Can someone give me some info on these. What are they and why are they popular? What are the differences between those and others? Have never seen one other than in Pix. No vapor stores or vapers in this area or if they are they are hiding somewhere.
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Here are a couple of links that may help you find the info you are looking for. The articles appear somewhat outdate concerning the examples of mods they use as examples, but you will get the drift.
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My own definition of a pure mechanical mod would be a typical metal tube to hold the battery, and the "head which will contain a power switch and connection for the attachment that has the vaporizer, or heating element. These have no electrical displays and bare minimum safety provisions other than vent holes or switches designed to allow escaping gases from a venting battery to escape and preventing a potential pipe bomb-type explosion.They also generally use a collapsable spring in the battery cap for safety. Generally these are built to be quite durable, using aluminum, steel, or bronze.
These are popular because they offer an advanced alternative to the fragile and ultimately disposable cig-lookalikes and ego batteries (rated lifetime of 250 recharges). Because they use much larger rechargeable batteries, they allow longer vape times between battery changes, up to 1 - 2 days.
Also because they are larger, they offer the opportunity to attach tanks offering much larger juice capacity, up to 8 ml of juice. Built of heavy grade aluminum, steel, or bronze, they can be dropped on concrete w/o much if any damage. The rechargable batteries that these use are inexpensive (less than $10) and typically will have a lifetime of one year.
Many of these can be adapted with an extension tube to allow a Kick from Evolv, or the newer Kicklet, a device attached to the mod connector, with a chip which allows variable voltage to be acheived.
WWV Part V (page 4) | Vaping Guides to the Electronic Cigarette
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My own definition of a pure mechanical mod would be a typical metal tube to hold the battery, and the "head which will contain a power switch and connection for the attachment that has the vaporizer, or heating element. These have no electrical displays and bare minimum safety provisions other than vent holes or switches designed to allow escaping gases from a venting battery to escape and preventing a potential pipe bomb-type explosion.They also generally use a collapsable spring in the battery cap for safety. Generally these are built to be quite durable, using aluminum, steel, or bronze.
These are popular because they offer an advanced alternative to the fragile and ultimately disposable cig-lookalikes and ego batteries (rated lifetime of 250 recharges). Because they use much larger rechargeable batteries, they allow longer vape times between battery changes, up to 1 - 2 days.
Also because they are larger, they offer the opportunity to attach tanks offering much larger juice capacity, up to 8 ml of juice. Built of heavy grade aluminum, steel, or bronze, they can be dropped on concrete w/o much if any damage. The rechargable batteries that these use are inexpensive (less than $10) and typically will have a lifetime of one year.
Many of these can be adapted with an extension tube to allow a Kick from Evolv, or the newer Kicklet, a device attached to the mod connector, with a chip which allows variable voltage to be acheived.
I have a Smoktech mechanical (fully) mod that is called the telescope.
There are NO wires, no circuit boards...no electrical anything other
than the power supplied by the battery that you insert into it. It is
activated by pushing a button which will complete the connection to
the battery (the other part is at the top of the mod). With this type
mod, you can use an array of batteries ....right now I"m using a 18350
but usually use a 18650. There are several other sizes that will fit
because the tube of the mod "telescopes" into itself to accommodate
several sizes and types (flat top, button top, li-ion, li-po, li-mn)
They are all metal...and can be a bit heavy....but they don't have
easily breakable parts. The ST Telescope has a wheel that can be
screwed down to prevent accidental firing. The big advantage is that there are no wires or circuitry to go haywire. No LEDs, no little lights...it's just a basic, functional, solid mod. Electronic Cigarette - Starter Kits - Telescope They are also at Hoosier's e-cig Supply and Madvapes.
There are NO wires, no circuit boards...no electrical anything other
than the power supplied by the battery that you insert into it. It is
activated by pushing a button which will complete the connection to
the battery (the other part is at the top of the mod). With this type
mod, you can use an array of batteries ....right now I"m using a 18350
but usually use a 18650. There are several other sizes that will fit
because the tube of the mod "telescopes" into itself to accommodate
several sizes and types (flat top, button top, li-ion, li-po, li-mn)
They are all metal...and can be a bit heavy....but they don't have
easily breakable parts. The ST Telescope has a wheel that can be
screwed down to prevent accidental firing. The big advantage is that there are no wires or circuitry to go haywire. No LEDs, no little lights...it's just a basic, functional, solid mod. Electronic Cigarette - Starter Kits - Telescope They are also at Hoosier's e-cig Supply and Madvapes.
Thanks fourthrok . Can you use and type of juice delivery device or is that limited in any way?
I would say a pure mechanical mod would not include any electronic parts at all including the switch, the coil in the cart/atty and battery excepted of course.. A couple examples I have would be the Cube from Siam, Chameleon from Dancer in Scotland, and my Steampunk from Throathit in the UK. None of them have any wiring in them at all. The body of the mod makes the circuit and normally pressure applied to the battery moving it into contact with the carto connector causes the circuit to be complete.
And yes...you can use any style of carto/atty you want on them.
The Cube...
Chameleon...
Steampunk...
And yes...you can use any style of carto/atty you want on them.
The Cube...
Chameleon...
Steampunk...
klynn....you can use whatever delivery method you want. The telescope is made to fit any 510 or eGo cartomizer, atty, tank, clearomizer...etc. It also works with adapters, if you want to use KR808 attys or cartos on it (or whatever system...with the right adapter).
Mechanical mods are simple electrical devices. A OFF/ON switch is supplied but no other circuitry. The power to the atomizing device will drop off continuously as the battery drains down from full charge, so larger capacity batteries or pass-through power supplies are common with mechanical mods. A mechanical mod will not include the following functions: voltage regulation, reverse polarity protection, overload or short circuit protection, low battery indicator, variable voltage, or metering circuits/displays.
Mechanical mods can also be tube mods. That is, a mod that utilizes standard removable cylindrical batteries housed inside a battery tube.
Mechanical mods can also be tube mods. That is, a mod that utilizes standard removable cylindrical batteries housed inside a battery tube.
The REOmods.com Grand and Mini are bottom feeder mechanical mods. Both use the body (no wires) and a mechanical on/off switch and safety. The advantages are that you can get the entire mod wet, soak it in PGA, etc. to clean it (good with sticky stuff like ejuice) and they are incredibly reliable with so very little to go wrong with them.
How do y'all handle having no low battery cutoff with mechanical s? Just rely on judging diminishing vape to know when to recharge?
NO WIRES OR SOLDER!!!!!!
GG
Apex
Reo
There are many more, but I digress. I ONLY buy mechanical moda: ease of use and maintenance. I do not like the idea of many wires and parts that can be ruined by moisture. As a tattooist, I have to live with wires and capacitors that will constantly cause problems in the middle of a session, so I choose to keep my other hobbies as analog as possible (yes I see the irony).
basically you can narrow down most problems with mechanical mod with a good cleaning.
GG
Apex
Reo
There are many more, but I digress. I ONLY buy mechanical moda: ease of use and maintenance. I do not like the idea of many wires and parts that can be ruined by moisture. As a tattooist, I have to live with wires and capacitors that will constantly cause problems in the middle of a session, so I choose to keep my other hobbies as analog as possible (yes I see the irony).
basically you can narrow down most problems with mechanical mod with a good cleaning.
Pretty much. I usually just vape until the device no longer works. I do have a volt meter that I used when I started vaping that I could use, but I mainly used it to test drained batteries before putting them in the charger, or when they come off the charger, for safety reasons.
With my Provari, it makes everything simpler. It has a built in voltmeter that I can check to see if the battery in it will last me for where ever I might be going. It's power switch also begins blinking when the battery level is getting low. Because of the Provari's acuset chip, it provides the same vape from start to finish, so there is no diminishing vape experience from a nearly drained battery.
Yes the vape flavor/heat/vapor drops enough you get annoyed and change them. You get a feel for it by how much juice you've vaped with them and usually put fresh ones in if you are going out.
Understand. I also use the Provari, but do like the form factor of some of the mechanical tube mods. Kinda kicking around picking up an 18350 of some sort since I already have a bunch of batteries for the Provari Mini.
You can feel/taste the subtle difference--it is quite a nice talent that rolls over into being a foodie as well.
My primary apv's are Puresmoker Icon, and Super T P-10, and P-18. All mechanical, no wires, and no problems at all. A regular cleaning of the contacts is all that is required. As for changing batteries you become adept at judging batteries, For example I can use the P-18 with a 18650 -2600 mah battery and it lasts all day. Fully charged at 4.18 volts, I run it down to 3.7 volts by the end of the day. Excellent vape at both ends of the voltage for me, but others will change out before the bat hits close to 3.7. It depends on the individuals taste. Having a multimeter is important for keeping tabs on the batteries performance and for checking for "overcharge" safety issues( this has never happened to me, but again it's important to check).
Yep. I often take the battery out of my Reo Mini and rinse the whole thing under the faucet. Let it dry and it's good to go again. A great little mod.
Yeah, since I got my Provari it gets 95% of my vape time. My Silver Bullet is getting lonely lying in the dark reaches of my vape bag, waiting for the unlikely occurance that something will happen to the ProV. I still enjoy taking the BB out occassionally with its lanyard, the small form factor and its lightness are definite pluses. Makes me want a Provari mini.
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