Mech Mod advantages?

[glassgal]

I was talking about other VV, and I'm so used to arguing with anti-Provari people, when you said that I just auto-launched into counter attack mode. If you're not, my apologies. hehe.

 

[edyle]

I was talking about other VV, and I'm so used to arguing with anti-Provari people, when you said that I just auto-launched into counter attack mode. If you're not, my apologies. hehe.

So I still don't know if you have some misconception about what the power regulation does; you seemed to think that setting the power causes the voltage to keep changing as the battery drains; this is not so;

With VV , you set the voltage, and the power changes if you change the coil resistance.
With VW , you set the power, and the voltage changes if you change the coil resistance.

 

[glassgal]

So I still don't know if you have some misconception about what the power regulation does; you seemed to think that setting the power causes the voltage to keep changing as the battery drains; this is not so;

With VV , you set the voltage, and the power changes if you change the coil resistance.
With VW , you set the power, and the voltage changes if you change the coil resistance.

Ok. What does this have to do with mech mods?

 

[edyle]

Ok. What does this have to do with mech mods?

Ok;

Shrug;


I just thought you were misunderstanding something; you are the one that brought it up.

Quote Originally Posted by glassgal View Post
.............

2. My RBA RDA, where I fiddle with my ohm to get a more specific vape. With these, I don't want a set power output, because I KNOW what volts I like for each head, and I don't want the power adjusting my voltage so my vape, and thus flavor, changes on me. This flavor factor, which happens to be WHY I vape, matters a whole lot more than battery consumption.

When things are NOT equal, and I'm building my own coils to get the vape I want, why would I care about a consistent power drain? When I care most about consistent power drain is when I'm using generic heads. The one thing I've learned over the last day is that the 3 factors combine in various ways to accomplish the same goal. Well, that means is that if you set the power, your voltage will change as your battery drains... and then your flavor changes (you adjust your volts, your flavor changes). That's why people who have both settings on their mods (both VV and VW) typically set their VOLTS anyway, in lieu of their watts.

 

[glassgal]

Ok;

Shrug;


I just thought you were misunderstanding something; you are the one that brought it up.

You're right. I have been bouncing around the forum so much, including one of the multitudes of 'I hate Provari' threads that I must have gotten confused. I see no reason for anyone to hate Provari, nor do I think it particularly fair since no one runs around hating other mods. Anyway, I am still slowly absorbing electricity info... but I feel like I'm nearly there. Nearly. LOL!

 

[edyle]

You're right. I have been bouncing around the forum so much, including one of the multitudes of 'I hate Provari' threads that I must have gotten confused. I see no reason for anyone to hate Provari, nor do I think it particularly fair since no one runs around hating other mods. Anyway, I am still slowly absorbing electricity info... but I feel like I'm nearly there. Nearly. LOL!

Well I wonder what ohms and volts you use on your RBA and your RDA

 

[glassgal]

Well, the only true mech mod I have is broken... that's an IChing, so I can't really try sub-ohm yet. My Provari only goes down to 1.1ohms. But I'm getting at least 1 mech mod, so I want to know about sub-ohm. For the most part, I stay between 1.1 and 1.8ohms.

 

[edyle]

Well, the only true mech mod I have is broken... that's an IChing, so I can't really try sub-ohm yet. My Provari only goes down to 1.1ohms. But I'm getting at least 1 mech mod, so I want to know about sub-ohm. For the most part, I stay between 1.1 and 1.8ohms.

So do you have an RBA and an RDA or was what you were saying just a kind of speculative manner of speaking or something? I'm confused.

2. My RBA RDA, where I fiddle with my ohm to get a more specific vape. With these, I don't want a set power output, because I KNOW what volts I like for each head, and I don't want the power adjusting my voltage so my vape, and thus flavor, changes on me. This flavor factor, which happens to be WHY I vape, matters a whole lot more than battery consumption.

 

[glassgal]

I have... a LOT of RBA and RDA. Here's most (but not all) of them:

Here's my desk (with some overlap from above, they get shuffled around depending on what I am vaping):

Here's my desk yesterday, trying to decide which of the 2 blocks of wood matches better for my custom wood mod, my e-pipes didn't make the photo cept for the Rhodesian Ebony on the top shelf (which block do you like better?):

I have a kicked mech mod that easily vaped a .7 coil I accidentally made, but it's not a true sub-ohm mech mod. That's what the wood is for, a pdib mod (look in the sub forum, he's taking reservations).

At the moment, the count is totally off, editing this.

 

[edyle]

waaaaaaaaaaaaaoooooooooooooooooooooooooooowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww

bbyyyyyyy ggggooooooooooooollllllllllllyyyyyyyyyyyyyy geeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

aw man you got a 134!!!!!!!!!!!!! AWESOME!


So on your rebuildables you use around 1.5 ohms right?

So what voltage do you use with them? About 5 volts?

 

[glassgal]

It varies, depending on the juice and how my coils turn out. I have mostly settled at 1.5-1.8 ohms for wraps (depending on how the coils come out) for the Kayfun. About 1.1-1.5 on the Steam Turbine (I don't do mesh or dual coils on it). Lately, I've been vaping mostly low power, as in 2.4 w/ 3.8 volts and carto tanks. But I usually have 8 loaded up at a time of different stuff.

I just cleared the gunk out of the 134 and got it running again. If you get one... be VERY careful you don't put a leaky atomizer on it. The top is not fully sealed like the Provari, it WILL leak onto your circuit board inside if you have a big juice leak, then getting to it is a nightmare you wont' soon forget.

 

[edyle]

It varies, depending on the juice and how my coils turn out. I have mostly settled at 1.5-1.8 ohms for wraps (depending on how the coils come out) for the Kayfun. About 1.1-1.5 on the Steam Turbine (I don't do mesh or dual coils on it). Lately, I've been vaping mostly low power, as in 2.4 w/ 3.8 volts and carto tanks. But I usually have 8 loaded up at a time of different stuff.

I just cleared the gunk out of the 134 and got it running again. If you get one... be VERY careful you don't put a leaky atomizer on it. The top is not fully sealed like the Provari, it WILL leak onto your circuit board inside if you have a big juice leak, then getting to it is a nightmare you wont' soon forget.

So lately you've been vaping at 2.4 ohm with 3.8 volts; that works out to 6 watts.

I'm currently using 4 watts on one tank and 5 watts on another.

With a mech, you can just adjust your kick to 6 watts and drop it in.


I use the base piece from my eGo-C stuffed with tissue to isolate tank leaks from my tube; I mean to plug it properly with silicone one of these days. Otherwise I also use eGo-to-510 adapters for that purpose. And I use protanks, so I do get leaks.

 

[glassgal]

So lately you've been vaping at 2.4 ohm with 3.8 volts; that works out to 6 watts.

I'm currently using 4 watts on one tank and 5 watts on another.

With a mech, you can just adjust your kick to 6 watts and drop it in.


I use the base piece from my eGo-C stuffed with tissue to isolate tank leaks from my tube; I mean to plug it properly with silicone one of these days. Otherwise I also use eGo-to-510 adapters for that purpose. And I use protanks, so I do get leaks.

Mech mods don't have a kick, a kick is a regulator so I've been told.

 

[edyle]

Mech mods don't have a kick, a kick is a regulator so I've been told.

No mech mods do not come with a kick, but you can get kick modules and drop them in.

To adjust the kick you have to take it out, and usually use a screw driver to turn the setting, then put it back in. But if you find you mostly vape at 6 watts, you just set it to 6 watts and vape away for the day.

Details:


Tips: The Kick is boosted power regulation in the form of a drop in module designed to be used in various tube devices with IMR batteries. It will regulate the wattage of mechanical mod / PV from 5.0 to 12.0 Watts depend on your requirement. Foremost, the Kick is designed to be used in 18650 sized metal tube with an IMR 18490 or 18500 battery. It can also be used in 18500 sized metal tube with an IMR 18350 battery.
•Variable wattage - can be adjustable from 5.0 Watts to 12.0 Watts
•Atty resistance - 1.5 ohms to 3.0 ohms
•Short circuit protection
•FYI: How to install
Note: IMR batteries are recommended for use in this device.

 

[BlaseWithVicarious]

: Price, well that is debatable. mech mods are simple by design, and should be more inexpensive, but to get a stylish or designer one, you'll pay as much, if not more, for the mech mod.

The mech is a simple design yes but quality goes a long way. I don't have taste for the Chinese mods or any mods of low quality. Which is why it's reasonable to pay over 200$ for really high end mechs


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[Ladiekali]

I bought a kick clone and it pulses when i vape is that normal?

 

[BlaseWithVicarious]

I bought a kick clone and it pulses when i vape is that normal?

That means your battery is low.


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[Ladiekali]

Hmmm ok, ill try it fully charged and see.

now the aw imr batteries you get from provape, can u use those same batteries in a mech mod?
I was thinking i could, bit the provapes dont have the amperage on them.

 

[roadie]

There are 10 kinds of people in the world - those that understand binary and those that dont.

T

Lol nice.

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[roadie]

Not mine, mine are personally modded with a good old mechanical car fuse and I only use top notch IMR batteries.
I have yet to see a report of an IMR battery venting, little lone exploding.
I personally shorted AW IMR batteries in a controlled experiment and they got hot, smoldered, and died a peaceful death in the sand.
On the other hand I have seen ICR batteries (the chemistry most regulated mod batteries use) vent like a flare spewing molten material several feet when overtaxed.

Interesting idea. Any pics of the fuse setup? Is it a blade fuse?

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