Mechanical mods (Yes, again)

[LKnives]

Okay, so I've been seriously considering RBAs and am pretty sure I've got the one I want nailed down. But the mechanical side I feel lost at.

I've taken in the feedback I was getting from the rba topic I have and watching Grimmgreen and Pbsurado's mechanical mod videos and I feel like I don't really know what I would want. I've been looking at it from the PoV of my wallet and my wallet is leaning towards the KTS+ since I can pick it up off fasttech for 19 bucks. But is that really the best choice?

I'm really on board until about 40 bucks here. I am pretty much planning on picking up a safety fuse because I feel more comfortable with being "better safe than sorry." And even with APVs I've purchased in the past, I don't really feel comfortable paying more than 60 bucks. (Last APV I snagged up was the Anyvape CVI for 51 bucks) And with a little simple math: 40 plus 15 (What I hear the safety fuse costs) puts me under my comfort zone by 5 bucks.

 

[evgeny131]

with mechs and rba's quality of build and materials used REALLY come into play.
there is nothing regulating your voltage, so if you buy cheap materials, cheaply built switches and springs, you will have a large voltage drop (4.2v fresh charge). I got into RBA clones first, using regulated devices, then made the switch to high-end mechs and sub-ohm coils. I don't use a kick (impractical because it only goes to 10watts) nor a safety fuse- adds to internal resistance and limits amp draw...I rely on the durability of my equipment and batteries that can easily handle at least a 7-10 amp draw @ 0.5-0.7ohms...
if you want you can start out with cheaper equipment but imho you will later regret spending that money as you will want a mech of a much better build quality...

 

[LKnives]

I understand that a good mechanical mod is going to cost quite a few dollars and I understand that it's going to be well worth the money. My big thing is I might not keep up with it at all and then I've got what? A hundred plus dollar mod with a 60 plus dollar RBA sitting on my bookshelf with the intent that "I am gonna have to give that another shot some day." It may happen and I know myself well enough that I know how I would handle it.

So I look at the cheaper price range things knowing that it's something that if it does end up on the shelf I'm only in so far for 60 to a 100 bucks total.

Really thinking about the Natural since it's one of two that I have actually heard anything about and the other looks like a problem child (Sigelei #19). Other than that I know nothing about the KTS+.

Edit: Like I said in another topic I have: Once I figure out this stuff I will definitely throw money at it if I like it.

 

[Crash Moses]

If you're just looking for a starter mech the Sigelei #8 is a very good low-budget mech. About $30 at Vapor Tek USA offers amazing deals on electronic cigarettes.

 

[evgeny131]

good luck! have fun with this stuff- gettin to the best part of vaping!

 

[LKnives]

I dropped off this post but I am back on it now, basically my plan before school is dead to me so I have formulated a new plan: Buy 2 high end mods and see where that leaves me. (The other is looking like maybe a Provari, I am scared of that needing an adapter to run my Kanger T3S on it though.)

But anyways, let's say I bump my price cap up to 200 dollars. What does that leave me? I know it's all subjective on what's the best yadda yadda but what's going to be a good investment? Interested in all input but... Just... I dunno, I am used to my buttons being on the side and near the top. Call me old fashion. Also, not a fan of box mods being... So boxy, it's really weird imho.

 

[Royaldrunker]

I would maybe wait on spending $200 on a mech until you try them out and start building some rba's..

As for the k101 i purchased one and cleaned all the contacts and it hits nicer than any other i have.Apparently the lowest voltage drop out of all clone mechanicals at .4

I have 6 clones and my z max collects dust i did drop the ball and pre ordered a chi you, but that wont hit my hands till september

As for putting in a safety, i never have and had zero issues in 2.5 years of vaping all aw imr batteries

 

[LKnives]

Well, I didn't mean EXACTLY 200 dollars but if there was something better for my dollar than what I had been looking at I wouldn't mind spend more than my previously mentioned 50ish dollar limit. I've still been just kind of eyeing the Natural as probably a decent buy.

 

[Jeff.Goering]

Spend the extra money on quality stuff and you will be in a whole new level of vaping. Over time you will collect a lot of hardware adn start trading some off for different mods/attys.

 

[pokerplayer]

I heard someone say once that the more you spend on quality hardware, the more likely you are to keep vaping and not revert to back to analogs. Works for me.

 

[TheSystemHasFailed]

The Legacy by Puresmoker.
Made in the U.S.A. and CS/QC is 100%
It's under $100, but with mechanicals, if you don't know how/don't want to mod, get one that is better made. And as for a safety fuse, make your coils of a higher resistance, as I noticed with my short stop on a 1.0 ohm coil it would heat up fast and arrest the circuit. Buy good batteries as well. You pretty much have to CREATE a safety issue when working with good gear.
If you are still interested, I will tell you which batts.

 

[LKnives]

Well, I have 4 Panasonic CGR18650s, I've been told those are pretty good and also heard Panasonic stopped making them.

I want to not say I "don't know how to mod" because this is the glorious internet era and there are videos for everything on Youtube, learning wouldn't be that hard, and I am not unwilling to mod it's just... I don't want to screw something up and then having to rebuy a mod. I have the capacity the screw it up and that worries me, I'd really rather find something that I won't have to do any after market modifications to.

 

[pokerplayer]

Cant tell you anything about your Panny's but all I use in my mech mods are AW IMR's.

 

[Soundhunter]

The Legacy by Puresmoker.
Made in the U.S.A. and CS/QC is 100%
It's under $100, but with mechanicals, if you don't know how/don't want to mod, get one that is better made. And as for a safety fuse, make your coils of a higher resistance, as I noticed with my short stop on a 1.0 ohm coil it would heat up fast and arrest the circuit. Buy good batteries as well. You pretty much have to CREATE a safety issue when working with good gear.
If you are still interested, I will tell you which batts.

^^^^^ This^^^^ ..want a quality mech device from a quality company with great after sale service..for under a yard? Legacy.. end of story
You'll need to spend significantly more to get a significantly better mod .. I did spend significantly more and am not sure at all that I got significantly better mod.. just my 2c

 

[evgeny131]

i have a legacy....to be totally honest for some reason i feel like i get a large voltage drop...not entirely satisfied, also had to sand down the switch threading, now after quite a bit of ultra fine sand paper work its silky smooth....for a tad more there are much better mods... my legacy sits unused in my drawer

 

[Soundhunter]

i have a legacy....to be totally honest for some reason i feel like i get a large voltage drop...not entirely satisfied, also had to sand down the switch threading, now after quite a bit of ultra fine sand paper work its silky smooth....for a tad more there are much better mods... my legacy sits unused in my drawer

Not doubting your experience .. but this is the first time I have read...and it seems like I have read hundreds upon hundreds of comments about the Legacy.. that I have heard anyone complain about switch..matter of fact..many think the the switch is the best part of the mod.. Hey.. not everybody likes every mod..so no argument from me with your comments.. I just know that I have a Legacy, Poldiac and an EA.. and the Legacy..while not nearly as "sexy" as the other two is right there along side them performance wise - over here anyway

 

[CloudZ]

The Fasttech KTS and IGO-L would be a great starter setup. Simple, cheap, and easy. I own a KTS and it has been great for me. It's a small investment for learning then you can buy better equipment later if you want.

I would skip the fuse and just run straight IMR's (I have the same ones you do). Just use a multimeter and keep your resistance above 1 ohm while you learn. You may eventually get comfortable wrapping perfect coils every time and start pushing the limits, not wanting safety nets anyway.

 

[LKnives]

Got a picture of the Legacy with an RBA on it?

The Fasttech KTS and IGO-L would be a great starter setup. Simple, cheap, and easy. I own a KTS and it has been great for me. It's a small investment for learning then you can buy better equipment later if you want.

You're the first person I've talked to who said they have the KTS, how is it? Any fiddling?

 

[Edd Harbin]

Legacy for sure .

 

[CloudZ]

You're the first person I've talked to who said they have the KTS, how is it? Any fiddling?

It's good and works fine. There are a few little things that make it feel a little cheap though, which should be expected because it IS really cheap.

The button is a little sloppy, and I do get an occasional misfire but that is usually when I am holding it awkwardly on accident... Still getting used to the bottom button.

The middle section of silver metal is pretty thin. I could probably crush it into an oval with my hands, but I don't intend to try. The upside to this is that the mod is very lightweight and skinny considering it holds a 18650.

I thought it hit well right out of the box on sub-ohm coils, but I took it apart and sanded the contacts anyway. No real definitive improvement, so I think the conductivity is decent.

Not the greatest picture of it, but I have the fasttech "chyclone" on it (yk1). I would have bought the igo-l instead, but they didn't have them available at the time. Still works well, its just tiny.