Maybe found a better alternative to Noalox?

[ltrainer]

I'll still use it as oxidation will still happen just a lot slower. I'll go from a bath every week to a bath every month or more.

Filthy, how does Noalox have anything to do with your personal bathing habits. I just don't get it. Is that how you got your name?

Insert big smiley face here----->

 

[Raynman]

I think with the non sparking properties of Be Cu there should very little to no oxidation.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Filthy, how does Noalox have anything to do with your personal bathing habits. I just don't get it. Is that how you got your name?

Insert big smiley face here----->

No that the name my daughter gave the jeep. It only gets two baths a year inside and out with a power washer.

 

[zmauls]

Again, what about No Ox Id (I should have mentioned before, I'm talking about A-special)? Its data sheet says that it, too, is designed for use on aluminum, and for electrical connections/switchgear. Its advantage, to me, is that it sticks around longer than Noalox in my experience, and it's ideal for all my mods, not just my beloved Reo. Is there a specific advantage that Noalox has over it?

NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL" is the electrical contact grease of choice in new electrical installations and maintenance because of its excellent performance in keeping metals free from corrosion. This rust preventitive has been used for over 50 years to preventing corrosion in electrical connectors from low micro-power electronics to high voltage switchgear. NO-OX-ID A-Special prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides and other corrosion deposits on copper and aluminum surfaces and conductors can be prevented with its use.

Read my post again. This stuff looks to cover 2 of the 3 benefits of Noalox. Find another 3 for 3 and you've got a worthy replacement. SO kits are on the way anyway, so this conversation is meaningless.

 

[ltrainer]

Read my post again. This stuff looks to cover 2 of the 3 benefits of Noalox. Find another 3 for 3 and you've got a worthy replacement. SO kits are on the way anyway, so this conversation is meaningless.

Is that a winch on the front? Looks as though that would be handy. What fun.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Is that a winch on the front? Looks as though that would be handy. What fun.

Yes it's 9500# Warn winch and gets used regularly, my typical off roading is more challenging terrain instead of mud.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

I've got two jeeps here's a link to a few photos Shared Jeep - BigAperture

 

[Justice]

do you guys want a chrome one or a pink one ??

[/URL]

 

[Filthy-Beast]

do you guys want a chrome one or a pink one ??

[/URL]

Both of my daughters drive TJ Wranglers and wheel as well. Chrome doesn't belong on a Jeep so pink.

 

[jkais3r]

I hate to .... in and say you're all wrong, but I'm butting in, and you're all wrong.

Noalox is a very specific compound. While certain anti-oxidization compounds might work fine on other mods, Noalox is the best for a Reo, and there are reasons it is recommended by the man himself. Yes, your other suggestions will "work," but not as effectively or beneficially as Noalox will. Here's why:

Firstly, Noalox is meant for joints, i.e. where contacts meet in a complete circuit. As Filthy said, other compounds are meant to prevent oxidization in an already complete circuit. Alternatively, Noalox is meant to prevent oxidization in a location where a circuit is completed, like where our firing pins touch the positive battery contact. Second, Noalox is specifically designed for aluminum. It says it right on the bottle. While many mods are made out of brass, stainless steel, or even silver, our faithful Reos are milled from a solid block of - you guessed it - aluminum. Finally, unlike other compounds, Noalox does not serve the sole purpose of preventing oxidization. Noalox is loaded up with particles of zinc, which is a conductive mineral. What this means is that Noalox aids in the joint's conductivity (more conductivity = less voltage drop, better battery life, less wear and tear - see Raynman's post), while other compounds may actually reduce the overall performance of your mod. Use other compounds only as a placeholder until you can get to Home Depot and purchase some name brand Noalox.

I hope this helps. Again, sorry for butting in, but my fellow Reonauts deserve the best.

I believe the aluminum is there because aluminum is a terrible uninsulated conductor. You can bury a piece of aluminum and it will stay intact for years. Run power through it with even a pin-hole in the insulation and it will turn to powder.

I use it in connections (joints), in wirenuts mostly, on screw threads, and on the aluminum wire itself when it's put into a pressure connection. Almost all other connections such as relays/contactors it doesn't need it. But if you join copper and aluminum there is a great amount of oxidation due to the difference of metals and different resistances. If air gets in there it will oxidize.

I don't think the firing pin is aluminum, so using a compound designed for aluminum connections doesn't really make too much of a difference. In my previous post I said it is conductive, while dielectric grease isn't. As long as it doesn't arc and hits good there can't be too much more voltage drop in using conductive vs non-conductive.

If I'm wrong please tell me, I didn't do research for this post just used my knowledge.

 

[zmauls]

I believe the aluminum is there because aluminum is a terrible uninsulated conductor. You can bury a piece of aluminum and it will stay intact for years. Run power through it with even a pin-hole in the insulation and it will turn to powder.

I use it in connections (joints), in wirenuts mostly, on screw threads, and on the aluminum wire itself when it's put into a pressure connection. Almost all other connections such as relays/contactors it doesn't need it. But if you join copper and aluminum there is a great amount of oxidation due to the difference of metals and different resistances. If air gets in there it will oxidize.

I don't think the firing pin is aluminum, so using a compound designed for aluminum connections doesn't really make too much of a difference. In my previous post I said it is conductive, while dielectric grease isn't. As long as it doesn't arc and hits good there can't be too much more voltage drop in using conductive vs non-conductive.

If I'm wrong please tell me, I didn't do research for this post just used my knowledge.

I believe the firing pin is stainless steel, but many people, myself included, use Noalox between the negative contacts as well, as in underneath and on top of the spring (or, in my case, the fuse).

 

[TheJohnG]

I just wanted to comment on my experience. Today I picked up some Noalox at the H. Depot to replace my GB Ox-Guard
I used my usual cleaning process and a little bit of Noalox. With all things being equal, my mod is performing much better using the Noalox. Ox-guard gets a thumbs down.

JG - Trying to be simple again.

 

[jkais3r]

I believe the firing pin is stainless steel, but many people, myself included, use Noalox between the negative contacts as well, as in underneath and on top of the spring (or, in my case, the fuse).

Yeah, that post I made was just about the intended use for noalox/de-ox etc. I really don't see a need in using it for a contact that doesn't move. I run .55 on a stock grand and the only oxidation I've gotten is on the positive of the battery and tip of the firing pin from not having anything on it for the first couple of days. Now I just put a glob on my battery's positive and that has proven good for a month or so.

But hey, in a few weeks no one will need it anymore