mech mod gets too hot when using 0.2ohm build
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Thank you, Giraut.. Pretty much what just about everybody has been saying.. The weak points are 510 connector and switch/spring. And $200 'OEM' 'Original' mods are NOT immune. The recent REO 'upgrades' (ahem - sub-ohm kit) being just one example...
Well, the thing is, a mech mod is pretty much just a 510 connector, a switch and a spring
So most of it is a weak point.These things aren't designed to handle high currents. It happens to work, but with little safety margin. That's why I compare sub-ohming to tricking out a moped: sure you can make a moped go fast, but neither the frame, brakes or shock absorbers are designed for that. And plenty of teens have accidents with modified mopeds.
Ideally, mods should be designed from the ground up to handle low resistance loads. And quite frankly, at those current levels, mechs aren't adequate or safe at all. Remember, car and houses have fuses that trip at lower amps than what you guys impose on your teensy weensy mods. You sub-ohmers are free to live on the ragged edge, but I know better.
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Well, the thing is, a mech mod is pretty much just a 510 connector, a switch and a spring
These things aren't designed to handle high currents. It happens to work, but with little safety margin. That's why I compare sub-ohming to tricking out a moped: sure you can make a moped go fast, but neither the frame, brakes or shock absorbers are designed for that. And plenty of teens have accidents with modified mopeds.
Ideally, mods should be designed from the ground up to handle low resistance loads. And quite frankly, at those current levels, mechs aren't adequate or safe at all. Remember, car and houses have fuses that trip at lower amps than what you guys impose on your teensy weensy mods. You sub-ohmers are free to live on the ragged edge, but I know better.
Correct me if i'm wrong, but a 510 connection isn't likely to be an issue barring a foreign object in there or some type of obvious physical damage... And an issue with the spring/button, you'll receive pretty immediate feedback such as what the OP is experiencing... Its not like things just go BOOM without some very obvious warning signs that theres an issue... Obviously failing to pay attention and failing to take heed to warning signs is a serious cause for concern... but comparing that to a tricked out over modified moped is a bit of a stretch
The 510 connection likely won't be an issue. But the atty might, or the coil.
As for safety, yes there are warning signs - provided you pay attention to them, or even know what to pay attention to. You may know what you're doing, but mechs are sold to Joe Sixpack muppets also. If you don't know it's not normal when a button gets hot, you might continue vaping thinking it's okay, until the contact fuses closed. Heck, even the OP felt he need to ask whether it's normal, despite the fact that it's blindingly obvious that it isn't.
Batteries won't necessarily explode in your hand, or vent nasty chemicals, or set things on fire if something goes awry. But there's more than enough risk to warrant safety electronics imho.
As for safety, yes there are warning signs - provided you pay attention to them, or even know what to pay attention to. You may know what you're doing, but mechs are sold to Joe Sixpack muppets also. If you don't know it's not normal when a button gets hot, you might continue vaping thinking it's okay, until the contact fuses closed. Heck, even the OP felt he need to ask whether it's normal, despite the fact that it's blindingly obvious that it isn't.
Batteries won't necessarily explode in your hand, or vent nasty chemicals, or set things on fire if something goes awry. But there's more than enough risk to warrant safety electronics imho.
Thanks,
How do I check the resistance of the mod itself with a multimeter? I guess the one lead goes to the center pin, but where should I place the other one to check everything including the spring and button?
Thanks!
How do I check the resistance of the mod itself with a multimeter? I guess the one lead goes to the center pin, but where should I place the other one to check everything including the spring and button?
Thanks!
Provided your multimeter is accurate enough at such a low resistance (most aren't), I suppose the easiest would be to replace the battery with a similarly-sized lump of metal (a large screw or something) to close the circuit, temporarily tape the go-go button closed, and measure the resistance at the 510 connector. But that won't tell you which part of the internals have the highest resistance, which is what matters. You can have a high-ish resistance, but if it's spread evenly across all the components, the mod will stay cold. Or you could have a very low resistance everywhere but at the spring, or at the button, and the spring or the button will heat up. Also, it won't prevent arcing in the button.
Or you could install a more reasonable coil
Provided your multimeter is accurate enough at such a low resistance (most aren't), I suppose the easiest would be to replace the battery with a similarly-sized lump of metal (a large screw or something) to close the circuit, temporarily tape the go-go button closed, and measure the resistance at the 510 connector. But that won't tell you which part of the internals have the highest resistance, which is what matters. You can have a high-ish resistance, but if it's spread evenly across all the components, the mod will stay cold. Or you could have a very low resistance everywhere but at the spring, or at the button, and the spring or the button will heat up. Also, it won't prevent arcing in the button.
Or you could install a more reasonable coil
The problem is the turtle ship clone now heating up even with a 0.5ohm build, it wasn't like that before (about 3-4 months old mod).
0.34v drop with 1ohm atty.
the hcigar nemesis clone works great with the 0.2 build, also 0.34-0.37v drop with 1ohm.
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Sounds like something's toast inside - the button's contacts that are corroded or that have eroded away, or solder that's let itself go or something. Maybe it's time to invest in another mod, plain and simple. Then again, if you're handy with tools, you might be able to take a peek inside, and fix/upgrade it on the cheap. Since it's failing, even if you break it trying to fix it, it won't be a great loss
Sounds like something's toast inside - the button's contacts that are corroded or that have eroded away, or solder that's let itself go or something. Maybe it's time to invest in another mod, plain and simple. Then again, if you're handy with tools, you might be able to take a peek inside, and fix/upgrade it on the cheap. Since it's failing, even if you break it trying to fix it, it won't be a great loss
You do realize Op is talking about Mechanical Mods? No wires and no solder.
General:
Likely failures are gradual contact decline from not cleaning regularly or Heat damage from repeating the same mistake over an over expecting different results. Well, the different result is faster overheating and more permanent damage.
Yes, it is a mistake to assume any given mod is designed to handle an (x)ohm load unless it came with a manufacturers statement and to date I have not seen a Mod that came with one.
Op, you need to disassemble and inspect the switch parts.
Look for any Tarnish, pitting, discoloration.
Look for Spring weakening, excessive clearances, misalignment of parts.
+1 for giraut bringing this discussion into the light of electrical engineering
So that's why the top of my mod is getting hot. So who is going to talk about Noalox then?
Noalox is for aluminum connections. No-oxide is an anti-oxidizing compound similar to noalox-without the zinc noalox has.
No-oxide is only needed when you have two components of different alloys, to prevent galvanic corrosion. I don't use it at all..I get dirty..I found I had to clean just as often, but it was gross/harder to clean when I used a dielectric grease.
No-oxide is only needed when you have two components of different alloys, to prevent galvanic corrosion. I don't use it at all..I get dirty..I found I had to clean just as often, but it was gross/harder to clean when I used a dielectric grease.
At 3.7v that mech is switching a 68 watt load at .2 ohms. It's no wonder the switch is heating up. The more you use it that way the more resistance (from overloading the switch) increases. If you could pull out the switch and disassemble it, you'd probably see pitted and carbonized contacts in the switch. That in itself leads to much higher resistance across the switch, coupled with a voltage drop across those failing contacts. Where there's resistance and a voltage drop across a component, there's heat.
You can plug in the voltage and the coil resistance here to see the 18.5 amp/68.45 watt load you are creating at 3.7v.
Ohm's Law Calculator
I'd say it's normal operation for an overloaded circuit with failing components.
You can plug in the voltage and the coil resistance here to see the 18.5 amp/68.45 watt load you are creating at 3.7v.
Ohm's Law Calculator
I'd say it's normal operation for an overloaded circuit with failing components.
I've always used Noalox, but couldn't find it last time I needed a tube. I bought Ox-Gard and found it to be easy to use and it cleans off easily with turning your hands permanently gray. If you compare the ingredients, it's a more complex mix with slight abrasive tendencies to clean contacts. Less is more with Ox-Gard or Noalox.
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