not be applied to (or next to) any switch contact that might experience arcing, as silicone can convert to silicon-carbide under arcing conditions, and accumulation of the silicon-carbide can cause the contacts to prematurely fail. (British Telecom had this problem in the 1970s when silicone Symel® sleeving was used in telephone exchanges. Vapour from the sleeving migrated to relay contacts and the resultant silicon-carbide caused intermittent connection.)

 

[Big Hitter]

OMG ....... ever try to read (well understand) wiki ........ with a crippling hangover ??

Boooom! I think my head exploded.

 

[Big Hitter]

Hey just say your handle c3 ...... You don't buy chance roll on a Yamaha c3 do ya ??

Got three hopped up Zuma's myself ............

 

[c3 rolling]

I think you may be right! After doing some googling, it may not be good for this application. Blah, the info on the package sounded great.... I guess I can still use this stuff around the house though.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

It does work in a pinch until you can get some noalox. We have a slightly different use case and the key here is regular maintenance, the problem BT had was one of it being applied and just left that way for extended periods. In this application it is applied, then washed off after a few weeks, the contact filed and new grease applied.

 

[Raynman]

I always put a dab of Noalox on the top battery button. I haven't had to file since doing it this way 6 months and going strong. YMMV although I wouldn't know why.

 

[jkais3r]

I always put a dab of Noalox on the top battery button. I haven't had to file since doing it this way 6 months and going strong. YMMV although I wouldn't know why.

It doesn't arc at all when you put enough on it. I use de-ox for work anyways, so I just put a good dab on the battery. You don't even need to put any on the firing pin if you have a blob on the battery. It will still do its job at arc suppression. Since there's no arc, there's no oxidation.

When I change batteries I just take the de-ox off the battery with my finger and use the same blob on the next charged battery. I've only filed it after a few days of first getting it, because it didn't have de-ox on it. Since I used it on the batteries I have had no oxidation.


Dielectric grease isn't conductive, noalox/de-ox is conductive. That's why it isn't used in mods. But yes, it will protect against corrosion, but will also be sort of an insulator which would impede current flow. Potentially.

 

[Rat2chat2]

So glad you posted this. I told my hubby I needed some noalox and he gave me a little pack of bulb grease and told me to use it. I haven't yet but after reading these comments I think I will get what was suggested to me like I wanted to in the first place.

Thanks again.

 

[Tony Spectacular]

Is there a reason that you folk prefer Noalox to No Ox Id? Unless I'm missing something, the increased conductivity of No Ox Id should make it a better product for this application.

 

[twizted]

Just go to Lowes & get a 4oz tube of ox-guard. It's only 5 bucks and some change and should last a very long time. Ox-guard is the Lowes equivalent to noalox.

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

 

[TheJohnG]

Seems to work good, any experience with this?
GB Ox-Guard

JG - Trying to be simple again.

 

[nerak]

Seems to work good, any experience with this?
GB Ox-Guard

JG - Trying to be simple again.

I have used OxGard bought it locally. Never had any problems with it.

You should check out this thread though: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/464335-noalox-vs-oxgard.html

 

[TheJohnG]

After the above read I am going to get the Noalox. But I must say the oxguard has my side button mods side button working as smooth as butter.

JG - Trying to be simple again.

 

[Justice]

I was at my local auto parts store and I found "Dielectric Grease" from Permatex for $3. The grease is a small .33 ounce tube and it's apparently for applications like spark plugs so I'm guessing that it can handle a mech mod no problem. It says on the label that it prevents...

1. Prevents arcing
2. Eliminates voltage leaks
3. Extends service life
4. Protects against corrosion.

It is much thicker than Noalox and is clear in color . It stays put a lot better on top of my batteries and the firing pin than Noalox. It may be the placebo effect but my Reo seems to hit harder too? . Anyone else use this stuff? Hopefully Rob can chime in.

I've been using this same stuff for over 2 years now it works great .It is good for both permanent and momentary contact situations. Mr McGoogle doesn't always get all his facts totally right

 

[zmauls]

I hate to .... in and say you're all wrong, but I'm butting in, and you're all wrong.

Noalox is a very specific compound. While certain anti-oxidization compounds might work fine on other mods, Noalox is the best for a Reo, and there are reasons it is recommended by the man himself. Yes, your other suggestions will "work," but not as effectively or beneficially as Noalox will. Here's why:

Firstly, Noalox is meant for joints, i.e. where contacts meet in a complete circuit. As Filthy said, other compounds are meant to prevent oxidization in an already complete circuit. Alternatively, Noalox is meant to prevent oxidization in a location where a circuit is completed, like where our firing pins touch the positive battery contact. Second, Noalox is specifically designed for aluminum. It says it right on the bottle. While many mods are made out of brass, stainless steel, or even silver, our faithful Reos are milled from a solid block of - you guessed it - aluminum. Finally, unlike other compounds, Noalox does not serve the sole purpose of preventing oxidization. Noalox is loaded up with particles of zinc, which is a conductive mineral. What this means is that Noalox aids in the joint's conductivity (more conductivity = less voltage drop, better battery life, less wear and tear - see Raynman's post), while other compounds may actually reduce the overall performance of your mod. Use other compounds only as a placeholder until you can get to Home Depot and purchase some name brand Noalox.

I hope this helps. Again, sorry for butting in, but my fellow Reonauts deserve the best.

 

[Tony Spectacular]

Again, what about No Ox Id (I should have mentioned before, I'm talking about A-special)? Its data sheet says that it, too, is designed for use on aluminum, and for electrical connections/switchgear. Its advantage, to me, is that it sticks around longer than Noalox in my experience, and it's ideal for all my mods, not just my beloved Reo. Is there a specific advantage that Noalox has over it?

NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL" is the electrical contact grease of choice in new electrical installations and maintenance because of its excellent performance in keeping metals free from corrosion. This rust preventitive has been used for over 50 years to preventing corrosion in electrical connectors from low micro-power electronics to high voltage switchgear. NO-OX-ID A-Special prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides and other corrosion deposits on copper and aluminum surfaces and conductors can be prevented with its use.

 

[Raynman]

Who cares after the sub kit drops I'm changing every Reo I own over to sub kits (Except the VV and Woodvils) and Noalox will no longer be needed at all.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

I'll still use it as oxidation will still happen just a lot slower. I'll go from a bath every week to a bath every month or more.